Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

gad-westy said:
It's a while since I've done this but you're right. Your initial settings are indeed to expose the scene 'correctly'. What are the other options beyond that called?

I'm sorry I'm not more help but it's a while since I had an E-M5ii so memory hazy. It's worth perevering though. I think it's one of the best innovations on the Olympus cameras. Shot this one ages ago.

Rush Hour.jpg by G.A.D, on Flickr
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snerkler said:
I've never done the live composite but from what you don't have individual captures per se after the initial exposure. It's one long exposure but you can see it unfold in front of your very eyes, and the time setting is for the refresh rate to see how the scene is progressing. Therefore, if the scene progresses pretty quickly then you'll want a quick refresh rate so that you don't overexpose, but if the scene is unlikely to change quickly you may set it to 'update' every 10-20s.
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As far as I can see, you go into live comp mode then press the menu button to go into composite settings. Those settings are for exposure time per image in SS and range from 1/2sec to 60 sec. Its this thats confusing me, does this setting have to be the same as the initial exposure?
 
jakeblu said:
As far as I can see, you go into live comp mode then press the menu button to go into composite settings. Those settings are for exposure time per image in SS and range from 1/2sec to 60 sec. Its this thats confusing me, does this setting have to be the same as the initial exposure?
Click to expand...

I do seem to recall it being a little less than intuitive. Might be time for some trial and error!

This any use?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1VRHF1xqkg
 
snerkler said:
I've never done the live composite but from what you don't have individual captures per se after the initial exposure. It's one long exposure but you can see it unfold in front of your very eyes, and the time setting is for the refresh rate to see how the scene is progressing. Therefore, if the scene progresses pretty quickly then you'll want a quick refresh rate so that you don't overexpose, but if the scene is unlikely to change quickly you may set it to 'update' every 10-20s.
Click to expand...

jakeblu said:
As far as I can see, you go into live comp mode then press the menu button to go into composite settings. Those settings are for exposure time per image in SS and range from 1/2sec to 60 sec. Its this thats confusing me, does this setting have to be the same as the initial exposure?
Click to expand...
OK so it appears that I was wrong, it does take a series of images and 'stacks' these. Gavin Hoey is always useful to watch as he breaks it down pretty simply. It looks as though you can only set one time, so this has to be your initial exposure to make sure the scene is exposed correctly, each subsequent scene will then be shot for he same amount of time. If would be better (imo) if you could set the initial exposure and then choose the time delay for subsequent shots individually but it doesn't appear if this is possible

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pRhtJPcbrM
 
snerkler said:
OK so it appears that I was wrong, it does take a series of images and 'stacks' these. Gavin Hoey is always useful to watch as he breaks it down pretty simply. It looks as though you can only set one time, so this has to be your initial exposure to make sure the scene is exposed correctly, each subsequent scene will then be shot for he same amount of time. If would be better (imo) if you could set the initial exposure and then choose the time delay for subsequent shots individually but it doesn't appear if this is possible

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pRhtJPcbrM
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Good old Gavin to the rescue. Thanks for that
 
Shameless plug - I've got a new Olympus 17mm f1.7 for sale in the classifieds.
 
Cagey75 said:
Seen that, you're done with M43 it seems, what have you switched to?
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Gone over to the dark side, mainly for the D500 and 200-500mm f5.6. I wasn’t getting on terribly well with M43 for birding - contrary to some of the excellent images being posted by chaps using M43. I had both the Oly EM1 ii and Pan G9 but never seemed to be able to get the magic triangle right. I should have really given it more time. For general use the system was fantastic, and certainly a hell of a lot lighter!
The birding chaps that I know, rave about the D500, so I decided to give it a go. Early results are promising, it’s a lovely piece of kit, and the 200-500mm is excellent.
I’ve also bought a ‘new’ D7200 as a back up and more general use body.
Watch this space for the next sale!
 
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Purchased an Olympus 9-18mm yesterday despite saying I had all the lenses I wanted for now, heard that one before.
First impressions are encouraging, findings so far would suggest pretty good even at its widest, but not a lens for pixel peepers

Mainly got it for interiors when light will probably be less than ideal so expecting it to be good stopped down and tripod mounted
Also fine handheld for architecture and landscapes unless you want to print very large, don't think I ever have or will

Strange design and similar to the Panasonic 12-32 in action whereby it has to be extended before use.
Needs getting used to, but certainly helps to keep it compact which along with ibis are the reasons I have invested in m4/3
 
I used to enjoy using it when i had my 9-18. Unfortunately, i didn't use it often enough to keep. The Laowa 7.5 intrigues me but at £500 its pretty steep money
 
gad-westy said:
It's a while since I've done this but you're right. Your initial settings are indeed to expose the scene 'correctly'. What are the other options beyond that called?

I'm sorry I'm not more help but it's a while since I had an E-M5ii so memory hazy. It's worth perevering though. I think it's one of the best innovations on the Olympus cameras. Shot this one ages ago.

