Nikon D750 & D780

AF-S single point. TBH shooting at 1.8 so close was a bit hit and miss as he was bobbing about quite a bit. I have also changed it to release priority as it wasn't firing. I must remember to change it back. Also found that the outer focus points are pretty crap. :D

I will try AF-C and the group focusing soon i think. :)
 
@twist I found the exposure settings in the EXIF but could not find the focus settings.

Thanks for the focus information @minnnt. I have the same bobbing issues hence have been experimenting with different settings. I found AF-C 9 Point to be a bit more forgiving. There is also face detection via the OVF but it only works in certain modes. With the subject never still there is only so much you can do and the keeper rate isn't that high. Continuous shooting helps but I don't always want to be machine gunning.

Look forward to any tips.
 
I'm not a machine gunner either. I much prefer to get my hair off with loads of missed shots. :LOL:

Haven't tried face detection yet but will give the group and d9 a go. I remember being amazed by the 3D AF on the D7k, maybe that could be an option?! Will try it with the 35 as that will be even more forgiving and is faster to focus too.
 
redlion said:
@twist I found the exposure settings in the EXIF but could not find the focus settings.

Thanks for the focus information @minnnt. I have the same bobbing issues hence have been experimenting with different settings. I found AF-C 9 Point to be a bit more forgiving. There is also face detection via the OVF but it only works in certain modes. With the subject never still there is only so much you can do and the keeper rate isn't that high. Continuous shooting helps but I don't always want to be machine gunning.

Look forward to any tips.
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AFC and dynamic 9 point works best for me 90% of the time. Hit rate is very high with all points.
 
I have briefly played around with the 3D AF and found it to be decent for side to side movement but sometimes quicker to anticipate the shot and move the AF point manually.

AF-C and D9 is what I plan to stick with when just wanting to pick up the camera and get the shot without too much thinking.

The auto mode face detection is meant to be good but not sure how trusting it would be in an event situation.

I will also see how release and focus priority on the shutter button goes as I've never done that before nor back button focusing.

On a separate note. Any D750 video shooters?
 
minnnt said:
Have you not bought one yet? :D

Might get the lights out in a bit and see what it's like in studio conditions.
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Ordering this week!! Will just have the 50mm at first but hey... I cant wait!
 
Not kids, but..........I'm finding AFA 9 point good with small bird photography, when they are on perches and there heads never keep still, especially Blue Tits. This setting is overlooked sometimes and gives the best of both worlds of AFS & AFC.
 
twist said:
He got the shot didn't he or is it completely oof. And I hadn't known that at the time of my first post.
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Ive no idea if he got the shot, i dont have the original but if he did get it using AF-S it would have been pure luck if the kid didn't move after the AF locked on.
 
Gary Coyle said:
Ive no idea if he got the shot, i dont have the original but if he did get it using AF-S it would have been pure luck if the kid didn't move after the AF locked on.
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It's on the page before. Not pure luck, got him between bounces, he had it on focus release so in order to obtain focus the child would've had to have been still at that moment. I know afc is technically the best for movement and I use it all the time but in this case afs could've and did work.
 
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redlion said:
I have briefly played around with the 3D AF and found it to be decent for side to side movement but sometimes quicker to anticipate the shot and move the AF point manually.

AF-C and D9 is what I plan to stick with when just wanting to pick up the camera and get the shot without too much thinking.

The auto mode face detection is meant to be good but not sure how trusting it would be in an event situation.

I will also see how release and focus priority on the shutter button goes as I've never done that before nor back button focusing.

On a separate note. Any D750 video shooters?
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For shots such as runners and cyclists etc I've fallen out with 3D tbh as I like to keep the focus point on the face and with 3D the FP tends to move onto the torso.
 
twist said:
It's on the page before. Not pure luck, got him between bounces, he had it on focus release so in order to obtain focus the child would've had to have been still at that moment. I know afc is technically the best for movement and I use it all the time but in this case afs could've and did work.
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LOL, and this isnt luck, oh well.
 
Gary Coyle said:
LOL, and this isnt luck, oh well.
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I often use AF-S for my 'kids' (dog and cat) and get 99.9% hit rate and tack sharp so no it's not luck, it's called a very quick AF system. (Obviously not when they're running around like crazy, but they don't stay still when I"m trying to take their pics ;))
 
snerkler said:
I often use AF-S for my 'kids' (dog and cat) and get 99.9% hit rate and tack sharp so no it's not luck, it's called a very quick AF system. (Obviously not when they're running around like crazy, but they don't stay still when I"m trying to take their pics ;))
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Exactly.
 
Gary Coyle said:
I meant the visualisation of the kid bouncing up and down and the tog snatching a shot was so funny not your actual reply as such, by the way im never wrong, ask the wife.
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I did, she said in this case AFS was acceptable and worked. :D

p.s. She seemed a very pleasant lady.
 
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I haven't been on here for a while BUT I got this camera a week ago, and am having all the fun playing with it. It's my first full frame camera so I am generally star struck, but my observations so far include how amazing the image looks at a high ISO in comparison to what I've experienced with Nikon before.

Wanted to know what everyone else thought about it so i'm stalking this thread :) One of my first worries was securing the camera past just the strap alone, so advice from Traubrey....much appreciated!

I shoot in A a lot, mainly because of weddings and quickly changing light and subjects, but also because I can be lazy! I'm struggling with over exposure - the image will look good on camera, then awful in lightroom/PS. Now I know this camera has a clever metering system and I'm the one doing it wrong. I feel like I am missing knowledge about the metering setting (played with matrix and spot) and I assume highlight-weighted metering is mainly for sports photography. I've been told I need to use the AE lock for every image to overcome this, but I was hoping you guys could shed some more light.

