Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

gad-westy said:
So I'm going for:
EM5ii
12-40 2.8
45mm 1.8
40-150 2.8
1.4x TC
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Oooh! 12mm is your widest? That's going to weigh on your mind. That Samyang is going to start to look mighty sweet when your zoom hits those wide end buffers at 12mm.

gad-westy said:
Ignore me. I found the answer buried in the google
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Probably best to post your solution, rather than leave the question hanging. It all helps the community.
 
Well 25mm was the widest lens I had on fx and I did manage for a long time like that. Had a 20mm too for a while and loved that but it didn't get used that often. I would like a wider lens but my budget has already been severely massaged! The wide, the pancake and the 17mm are all going to have to wait!

Apparently the answer is 'yes' to the raw file handling but I won't get my hands on my e-m5ii until next week so just what I've read so far.
 
alfbranch said:
I posted some shots on page 181 of this thread using various lenses for a real compact set up I am happy the E-M5 Mkii with the 14-42 EZ

Edit typo corrected

Here is a 40mp shot witt the E-M5 Mkii and 9-18mm

Buttermere reflection 2 by Alf Branch, on Flickr
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Is that derwent water Alf, I seem to recall Melvin Nicolson has a shot a bit like that I love that also, seems like an iconic place to shoot
 
littleted said:
Is that derwent water Alf, I seem to recall Melvin Nicolson has a shot a bit like that I love that also, seems like an iconic place to shoot
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No as per the title it is Buttermere as per the title.
It is geotagged on Flickr
 
Dr Wu said:
Faster card it is then, nice cheap fix.
Just as a bye the bye, I was using the Panny 20mm and the Oly 45mmm and whilst images from the former were nice, the images with the 45 were excellent ( in my eyes anyway) I'm tempted to get the Oly 25mm to see if it is as good.
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Thought I better fess up after previous thread just in case anyone else made the same mistake....unlikely!

I did go and buy a faster card but found it made no difference until I realised that I had set the picture review at 3 seconds....:banghead:

I reset this to no review and the writing to camera was a fraction of a second .
Problem solved!
 
Dr Wu said:
Thought I better fess up after previous thread just in case anyone else made the same mistake....unlikely!

I did go and buy a faster card but found it made no difference until I realised that I had set the picture review at 3 seconds....:banghead:

I reset this to no review and the writing to camera was a fraction of a second .
Problem solved!
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That suggests its down to processing power.
 
Has anyone tried using the Metabones speedbooster for astrophotography? Just a thought I've had this afternoon. For example if I had a 12mm f2 on a Nikon mount with a 1.42 crop factor and an apparent full stop of extra light that should give me an effective 18mm f1.4? Just wondering if it would actually work.
 
I'm looking at getting a fast prime for a bit of point and shoot photography whilst out and about in the evening or late afternoons. Mostly looking at capturing unaware bystanders and the action of the street for a bit of fun. What would the suggestions be? I use the EM5 for this in black and white or with the art filters rather than raw shots as its for fun and learning to get it as right as possible from the camera to begin with.
 
Andrew Moore said:
I'm looking at getting a fast prime for a bit of point and shoot photography whilst out and about in the evening or late afternoons. Mostly looking at capturing unaware bystanders and the action of the street for a bit of fun. What would the suggestions be? I use the EM5 for this in black and white or with the art filters rather than raw shots as its for fun and learning to get it as right as possible from the camera to begin with.
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It really depends on how you see things, I prefer the 45mm for street as it gives you some distance form the subject and an intimate look whereas some swear you need the 17mm to 'give context' or 'get in the action'. And then I tend to prefer telephoto for landscape too...

Horses for courses really.
 
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Andrew Moore said:
I'm looking at getting a fast prime for a bit of point and shoot photography whilst out and about in the evening or late afternoons. Mostly looking at capturing unaware bystanders and the action of the street for a bit of fun. What would the suggestions be? I use the EM5 for this in black and white or with the art filters rather than raw shots as its for fun and learning to get it as right as possible from the camera to begin with.
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A lot of people like the 25mm as it is a great lens but it does boil down to the focal length that you are comfortable shooting in and the look that you want to get
 
One advantage for the 17mm f1.8 is that you can use it for old style zone focusing much easier... set the shutter speed, put the lens in manual focus and set the distance and aperture and there's no need to focus, you just point and shoot.
 
woof woof said:
One advantage for the 17mm f1.8 is that you can use it for old style zone focusing much easier... set the shutter speed, put the lens in manual focus and set the distance and aperture and there's no need to focus, you just point and shoot.
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Just received one today and it is a very nice lens. Much better than the 17/2.8 which I used to use. The instant pull-for-MF action is very quick and handy.
 
paulcamcas said:
Just received one today and it is a very nice lens. Much better than the 17/2.8 which I used to use. The instant pull-for-MF action is very quick and handy.
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I wish all MFT lenses were made this way. Actually, I think I'd like my Sony FE lenses to be made this way too.
 