Rush Hour.jpg by G.A.D, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Love this shot BIG (y)
 
damianmkv said:
I used to enjoy using it when i had my 9-18. Unfortunately, i didn't use it often enough to keep. The Laowa 7.5 intrigues me but at £500 its pretty steep money
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I'm interested in the 9-18, I just don't think 12mm on MFT's is always gonna be wide enough and the other options are beyond my means. What did you think of th IQ.
 
jakeblu said:
I'm interested in the 9-18, I just don't think 12mm on MFT's is always gonna be wide enough and the other options are beyond my means. What did you think of th IQ.
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I used to use mine a lot but now I have a Panasonic 8-18mm
I am thinking of selling my 9-18mm
 
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Took my EM1 Mk2 to Scotland at the weekend, for a motorsports event, Sunday it rained, hard, all day, got soaked. The EM1.2 got as soaked as me but never skipped a beat. I can definitely confirm, should there be any doubt, that the EM1.2 is properly weather sealed and laughs at mere rain, even Scottish rain! :p

That is all ...
 
mark.roper said:
Took my EM1 Mk2 to Scotland at the weekend, for a motorsports event, Sunday it rained, hard, all day, got soaked. The EM1.2 got as soaked as me but never skipped a beat. I can definitely confirm, should there be any doubt, that the EM1.2 is properly weather sealed and laughs at mere rain, even Scottish rain! :p

That is all ...
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Any pictures to show the race???
 
Quick question, one that I think has been answered before somewhere across TP?

In the absence of Olympus publishing a codec for use by W10 to see .orf raw files in Windows Explorer.............................what do you recommend a file viewer (one that will show the .orf raw's as screen size for culling before importing into Lightroom.

I prefer something that has a 'small footprint' in so far as I only want a file viewer not a program to PP the files :) Oh, a reliable freeware one that is reliable would be even better :)
 
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Box Brownie said:
Very nice and the mono treatment suits the milky waterfalls, thanks for sharing those :)
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Thanks very much

jakeblu said:
Looks good, will have to look out for a reasonably priced used one. Where is the mono image taken, for a moment I thought it was aysgarth but I'm not sure it is now.
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Thanks, Monsal Weir in Derbyshire.
 
Box Brownie said:
Quick question, one that I think has been answered before somewhere across TP?

In the absence of Olympus publishing a codec for use by W10 to see .orf raw files in Windows Explorer.............................what do you recommend a file viewer (one that will show the .orf raw's as screen size for culling before importing into Lightroom.

I prefer something that has a 'small footprint' in so far as I only want a file viewer not a program to PP the files :) Oh, a reliable freeware one that is reliable would be even better :)
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Your not happy culling them at the Lightroom import module, you can view them at 100% there before deciding to import.
 
Box Brownie said:
Quick question, one that I think has been answered before somewhere across TP?

In the absence of Olympus publishing a codec for use by W10 to see .orf raw files in Windows Explorer.............................what do you recommend a file viewer (one that will show the .orf raw's as screen size for culling before importing into Lightroom.

I prefer something that has a 'small footprint' in so far as I only want a file viewer not a program to PP the files :) Oh, a reliable freeware one that is reliable would be even better :)
Click to expand...
I tend to cull some on the camera itself, and then the rest I do in Lightroom. I import, go through them and click 'x' on the ones I don't want to keep to mark them as rejected then once I've gone through them all I can go to photo in the menu > delete rejected > delete from disk ( or you can delete from library but still keep them on the computer if you wish).
 
jakeblu said:
Your not happy culling them at the Lightroom import module, you can view them at 100% there before deciding to import.
Click to expand...

For all the time I have used LR I had not even considered/realised that with the import window open I could see the "fill screen" view. Having said that if anything like the time taken to load raw files during import it would take a while!!!

ianp5a said:
Faststone? Raw Therapee. Dark Table.
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I have heard of Faststone and the others but will need to have gander at their functions becuase as mentioned I do not want or need a full blown PP program of which I thought Raw Therapee and Dark Table were?

snerkler said:
I tend to cull some on the camera itself, and then the rest I do in Lightroom. I import, go through them and click 'x' on the ones I don't want to keep to mark them as rejected then once I've gone through them all I can go to photo in the menu > delete rejected > delete from disk ( or you can delete from library but still keep them on the computer if you wish).
Click to expand...

I already chimp & delete but using Pro Capture even restricting the frame limit to a total of 15 that is more culling than I have been used to plus I like you cull and score in LR but if I could eliminate the worst frames first? ;) Hence if the likes of Faststone can open and allow rapid viewing of the raw files for that first cut cull I think that would be a time saver???
 
Box Brownie said:
I have heard of Faststone and the others but will need to have gander at their functions becuase as mentioned I do not want or need a full blown PP program of which I thought Raw Therapee and Dark Table were?
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Yes RT and DT have PP but it might not be a disadvantage, even if you don't need to use it.
And yes, try them all out. It's not much effort and you can find something that really suits you. Not someone else. I did that, and settled on Digikam for sorting and Raw Therapee. Which seemed to like my raw files.
 
Heads up about a Custom setting that might be of interest?

I was posing a question to Olympus support about the potential for an addition when they next do a firmware update.

