Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Just on the "mysets" I have an Em5 Mark2, and wondering if there is a way to rename each myset? I don;t think there is, but I bow to the collective wisdom of the forum!

j
 
No. You can't Sorry. You can't rename, review them or back them up. The best you can do is add them to a spare Mode Dial position. Such as Photo Story.

Some people write them down on physical paper. And some memorise the number connected to the purpose, like this:
1. Standard
2. Bracket (Up + Down = 2)
3. Tripod (3 Legs)

It's a pretty poor show though.
 
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After some help with my E-M1

my wife has been trying to do some blogging video work with it, the came is sat on a tripod not moving and it will record up to 8-40minutes and stop. ive turned off all power saving modes but keeps stopping at the same time? any help please?
 
Hey guys can some kind person confirm the following is correct regarding shutter shock issues with the E-M10, E-M5 and E-M1? Just trying to get my head around it to assist with purchase decisions.

1: All 3 cameras were prone to this in certain circumstances in the past.
2: The issue is not related to IBIS and is vibration from the initial movement of the shutter from the open to closed position.
3: Shutter shock is not limited to these 3 cameras and affects other MILCs but none are reported on any Fuji X system cams.
4: All 3 cameras could lessen or eliminate the issue by using the anti shock setting in the menu.
5: Since the firmware update that unlocks the EFCS (electronic first curtain shutter) capabilities the E-M1 and E-M10 no longer have the shutter shock issue at all and no additional shutter lag is introduced with this firmware. i.e. Also referred to as the equivalent of "0 second anti shock" rather than the minimum 1/8th of a second additional shutter lag you get with anti shock.
6: The E-M5 does not have the capability to use EFCS and is therefore more prone to shutter shock permanently with no firmware fix.
7: The E-M5 mkII can use EFCS as well.
 
And another question....
What are the differences in AF-S and AF-C between the E-M10, E-M5 and E-M1?

I know the E-M1 has phase detect sensors so presumably is the best for AF-C?
I want to know if it is still faster than the Fuji X-T1 and Fuji X-T10 at both AF-S and AF-C.
 
clicktor said:
Hey guys can some kind person confirm the following is correct regarding shutter shock issues with the E-M10, E-M5 and E-M1? Just trying to get my head around it to assist with purchase decisions.

1: All 3 cameras were prone to this in certain circumstances in the past.
2: The issue is not related to IBIS and is vibration from the initial movement of the shutter from the open to closed position.
3: Shutter shock is not limited to these 3 cameras and affects other MILCs but none are reported on any Fuji X system cams.
4: All 3 cameras could lessen or eliminate the issue by using the anti shock setting in the menu.
5: Since the firmware update that unlocks the EFCS (electronic first curtain shutter) capabilities the E-M1 and E-M10 no longer have the shutter shock issue at all and no additional shutter lag is introduced with this firmware. i.e. Also referred to as the equivalent of "0 second anti shock" rather than the minimum 1/8th of a second additional shutter lag you get with anti shock.
6: The E-M5 does not have the capability to use EFCS and is therefore more prone to shutter shock permanently with no firmware fix.
7: The E-M5 mkII can use EFCS as well.
Click to expand...

Almost but not quite, even with anti-shock I still get shutter shock on the EM10 and to a lesser extent the EM1. However, it is lens dependant and I only ever really see it with the 40-150 kit lens at 150mm and this is because with auto-ISO engaged it choses the exact shutter speed at 150mm before upping the ISO that causes it shutter shock on my cameras. Also, it is not guaranteed to happen even with this (and less so with the EM1 - I think it's a weight/resonance thing) but if I fire off three shots one of them will be fine so I just to that.

I get no shutter shuck that I notice with any of my other lenses.

clicktor said:
And another question....
What are the differences in AF-S and AF-C between the E-M10, E-M5 and E-M1?

I know the E-M1 has phase detect sensors so presumably is the best for AF-C?
I want to know if it is still faster than the Fuji X-T1 and Fuji X-T10 at both AF-S and AF-C.
Click to expand...

If you need half decent AFC then the only option is the EM1 or EM5mk2 - it's not even with bothering engaging with the others. All are more or less instantaneous with AFS but this is lens dependant.

I don't know specifically but I believe you won't really see a difference in AFS between the Oly and Fuji but at AFC the Oly EM1 is a fair bit the better one since firmware V3.0 (I believe the Fuji still falls in the don't bother camp but could be wrong).
 
