OK then, let's see YOUR infrared images please.

first photo on a D7100, other 3 progressions of the same image from a converted D90 at 720nm. Maybe it's just a workflow rather than anything else! I've never really got great results with false colour, particularly channel swapping. And what do you guys use for fixing white balance? Most of my stuff ends up as a black and white conversion, though occasionally I'll try something more creative!

Image Progression by Scott Rae, on Flickr
 
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So good I posted it twice! Woopsy!

May as well make use of this double post! I hadn't noticed this thread and there are some real crackers on here - wow! Inspiring stuff! As I said above, I've never really got on that well with false colour, mainly I think because I've struggled getting a white balance to work in ACR (it seems to ignore the camera settings), and because channel swapping just doesn't seem to give me the results I want. Occasionally I'll dabble in false colour (the last of the 4 images) but... hmm! Nothing as good as many of the pics I've seen on this thread! I'll have a proper look through the back posts, but any guides??
 
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The first of potentially many from Paris. assuming i get the time to process.


21041122023_6a4b33dd19_z.jpg

Eiffel Tower Through the Trees - IR

by David Baterip, on Flickr
 
<snip>
So good I posted it twice! Woopsy!

May as well make use of this double post! I hadn't noticed this thread and there are some real crackers on here - wow! Inspiring stuff! As I said above, I've never really got on that well with false colour, mainly I think because I've struggled getting a white balance to work in ACR (it seems to ignore the camera settings), and because channel swapping just doesn't seem to give me the results I want. Occasionally I'll dabble in false colour (the last of the 4 images) but... hmm! Nothing as good as many of the pics I've seen on this thread! I'll have a proper look through the back posts, but any guides??

I was going to ask the same question, I have set my white balance as low as it will go (2000) but still unable to achieve the false colours that are in this thread.

If you set your white balance by pointing at the grass, what colour should the grass be in a shot sooc as a jpeg?

Regards
 
I was going to ask the same question, I have set my white balance as low as it will go (2000) but still unable to achieve the false colours that are in this thread.

If you set your white balance by pointing at the grass, what colour should the grass be in a shot sooc as a jpeg?

Regards

I tend to take both my 720 and 590 white balance from well lit grass if available

the 720 is pretty straight forward to process but the 590 is well out of White balance range in lightroom alone. I have a series of custom profiles saved in Lightroom for setting the white balance prior to Photoshop channel mixing. These can be made with adobes DNG editor (not the guide i used but it is detailed here : http://photography.tutsplus.com/tut...o-infrared-photography-processing--photo-9540)

I have also used nikons NX2 suite to set a proper while balance as part of my processing work flow and that seems to work well even if it clogs up the process.

Getting the white balance correct (i say correct but this stuff is so subjective....) before channel swapping really makes a difference.

i hope this helps, im at work so can't really reply in more depth right now, i will check back later.
 
I use a 720 screw on filter, and have used adobes DNG editor, but still struggle to get it right.
 
I've got a few links saved for tutorials on IR - I'll post them up later :)
 
Not so sure about the second one, but the first one with the baloon really works very well.

Can you explain what you mean by "not so sure" please. I'm here to learn and I have a thick skin so I'd like to know what you think I could have done better. Any advice gratefully accepted.
 
Can you explain what you mean by "not so sure" please. I'm here to learn and I have a thick skin so I'd like to know what you think I could have done better. Any advice gratefully accepted.

The second one looks more like a model or computer graphic than real life, but that's only an opinion. The first one avoids that by having sky in it as this gives the eye/brain(?) a point of reference with a horizon. The tractor wheel lines in the fields even help to draw the eye into the photo, but all of that is subjective and technically they have marvelous detail in them.
 
The second one looks more like a model or computer graphic than real life, but that's only an opinion. The first one avoids that by having sky in it as this gives the eye/brain(?) a point of reference with a horizon. The tractor wheel lines in the fields even help to draw the eye into the photo, but all of that is subjective and technically they have marvelous detail in them.

Thank you. I agree about the computer graphic as it happens. They are both real though, both taken on the same flight. The second one is Buckden towers a really interesting local place that I never knew about until After I took this photo!.
:)
 
I tend to take both my 720 and 590 white balance from well lit grass if available

the 720 is pretty straight forward to process but the 590 is well out of White balance range in lightroom alone. I have a series of custom profiles saved in Lightroom for setting the white balance prior to Photoshop channel mixing. These can be made with adobes DNG editor (not the guide i used but it is detailed here : http://photography.tutsplus.com/tut...o-infrared-photography-processing--photo-9540)

I have also used nikons NX2 suite to set a proper while balance as part of my processing work flow and that seems to work well even if it clogs up the process.

