Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

This was a kit lens that came with the camera. I got the body and lens on a great deal that was cheaper than body only, so I'm not really out of pocket. But I do prefer the positive feel of a metal mount.

Off for another walk that way today, might have another poke around!
 
I will be listing a kit lens this weekend I bought for testing on my em5 mk2
 
Apologies for asking another question regarding the 0M-D E-M1.
Have any of you come across a hand strap dedicated to this camera.
Reason is I've had a stroke which has restricted my right side movements, which includes my hand, this being my reason for changing to the Olympus system from my Canon gear, saving considerably weight wise.
I used to wrap the shoulder strap around my wrist and hand before but this won't be good enough now.
Many thanks, in anticipation.

Cap
 
I don't use a wrist strap on my M5ii but I had an Optech neoprene wrist strap like this for my DSLR which I think might work well. It is quite comfy for bigger cameras, but there are smaller versions by optech too if you search on Amazon.
 
Bebop said:
I don't use a wrist strap on my M5ii but I had an Optech neoprene wrist strap like this for my DSLR which I think might work well. It is quite comfy for bigger cameras, but there are smaller versions by optech too if you search on Amazon.
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Not dissimilar to the peak design wrist strap which I'd imagine is a little stronger than the neoprene.

Only thing is I find it quite fiddly to attach / detach in a hurry sometimes.
 
Ian W said:
Not dissimilar to the peak design wrist strap which I'd imagine is a little stronger than the neoprene.

Only thing is I find it quite fiddly to attach / detach in a hurry sometimes.
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They are made for DSLRs, so pretty robust and comfy.

I use the Peak Design shoulder strap on my M5ii. That also has a third attachment so you can hook it onto a belt so the camera doesn't hit the deck if you're hand holding and drop it (unless you're kneeling?!) - I've never used it like that and can't remember how it works. I do find the little bobbles get in the way a bit, so I've been considering changing it. I never seem to detach it.

Edit: The optech wrist strap is VERY fiddly to attach and detach.
 
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Had one of 'those' evenings...fancied shooting the sunset so went to the river....sun went behind a cloud. Drove 5 miles to the lake, no sun...saw a heron, upped the ISO and a dog chased the heron away. Went to a bridge for some desperation ( not like that..to do light trails )... put on the 10 stopper...forgot to change the ISO from 2500 down to 200. 60 seconds of noisy image. On the upside, the filter appears neutral :)

Dunno why I bother some times
 
Martin E. Morris said:
Apologies for asking another question regarding the 0M-D E-M1.
Have any of you come across a hand strap dedicated to this camera.
Reason is I've had a stroke which has restricted my right side movements, which includes my hand, this being my reason for changing to the Olympus system from my Canon gear, saving considerably weight wise.
I used to wrap the shoulder strap around my wrist and hand before but this won't be good enough now.
Many thanks, in anticipation.

Cap
Click to expand...

Cap
Yeah Oly do one that works with the E-M1 and HLD7 battery grip

https://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c...ssories/pen_om_d_cases_straps/gs_5/index.html
 
damianmkv said:
Had one of 'those' evenings...fancied shooting the sunset so went to the river....sun went behind a cloud. Drove 5 miles to the lake, no sun...saw a heron, upped the ISO and a dog chased the heron away. Went to a bridge for some desperation ( not like that..to do light trails )... put on the 10 stopper...forgot to change the ISO from 2500 down to 200. 60 seconds of noisy image. On the upside, the filter appears neutral :)

Dunno why I bother some times
Click to expand...

Ha, I know that feeling
 
A couple of recent ones

Long exposure on the em10
Posts by Gary Miller, on Flickr

First dabble with IR with a Hoya filter (seriously thinking about getting a converted camera)
Infrared Tree Test by Gary Miller, on Flickr

First bash with the 60mm macro, need to have a look at the focus bracketing as I've seen some stunning results with that
Ladybird by Gary Miller, on Flickr
 
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milster said:
A couple of recent ones

Long exposure on the em10
Posts by Gary Miller, on Flickr

First dabble with IR with a Hoya filter (seriously thinking about getting a converted camera)
Infrared Tree Test by Gary Miller, on Flickr

First bash with the 60mm macro, need to have a look at the focus bracketing as I've seen some stunning results with that
Ladybird by Gary Miller, on Flickr
Click to expand...


They're great Gary, especially the first two :)

I'd like a bit more green on the leaf in 3, probably because all the ones I see at the moment are on really deep green foliage.
 
How is it that there is hardly any difference between the Jpg/raw on the first image, and there is on the second ? What setting to get rid of luminous grass?

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It looks like the middle left has got a touch less yellow and slightly less saturation. And maybe a tad less exposure too. On my uncalibrated mobile phone screen.
 
