Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

An ambitious Magpie - Em5 + 40-150, shot through a window that badly needs de-misting

Ambitious Magpie by K G, on Flickr

First time I've had them in the garden [there was a pair of them, joy!!] - them and the crows tend to stay out, as they're a bit slow for our cats in a tight-ish garden, also they're too big for the feeders .... or so i thought!

Sucess!

Braisin Magpie by K G, on Flickr
 
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Donnie said:
The artisan gets some awful reviews otherwise I would have swapped out the samyang for the extra low light
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Cagey75 said:
I watched a couple that seemed to recommend it, considering the price
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Considering the price is the key phrase. A good second hand samyang is in the same ballpark pricewise but quality wise its a different beast completely.
 
Quick question if i may folks -
When doing long exposures of 60 seconds plus do i need a remote shutter or can i use live bulb mode instead?
 
damianmkv said:
i loved the Samyang fisheye - i found it very sharp, easy to use and versatile. Some of mine are below


adrenaline alley by damianmkv, on Flickr


on the look out by damianmkv, on Flickr


big air by damianmkv, on Flickr


snorkelling in sardinia by damianmkv, on Flickr


we're all ears by damianmkv, on Flickr
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Looks like a fun lens to use, I just don't know if I would make much use of it. I tend to enjoy shooting close up more than wide angle, but I'm always open to try something fresh. Love the last image, did you find it easy to 'de-fish' in post?
 
A very bare looking Monsal Valley

P1254877 by TDG-77, on Flickr


Monsal Tunnel, hand held at 0.4s. Gotta love Olly IBIS ;)

P1254899 by TDG-77, on Flickr
 
OK, can anyone fathom this out? When I post my Nikon shots to this forum my pics always look over sharpened compared to what they do on my original files and on Flickr, yet my Olympus files look softer than they do on my computer and on Flickr. Both are exported from Lightroom using the same settings, and both are posted on here using the BBcode from Flickr. It's baffling me :confused:
 
snerkler said:
OK, can anyone fathom this out? When I post my Nikon shots to this forum my pics always look over sharpened compared to what they do on my original files and on Flickr, yet my Olympus files look softer than they do on my computer and on Flickr. Both are exported from Lightroom using the same settings, and both are posted on here using the BBcode from Flickr. It's baffling me :confused:
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That is strange, because comparing your images on thread, to on Flickr here, it appears to me as though the forum has applied some form of sharpening, I find similar issues when sharing here. Have done through the years with various cameras/lenses
 
damianmkv said:
If you have the horizon in the middle, you don’t need to de-fish
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Are you saying that wheat field image isn't corrected? wow ... that intrigues me more, I've never used a fish-eye, because I always felt I would rarely use it because of the OTT distortion
 
It was taken a long time back but I'm pretty sure it wasn't corrected. The FE is really wide so you need to be careful of your feet..or even your hands as they can be in shot. From memory, I think I leaned forward and took this shot.
 
Can anyone help me.
Is there an Olympus codec (for .ORF files) for 64 bit PCs running Windows 10 that works. I've down loaded the 64 bit raw codec from the Olympus site, but although it appears to install OK it just doesn't work.
 
Pag said:
Can anyone help me.
Is there an Olympus codec (for .ORF files) for 64 bit PCs running Windows 10 that works. I've down loaded the 64 bit raw codec from the Olympus site, but although it appears to install OK it just doesn't work.
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What PP software do you use? Are you looking to view the RAW files before processing? I use Faststone image viewer and it'll display the RAW files no problem: http://www.faststone.org/
 
Not the sharpest image in the world but I went out the other night to test out the IBIS on my em1ii. This church was not lit up at all and I couldnt actually see it in my viewfinder so I zoomed out all the way,pointed in the general direction ,and pressed the shutter release. Aperture priority and f2.8, the exposure took 8 seconds, hand held. First time Ive hand held any camera for that length of time and I was pleasantly surprised that I could actually make out the subject!
Not something I would recomend for sharp images but hey.....twas a fun experiment.


E489A2A7-93D9-485C-89B5-37BA7DF508D7.jpeg
 
Simplythebeast said:
Not the sharpest image in the world but I went out the other night to test out the IBIS on my em1ii. This church was not lit up at all and I couldnt actually see it in my viewfinder so I zoomed out all the way,pointed in the general direction ,and pressed the shutter release. Aperture priority and f2.8, the exposure took 8 seconds, hand held. First time Ive hand held any camera for that length of time and I was pleasantly surprised that I could actually make out the subject!
Not something I would recomend for sharp images but hey.....twas a fun experiment.


View attachment 119162
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Handheld 8s second exposure that can still be recognised what the subject is must be a record Imo ;)
 
@Cagey75 They open fine in PSE and Olympus viewer it's just rather annoying that I can't open them in the windows viewer, or see what I' looking at prior to PP.
 
Simplythebeast said:
Not the sharpest image in the world but I went out the other night to test out the IBIS on my em1ii. This church was not lit up at all and I couldnt actually see it in my viewfinder so I zoomed out all the way,pointed in the general direction ,and pressed the shutter release. Aperture priority and f2.8, the exposure took 8 seconds, hand held. First time Ive hand held any camera for that length of time and I was pleasantly surprised that I could actually make out the subject!
Not something I would recomend for sharp images but hey.....twas a fun experiment.


