Pity the fool who gets the camera with no door at all
After many attempts over the years i tried BBF again (sort of) i used the lens FN button, must admit it felt ok.
P1010161 by electric.mike, on Flickr
P1010144 by electric.mike, on Flickr
P1010070 by electric.mike, on Flickr
A Couple of my test shots for my birds in flight settings.
Seems focusing and metering are ok, just have to keep them in the middle.
Sorry about the background
Pen-f with 40-150 plastic fantastic. Shutter speed was 1600, just need a bit more light maybe
P8090046 by Pete Banks, on Flickr
P8090097a by Pete Banks, on Flickr
I will be putting these settings in later .worth a try anyway
Some settings tweaks, so a quick session at the local park. No ducks and gees able to fly with all the family's stuffing them with food.
Found some gulls instead.
Flying Practice 1 by Pete Banks, on Flickr
Flying Practice 2 by Pete Banks, on Flickr
Flying Practice 4 by Pete Banks, on Flickr
Some tweaks are, turn off image review in your viewfinder and use the electronic shutter.
put them in now ,have to wait till the weekend for a proper test .. it certainly makes canikons menus look easy peasy though.
A new twist or perhaps shock would be a better term to use under the circumstances to my new EM1 and 12-40 purchase
Once I regained some enthusiasm and knowing I have 35 days to return for a full refund I undertook further extensive tests.
Thanks to @AMcUK for suggesting a website that gave suggested settings to use, read through and something called "anti shock" caught my attention.
By this time I had tested the 12-40 on my Panasonic GX80 and found it as expected to be flawless, so it was back to the body as the culprit...……………..
TBC, its breakfast time and will update this gripping (or not) saga shortly
Hopefully it'll be worth the wait ( and the bacon butty ). When I had the same combo, it was great
I know when I initially switched , my thoughts were what have I done ,but it gradually falls into place and you realise how complex these babies really are
Shutter shock, the bane of M4/3 for some reason. I had it really bad on an EM5-II, sent it back for a replacement and the second one was fine. However, I just use antishock mode now as a matter of course, I can't see any downsides to using it so why run the risk
After a very boring breakfast, pot of tea and porridge its back to the saga
Further investigations told of shutter shock, something I was unfamiliar with despite using APS-C mirrorless for roughly four years.
My readings told of firmware updates and settings needing to be changed, got even more confusing when what seemed like a deck of cards became involved (diamonds, hearts, what is that all about?)
Anyway as the candle burnt down it became clear that I had probably stumbled across the cause of my initial disappointment, but was this really the answer?
Final part of the trilogy coming soon, need to nip up the shops for a few bits.
I'm on the edge of my seat
What are your settings for antishock mode. I'm assuming you have to choose the drive mode which has the little diamond shape next to it?
I'd say be careful you don't fall off, but you'll be fine, you've got IBIS
most excitement I've had all week if I'm honest...
as some may know I have recently started playing with manual focus lenses and getting quite a collection now plus adaptors ,heres the first test shot from a nikon nikkor 50mm f1.4 lens ,very pleased with this think its a keeper camera om10-mkii
pen pot by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
Of all the focal lengths to adapt, I always think 50mm makes more sense than most. You end up with something akin to a 100mm f/2.8 FF equivalent in terms of results which is quite a desirable length and still quite fast. Adapting things like 28mm 2.8's etc never had the same appeal.
More testing of the lens FN button for focus
P1010153 by electric.mike, on Flickr
Right then, here we go with the series finale as they like to call it now.
All settings updated for full anti shock protection, battery charged and memory card formatted, also auto iso set with max of 800.
Photos taken all at under 1/320, mostly around the 20mm mark at f5.6, this was giving on average 1/100
Ibis on and working, so my shooting parameters well within what even I can mange handheld.
The exciting test subjects that I now know so well include, hose reel, outside light, garden tap, writing on compost bag and concrete bird bath.
With mounting excitement and hands shaking with trepidation its back to the computer with screen specific glasses on.
The moment of truth awaits and (insert big drum roll, actually music provided by Nightwish) the shocking truth is...……….
These results are not acceptable from what was their top of the range camera and pro standard lens
I can obtain better results with my anti shock corrected Panasonic GX80 with the same lens attached, so can only assume later Olympus models have also improved in this area.
Yes results were considerably better than I achieved before the anti shock firmware installation and settings change, but nowhere near consistent enough
Thanks for reading, all that needs to be done now is get it packed up and head to John Lewis for a refund
Epilogue as seen on many a Quinn Martin production
I am still happy with the m4/3 format, getting some pleasing results from my existing kit and will continue using it
Any further purchases will have to be thoroughly researched for this shutter shock issue which to be honest is completely unacceptable.
Yes, antishock is the drive mode with the little diamond, you can set it for single shot or continuous (although not sure you can set it to continuous high from memory). There's also the drive modes with the heart shapes which are full electronic so will also be antishock. However, as it's full electronic curtains you have the issue of the jello effect with moving subjects/if you pan.
It was set with the single shot diamond in drive mode and set at 0 in Camera 2 or was it 1, whatever as per instructions
Silent mode also produces the same anti shock effect, full electronic so negating the use of the troublesome mechanical shutter
Do you leave the time for anti-shock at 0?
A few gull shots done the same way.
P1010102 by electric.mike, on Flickr
P1010100 by electric.mike, on Flickr
P1010099 by electric.mike, on Flickr
I do yes, I want the camera to respond instantly to my input
I get the x2 to 100mm bit but I I don’t understand where your then doubling up the aperture to f2.8 as far as I’m aware that stays static at f1.4 . To apply a doubling up of apertures would turn m4/3 zoom lenses of f5.6 into f11 and that simply doesn’t happen
I don't mean turns into anything, I just meant appearance in terms of depth of field rather than exposure.
i.e. focusing on an object 10 feet away with a 50mm 1.4 wide open on an m4/3 camera will give you a very similar look to doing the same with a 100mm 2.8 wide open on a full frame camera also focusing to 10 feet.
