Nikon D750

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hey guys. Couple of quick questions hoping I can get some opinions on.

I currently have two D750's and shoot real estate, portrait and commercial work mostly.

I am thinking of changing one of them for the D850. Has anyone else made that change? How'd you find it?

Also what would you say is a reasonable price for a second hand D750?

The one I'm selling is about 18 months old and is currently with Nikon getting a new shutter due to the recall so it will be a zero shutter count and all clean.

thanks

Sammy
Pretty sure @snerkler changed from the d750 to d850

Also, i don't believe the shutter count is reset to 0, it'll probably still be the same as when you sent it.
I sure have made that change (y)

@sduk there's no doubt that the D850 is a better camera than the D750, but it's not a massive difference. When I changed from the APS-C Sony A77-II to the D750 I was blown away by the D750, not only in terms of functionality but also with the images I got from it. They had better colour, better pop, better depth and way less noise. I didn't get this same wow factor swapping from the D750 to the D850. That being said I don't regret the change, the reason for not getting the wow factor is that the D750 is so good it's difficult to be truly wowed after that IMO, at least currently.

The improvements of the D850 are small, but over all they do add up to a lot. I do actually prefer the colours and colour accuracy from the D850, the build is better, the detail/sharpness is crazy (combination of resolution and lack of AA filter), the extra resolution helps with cropping for wildlife, the illuminated buttons are useful, and the extra buffer size is really handy for me for sports. Oh and the viewfinder, it's noticeably bigger and nicer to use.

The negatives are the extra weight, file size (although I've not found this much of an issue), and noise handling isn't as good. That being said, I get useable images at ISO 12800 without needing much NR.

As for the shutter count, it shouldn't be reset (Nikon UK say that the shutter count is a reflection of the overall use not just shutter) but there have been a couple of cases where the shutter count has been reset, not sure why.
 
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Dan
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Anyone own the Nikon 20mm 1.8 on their D750?

I have the 18-35 but looking to replace it with a prime.
 
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Dan
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I had one, loved it when I did use it. Wasn't much of a landscape person so it got limited use. But was still lovely when used.
I’m a wedding photographer first and foremost and my current 18-35 takes around 2 photos each wedding, usually the venue and then a first dance shot but zooms limit my creativity so other than my 70-200 I’m replacing zooms for primes.

Hopefully the 20mm will force me out and about with my camera in the off season to get creative with some landscapes and it’ll come with me on a trip to Rome next year.
 
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Thanks Graham, but I've re-edited and toned them right down, see above. Not sure what my eyes were seeing earlier, were way over saturated. Anyway, still not quite happy but they'll do. Have other pics to sort now :)
Much better after the second edit. Possibly still take the tint more towards green if you are using LR but much bertter regardless
 
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Kris
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Much better after the second edit. Possibly still take the tint more towards green if you are using LR but much bertter regardless
Thanks Mike. I did the first one in PS, and clearly lost myself in a magenta haze. When I replicated that on the other two, I could see the difference. It's taken a bit of faff to get thereabouts, It'll do. If I decide to print in some format at some point, I'll revisit them.
 
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Here`s one from a few weeks ago, reworked in Aurora HDR.

GRE_2282
by Graham, on Flickr
 
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Graham
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Tim
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Thanks guys, saw the barn when I got to venue and had this shot planned so as soon as it was dark enough then we got it done. It was in the middle of nowhere so pitch black, even my iPhone 'torch' didn't provide enough light to avoid the obstacles around them. Was also a pain focusing but we got there in the end.
 
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Hi all,
well here`s 2 from me from today`s little trip out.
Silly me forgot the 3 stopp screw on filter was still on the lens until it was too late, 10 stop 150x100 filter system used so I guess these shots are 13 stops :facepalm:

GRE_2773
by Graham, on Flickr

GRE_2769
by Graham, on Flickr
 
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thomas
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I already said before i had problem with my flash a month ago, I thought the problem was because I was using auto iso. But no, I now think it's just buggered. I reset to factory setting the camera, put the camera stable on a table top and shoot a stone wall. Settings are at 1/200 f4 640iso waiting for each shot to have the flash charging properly which i find a bit slow you have to wait at least a second to be able to take a picture. On a series of 10 pictures of the wall the flash fired everytime and it seems to be at a similar intensity to my eye. Looking back at the picture they varie from horribly dark to totally burn out to something a bit ok.

