OK then, let's see YOUR infrared images please.

2gcx4Lx
St. Lukes by Dave Kiddle, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
That's a super image Dave. Right up my street.
 
Hi all
Have just got my ir converted camera oiut again to try and get some inspiration back into photography, its a finepix s5700 no raw option, I normally use it for b&w but was looking at some of the colour images and thought will have a try.
What I cant work out is how some of you get the foilage a yelowish colour, after colour swapping mine are pink, this shot I just went out and took to show, white balance is set from the grass on my lawn
Any advice would be very much appreciated

Straight out the camera
DSCF2254.jpg

Colour swapped
DSCF2255-Edit.jpg
 
What wavelength conversion do you have? "Goldie" images work best on 590nm conversions. Anything longer (I found) wasn't so good.

May as well add this...


Washi Z Test by Ian, on Flickr
 
RKC said:
Hi all
Have just got my ir converted camera oiut again to try and get some inspiration back into photography, its a finepix s5700 no raw option, I normally use it for b&w but was looking at some of the colour images and thought will have a try.
What I cant work out is how some of you get the foilage a yelowish colour, after colour swapping mine are pink, this shot I just went out and took to show, white balance is set from the grass on my lawn
Any advice would be very much appreciated

Straight out the camera
View attachment 249068

Colour swapped
View attachment 249069
Click to expand...
I generally find a tweak of the hue controller works wonders, in fact it gives the choice of pink leaves or golden ones without the need for a channel swap.

These 2 were both with a 25A filter (~590nm) using the same CWB and within half an hour of each other:
P1160561d by Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
P1160563c by Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
 
Harlequin565 said:
What wavelength conversion do you have? "Goldie" images work best on 590nm conversions. Anything longer (I found) wasn't so go
Click to expand...

No idea Ian but I think full specrum

Petrochemist said:
I generally find a tweak of the hue controller works wonders, in fact it gives the choice of pink leaves or golden ones without the need for a channel swap.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike will have a play
 
RKC said:
Hi all
Have just got my ir converted camera oiut again to try and get some inspiration back into photography, its a finepix s5700 no raw option, I normally use it for b&w but was looking at some of the colour images and thought will have a try.
What I cant work out is how some of you get the foilage a yelowish colour, after colour swapping mine are pink, this shot I just went out and took to show, white balance is set from the grass on my lawn
Any advice would be very much appreciated

Straight out the camera
View attachment 249068

Colour swapped
View attachment 249069
Click to expand...


Hi, The use of higher level filters >760 etc tends to give paler foliage. If you want more (false) colour tone (and therefore a better grey scale range) in the foliage, a lower wavelength filter will help... I like the dark red and red filters.
After a little play with your image, this popped out. Very similar to my 720 filter work. for this I swapped around the colour channels as: RED: R-26,G54,B-113, GREEN: R--29, G64, B76, BLUE: R 153, G-76, B 9.
I hope this gives you a starting point.....
exampleirpic1.jpg

exampleirpic1.jpg

An edited photo of another member.... trying other channel swapping..
 
Cluster said:
Hi, The use of higher level filters >760 etc tends to give paler foliage. If you want more (false) colour tone (and therefore a better grey scale range) in the foliage, a lower wavelength filter will help... I like the dark red and red filters.
After a little play with your image, this popped out. Very similar to my 720 filter work. for this I swapped around the colour channels as: RED: R-26,G54,B-113, GREEN: R--29, G64, B76, BLUE: R 153, G-76, B 9.
I hope this gives you a starting point.....
exampleirpic1.jpg

exampleirpic1.jpg

An edited photo of another member.... trying other channel swapping..
Click to expand...

Thank you Dave, certainly pops more
 
From a test roll of Konica IR 750. 15 more rolls in the post!!! Needs a bit of a pull in development, but I'm loving it.

2020-01-08-konica750-r3m-07.jpg
 
i have some outdated Kodak High Speed Infra - Red film still in my film fridge -- I can show a couple taken on Pentax --
Asahi Pentax MX + 24mm f3.5 SMC Takumar + Red Filter on South Downs
South Downs (IR) by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Seven Sisters (IR) by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Scans from 10x8" Darkroom Prints
 
Excellent Peter (y)
 
Very nice Mark.
 
