That could work if I used manual
I normally choose the smallest focus point I can, so I choose where the camera is focusing. I only go to 9 for moving things. Not that that's a solution for you. It does in your example appear to be choosing a good point to focus on though.
Found this little chap on a walk last night. So glad I had my camera on me and thankful for the articulated screen and the ability to touch it, for focus and shutter. 1/50s f/2.8 ISO 800
Just as an example.
If I leave it on a spot I can focus on Wall-E's eye. If I used all points it would probably hit the tractor, but still only one focus point even though I have all selected.
I could be wrong but I thought if you had 9 selected it will always choose the point that is nearest. The camera won't know what your intention is. It can only focus in one plane, so if it shows more squares or one square, it is still only the same plane in focus. Choose one point and then you are in control of where it is focusing.
Edit: You could use the aperture control to increase the depth of field, getting more in focus at a time.
That pic was a bad example.
Ok, the side of a duck. If all points are chosen, it will only use one point. Not a cluster of points (which is what I am after)
In your duck example the camera will choose the closest/most contrasty part of the duck and set focus on that - lots of the other feathers will also be in the same plane of focus and will be sharp too - depending on the focal length, angle and aperture.
The camera can only focus in one plane so while it would be handy to know how much of the scene is sharp by showing the other points also in focus it won't affect the actual result. The camera will still be using that single point to determine the distance to set.
If you select a single point or smaller area on the touch screen or whatever than you reducing the camera's ability to pick the "best" focus point but it will still be using the "best" point in the group.
Are the other cameras you've used using all the focus points and then choosing the best focal plain to get the most points in focus?
If you had peaking on then it would draw a highlight around all the sharp contrast focused parts of the image. You do need to be in a manual or S-AF+MF with the shutter half pressed to get the benefit of it.
I've (cough) just discovered that you can enable both Magnify and Peaking as MF Assists in the cog menu which may come in handy.
My small number of missed focus shots are usually because I've selected a single point and wandered slightly off the subject so the camera has focused something behind or in front really sharply
Even if I was taking a photo of a wall straight on only one point will come up. I thought there might be an option were a cluster of focus points show.
I just pulled the trigger on Olympus M.ZUIKO 60mm f/2.8 Macro. Took this earlier at lunchtime with the kit lens and a Raynox.
Hi Fly by Pete Banks, on Flickr
I don’t think so, the only time I’ve ever seen this is with compact cameras but I’ve never figured out why, or why it would benefit anyone. As AMC there is only one plane of critical focus so why show more than one point?
A few rose close-ups from Anglesey Abbey...
And a few wider angles too.
The close ups were all taken with the 60mm macro, the wider ones a combination of the 25mm 1.8 and the 12-40.
Your going to love the 60mm
Thanks. I'm getting two separate exposures and then two images recorded on the card. Since posting, I've been in touch with the retailer who has been very helpful. They asked me to carry out a few tests using full auto mode which I've now done - of the 18/20 photos taken in the garden 5 resulted in "double images" & a strange shutter action which I find difficult to describe. They believe the shutter mechanism is probably faulty and have asked me to return the camera for replacement.
Agreed - I don't think you can do what you want with the E-M10 Mkii (or the Mki or the E-PL5 for that matter).
I can see how it could be useful. In the tractor picture, if the camera chose WALL-E but I also wanted to be sure that JOHN was sharp it would be handy if that was simply indicated and I could adjust aperture until "enough" of the scene was sharp.
Using Focus Peaking you could achieve the same thing using a manual focus mode but it would be handy to know "everything" or "most things" were in focus with a simple auto focus too.
I came from compacts and a Pentax K100d with 11 focus points so I've never had the function to play with.
Ahh but you’re confusing depth of field with critical focus. Even in a landscape there’s only one plane of critical sharpness and everything else is acceptably sharp. I want the focus point to show me the focus not DOF. In situations like you’re referring to it would be handy if you could have a feature like Sony’s DMF where it showed you focus peaking straight after acquiring AF.
Urm, Honey, I shrunk the macro kit!
P6158806 by Pete Banks, on Flickr
P6158807 by Pete Banks, on Flickr
I loved that lens, the 150 2.8 But I never really missed it!! weighs a ruddy tonne! Also the OS on mine failed after about 2 years, just when warranty was up obviously .... ended up selling it as a non OS, still got £300 for it. The 60mm Oly is a sexy little thing, really want one myself
Looks like a 105 to me
i never really got on with the O60 - bit slow to focus. I had it for 6 months before selling it
AH!! you are correct! I saw 150 when I glanced at it first, just getting coffee now ...