View attachment 119162
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Even with IBIS an 8 second exposure can suffer from subject movement.
I photographed the spire of Salisbury cathedral at night on a tripod. My OM 2 on aperture priority took a 15 minute exposure. The TTL metering was reading the exposure the off the film. So any changes in brightness 'during' the shot are taken onto consideration. My picture was correctly exposed. The year was 1980.
The tip of the 123 meter cathedral spire sways slightly in the breeze. So yes, subject movement can be a problem in these cases.
 
Has anyone compared an Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm 1:4.0-5.6 R against a Panasonic Lumix G Vario 45-150mm f/4-5.6 ASPH. MEGA O.I.S. ?
 
stupar said:
Quick question if i may folks -
When doing long exposures of 60 seconds plus do i need a remote shutter or can i use live bulb mode instead?
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You should use a remote of some sort as touching the camera will lead to loss of imnage quaility.

A cheap cable release will do the job but a Hahnel model is decent quality. I prefer Live time to live bulb.
 
alfbranch said:
You should use a remote of some sort as touching the camera will lead to loss of imnage quaility.
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You can of course use the timer but it's not the best option. I have had to use it in the past though when I've forgotten my shutter release ;)

A cheap cable release will do the job but a Hahnel model is decent quality. I prefer Live time to live bulb.
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I use one of these, great remote release Imo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004DO19M2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep forgetting about live time, is that where you see the image 'developing' in real time? I need to look into that live composite too.
 
snerkler said:
You can of course use the timer but it's not the best option. I have had to use it in the past though when I've forgotten my shutter release ;)


I use one of these, great remote release Imo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004DO19M2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep forgetting about live time, is that where you see the image 'developing' in real time? I need to look into that live composite too.
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The self timer is fine for set shutter speed but not more than 60 seconds.

I have a similar cable release.
 
Cheers guys!
Im liking the look of that wireless remote in the above Amazon lonk so will check it out further.
 
SsSsSsSsSnake said:
Got an Oly12-40 coming from Hdew any day for £459.
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Nice price! I fancy that lens myself

One from a brief outing yesterday [before it started bucketing down] Em5 + 40-150

The Magpie & the Egret by K G, on Flickr

I really need a bigger lens for along the river to get better detail, but I do like more of a 'scene' too. The tree makes this one for me really, and the Egret isn't oft spotted, there's usually a couple of grey Herons in that area.
 
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Pag said:
Can anyone help me.
Is there an Olympus codec (for .ORF files) for 64 bit PCs running Windows 10 that works. I've down loaded the 64 bit raw codec from the Olympus site, but although it appears to install OK it just doesn't work.
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Microsoft released a codec pack for earlier versions of Windows that read .ORF files from some Olympus cameras, this was then built in to Windows 10 but hasn't been updated.
My E-PL5 files show as thumbnails in Windows 10 but my E-M10 and E-M10 Mkii don't

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/download/details.aspx?id=26829
Olympus: C-7070 Wide Zoom, C-8080 Wide Zoom, E-1, E-3, E-10, E-20, E-30, E-420, E-450, E-520, E-600, E-620, EVOLT E-300, EVOLT E-330, EVOLT E-400, EVOLT E-410, EVOLT E-500, EVOLT E-510, .
OM-D E-M5, PEN E-P1, PEN E-P2, PEN-P3, PEN E-PL1, PEN E-PL2, PEN E-PL3, PEN E-PL1s, PEN E-PL5, PEN E-PM1, PEN E-PM2, XZ-1, XZ-2, XZ-10

The Olympus codec from their site seems to be completely useless.

FastPictureViewer is recommended elsewhere but I've never used it - it costs $10 after the trial expires.
http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46914&highlight=codec
 
anyone use a grip on their EM10 I or ii, seem to be 2, the Oly and Fotodiox .

if I buy the Fotodiox 1from amazon.com its about £25 cheaper than from amazon uk,inc postage
 
Yes thanks,i was aware of the difference.thereason i mentioned both was because of similar size so i could gauge users experience with one.
Do you use only primes and smaller zooms as im only considering because if the 12-40 ,?
 
SsSsSsSsSnake said:
Do you use only primes and smaller zooms as im only considering because if the 12-40 ,?
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Yup the largest lens I have is the plastic 40-150mm Olympus. I've steered clear of the 12-40 because it's so much larger and heavier than my 17,25, 45 primes and 14-42mm zoom. I don't find using a prime very restrictive though I thought it might be when I started to buy them.

The reason I'm using M43 is to keep the kit small and the reason I'm on the E-M10 is because it's the smallest one with an EVF that I can afford (the Pen-F is too dear) so no grip for me - esp. not at Olympus's prices! :eek:
 
dcash29 said:
Has anyone compared an Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm 1:4.0-5.6 R against a Panasonic Lumix G Vario 45-150mm f/4-5.6 ASPH. MEGA O.I.S. ?
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Yes, I have both and they are both very good for the price. The Panasonic has a more solid build (metal mount, less plastic) than the Olympus (all plastic) but the Olympus is lighter. My copy of the Panasonic sometimes fails to acquire focus, something that has not happened to me with the Olympus (I use primarily Olympus bodies). You can't really go wrong with either of these IMO.
 
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