Harlequin565 said:
Very nice Mark.
Click to expand...

Thank you Ian they were taken on a converted Panasonic TZ9 I brought off a member of the camera club i'm a member of. He very kindly sent me a photoshop action to help process them and then I used Silver Effects to finish them off. I think I still have a lot to learn.
 
2020-05-23-konica750-t90-10.jpg

Handy tip: The lens hood you use for your 50mm lens cannot be re-appropriated for your 28mm, even if it looks ok in the viewfinder.
 
Harlequin565 said:
Handy tip: The lens hood you use for your 50mm lens cannot be re-appropriated for your 28mm, even if it looks ok in the viewfinder.
Click to expand...

Surely that depends on the crop factor of your sensor, a FF 50mm hood should be fine on MFT or smaller sensors. Unlike SLRs, Mirrorless cameras typically show 100% of the sensor image so checking the viewfinder carefully will tell.
 
It's re-appropriated from the same camera, just swapped the lens and kept the hood. Camera was an SLR - the super attractive T90.
 
Hi, I just started playing with IR, after buying a 590nm converted D200. I started a separate thread for my first effort but after Harlequin kindly pointed me here, I've been reading this thread to learn more. Thanks to that and diverting to a few linked articles, I'm starting to get the idea of what I might be doing. My initial, straight-from-camera, images were exciting enough for their weirdness:
20200705-D200-IR590_007__DSC0011-LakenTrees2 by Lindsay Pennell, on Flickr

but then after discovering about channel-swapping (and tweaking, I got to this:
20200705-D200-IR590_007__DSC0011-LakenTrees2fixed by Lindsay Pennell, on Flickr

which was obtained using Affinity which has a Channel Mixer control that's really easy to use - and makes it equally easy to save settings as a Preset.
Loving this branch of photography, and the post-processing is more fun than usual. I'm already thinking about a 720nm conversion to play with as well!
 
Lindsay56 said:
makes it equally easy to save settings as a Preset.
Click to expand...
Whatever software you use, this ability makes IR conversions a breeze. Click and done (or click and at a great starting point). Saves having to remember how to do it every time :)
 
Here are some from a cassette of 1997 dated Kodak High Speed infra-red found in my Freezer and used with a 25A RED filter on my 1987 bought Asahi Pentax LX in Central Park, Chelmsford Essex ( England) I did a TEST first in the Garden on my Wife's Tomato Plants to get the right exposure level and development time of 14 minutes in my Home-Made FX-15 9 Acutol-S) Formula 1+1.

InfraRed Test 02 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
InfraRed Test 03 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
InfraRed Test 09 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
InfraRed Test 10 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 
Shugpug said:
Anyone with any insight for processing Rollei IR shot at EI25 with a 720nm filter..? I've got Ilfotec HC or DD-X on hand...
Click to expand...

MDC has 6 min for Rollei IR @ 400 in HC-110(B) which I use successfully. Pulling it by a stop would be about 4.5 minutes by my 20% rule of thumb. Pulling by another stop would be 3.5 minutes which feels mighty short.

Were your exposure times over a second? If so, did you account for reciprocity failure? I put the results of my tests on my blog here because there was precious little on the internet about it.
 
Harlequin565 said:
MDC has 6 min for Rollei IR @ 400 in HC-110(B) which I use successfully. Pulling it by a stop would be about 4.5 minutes by my 20% rule of thumb. Pulling by another stop would be 3.5 minutes which feels mighty short.

Were your exposure times over a second? If so, did you account for reciprocity failure? I put the results of my tests on my blog here because there was precious little on the internet about it.
Click to expand...
Very approximately... As in, for anything over a second, I doubled it, and anything over ten seconds, I then added a bit more. Shot on a Pinhole, and bought somewhat on a whim, so I will not be upset of I've completely screwed it up.

My understanding for this film is that's it's only ASA400 when shot unfiltered, and somewhere between 6 and 25 when shot just in the IR range, dependent on the filter used.

Agree that 3:30 feels very short - I think I'm going to guesstimate 6 mins at 20°C and see what I get...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top