After using the Tamrac Zuma3 case now on two occasions I am finding it a little too deep. I have found a few spare £s and thinking of getting a Tenba DNA 8 for my em-10 with the 12-40 fitted and also the Panna 35-100 as a carry along. Anyone have one of these? Are you happy with it?
thanks
Steve
 
Just a musing here. I am fortunate to have a nice collection of photographic gear (getting old you see - no mortgage), and have a Nikon D810, D750 and D7200, but also have my lovely EM1, EM5 II and LX100 M4/3 system with good Olympus and Panasonic glass.

I had a sort of epiphany the other day, when I was bemoaning the apparent lack of resolution in the EM1 and EM5 II with their measly 16mp, where M4/3 seems to have been for years until the new 20mp sensor came out recently in the GX8. Then yesterday, I went shooting with the D7200 and a "walk about" DX lens I had - the Nikon 16-85 VR, which back in the days of the old D300 was a decent lens, but noticed yesterday It's really starting to show it's age on the 24mp sensor of the D7200, and images taken were OK, but nothing special with sharpness average at best. It seems my DSLR's really shine only when very good glass is on them (for instance my Tamron 24-70 F28 VC, or my dearly departed Nikon 17-55 F28).

However I've noticed that no matter what lens I shoot with on the Olympus cameras (be it my cheap kit 14-42, 12-40 F2.8 Pro, 17mm F1.8 etc), they all come out tack sharp, and it's difficult to get an image which isn't' usable (unless I screw up). I don't know if this is because M4/3 lens have fewer lemons and are better QC controlled, the AF is more accurate on mirrorless (albeit maybe not as quick in continuous AF), if it's the IBIS, or a combination of them all.

I really think that if Olympus (or Panasonic for that matter), could defy the laws of physics and design a 20mp+ sensor with really clean ISO3200 and good ISO6400 (so about a stop to a stop and a half better than what we have now), I think I could finally drop the DSLR system altogether, however as it is, shooting long lenses (like the Panasonic 100-300 @ F5.6), requires pretty high ISO in the UK winter light, and the quality compared to what the Nikon's do at the same ISO's is a little lacking. Obviously lenses like the new Olympus 300mm F4 would give me a stop back but at over £2k, it's a serious lens investment for M4/3 especially when I have that FL covered in Nikon lenses I have. The panny 100-400 is probably going to be a great lens as well but again, is only F5.6.

Any body else think that the system is about 8 to 9/10ths there, and that the final piece of the puzzle is better CAF (although it's currently by no means disastrous), and a little better high ISO coupled with a little more resolution, and it would be a killer system. (even as good as it is now). As it is, I will continue to use my little Olympus bodies for everything except where high ISO or more resolution is required, when the Nikon's will take over.
 
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Sootchucker said:
Just a musing here. I am fortunate to have a nice collection of photographic gear (getting old you see - no mortgage), and have a Nikon D810, D750 and D7200, but also have my lovely EM1, EM5 II and LX100 M4/3 system with good Olympus and Panasonic glass.

I had a sort of epiphany the other day, when I was bemoaning the apparent lack of resolution in the EM1 and EM5 II with their measly 16mp, where M4/3 seems to have been for years until the new 20mp sensor came out recently in the GX8. Then yesterday, I went shooting with the D7200 and a "walk about" DX lens I had - the Nikon 16-85 VR, which back in the days of the old D300 was a decent lens, but noticed yesterday It's really starting to show it's age on the 24mp sensor of the D7200, and images taken were OK, but nothing special with sharpness average at best. It seems my DSLR's really shine only when very good glass is on them (for instance my Tamron 24-70 F28 VC, or my dearly departed Nikon 17-55 F28).

However I've noticed that no matter what lens I shoot with on the Olympus cameras (be it my cheap kit 14-42, 12-40 F2.8 Pro, 17mm F1.8 etc), they all come out tack sharp, and it's difficult to get an image which isn't' usable (unless I screw up). I don't know if this is because M4/3 lens have fewer lemons and are better QC controlled, the AF is more accurate on mirrorless (albeit maybe not as quick in continuous AF), if it's the IBIS, or a combination of them all.