Refund obtained, the new settings certainly had a positive effect, can imagine how bad it was before the problem was known about.
Did think about keeping it, but know I would always be checking to make sure the shock effect wasn't affecting the photos.
Are later models similarly affected and in need of the anti shock prevention settings?
Never seen this problem before, certainly not on my Pen-f or a mates EMD1 Mk II
Shutter shock can plague all cameras that use mechanical shutters, some more than others. From reading around m4/3 does seem to be more prone to it than DSLR's and other mirrorless on the whole, although there are certain models of DSLR for example that are also known to be very prone to shutter shock. As for the exact reasons that this might be I'm not sure. With DSLR you also get the added problem of mirror slap which can give a similar result. For the most part it's unnoticeable, but there is a reason why landscape togs for example like to us mirror up mode and/or electronic first curtain.
I don't believe the EM1 is anymore prone to shutter shock than any other M4/3 camera tbh, I've certainly not noticed it with mine. I did have an EM5-II with very noticeably shutter shock (which is a later model than the EM1) which went back and the next one was fine. However, as I've also mentioned earlier after an initial hesitation (was convinced there'd be some negative with using anti shock) I finally decided to use anti-shock all the time, 'just in case'
I've got an E-M1 MkI and I've never noticed any shutter shock. If anything I'm always amazed how consistently sharp my hand-held shots are (assuming they are in focus) compared to using Canon full frame. I think you may just have had a faulty body. I would have been tempted to send it off to Olympus technical support as they might have been able to fix it under warranty or give you a new camera. Olympus support are pretty good at sorting things out: recently the hood of my out-of-warranty 40-150 f/2.8 disintegrated (a lot of the older ones do apparently) and they replaced it for free.
I always used mirror lock up when taking landscapes with my 5D MkII mounted on a tripod using a remote shutter release.
Never noticed this problem with any of my Fuji's and doesn't seem to show up in my daughters EM5 ii
Seems very strange why it should be worse in different examples of the same model, maybe slightly different tolerances?
Definitely noticeable in the EM1 I have just returned, glad for you it appears ok in your camera.
Panasonic seem to have found a cure and been reading that Olympus have mounted the sensor on some form of shock absorbers in the EM1 ii
Thanks for everyone here for bearing with me and offering up assistance, at least it wasn't a costly mistake apart from some time and a gallon of petrol
Unfortunately there's the odd duff example of any model, and it just seems like you had a rare duff EM1 I'm cursed with cameras, I've had a duff Sony A77, Duff EM5-II, Duff Nikon D750 (after Nikon got their hands on it), and Duff Nikon D850
Happens with all manner of things, does sound like you have had more than your fair share of wrong'uns.
Only bought it because it was a good deal, no great yearning for that particular model and to be honest disliked the menu system (apart from the super control panel)
Onwards and upwards, happy with the GX85 and 12-32 plus the little primes, no doubt something else will tickle my fancy at some stage or the other.
New task for today was tracking birds in flight. Using the 75-300, at 300 setting only, moving across the field of view.
Had to get a few shots before the heavens opened and the light got too bad.
Also remembered I had an old red dot sight from a paintball gun many years ago, quickly made a hotshoe mount, and found it's great for tracking.
scope by Pete Banks, on Flickr
Climbing by Pete Banks, on Flickr
Gliding by Pete Banks, on Flickr
Stop Thief!! by Pete Banks, on Flickr
Talking of the 75-300.
I wondered if it would be sharp enough for portraits.
75-300 portrait test by Terence Rees, on Flickr
And at 300mm
Face test @ 300mm (600mm EFL) by Terence Rees, on Flickr
I just found you can get these dot sights with hotshoe mounts on a slow boat from the bay. Big saving over the official Olympus ones.
If you guys want to try one.
Got that marked off on watch
I've not checked in for a couple of days and am amazed at how busy this thread is
I just wanted to say that I prefer using my Pen F to my Em5ii so I don't think it is just about number of pixels and the big knob on the front. It is a personal thing, but I find it much easier to quickly set the C modes to be what I want rather than the MysSet options. I really like having exposure compensation so readily available, even though I'm usually shooting in Manual - I can leave it on Auto ISO. Perhaps I'm lazy! It seems to fire up quicker too from sleep mode.
Having shot only RAW for years, I've gone back to shooting RAW + JPEG as I'm enjoying the monochrome mode so much. You can do this on the Em5ii as well, but it's just quicker to set it on and off with that big knob! It's just a lot of FUN!
I do think the EM5ii is easier to hold and yes it has better weatherproofing, but for my purposes this was not important. It's an extra click to choose my focus point on the PenF. The viewfinder being smaller hasn't really bothered me. I prefer the battery compartment and card slot on the Em5ii and I believe using a tripod with the Pen f could be problematic. I've yet to put it on a tripod.
I tried the Pen F with the flash at a party this week and couldn't get it to fire... it took me a long time at home to work it out - the flash won't fire when it is in silent mode.
Been there done that a few times . This is a handy investment for the tripod accessibility https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arca-Swi...872682?hash=item3d52c8702a:g:VMAAAOSwhDBZ5x1h
I still forget that with the G80 when using flash! Fired off a bunch of shots today in the garden trying to get off cam flash to work before realising I'd had the camera in ES after shooting against the sun recently.