Basically the ability to toggle between S-AF and C-AF or even as appropriate C-AF and C-AF & Tracking. As I understood it at the moment you need to go through the Menu with more than a simple button press i.e. not easy to do whilst you have camera at your eye.

Well, I thought I would share the answer I got in case you wish to have more mastery over the little wonder that the E-M1 mk2 is (NB I surmise at this stage this custom setting will, because of the shared menu system, work for other models?)

The reply was:-
"I certainly understand your request of having a button to switch between different auto focus modes.
This is actually possible on the E-M1 Mark II, however, not exactly in the same way as you described on your email."

"You are able to activate this if you assign 'MF' function to any of the custom buttons.
If you simply press the button, it will change from manual focus to auto focus or vice versa.
However, if you hold the button and use the rear dial, you are able select any of the focus modes"

I allocated the DoF Preview button to MF and what was advised above does indeed work......though not a simply AF mode switch she describes........I hold the DoF button and turn the rear wheel and the viewfinder shows two things, at the base are the various AF modes and the both front & rear wheel scrolls between them. Not as quick a pre-configued toggle choice but faster than going through the Menu system!!!

Of note, because I have with another custom settings allocated the C-AF to the L-Fn button (as the BBF button) on the lens I will need to be aware of that when making use of the AF mode shifts I want to use :)

The other thing in the viewfinder, that so far I have no idea why it shows (as I had not noticed it before?) at the very top the FPS^ symbol lights up.

I do not recall seeing this custom button setting being mentioned elsewhere before so I hope might be of interest to other users ;)
 
Box Brownie said:
For all the time I have used LR I had not even considered/realised that with the import window open I could see the "fill screen" view. Having said that if anything like the time taken to load raw files during import it would take a while!!!



I have heard of Faststone and the others but will need to have gander at their functions becuase as mentioned I do not want or need a full blown PP program of which I thought Raw Therapee and Dark Table were?



I already chimp & delete but using Pro Capture even restricting the frame limit to a total of 15 that is more culling than I have been used to plus I like you cull and score in LR but if I could eliminate the worst frames first? ;) Hence if the likes of Faststone can open and allow rapid viewing of the raw files for that first cut cull I think that would be a time saver???
Click to expand...
I used to do this, opening RAWs in preview on Mac (before it slowed right down) but I just find it easier to load into LR first and cull from there. I have a habit of setting import then going away and doing other things during the import process. That being said, the .orf files are pretty slow so I can start viewing and culling straight away. Takes a bit longer with my D850 files though ;)
 
I use Faststone to do my initial RAW cull after transferring to the PC. It's quick and painless really and ditches some of the bulk that will no doubt slow LR to a crawl
 
Box Brownie said:
Basically the ability to toggle between S-AF and C-AF or even as appropriate C-AF and C-AF & Tracking. As I understood it at the moment you need to go through the Menu with more than a simple button press i.e. not easy to do whilst you have camera at your eye.
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Er, you press the AF button on the top of the top left-side on/off dial, then with viewfinder to your eye select AF mode with the rear command dial and metering mode with the front command dial, and that's default as far as I'm aware, I do it all the time, easy.
 
mark.roper said:
Er, you press the AF button on the top of the top left-side on/off dial, then with viewfinder to your eye select AF mode with the rear command dial and metering mode with the front command dial, and that's default as far as I'm aware, I do it all the time, easy.
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Doh!!!!! I was so concentrating on 'the wish' that I forgot such a fundamental.........not menu but top left control button. :coat:

Having said that, I am not convinced re best camera handling to have to change the AF mode left-handed with camera at ones eye? To do that means taking your hand off of the lens..........this means you lose "control" of the camera ~ what I am trying get is being able quickly/smoothly change AF mode whilst I am looking at the subject & that means good hold and control.
 
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Box Brownie said:
Doh!!!!! I was so concentrating on 'the wish' that I forgot such a fundamental.........not menu but top left control button. :coat:

Having said that, I am not convinced re best camera handling to have to change the AF mode left-handed with camera at ones eye? To do that means taking your hand off of the lens..........this means you lose "control" of the camera ~ what I am trying get is being able quickly/smoothly change AF mode whilst I am looking at the subject & that means good hold and control.
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I think you can use the little lever on the right to change AF modes but can’t rememver what settings you can use with it, not gone through the settings for the lever for a long time ;)
 
snerkler said:
I think you can use the little lever on the right to change AF modes but can’t rememver what settings you can use with it, not gone through the settings for the lever for a long time ;)
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I think you may be correct, as in settings customisable with the Fn lever....but I am left eye dominant and reaching that lever means I am poking my right eye with my right thumb. I found that out when intially tried the AEL/AFL button as the BBF :(
 
Box Brownie said:
I think you may be correct, as in settings customisable with the Fn lever....but I am left eye dominant and reaching that lever means I am poking my right eye with my right thumb. I found that out when intially tried the AEL/AFL button as the BBF :(
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Yep, I have the same issue ;)
 
Ohh that's a nice camera.
Wow, you just don't see those old cameras much these days.
Will it get a good picture, as I fit my 75-300 zoom.
Where do you still get film developed?
Sorry cameras like yours aren't allowed, yours is.

Funny comments since using a Pen-F
 
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