I did reset the camera to factory settingmno exposure comp, no flash comp, no auto iso, flash sync 1/200, flash shutter speed 1/60, flash ctrl TTL, modeling flash on....

Really annoyed with this!
 
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Andy
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Try another test, put everything on manual and we can build from there. Put the camera in manual, 1/125 f5.6 iso 200 with auto ISO off. Put the flash into manual and set it to something like 1/8th power. Try your run of shots again and review them, they should all be the same. If they aren’t then there’s a problem.

If they are the same, start introducing auto features, the first I would try is TTL on the flash and try again, put keeping the manual settings in the camera. If these are fine put the flash back into manual and your camera into an auto exposure mode (assuming that’s what you were using) and try again.

By rolling it back to basics and using auto features only in one place at once you should be able to determine which part exactly is playing up :)

If you still need help get some of the shots uploaded with the EXIF in tact and post them in here and we can see if we can help any further (y)
 
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Barry
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Try another test, put everything on manual and we can build from there. Put the camera in manual, 1/125 f5.6 iso 200 with auto ISO off. Put the flash into manual and set it to something like 1/8th power. Try your run of shots again and review them, they should all be the same. If they aren’t then there’s a problem.

If they are the same, start introducing auto features, the first I would try is TTL on the flash and try again, put keeping the manual settings in the camera. If these are fine put the flash back into manual and your camera into an auto exposure mode (assuming that’s what you were using) and try again.

By rolling it back to basics and using auto features only in one place at once you should be able to determine which part exactly is playing up :)

If you still need help get some of the shots uploaded with the EXIF in tact and post them in here and we can see if we can help any further (y)
@andy1868 I've had a bit of problem trying to understand with a view to helping. It's a puzzle for sure. But, he is using the on-board flash; he doesn't have stand-alone unit. (I came to a similar conclusion as yourself) You can't alter the output power with the pop-up unit. (I stand to be corrected though)
 
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@andy1868 I've had a bit of problem trying to understand with a view to helping. It's a puzzle for sure. But, he is using the on-board flash; he doesn't have stand-alone unit. (I came to a similar conclusion as yourself) You can't alter the output power with the pop-up unit. (I stand to be corrected though)
You can change the power output of the inbuilt flash when using manual mode. Inbuilt flash has 4 modes, TTL, Manual, Repeating and Commander (y)
 
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Andy
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Ahhh my apologies, yes I did read into it that an external flash was being used but as @snerkler said above you can change the output of the on board unit.

Testing it all in manual first to make sure it CAN work is important though, to make sure you’re not just fighting some quirk of an automatic setting :)
 
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Jason
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One of those nice gold boxes turned up this morning with a D750 in it (Where it is staying untill I am 100% sure I am going to receive the discounts/cashbacks I have stacked up against it.)

It came with a copy of NX-2, which after a quick scan of reviews seems like a semi decent package, certainly better than the ancient copy of Photoshop I am using. Is anyone else using this? Or is it time to bite the bullet with an Adobe subscription?

I do a lot of mono work and try to get it right in the camera, but a recently I have felt that my lack of skill in processing needs to be addressed - I recently watched people making ARPS submissions be ripped a new one for small technical errors that could have been fixed.

I am working towards this currently and don't want to suffer the same fate.

Opinions please?
 
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One of those nice gold boxes turned up this morning with a D750 in it (Where it is staying untill I am 100% sure I am going to receive the discounts/cashbacks I have stacked up against it.)

It came with a copy of NX-2, which after a quick scan of reviews seems like a semi decent package, certainly better than the ancient copy of Photoshop I am using. Is anyone else using this? Or is it time to bite the bullet with an Adobe subscription?

I do a lot of mono work and try to get it right in the camera, but a recently I have felt that my lack of skill in processing needs to be addressed - I recently watched people making ARPS submissions be ripped a new one for small technical errors that could have been fixed.

I am working towards this currently and don't want to suffer the same fate.

Opinions please?
NX-2 can yield good results but it's a very clunky bit of software imo.
 
