Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Hi
Have you tried the Hi res mode yet?

I absolutely have. Only found it to work well in a couple of situations. One worked exceptionally well. The other I ended up with some slightly odd artifacts (not from movement either).

It's not perfect, but when it works it's great. The detail is pretty mad from a "16mp" sensor.

This was one that worked well:
Helix Bridge & Marina Bay Sands by Dale Clutterbuck, on Flickr
 
I absolutely have. Only found it to work well in a couple of situations. One worked exceptionally well. The other I ended up with some slightly odd artifacts (not from movement either).

It's not perfect, but when it works it's great. The detail is pretty mad from a "16mp" sensor.

This was one that worked well:
Helix Bridge & Marina Bay Sands by Dale Clutterbuck, on Flickr

Now I really like that.thanks for sharing
 
A question for any OM-D 10 Mark ii users. I popped out at lunchtime to my local Jessops to have a play with their display model and noticed a strong flickering through the evf. Is this an issue or was it just picking up on the lighting in the store
 
A question for any OM-D 10 Mark ii users. I popped out at lunchtime to my local Jessops to have a play with their display model and noticed a strong flickering through the evf. Is this an issue or was it just picking up on the lighting in the store

Most likely flickering lights.
Unless someone has messed up the settings. People mess with strange things on display models.
 
I have noticed no flickering in the EVF of my Mk II.
 
No flickering in mine
 
There is a setting to reduce flicker but from memory it uses a bit more battery so is set to off as default.

But yes, it will be from the shop lights.
 
Question about Olympus Pro lenses, particularly the 12-40. The question is: is "Pro" really worth the money in terms of picture quality? I am currently using a quite old plastic Panny Lumix G Vario 14-42 on an EM5 II as a general purpose zoom which was the kit lens that came with a G3 years ago. TBH it is quite good and turns out reasonable photos but I keep wondering if I could do better but I am not sure if going up to the Olympus Pro is just GAS or would give a bit more edge to my photos?
 
Question about Olympus Pro lenses, particularly the 12-40. The question is: is "Pro" really worth the money in terms of picture quality? I am currently using a quite old plastic Panny Lumix G Vario 14-42 on an EM5 II as a general purpose zoom which was the kit lens that came with a G3 years ago. TBH it is quite good and turns out reasonable photos but I keep wondering if I could do better but I am not sure if going up to the Olympus Pro is just GAS or would give a bit more edge to my photos?
its a very good lens, certainly makes the most of the sensor, i sold all my primes in favour of keeping it. But i also have the small oly pancake zoom and think its very good for the money. yes the pro is better without a doubt but only you can say if the outlay is worth it
 
Question about Olympus Pro lenses, particularly the 12-40. The question is: is "Pro" really worth the money in terms of picture quality? I am currently using a quite old plastic Panny Lumix G Vario 14-42 on an EM5 II as a general purpose zoom which was the kit lens that came with a G3 years ago. TBH it is quite good and turns out reasonable photos but I keep wondering if I could do better but I am not sure if going up to the Olympus Pro is just GAS or would give a bit more edge to my photos?
I've not used the Panny 14-42mm but have used the Olly 14-42mm's (pancake and standard) and Panny 12-32mm pancake and there is a noticeable difference with these compared to the 12-40mm in terms of IQ. It's not just sharpness but the way it renders. Also the 12-40mm feels nicer to use, has a nicer and smoother zoom ring etc plus is weather resistant and obviously the constant f2.8 aperture. Are these worth the extra cash? Up to you (y)
 
Question about Olympus Pro lenses, particularly the 12-40. The question is: is "Pro" really worth the money in terms of picture quality? I am currently using a quite old plastic Panny Lumix G Vario 14-42 on an EM5 II as a general purpose zoom which was the kit lens that came with a G3 years ago. TBH it is quite good and turns out reasonable photos but I keep wondering if I could do better but I am not sure if going up to the Olympus Pro is just GAS or would give a bit more edge to my photos?
Yes.
 
Question about Olympus Pro lenses, particularly the 12-40. The question is: is "Pro" really worth the money in terms of picture quality? I am currently using a quite old plastic Panny Lumix G Vario 14-42 on an EM5 II as a general purpose zoom which was the kit lens that came with a G3 years ago. TBH it is quite good and turns out reasonable photos but I keep wondering if I could do better but I am not sure if going up to the Olympus Pro is just GAS or would give a bit more edge to my photos?

The 12-40 is great but not a pany user the Oly kit lenses are good. The 12-40 is much larger and heavier.

Standard zooms by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Not had the pro but have you also considered the 17 and 45 maybe as an alternative?
Yes I have thought about primes and I have a 20mm but for general "walk about" it's a lot easier to leave one zoom on the body than carry and swap lenses

The 12-40 is great but not a pany user the Oly kit lenses are good. The 12-40 is much larger and heavier.

Standard zooms by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Thanks Alf that's really useful, size and weight is a bit of a consideration, something to thing about there
 
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The underestimated 12-50 pros
f3.5 is half a stop shy of f2.8. Albeit at the wide end only.
Splash and dust proof.
Macro mode
Optional power zoom.
52mm filter thread.
Price just £160.00 (£129.00 Used)

Cons:
Not very compact (compared to the 14-42.)
Not the greatest IQ.
Doesn't have the word 'Pro' on it.
_________

http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2012/...e-lens-review-the-misunderstood-kit-zoom/amp/

The size difference matters

Gripped E-EM1 compared to a non gripped E-M5 by Alf Branch, on Flickr


1 & 5 comparison by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
A question for any OM-D 10 Mark ii users. I popped out at lunchtime to my local Jessops to have a play with their display model and noticed a strong flickering through the evf. Is this an issue or was it just picking up on the lighting in the store

Menu / cog / D / flicker reduction - auto. However you mentioned the J word.
 