I really think that if Olympus (or Panasonic for that matter), could defy the laws of physics and design a 20mp+ sensor with really clean ISO3200 and good ISO6400 (so about a stop to a stop and a half better than what we have now), I think I could finally drop the DSLR system altogether, however as it is, shooting long lenses (like the Panasonic 100-300 @ F5.6), requires pretty high ISO in the UK winter light, and the quality compared to what the Nikon's do at the same ISO's is a little lacking. Obviously lenses like the new Olympus 300mm F4 would give me a stop back but at over £2k, it's a serious lens investment for M4/3 especially when I have that FL covered in Nikon lenses I have. The panny 100-400 is probably going to be a great lens as well but again, is only F5.6.

Any body else think that the system is about 8 to 9/10ths there, and that the final piece of the puzzle is better CAF (although it's currently by no means disastrous), and a little better high ISO coupled with a little more resolution, and it would be a killer system. (even as good as it is now). As it is, I will continue to use my little Olympus bodies for everything except where high ISO or more resolution is required, when the Nikon's will take over.
Click to expand...

I've just sold my D610 and a handful of prime lenses to move to m4/3. I've kept a D3 and 70-200 2.8. Funnily enough in my case, the resolution and noise performance, I wasn't so worried about. More resolution is always nice but it dawned on me recently that I'm really only seeing the benefits when zooming in on my monitor rather than printing big. And in fact, even when printing big, I'd have to go really big to start to see big gains. So I decided to downsize for nearly all my photography.

Noise performance isn't bad at all IMO. The most recent full frame sensors are obviously on a higher plane but I'm pretty happy with 3200.

The reason I kept the D3 and 70-200 2.8 is for action stuff. I like that m4/3 and other mirrorless cameras seem to be making slow incremental improvements in this areas, but a decent (or even average) DSLR just makes moving targets a breeze. I look forward to the day I can ditch the DSLR for good. The D3 with a 70-200 attached looks ridiculous next to my new EM5ii !
 
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And speaking of the E-m5ii. Newbie question time (1st of many): Any need to turn off ibis when camera is on a tripod?
 
gad-westy said:
And speaking of the E-m5ii. Newbie question time (1st of many): Any need to turn off ibis when camera is on a tripod?
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You shoukd turn the IBIS off as it can reduce sharpness on a tripod.
 
alfbranch said:
You shoukd turn the IBIS off as it can reduce sharpness on a tripod.
Click to expand...

Thanks Alf.

Started wading through youtube tutorials last night in an effort to get the camera set up for my uses. In the meantime the SCP makes most things prettty straight forward.
 
ianp5a said:
I have a Tripod-Myset. (Myset-3 for 3 legs) With IBIS OFF, ISO 200, and Antishock ON. I forget what else I set.
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Yeah, I remember doing something similar with old Nikon user sets. Had something like, handheld auto iso, handheld fixed iso, tripod, video.

Olympus menus are living up to their reputation at the moment. Struggling to wade through it all (though in fairness, only spent 30 mins or so so far). Thank goodness for the SCP!
 
gad-westy said:
Yeah, I remember doing something similar with old Nikon user sets. Had something like, handheld auto iso, handheld fixed iso, tripod, video.

Olympus menus are living up to their reputation at the moment. Struggling to wade through it all (though in fairness, only spent 30 mins or so so far). Thank goodness for the SCP!
Click to expand...

On that note actually,

Any good online resources for configuring the E-M5ii? I found a couple of youtube videos which are good but ideally there'd be some comprehensive written stuff somwhere.
 
I actually find the menus self explanatory and pretty easy to use, if I get stuck on hen the info button helps. What does get confusing is that some features get deactivated when you switch on others and it can be a right pain trying to figure out what's going on.

What would be ideal for me is to be able to have the buttons toggle features on and off (eg spot metering) rather than having to use my sets and the SCP.
 
gad-westy said:
On that note actually,

Any good online resources for configuring the E-M5ii? I found a couple of youtube videos which are good but ideally there'd be some comprehensive written stuff somwhere.
Click to expand...
There is a lot of stuff at mu43.com.
And, despite it being a YouTube video this is a great, comprehensive, densely packed resource for the EM5ii.
View: https://youtu.be/dI4NtRoEb_k
 
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Sootchucker said:
Just a musing here. I am fortunate to have a nice collection of photographic gear (getting old you see - no mortgage), and have a Nikon D810, D750 and D7200, but also have my lovely EM1, EM5 II and LX100 M4/3 system with good Olympus and Panasonic glass.

