Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

But Jeff.... like me you can pair your G9 with a nice EM-1 mkII. Silver Lining...
 
Took the camera to the local park tonight, caught a sunset
Sunset after the rain 2 by Pete Banks, on Flickr

I used DxO Optics pro to process and getting to like that program. They have a sale this month too so may upgrade.
 
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Took the camera to the local park tonight, caught a sunset
Sunset after the rain 2 by Pete Banks, on Flickr

I used DxO Optics pro to process and getting to like that program. They have a sale this month too so may upgrade.

Nice sunset caught at the 'right' moment :)

PS are you shooting raw? As I was reading somewhere that someone was doing a comparison between LR, Capture1 and DxO and that he concluded LR did not handle .ORF files that well compared to DxO.
 
Nice sunset caught at the 'right' moment :)

PS are you shooting raw? As I was reading somewhere that someone was doing a comparison between LR, Capture1 and DxO and that he concluded LR did not handle .ORF files that well compared to DxO.

Yes it's raw, I don't use lightroom, I use Affinity photo to process raw files but that 25% off DxO stuff for the next few days is tempting.
The microcontrast control on DxO impresses me too.
 
A quick question - I have a Yongnuo trigger which works with my Canon for off camera flash. I'm wondering if I can try it on my Oly. I know I won't have ETTL, but will it still work manually? Presumably there is no harm in trying it out?
 
A quick question - I have a Yongnuo trigger which works with my Canon for off camera flash. I'm wondering if I can try it on my Oly. I know I won't have ETTL, but will it still work manually? Presumably there is no harm in trying it out?
unless of course it fries your camera electronics ,when in doubt leave it out !!!!
 
A quick question - I have a Yongnuo trigger which works with my Canon for off camera flash. I'm wondering if I can try it on my Oly. I know I won't have ETTL, but will it still work manually? Presumably there is no harm in trying it out?

I use Yongnuo YN622C transceivers on my Canon 5D2 for ETTL and Manual Mode, but it also works for Manual Mode with no issues on my OMD EM1 Mk 1 and my Lumix GH3. I use them in manual mode to trigger my studio flash heads and very reliable they are too. However, note that all my M43 cameras have the 3 data pin hotshoes. Some of the later cameras add a pin 4 which feeds the separate bundled flashes with volts. I wouldn't use the 622C transceivers on the M43 4 pin cameras.
 
A quick question - I have a Yongnuo trigger which works with my Canon for off camera flash. I'm wondering if I can try it on my Oly. I know I won't have ETTL, but will it still work manually? Presumably there is no harm in trying it out?
My Yongnuo 622 does not work om my EM5 ii, I had assumed that the centre pin on any trigger would work with the centre pin of any flash pretty much but not on the EM5 ii it seems. So I bought some of these
Neewer Wireless Flash Trigger
which work fine :)
 
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I use Yongnuo YN622C transceivers on my Canon 5D2 for ETTL and Manual Mode, but it also works for Manual Mode with no issues on my OMD EM1 Mk 1 and my Lumix GH3. I use them in manual mode to trigger my studio flash heads and very reliable they are too. However, note that all my M43 cameras have the 3 data pin hotshoes. Some of the later cameras add a pin 4 which feeds the separate bundled flashes with volts. I wouldn't use the 622C transceivers on the M43 4 pin cameras.
My Yongnuo 622 does not work om my EM5 ii, I had assumed that the centre pin on any trigger would work with the centre pin of any flash pretty much but not on the EM5 ii it seems. So I bought some of these
Neewer Wireless Flash Trigger
which work fine :)
Thanks for the responses. I'll have a look at the number of pins tomorrow and try it out. I have the EM1 ii and Pen F so I may be out of luck. I've got neewer chargers and they've been good, so will look at those triggers too.
 
I recently obtained an E-M1 (first generation) to see what M43 is about. I do like the form factor (I initially acquired an E-M10 and felt it was a bit too small but still a nice piece of kit), but I am now discovering the joy that is the fabled Olympus menu system. It is mostly understandable though some of the icons confound me at present, and I'm struggling to get the wifi connection established, though the latter is unimportant. The weirdest things I'm finding are:
1. EVF - it lags, so my first instinct was to hate it compared to OVF, but on the other hand I like the wysiwyg it offers
2. In the EVF (but obviously not LiveView), when I put my eye to it (with glasses) the picture is out of focus, but without my glasses it is focused. Is this normal or just me? I can't use it easily if I have to keep lifting my glasses out of the way.

Can someone offer a clear guide as to the best combinations of settings to establish - I liked the idea of combining a few groups of settings under a label with an assigned Fn button.
Interesting cameras, looking forward to using them a bit when I feel I can operate them adequately.
 
I recently obtained an E-M1 (first generation) to see what M43 is about. I do like the form factor (I initially acquired an E-M10 and felt it was a bit too small but still a nice piece of kit), but I am now discovering the joy that is the fabled Olympus menu system. It is mostly understandable though some of the icons confound me at present, and I'm struggling to get the wifi connection established, though the latter is unimportant. The weirdest things I'm finding are:
1. EVF - it lags, so my first instinct was to hate it compared to OVF, but on the other hand I like the wysiwyg it offers
2. In the EVF (but obviously not LiveView), when I put my eye to it (with glasses) the picture is out of focus, but without my glasses it is focused. Is this normal or just me? I can't use it easily if I have to keep lifting my glasses out of the way.