I'm having problems with the evf, no doubt this is due to user error. I just can't seem to get the veiwfinder to work how I think it should (unless I'm misunderstanding) and as much as I've looked through the menus I don't know how to change it. My understanding is that the viewfinder should be able the realise the image as you want it? So if I under or over expose the image in the viewfinder should change accordingly? This doesn't seem to be happening, and the same with the live histogram, the image and the histogram stay the same no matter how much I over or under expose.

ps This is all pre taking the shot and on the em1 by the way. Thanks
 
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milster said:
I'm having problems with the evf, no doubt this is due to user error. I just can't seem to get the veiwfinder to work how I think it should (unless I'm misunderstanding) and as much as I've looked through the menus I don't know how to change it. My understanding is that the viewfinder should be able the realise the image as you want it? So if I under or over expose the image in the viewfinder should change accordingly? This doesn't seem to be happening, and the same with the live histogram, the image and the histogram stay the same no matter how much I over or under expose.

ps This is all pre taking the shot and on the em1 by the way. Thanks
Click to expand...

You probably have Live View Boost (I think that's what it's called) switched on, this disables the shoot what you see element as it boosts the display in all situations.
 
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Tucksy81 said:
After some help with my E-M1

my wife has been trying to do some blogging video work with it, the came is sat on a tripod not moving and it will record up to 8-40minutes and stop. ive turned off all power saving modes but keeps stopping at the same time? any help please?
Click to expand...
Isn't there a 30 minute limit on videos to stop still cameras attracting the higher tax of video cameras?
 
Snapsh0t said:
Isn't there a 30 minute limit on videos to stop still cameras attracting the higher tax of video cameras?
Click to expand...
Yea thanks. I've seen you have a 2Gb limit and I had Raw + JPEG on so was a very large file.
All sorted now cheers
 
If using a macro lens on an em1 do I use just the lens macro, or use the scene macro mode and the lens macro at the same time or will they conflict?.
 
Nawty said:
Almost but not quite, even with anti-shock I still get shutter shock on the EM10 and to a lesser extent the EM1. However, it is lens dependant and I only ever really see it with the 40-150 kit lens at 150mm and this is because with auto-ISO engaged it choses the exact shutter speed at 150mm before upping the ISO that causes it shutter shock on my cameras. Also, it is not guaranteed to happen even with this (and less so with the EM1 - I think it's a weight/resonance thing) but if I fire off three shots one of them will be fine so I just to that.

I get no shutter shuck that I notice with any of my other lenses.



If you need half decent AFC then the only option is the EM1 or EM5mk2 - it's not even with bothering engaging with the others. All are more or less instantaneous with AFS but this is lens dependant.

I don't know specifically but I believe you won't really see a difference in AFS between the Oly and Fuji but at AFC the Oly EM1 is a fair bit the better one since firmware V3.0 (I believe the Fuji still falls in the don't bother camp but could be wrong).
Click to expand...


Thanks Nawty. Interesting. So in your experience then, the firmware fix has NOT entirely eradicated SSS on EM10 and EM1. This is in contrast to what I have read elsewhere. Do you agree with all my other points?
I find it strange that different lenses exhibit the problem and others do not. Why do you think this is? I do not understand the correlation. I thought the blurring came from the actual sensor being vibrated and/or moved during exposure? So what difference would it make if you had a 3000mm lens or a 20mm pancake? Is it to do with resonant frequencies and different damping properties of different masses attached to the mount which make the problem worse in exceptional circumstances?

With regard to the Fuji X-T1 and X-T10, I'm waiting to see a proper test from someone to show the AF-C with the new firmware to see if it is improved. I think there is vast improvement in AF-S, but not sure about AF-C.
 
Having had an E-M5, E-M1, and E-M10, I can honestly say I've never seen any evidence of shutter shock with any combination of camera/lens that I have. I'm guessing it has to be a very particular set of circumstances to exhibit the behaviour!
 
I have had extensive experience with both E-M5 and E-M1 (now on Fuji X series) and never experienced shutter shock. I'm not saying it doesn't exist, after all Olympus brought out a fix for it, but in my shooting experience using medium shutter speeds, no issues.
 
damianmkv said:
2 shot blend from my lunchtime walk with the samyang. Need to get out more but am having knee surgery on Friday so walking any distance won't be possible for a few weeks

man made monster by damianmkv, on Flickr
Click to expand...


Wow damianmkv that's a great shot. I never realized the Samyang was as cheap as it was. Probably the cheapest and widest ultra wide for m43rds that still has good quality? I have seen it for under £200 new. Reckon it's worth a punt or a novelty thing?
 
Jury is out still - it's sharp enough and easy to use. As long as you keep the horizon central, it works pretty well as a UWA.

Will I get bored ? Maybe but for now I'm enjoying using it :D
 
You can de-fish it pretty well and still end up with a very wide rectilinear image, besides, you can't blame it for being a fish-eye as that's what it is.

Have to say though, I really like the rendering from the Samyang - the images seem to have a very nice quality about them.
 
I think it also helps that Damian is a very talented photographer. I have no regrets selling my 20mm to him as the results he's got from it far outshine my own.
I hope the buyer for my 45mm does it equal justice!
:)
 
I'd love to but I'm about to have 2 new bathrooms, an extension and a garage conversion. Pennies are a wee bit tight :(
 
If you'll take a shower cubicle, a garage door and about 100 bricks we could have a deal..
 
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