I had a sort of epiphany the other day, when I was bemoaning the apparent lack of resolution in the EM1 and EM5 II with their measly 16mp, where M4/3 seems to have been for years until the new 20mp sensor came out recently in the GX8. Then yesterday, I went shooting with the D7200 and a "walk about" DX lens I had - the Nikon 16-85 VR, which back in the days of the old D300 was a decent lens, but noticed yesterday It's really starting to show it's age on the 24mp sensor of the D7200, and images taken were OK, but nothing special with sharpness average at best. It seems my DSLR's really shine only when very good glass is on them (for instance my Tamron 24-70 F28 VC, or my dearly departed Nikon 17-55 F28).

However I've noticed that no matter what lens I shoot with on the Olympus cameras (be it my cheap kit 14-42, 12-40 F2.8 Pro, 17mm F1.8 etc), they all come out tack sharp, and it's difficult to get an image which isn't' usable (unless I screw up). I don't know if this is because M4/3 lens have fewer lemons and are better QC controlled, the AF is more accurate on mirrorless (albeit maybe not as quick in continuous AF), if it's the IBIS, or a combination of them all.

I really think that if Olympus (or Panasonic for that matter), could defy the laws of physics and design a 20mp+ sensor with really clean ISO3200 and good ISO6400 (so about a stop to a stop and a half better than what we have now), I think I could finally drop the DSLR system altogether, however as it is, shooting long lenses (like the Panasonic 100-300 @ F5.6), requires pretty high ISO in the UK winter light, and the quality compared to what the Nikon's do at the same ISO's is a little lacking. Obviously lenses like the new Olympus 300mm F4 would give me a stop back but at over £2k, it's a serious lens investment for M4/3 especially when I have that FL covered in Nikon lenses I have. The panny 100-400 is probably going to be a great lens as well but again, is only F5.6.

Any body else think that the system is about 8 to 9/10ths there, and that the final piece of the puzzle is better CAF (although it's currently by no means disastrous), and a little better high ISO coupled with a little more resolution, and it would be a killer system. (even as good as it is now). As it is, I will continue to use my little Olympus bodies for everything except where high ISO or more resolution is required, when the Nikon's will take over.
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I think it's the AF, from my experience (and understanding) contrast detect is more accurate and consistent to get tack sharp images. PDAF works of distances and has a 1/3 depth of field tolerance. My EM5-II is tack sharp every time, but AF speed can't compete with my D750 so it's swings and roundabouts. With landscape I tend to use liveview as I believe (although always happy to be proven wrong) that the CDAF is more accurate than the PDAF.
 
Here is how I set my EM5ii up:

SCP: LF +Raw
Menu D. USB set to: Storage.
Menu D. Mode guide: OFF.
Menu E. ISO-Auto set. max 4000.
Menu E. Live Bulb, Live Time: 2 Sec
Menu F. Flash Slow limit: 1/15 (sets auto ISO speed)
Menu G. Keep Warm colour OFF

High res mode: on shooting menu.
High res setting: Hi res On, then activate LF+Raw then hi res Off. High res delay 1sec.
 
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Like he says, get ready with the pause button. And stop-start through it. As he goes right on to the next one before you get it.
 
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ianp5a said:
Like he says, get ready with the pause button. And stop-start through it. As he goes right on to the next one before you get it.
Click to expand...

Good video that. Lighting pace as warned! Feel like I'm just about starting to get the hang of this thing. I've used Nikons for 95% of my photography in the last few years and their menu system is second nature. This is very different but potentially much more customisable which I like.
 
Right, well as warned, more noob questions.
  1. Can I customise the SCP to remove some stuff I don't want and maybe add some stuff I do (super high res on/off being one example)
  2. Can I use an FN button to change mysets?
  3. Can I set an FN button to turn eye detect on/off?
 
1. No. Buck up Olympus!
2. Nearly. Press and hold for the Myset. Release to revert. So not great for tripod use.
3. Yes. It might be as standard. |O|
 
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ianp5a said:
1. No. Buck up Olympus!
2. Nearly. Press and hold for the Myset. Release to revert. So not great for tripod use.
3. Yes. It might be as standard. |O|
Click to expand...

Great stuff. Number 1 is very irritating though. I shoot in raw and half the SCP stuff is relevant to jpeg only.
 
anyone used / using a voigtlander f0.95 ? I know they're MF but i was considering hiring one for a few days to have a play. I've looked on Mu-43 and they look OK..maybe a bit'll drive me nuts but might be worth a go ?
 
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