Might be the lighting but the 12-40 looks sharper.

The 12-40 is sharper and it was on a tripod plus it had an ND grad meaning less PP shot with E-M1.
The 14-42 was handheld with E-M5I

Exif data can be seen on Flcikr
 
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I've been using Olympus for 2 years now, but still struggling with this: I turn the touchscreen on the back of the camera off and using the supermenu I select the middle focus rectangle, with the intention of keeping the focus anchored there. After a few shots, and without activating the touchscreen, somehow the focus rectangle starts to move around, possibly because of the pressure of my nose against the screen, even though when checking the touchscreen is still off. Can anyone explain how I can prevent this from happening?

I've had this problem on the E-M5, the E-M10II and the E-M1, so it's not a faulty camera; it's my lack of understanding of how this works I suspect.
 
A question for any OM-D 10 Mark ii users. I popped out at lunchtime to my local Jessops to have a play with their display model and noticed a strong flickering through the evf. Is this an issue or was it just picking up on the lighting in the store

No flickering on mine. I've used it in malls with artificial light and haven't noticed it there either.
 
Have you got 9 focus points selected ? If so, the camera will select what it thinks is the best focus point.
 
I've been using Olympus for 2 years now, but still struggling with this: I turn the touchscreen on the back of the camera off and using the supermenu I select the middle focus rectangle, with the intention of keeping the focus anchored there. After a few shots, and without activating the touchscreen, somehow the focus rectangle starts to move around, possibly because of the pressure of my nose against the screen, even though when checking the touchscreen is still off. Can anyone explain how I can prevent this from happening?

I've had this problem on the E-M5, the E-M10II and the E-M1, so it's not a faulty camera; it's my lack of understanding of how this works I suspect.
the four direction buttons will move the f.point, could you be knocking them?
 
I dont have such a problem since adding a ebay grip,
 
12-50mm currently £129 new at SRS until end of January. I had one at one point and regret selling it now. Quite underated, by some, in my opinion.

http://www.srsmicrosystems.co.uk/black-olympus-m-zuiko-digital-ed-12-50mm-f3-5-6-3-ez-lens.html

Its my standard lens.

Can't really have a direct comparison to any other lens as I almost always use it handheld.

But it always gives excellent results, I like the electro zoom, and the macro works very well.

Recommended for general use,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
The 12-50 is the only way I can use the EM5ii focus bracketing close up.

You need both Macro and AF in a lens.
 
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Have you got 9 focus points selected ? If so, the camera will select what it thinks is the best focus point.

I definitely only have the center focus point selected.

the four direction buttons will move the f.point, could you be knocking them?

I didn't think I was, but I will try to pay attention next time it happens. This could potentially explain what's been happening.

snap! i don't think its possible to disable ether, ive set my record button to re-centre the focus point (em-10 mk1)

That's a useful suggestion - I'll try to set this up as well.

Thanks for your comments!
 
I've been using Olympus for 2 years now, but still struggling with this: I turn the touchscreen on the back of the camera off and using the supermenu I select the middle focus rectangle, with the intention of keeping the focus anchored there. After a few shots, and without activating the touchscreen, somehow the focus rectangle starts to move around, possibly because of the pressure of my nose against the screen...
Don't rely on this but there's a veyt quick centering fix ... but I'm not sure about the details.
Something like hold 'display' for two seconds.
I can try it on my e-pL7 I supposed, but I don't get your problem any more and I don't know what I did to make it stop happening.
Is there a confused smiley? :confused: Oh yes, yes there is. :banana:
 
I've been using Olympus for 2 years now, but still struggling with this: I turn the touchscreen on the back of the camera off and using the supermenu I select the middle focus rectangle, with the intention of keeping the focus anchored there. After a few shots, and without activating the touchscreen, somehow the focus rectangle starts to move around, possibly because of the pressure of my nose against the screen, even though when checking the touchscreen is still off. Can anyone explain how I can prevent this from happening?

I've had this problem on the E-M5, the E-M10II and the E-M1, so it's not a faulty camera; it's my lack of understanding of how this works I suspect.

What program mode are you in? Plus have you gone through page 48/49 of the manual?

However I'd like to know why my EM5ii with the power set to on, will not return from the sleep mode after a given time without switching off/on, unless its because its set in the power saver mode?
 
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I've been using Olympus for 2 years now, but still struggling with this: I turn the touchscreen on the back of the camera off and using the supermenu I select the middle focus rectangle, with the intention of keeping the focus anchored there. After a few shots, and without activating the touchscreen, somehow the focus rectangle starts to move around, possibly because of the pressure of my nose against the screen, even though when checking the touchscreen is still off. Can anyone explain how I can prevent this from happening?

I've had this problem on the E-M5, the E-M10II and the E-M1, so it's not a faulty camera; it's my lack of understanding of how this works I suspect.

This has puzzled me too. I have found that the only way to make the centre point "stick" is to centre it either by use of the touch screen or by bringing up the target screen with the arrow buttons and centering using them. Any function button you have set to centre the focus point will centre it only until you turn off the camera. A bit of crazy programming IMHO.
 
You can also move the focus point with the dials, depending on how you have it set and given how easy it is to knock them it could be that.
 
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