Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

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Just bought a 72mm screw in folding ( rubber) lens hood . £9.99 delivered on e.bay fits a treat ..but I think I will sell the lens .. for the potential use from me the 40-150 R is good enough
Lens now advertised for sale on here and e.bay
 
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I also use a rubber folding hood on my 40-150 f2.8, I don't like the size of the original one, it makes the lens so bulky.
 
I also use a rubber folding hood on my 40-150 f2.8, I don't like the size of the original one, it makes the lens so bulky.

Just bought a 72mm screw in folding ( rubber) lens hood . £9.99 delivered on e.bay fits a treat ..but I think I will sell the lens .. for the potential use from me the 40-150 R is good enough
Lens now advertised for sale on here and e.bay

Can you point me towards one please? I like the sound of that price and rubber folding sounds great :)
 
Can you point me towards one please? I like the sound of that price and rubber folding sounds great :)
Got the lens up for sale at the moment bebop ,. If it hopefully sells this week you can have this one . .. as a freebie
 
thinking of doing a bit of astro photography , don't won't to spend to much money.Has anyone got any recommendations.Not sure what size of lens.Looking to capture stars and mountain scenery, and maybe the milky way.Using E-M1 Mark III.
 
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thinking of doing a bit of astro photography , don't won't to spend to much money.Has anyone got any recommendations.Not sure what size of lens.Looking to capture stars and mountain scenery, and maybe the milky way.Using E-M1 Mark III.
I use the brilliant Olympus 7-14mm F2.8 Pro.

Get a star tracker and you don't have to use ultrafast lenses.

17mm f1.8 is only £208 from E-Infinity and that's a good lens.

With Olympus lenses you shouldn't have to stop down to improve the image quality.
 
For anyone doubting the ruggedness of the OM-1, I recently spent couple of weeks in Western Mongolia during February.

I used a couple of OM-1's, one with a 12-40 f2.8 mk II, and one with a 40-150 f2.8.

Temperatures were regularly around minus 28 deg. C during the day, falling to minus 32 at night.

We were sleeping in Gers (tents) and the cameras and batteries performed flawlessly whilst exposed to these constant temperatures. I got quite adapt at using the camera with thick ski mitts on!

Here's one I took at an Ice Archery competition on a frozen river near the town of Olgii.

Moment of Release by Dave Kiddle, on Flickr
 
I use the brilliant Olympus 7-14mm F2.8 Pro.

Get a star tracker and you don't have to use ultrafast lenses.

17mm f1.8 is only £208 from E-Infinity and that's a good lens.

With Olympus lenses you shouldn't have to stop down to improve the image quality.
Do you think 17mm would be wide enough.?
 
My Pro service ran out long ago - I think I got it free when I bought the Em1iii. It was a great service which I didn't think was still available.

I do find OM responsive to repair issues. I decided to ask about a possible repair to the lens hood on my 40-150 f/2.8 lens, on the off-chance it was a lot cheaper than buying new. It turns out it will cost £44.01 - where a new one is £49.99, so that was a bit disappointing. I did look at the 3rd party alternatives when I asked on here before. One of the compatibles was the Canon 180 macro lens hood. Well I have that one and it doesn't fit well at all, so I am still on the fence. I might try and fix mine. At the moment it is held together with sellotape and the ball bearings are still in there... I think!! I don't think I have anything to lose by trying.
..... I replaced my OM lens hood after it spilt its tiny ball bearings onto a beach with a Fotodiox C-ET-78 II. Perfect and secure standard twist-n-lock fit and I bought it from Amazon for £14.99 including shipping. All the main retailers like WEX etc charge over 40 squid!!

However, because of wanting a fast in-out hood fitting to carry this rig in one of my Lowpro shoulder bags, I bought a replacement OM hood and keep the Fotodiox as spare.

With its OM hood slid back on the 40-150mm F/2.8 Pro + OM-1 + OM Battery Grip, it's a purrfect fit in the Lowpro Toploader Pro 70 AW II which I had originally bought for my OM E-M1X + lens. It's my primary rig for railways photography.
 
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OM Systems should really sell a hood repair kit with the ball bearings and springs, as it seems every singe lens suffers from a self destructing hood at some point or other in it's lifetime. Mine suffered the same fate some years ago. I managed to find all the ball bearing but was missing one spring, so although the hood does retract and lock in the extended position, it's a bit wonky on one side, but I refuse to pay over £40 for a £0.05 brass spring. I've since put black insulation tape around the joint between the main body of the hood and the rear section that detaches itself from the rear hood just it make sure it never comes apart again.
 
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OM Systems should really sell a hood repair kit with the ball bearings and springs, as it seems every singe lens suffers from a self destructing hood at some point or other in it's lifetime.
.... Having closely examined mine after it dismantled itself following a glancing knock, I do not think a user-friendly repair kit would be even remotely possible. And, if possible, it would be complicated and cost far too much money.

There have been a lot of cases of the OM hood failing but I don't know if they have revised the design. My new OM hood is certainly standing up to very regular use and the slide feature is extremely useful. But I am very mindful of its vulnerability and take extra care.