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Hi everyone, new(ish) d750 owner here and just wondering if you can help me out please. Apologies if this has already been discussed, but here goes: I love this camera, but in bright light conditions it seems to quite dramatically underexpose shaded areas/overexpose brighter areas and I can't for the life of me understand what's causing it. I'm shooting on aperture priority and have tried the usual things like exposure compensation but this doesn't help. It only seems to be an issue in bright light as other images I've taken with this camera have turned out great. After a quick Google and read of some other forums, I see that some people have said that it's a fault and have had to have their cameras replaced. Has anybody else experienced this? Experiencing a bit of slow internet at the moment which is preventing me from uploading examples, but in the meantime, can anyone help please?
 
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Hi everyone, new(ish) d750 owner here and just wondering if you can help me out please. Apologies if this has already been discussed, but here goes: I love this camera, but in bright light conditions it seems to quite dramatically underexpose shaded areas/overexpose brighter areas and I can't for the life of me understand what's causing it. I'm shooting on aperture priority and have tried the usual things like exposure compensation but this doesn't help. It only seems to be an issue in bright light as other images I've taken with this camera have turned out great. After a quick Google and read of some other forums, I see that some people have said that it's a fault and have had to have their cameras replaced. Has anybody else experienced this? Experiencing a bit of slow internet at the moment which is preventing me from uploading examples, but in the meantime, can anyone help please?
My initial thought is that it's just a high dynamic range scene, but without seeing examples it's difficult to help any further. I've certainly not heard of any exposure issues like this with the D750 tbh.
 
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Kris
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Hi everyone, new(ish) d750 owner here and just wondering if you can help me out please. Apologies if this has already been discussed, but here goes: I love this camera, but in bright light conditions it seems to quite dramatically underexpose shaded areas/overexpose brighter areas and I can't for the life of me understand what's causing it. I'm shooting on aperture priority and have tried the usual things like exposure compensation but this doesn't help. It only seems to be an issue in bright light as other images I've taken with this camera have turned out great. After a quick Google and read of some other forums, I see that some people have said that it's a fault and have had to have their cameras replaced. Has anybody else experienced this? Experiencing a bit of slow internet at the moment which is preventing me from uploading examples, but in the meantime, can anyone help please?
Definitely examples needed. As standard the 750 does meter normal scenes slightly over. I always had -0.7 exp comp for normal situations.
 
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My initial thought is that it's just a high dynamic range scene, but without seeing examples it's difficult to help any further. I've certainly not heard of any exposure issues like this with the D750 tbh.
Definitely examples needed. As standard the 750 does meter normal scenes slightly over. I always had -0.7 exp comp for normal situations.
Thanks - managed to upload one example here. Admittedly my previous camera was not this advanced so it's quite possible that there's a very simple reason for this, but as I said, it's perfectly fine in most other conditions.
 

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Thanks - managed to upload one example here. Admittedly my previous camera was not this advanced so it's quite possible that there's a very simple reason for this, but as I said, it's perfectly fine in most other conditions.
What metering mode are you using, matrix?

It looks a relative normal scene with some highlight which is retained nicely. If anything, that’s probably the ideal exposure with no highlights clipping for that shot. There will be plenty of detail in the shadows that can be recovered, which is the strength of the camera.
 
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What metering mode are you using, matrix?

It looks a relative normal scene with some highlight which is retained nicely. If anything, that’s probably the ideal exposure with no highlights clipping for that shot. There will be plenty of detail in the shadows that can be recovered, which is the strength of the camera.
Yep, this was matrix. It's not a *huge* issue as like you said it can be recovered, it's just not something I experienced with my previous camera. As this one is relatively new I just wanted to be sure that it isn't something I should be contacting Nikon about, and after my quick search earlier was concerned that the camera might be faulty (although perhaps it's just the photographer :whistle: )
 
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Yep, this was matrix. It's not a *huge* issue as like you said it can be recovered, it's just not something I experienced with my previous camera. As this one is relatively new I just wanted to be sure that it isn't something I should be contacting Nikon about, and after my quick search earlier was concerned that the camera might be faulty (although perhaps it's just the photographer :whistle: )
Metering systems are excellent these days but still need tweaking. Might just be a case of learning how the 750’s meter reacts to differing situations.

Try taking a shot in artificial light at -0.7 without having a very bright light source glaring into the lens. You should get a good exposure with a good balance of highlight to shadow.
 
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