The software showing the comparison is Faststone, however it looks the same in CS6

Ignore the thumbnail, not sure why that is there?
 
I would like to read the exif but the image is not big enough even when taken into PS
 
All the EXIFs are the same ISO200, F/8, 1/200, +1/3EV

Three of the images look the same and looking at the histograms it looks as if the jpg engine has decided to reduce the exposure in the second image, no idea why but small differences can sometimes make the camera think differently.
 
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HI guys. Whilst there's a promo on at the moment on some Olympus Lenses, I've just ordered an Olympus 9-18mm (with a £100 cashback), to go on my travels rather than taking my 7-14 F2.8 pro (which does weigh quite a bit), and mainly to give me easy access to filters.

On that last point, I have a reasonable Lee Seven5 collection (soft and hard grads and a little & big stopper), but I currently only have a 62mm adapter ring for my 12-40 F2.8 Pro. Does anyone know if a 52-62mm step up ring would work on the 62mm ring without vignetting, as the genuine Lee rings are around £20 a pop and a step up ring is only £2.

Thanks
 
Bebop said:
@dcash29 it says there is an error on those links for me.
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Two points, when I open the file on my system prior to uploading it is legible, when I copy it from the site it isnt. Secondly, if I knew how to delete an unwanted posting , you wouldn't have seen it.

Ned, SS:400 - ISO:200 - APri:f8 - Exp Comp:+0.3 - Metering:Multi Seg. 4 seconds between shots
 
dcash29 said:
Two points, when I open the file on my system prior to uploading it is legible, when I copy it from the site it isnt. Secondly, if I knew how to delete an unwanted posting , you wouldn't have seen it
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okay. Just wanted to let you know. I don't have anything helpful to say I'm afraid, but was vaguely interested as I sometimes find my Canon compact does odd things with the greens!
I have seen some people edit their post by putting 'ignore' or something, so I assume it's not possible to delete a post.
 
So I bought a sigma 30 1:4. I'm not used to 1.4 - it's ( to me like ) 1.8 on my old d7000. Hope to take something less crappy soon with it
 
Sootchucker said:
HI guys. Whilst there's a promo on at the moment on some Olympus Lenses, I've just ordered an Olympus 9-18mm (with a £100 cashback), to go on my travels rather than taking my 7-14 F2.8 pro (which does weigh quite a bit), and mainly to give me easy access to filters.

On that last point, I have a reasonable Lee Seven5 collection (soft and hard grads and a little & big stopper), but I currently only have a 62mm adapter ring for my 12-40 F2.8 Pro. Does anyone know if a 52-62mm step up ring would work on the 62mm ring without vignetting, as the genuine Lee rings are around £20 a pop and a step up ring is only £2.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I would buy a 52mm adapter ring you may end up with vignetting if you push things forward.
 
I have tried every setting I can think of to try and replicate the accurate colours represented in picture one, although all I get are efforts like the others. Any advice please?

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dcash29 said:
I have tried every setting I can think of to try and replicate the accurate colours represented in picture one, although all I get are efforts like the others. Any advice please?

View attachment 65300 View attachment 65301 View attachment 65302 View attachment 65303 View attachment 65304
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Under what circumstances are you taking these shots, are you changing anything between them? And the first one is a jpg and the others raw? Do you have Art filter bracketing switched on? Have you reset the camera?
 
Have you set "Keep Warm tones" to OFF?
I'll post the exact menu sequence shortly.

Edit: Menu - G Keep Warm Colours.
 
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I don't think you can expect accurate colours SOOC unless you're willing to carefully fiddle with the camera settings for each and every image before you shoot. I'd be inclined to leave it on auto white balance to provide a baseline, use RAW image files only and then make the adjustments in post.

Just by eye, if 1 is accurate, 2 has a little too much yellow and green, 3 too much green and over-saturated, etc etc.
 
The first shot is SOOC Sony auto wb which matched the scene. The rest are from an em5mk2 that has been totally reset, the shots have had numerous settings changed to try and achieve the colour accuracy. Warm setting off/on. I will look at the raw/jpg comment this evening but I know that isn't the issue, as jpgs taken over the weekend are the same.

Edit: - Nawty in posting 7830 the files of the house and trees are jpg not Raw. Bracketing is off.
 
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Well didn't get very far with that. However this could be the last question regarding this actual camera?

Does anyone's EM5Mk2 or in fact any OMD model display the P mode in playback when you have shot in Auto mode?

Thanks
 
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Am thinking of selling my 75-300ii and 35-200 f2.8 and getting the 40-150 pro + TC instead

Good idea / bad idea ?
 
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