The 150 was a fair bit bigger, weighed over 1KG on it's own. I adapted it to Fuji before selling, would have been sweet on the G80. But like I say, I don't miss that weight, especially for macro.
For macro you want to use MF no matter the lens really, how was the AF for general shooting?
Slower than a typical m43 lens IIRC. Putting it into context, it’s not “slow”....on par with APS-C I guess..
I bought a Sigma 60mm 2.8 to use mostly with my Raynox 250 for a cheap macro set up, but it's not 1:1, it's more like 1:1.5, which is ok, but I'm screwing the raynox onto a step down ring instead of clipping it on. Clipping would be better for quick switch to general shooting when needed [y'know something photo-worthy always happens right near you as soon as you stick macro rings or filters on!!] - I guess I could get a step up ring that the clips will attach to. Also you can stack Raynox with rings too, a 150 on top would see me achieve 1:1 but also decrease the min focus distance. The sigma is incredibly sharp, it's right up there with the best in M43 and was cheap as chips so I should give it more time.
First proper play with Pro-Capture today.
P6150045 by electric.mike, on Flickr
P6150159 by electric.mike, on Flickr
Not any more now we have focus bracketing! It needs the AF mechanism. Throw away all your MF macro gear!
I really like the ‘pose’ in the second one - how much of a crop is it?
You appear to be getting some great results with the 40-150 and t/c.
Thanks, about 15% off the right hand side
Why would I do that? MF is still much more reliable, a slight breeze is like a hurricane at macro level, in a split second during your bracketing you may miss the ideal bug pose, I won't! MF is so easy [with practice at least] that it will never fade when it comes to extreme macro.
Now the problem is that all my camera bags are too big for my kit............... Another bag hunt to begin. When will I ever find the perfect bag
Same issue here, I'm using 2 of my old FF gear bags as storage. I got a cheap messenger type back on Amazon for £30 that does for out and about, but since I got the 100-300 I can't squeeze all my M43 gear in, so my search continues too
A fly hanging on a plant.
1/200 • f/9.0 • 60.0 mm • ISO 400
OLYMPUS CORPORATION E-M1MarkII
OLYMPUS M.60mm F2.8 Macro
Hanging on by Ajophotog, on ipernity
A Lucerne Bug
1/200 • f/9.0 • 60.0 mm • ISO 200
OLYMPUS CORPORATION E-M1MarkII
OLYMPUS M.60mm F2.8 Macro
Adelphocoris lineolatus - Lucerne Bug by Ajophotog, on ipernity
Nicely done, what flash set up are you using?
I'm just pointing out that AF lenses have suddenly become much more useful now. As focus bracketing offers results that are otherwise difficult or impossible.
Its started raining so just got a few from under the balcony, EM10MK11-60MM Macro
Not many bugs about.
A serious question,there are a few users on here that have had the Panasonic bodies /lenses but are now using Olympus s bodies and pano lenses ,are the Olympus bodies better or am I missing something ,if I did buy one it would be along the lines of a om1-mk1 or Om10 mkii ,I mainly shoot wildlife with a g85 and pano 100-400
Or would I be better expanding lenses .or just holding fire till the om.1mkii or G9 drop in price
No idea why people would switch unless it's for the em1 mkII tbh. That camera has phenomenal IBIS, the best in all of M43. Other than that it's down to personal preference for the design, layout ... Oly cameras are better looking, but I don't like their menu system at all. I had the em5 mk1 and after buying the G80 the difference was chalk and cheese. Pany's system is just so much easier to get to grips with. I was pondering on the Em1 or the Em5 mkII, I had bought the em5 as a tester to see how I got along with it. I did really like it but those menus .... eurgh. I often wish the G80 had a plain tilt LCD instead of articulating, and I have found the build quality not as tough as it could be [like that piece of hinge covering falling of on mine recently] but other than that I can't think of much to complain about with this camera. If I was upgrading it would be to a G9 or the Em1 mkII, but I really don't see them worth current prices over the likes of the G85. The gap shouldn't be so wide.
I'd upgrade my G80 for an EM1 mk2 if I had the money.
I like the look and feel of it.
Doubt I'd take better pictures though, so lenses would make more sense for me tbh.
Panasonic are much better for video imo, if that's your thing.
I will get a G9 or EM1 Mkii when they come down in price.