Please be nice to me, I'm not very technically minded!
 
kirif1 said:
I haven't been on here for a while BUT I got this camera a week ago, and am having all the fun playing with it. It's my first full frame camera so I am generally star struck, but my observations so far include how amazing the image looks at a high ISO in comparison to what I've experienced with Nikon before.

Wanted to know what everyone else thought about it so i'm stalking this thread :) One of my first worries was securing the camera past just the strap alone, so advice from Traubrey....much appreciated!

I shoot in A a lot, mainly because of weddings and quickly changing light and subjects, but also because I can be lazy! I'm struggling with over exposure - the image will look good on camera, then awful in lightroom/PS. Now I know this camera has a clever metering system and I'm the one doing it wrong. I feel like I am missing knowledge about the metering setting (played with matrix and spot) and I assume highlight-weighted metering is mainly for sports photography. I've been told I need to use the AE lock for every image to overcome this, but I was hoping you guys could shed some more light.

Please be nice to me, I'm not very technically minded!
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If it's noticeably overexposing check you haven't accidentally increased exposure compensation. It's also a good idea to change the brightness of your LCD to match your calibrated monitor so it will look closer to your final image on the computer. However, don't rely on the image on the LCD for correct exposure, the histogram is the go to tool for this.

Highlight metering isn't for sports (although I'm sure there'll be the odd sporting environment that may lend itself to it) it's generally for dark scenes with areas of bright light such as an actor on stage illuminated by a spotlight.

You don't need to use AE lock to overcome over exposure. AE lock is used to make sure a series of shots all have the same exposure, or when re composing an image (there are other uses).
 
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Do you mean the EV? I need to add the histogram to my playback menu, I’ve not done this yet – thank you for reminding me! And I’ll have a look at the brightness of the LCD.
I think I need to go away and read a few articles about metering, I’ve relied on having my settings on my trusty old camera in a certain way that worked and I need to relearn some things! Any suggestions for articles and such for where to go away and learn things welcome!
 
kirif1 said:
Do you mean the EV? I need to add the histogram to my playback menu, I’ve not done this yet – thank you for reminding me! And I’ll have a look at the brightness of the LCD.
I think I need to go away and read a few articles about metering, I’ve relied on having my settings on my trusty old camera in a certain way that worked and I need to relearn some things! Any suggestions for articles and such for where to go away and learn things welcome!
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Yes EV, look at page 143 of the manual. Cambridge in Colour has some good articles on metering. Tbh though matrix should do the job 99% of the time.
 
I'm 100% positive the EV was on 0, i can post an example here later with the EXIF data . Maybe I just need to mess around more and get used to it, like the size of the files now! I need more memory cards and another external drive! I've also had to update my lightroom and PS via adobe cloud....and it's frustratingly slow.
 
Some of Bob Dylan's guitar from Newport this weekend.
Does anyone else never use metering? I never trust it but I think I should? I've had too many times where it's not doing a good job (not that I'm necessarily doing anything better). The highlight mode I find nearly always under-exposes.


View attachment 42781 View attachment 42782 View attachment 42783
 
The D750 gets used for the first time at a wedding on Saturday. To make sure that I was sure about myself and the camera working well together, I went out with a friend for the day to shoot a set of portraits in natural and artificial light scenarios. Sitting down to choose a set afterwards turned out to be really challenging because the camera performed so well. I used a combination of three lenses (the 16-35mm f/4 VR, a Sigma 50mm f/1.4 HSM and the Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS) as well as a Nikon SB700 strobe on occasion.

Here's one of my favourites from the day. :)

 
Cheese Scientist said:
Some of Bob Dylan's guitar from Newport this weekend.
Does anyone else never use metering? I never trust it but I think I should? I've had too many times where it's not doing a good job (not that I'm necessarily doing anything better). The highlight mode I find nearly always under-exposes.


View attachment 42781 View attachment 42782 View attachment 42783
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Nice pics. I would expect highlight metering to underexpose to an extent as it's preserving the highlights so shifts everything to the left.
How do you choose your exposure settings if you don't meter? I assume you use the sunny 16 rule or something and adapt from that?
 
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kirif1 said:
I'm 100% positive the EV was on 0, i can post an example here later with the EXIF data . Maybe I just need to mess around more and get used to it, like the size of the files now! I need more memory cards and another external drive! I've also had to update my lightroom and PS via adobe cloud....and it's frustratingly slow.
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EXIF and screenshot of the original histogram would be useful.
 
snerkler said:
Nice pics. I would expect highlight metering to underexpose to an extent as it's preserving the highlights so shifts everything to the left.
How do you choose your exposure settings if you don't meter? I assume you use the sunny 16 rule or something and adapt from that?
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Take pic, look at pic, adjust settings.
I always think that I should try bracketing but I can't bear the thought of having 3 times more pictures to go through after the event!
 
I actually LOL'd at 'highlight metering always under exposes' :D

That's the idea. Nikon want you to pull the shadows on the files from the D750 hence why there is a mode to expose for the highlights.

I have been using normal matrix metering and just adding some -/+ ec when i want a specific look. Seems to be working just fine for me.

Just got back from The Sea Life Centre and set the camera to auto iso 6400 for the first time. Will see what the pics look like when i get a minute. Just went with the 35mm in the end. It's quite a small pairing really.

And i have the 18-35mm coming soon too. :D
 
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