The way I knocked the original hood and broke its balls out was when I bent down with my camera on a strap. I never use standard camera straps but did so that day - Never again!
 
Why not Robin, it's only 3 or 4 (can't remember the exact amount) ball bearings and brass springs. It really isn't that difficult to repair if you have the parts. The larger plastic rear section and internal bayonet ring part rarely get damaged and certainly don't get lost as they are so big (unless you drop it off a cliff or down a drain etc). There's plenty of tutorials on line to help if you get stuck. When mine self destructed, like I say I found everything except one spring, and even without looking on line, it only took me a few mins to understand how it all went together, and with the help of the aforementioned tape, has continued to work for the last 6 years or so since it self destructed.

Here's a good repair tutorial:

 
red kite
kite flight by jeff cohen, on Flickr
I am always pleased to see the Red Kites when they fly over, so thanks for sharing :)

Though can I ask, is this a sky replacement? The reason I ask is that I can see halo'ing as well as some chromatic aberration on the upper most wing edge :thinking:
 
Why not Robin, it's only 3 or 4 (can't remember the exact amount) ball bearings and brass springs. It really isn't that difficult to repair if you have the parts. The larger plastic rear section and internal bayonet ring part rarely get damaged and certainly don't get lost as they are so big (unless you drop it off a cliff or down a drain etc). There's plenty of tutorials on line to help if you get stuck. When mine self destructed, like I say I found everything except one spring, and even without looking on line, it only took me a few mins to understand how it all went together, and with the help of the aforementioned tape, has continued to work for the last 6 years or so since it self destructed.

Here's a good repair tutorial:

I shall have a look. I did look on Youtube and couldn't find anything. Jeff has kindly offered me his folding hood, but I may still have a go at fixing it, just to see if I can.

Like you @RedRobin , I do like the way the slide back mechanism makes it so compact. I'm pretty sure the 40C temperature in Botswana affected the glue. If I did knock it, it must have been a gentle well aimed knock. I was in a jeep at the time, so it is possible not all the bearings are there. It's still sellotaped at the moment, which managed to work for the rest of my trip, thankfully.
 
the hoods all boxed up ready babs .it will be in the post as soon as I go near a p.o
 
I am always pleased to see the Red Kites when they fly over, so thanks for sharing :)

Though can I ask, is this a sky replacement? The reason I ask is that I can see halo'ing as well as some chromatic aberration on the upper most wing edge :thinking:
no it was just a tad underexposed forgot to do exp comp so had to adjust shadows .. not been out for a week or so due to health issues so just rushing stuff through
 
Another from Mongolia.

Direct Hit! by Dave Kiddle, on Flickr
.... This set of your trip to Mongolia are epic! :clap::clap::clap:

But it's a pity you are not sharing your camera info plus settings etc (Flickr) - I think that some of us in this thread would find such info helpful. But each to their own.
 
.... This set of your trip to Mongolia are epic! :clap::clap::clap:

But it's a pity you are not sharing your camera info plus settings etc (Flickr) - I think that some of us in this thread would find such info helpful. But each to their own.
As far as I'm aware, my settings are shared. I can see them in the phone app and in a web browser. Perhaps you need to be logged in, or perhaps it's just me that can see them?

Edit: I've amended so the settings should be visible.
 
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As far as I'm aware, my settings are shared. I can see them in the phone app and in a web browser. Perhaps you need to be logged in, or perhaps it's just me that can see them?

Edit: I've amended so the settings should be visible.
.... Cheers!

I am always logged in whenever I visit Flickr. Your camera settings are now displayed and satisfying my curiosity. Wide open apertures like F/2.8 still have great Depth of Focus Field, eh? And 1/2000s was fast enough to freeze the projectiles.
 
.... Cheers!

I am always logged in whenever I visit Flickr. Your camera settings are now displayed and satisfying my curiosity. Wide open apertures like F/2.8 still have great Depth of Focus Field, eh? And 1/2000s was fast enough to freeze the projectiles.
Although depth of field not quite enough in the second shot as the guys stood further away behind the arrow hitting the balls are slightly soft!
 
Has anyone ever gone from the 12-40 F2.8 Pro MK 1 to the newer MK2. I only ask as I have a copy of the MK1 that I bought new years ago with my then new OMD EM1 (MK1), which to fair I haven't used in a number of years as I tend to have the 12-100 on the OM-1 as my walkabout lens. But, to save size and weight when I went to NYC late last year, I only took the 12-40.

I've only recently started looking at the video's taken with the lens, and I've noticed that using the inbuilt microphones, you can really hear the AF motors racking in an out (something I've never noticed with my 12-100 F4 Pro). Does anyone know if the MK II versions AF motors are any quieter. Of course I usually plug in my external mic which helps a lot, but when inside, I usually just used the inbuilt mics.
 
Although depth of field not quite enough in the second shot as the guys stood further away behind the arrow hitting the balls are slightly soft!
.... If that bothered me I would have closed down the aperture to say F/5.6 and increased the ISO - Both very easily done on the fly while in the viewfinder if you shoot Manual-mode.
 
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