Getting the white balance correct (i say correct but this stuff is so subjective....) before channel swapping really makes a difference.

i hope this helps, im at work so can't really reply in more depth right now, i will check back later.

Awesome - will have a play around with this today I think. I'd tried using NX2 as well, but it was just a bit of a faff in workflow terms, and as I tended to process for B&W infrared, it just didn't make sense to worry about the white balance or bother with channel swapping (which really is a pain in NX2!)

Now another question is, is there any benefit in these extra processing actions when processing for B&W?

and in the interests of the point of the forum, here's another one I prepared earlier! :D

Dawlish Airshow 2014 - Royal Navy Rescue by Scott Rae, on Flickr
 
Any chance that some kind person could put a start and finish image up, just so that I and others can "play" with a good shot?
 
A pretty basic question, when setting the white balance by taking a shot of grass, what colour should it be set for - white or green etc?
 
A pretty basic question, when setting the white balance by taking a shot of grass, what colour should it be set for - white or green etc?
with my camera (a NIkon Point and shoot) I just go to "set custom white balance" and take a reference photo, filling the frame with brightly lit grass. Job done!
 
with my camera (a NIkon Point and shoot) I just go to "set custom white balance" and take a reference photo, filling the frame with brightly lit grass. Job done!
:plus1: Although my IR camera is a Panasonic but the same process
 
Slightly off topic here but i hope it still falls within the remit of the thread :)

I'm thinking of printing a few of my IR photos to mount at home. we recently moved and ive got lots of wall space. I am thinking that printing directly onto aluminium might be an interesting proposition. I am hoping that the material will bring out the crisp whites and deep water colours that IR tends to produce.

My question is does anyone experience printing IR onto this material and if so any experiences on finish that you could share. Many thanks
 
I've printed a couple of test prints on metallic paper, of which one was the Sea King photo above, and the finish is stunning - at almost adds a third dimension to the photo - real depth in it. Having seen aluminium prints, I could see it having a similar effect but better defined.

Oh, and a photo....
Hembury Fort IR by Scott Rae, on Flickr
 
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Thread revival time :)

After selling my Panasonic G1 infrared, I really miss it so just picked up an Olympus E-PL1 quite cheap on eBay and got a filter on order to convert when it all arrives.
Decided to give the E-PL1 a try after seeing @jamiewednesday's pics with one. Conversion looks easy enough:)
 
If I can remember how to post an image here's an old one from me

Oh well that did not work !
 
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Sycamore Gap - been once and it was pouring with rain - proper pouring, none of this normal rain stuff - real BIG rain.
Somewhere I need to revisit sometime.
 
Converted another Panny G1 to 685nm IR last night - got loads of dust bunnies in the sensor so had to strip it all down again tonight to clean them all out, then the AF started playing up so stripped it down again. All seems good now - just need some proper sunlight to go and play with:)
 
Thread revival time :)

After selling my Panasonic G1 infrared, I really miss it so just picked up an Olympus E-PL1 quite cheap on eBay and got a filter on order to convert when it all arrives.
Decided to give the E-PL1 a try after seeing @jamiewednesday's pics with one. Conversion looks easy enough:)

Julian, did you ever get around to converting the E-PL1? Would be interested to hear how you got on if you did.
 
Julian, did you ever get around to converting the E-PL1? Would be interested to hear how you got on if you did.
Now there's a story:)

I got the E-PL1, had a poke around and a play, decided it wasn't for me as it didn't feel right to hold, asked my smallest lad if he would like to swap it for my old 'spare' Panny G1 that I let him have, he decided that was a good idea as the E-PL1 does video and now I have a 640nm G1 again:)
I prefer the feel of the G1 as its more like a small DSLR with a proper grip. Also, the kit lens of the E-PL1 takes silly small filters so it would be awkward to fit a higher wavelength filter on the lens whereas I have plenty of 52mm IR filters for the G1
 
Now there's a story:)

I got the E-PL1, had a poke around and a play, decided it wasn't for me as it didn't feel right to hold, asked my smallest lad if he would like to swap it for my old 'spare' Panny G1 that I let him have, he decided that was a good idea as the E-PL1 does video and now I have a 640nm G1 again:)
I prefer the feel of the G1 as its more like a small DSLR with a proper grip. Also, the kit lens of the E-PL1 takes silly small filters so it would be awkward to fit a higher wavelength filter on the lens whereas I have plenty of 52mm IR filters for the G1

I assume with g1's, you're simply removing the ir filter from the sensor to create a full spectrum camera? Or do you add a 640 to the sensor?
 
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