Can someone offer a clear guide as to the best combinations of settings to establish - I liked the idea of combining a few groups of settings under a label with an assigned Fn button.
Interesting cameras, looking forward to using them a bit when I feel I can operate them adequately.
The EVF (like OVF) has a diopter adjustment, it sounds like it's set to compensate for your (or similar) eye prescription. There's a dial on the side that changes the diopter so you should be able to find a setting that allows use with your glasses.
 
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Thanks snerkler, I'll check that and try it.



Checked it, corrected it and now all good. Many thanks. Now the menu and settings....
 
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I recently obtained an E-M1 (first generation) to see what M43 is about. I do like the form factor (I initially acquired an E-M10 and felt it was a bit too small but still a nice piece of kit), but I am now discovering the joy that is the fabled Olympus menu system. It is mostly understandable though some of the icons confound me at present, and I'm struggling to get the wifi connection established, though the latter is unimportant. The weirdest things I'm finding are:
1. EVF - it lags, so my first instinct was to hate it compared to OVF, but on the other hand I like the wysiwyg it offers
2. In the EVF (but obviously not LiveView), when I put my eye to it (with glasses) the picture is out of focus, but without my glasses it is focused. Is this normal or just me? I can't use it easily if I have to keep lifting my glasses out of the way.

Can someone offer a clear guide as to the best combinations of settings to establish - I liked the idea of combining a few groups of settings under a label with an assigned Fn button.
Interesting cameras, looking forward to using them a bit when I feel I can operate them adequately.
There is a great YouTube video where the guy goes through recommended settings 1 by 1. Where you go through and pause it when you try each thing it. There was a video for the EM5 and I think another for the em1. But many settings are the same. I don't have the link handy. But I posted one on this thread several times over the years.
 
Thanks Ian, I remember now noticing that a few pages back in this thread I think. I'll do a search and watch it with camera in hand.
 
I recently obtained an E-M1 (first generation) to see what M43 is about. I do like the form factor (I initially acquired an E-M10 and felt it was a bit too small but still a nice piece of kit), but I am now discovering the joy that is the fabled Olympus menu system. It is mostly understandable though some of the icons confound me at present, and I'm struggling to get the wifi connection established, though the latter is unimportant. The weirdest things I'm finding are:
1. EVF - it lags, so my first instinct was to hate it compared to OVF, but on the other hand I like the wysiwyg it offers
2. In the EVF (but obviously not LiveView), when I put my eye to it (with glasses) the picture is out of focus, but without my glasses it is focused. Is this normal or just me? I can't use it easily if I have to keep lifting my glasses out of the way.

Can someone offer a clear guide as to the best combinations of settings to establish - I liked the idea of combining a few groups of settings under a label with an assigned Fn button.
Interesting cameras, looking forward to using them a bit when I feel I can operate them adequately.
biofos.com/index.html
 
As per the thread talking about DxO as raw processor here https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/dxo-photolab.684049/#post-8247102

I have looked at these two images as follows LR > DxO Plugin > processed in DxO > exported as 16 bit TIF to LR > opened for finalising in PS6 > saved as 8bit JPEG (NB in PS I cropped to approx 50% of the original size and unlike my first DxO experiment (shown on the other thread) I applied at web sized as showing below some Smart Sharpening..............on the Fly image Smart Sharpening did not seem to help and I surmise because the Fly was such a small object in the overall frame?

#1 Moon Shot
MoonShot0007_DxO-Edit.jpg

#2 Bee feeding on Buddlia
Bee0542_DxO-Edit.jpg

FWIW I have found DxO a boon when it comes to initial PP to 'bring out the best' (as I see it :) ) in the .ORF files

Enjoy ? :)
 
Just a general observation.

On a walk a few days ago I took just the 12-40mm f2.8 (almost all shot so far has been with the 40-150 with & without the x1.4 TC)

I took the opportunity to try C-AF with traffic on the A road from a bridge, now granted even at 40mm they were small in the frame but the AF really did not yield much that was sharply focused i.e.shutter releasing even if not focused?..........................thinks have I carried over a setting I was trying elsewhere??? NB this was 'continuous shooting L' plus some with silent shutter to remove shutter shock.

Edit ~ even more frame filling slower moving cars not that good.................but this may be down to the AF struggling, even though I was focusing on the number plates, because of the shiney/reflective surfaces???

But plants and other static subjects including a local cat are fine taken with S-AF :)

So, need to re-check my menu settings for Av and Tv modes with C-AF
 
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There is definitely a sub setting for when using C-AF regarding releasing the shutter even when not in focus :)

Coincidentally, I was playing with C-AF last night and foudn it would focus then go out of focus and find it again, rather than find it and lock and then adjust if needed.
 
what shutter speed was being used ? My experience of the e-m1.1 was there was little difference in the number of keepers going from S-AF to C-AF
 
There is definitely a sub setting for when using C-AF regarding releasing the shutter even when not in focus :)

Coincidentally, I was playing with C-AF last night and foudn it would focus then go out of focus and find it again, rather than find it and lock and then adjust if needed.

Yes, I recall that setting mentioned in a discussion about 'more keepers if you let it grab everything rather than wait for each frame to be in focus before firing the shutter......' need to double check what I left it set at???

what shutter speed was being used ? My experience of the e-m1.1 was there was little difference in the number of keepers going from S-AF to C-AF

I think you may have hit this nail on the head ~ on the closer in cars and the reflection question, I was at 1/200 but the A road cars..............1/80 to 1/100 (doh! ~ ), so with cars travelling at 70mph (maybe even 80mph?) that needs a retest in Tv and 1/500 or greater (note to self ~ where can I go to find a good panning spot as I hate static wheels i.e. pan at 1/100 or slower :)
 
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