Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 & Mark 2 Owners Thread

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Managed to sneak out for a couple of hours yesterday first thing. Felt like a proper autumn morning, with a real chill in the air :)

Old Wooden Posts
by Simon Harrison, on Flickr

EM1 mk II + Pany 8-18mm + Haida 0.9 SE ND Grad filter.

Cheers,

Simon.
 
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nice couple of shots especially with that messy background , I'm presuming this is the 40-150 2.8 pro lens , been hovering on buying one all week but don't know if there's enough range for what I do really .. these are swaying me though
Yes these are with the f/2.8 version. It's lovely and sharp and light. It works really well with the extender, but then you have f/4.
If you use it on a butterfly and press as they leave the flower they often fly backwards, it then looks like you caught them landing...
Nice shots! I like that idea with butterflies - I must try it.

I tried pro capture again with football yesterday. It does help get better shots if you're timing's not quite on the money, but I came home with 1400 shots instead of around 400-500 - far too many. I think I'll stick to using it with nature photographs. It might be more suited to not using back button focusing as I do too.

I think I read somewhere that in high pro capture it uses one shot whereas with lo it uses C-Af.
 
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Yes these are with the f/2.8 version. It's lovely and sharp and light. It works really well with the extender, but then you have f/4.

Nice shots! I like that idea with butterflies - I must try it.

I tried pro capture again with football yesterday. It does help get better shots if you're timing's not quite on the money, but I came home with 1400 shots instead of around 400-500 - far too many. I think I'll stick to using it with nature photographs. It might be more suited to not using back button focusing as I do too.

I think I read somewhere that in high pro capture it uses one shot whereas with lo it uses C-Af.
I only tried the pro-capture high and that always changed it from CAF to SAF, didn't try the Pro-capture low as at that point (and still now) I don't know the difference.
 
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I only tried the pro-capture high and that always changed it from CAF to SAF, didn't try the Pro-capture low as at that point (and still now) I don't know the difference.
Pro-capture low uses C-af and High uses S-af, you need an Olympus lens for low, the main thing is to set the number of shots it records before and after the shutter fires,for most things you don't need many for the pre-release and mostly less for the after.
 
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Highland Cow taken on my recent trip to Scotland. More pics can be seen in the photo section but were taken with my Nikon :oops: :$ ;)


Highland Cattle Isle of Skye
by TDG-77, on Flickr
 
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Very interesting mike thanks for posting .. worth keeping on the back burner for future use . Does this work with RAW files to
 
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Another from Sunday morning at Steetley Pier, this time around 20 minutes before the sun rose.

Steetley Pier
by Simon Harrison, on Flickr

EM1 mk II + Panny 8-18mm + Haida 0.9 SE ND Grad filter.

Cheers,

Simon.
Nice Simon one of my old buddies Ivor miller goes there a lot
 
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reed warbler from today , massive crop so very pleased with the result .. spent a few hours at the wood then tried my hand at gulls in flight down the estuary with good results ,cant really knock the results from this camera so far .any mistakes are user error or not having the correct settings in for the subject to be precise

peaky reeders
by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
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Highlight & Shadows adjustment Page 66

Ignore other settings on SCP.

olympus-omd-em1-mkii-super-control-panel_pe.jpg

Plus I find moving the power switch to the FN lever very convenient.
 
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Highlight & Shadows adjustment Page 66

Ignore other settings on SCP.

View attachment 254978

Plus I find moving the power switch to the FN lever very convenient.
and what is that supposed to do ... your shooting so you say with a lens a PL100-400 that needs a lot of light as it starts at f6.3 the only things you need to worry about in reality is shutter speed and iso levels ..
but if you can explain any advantage in setting highlights to -7 it might help

I also note you say ignore other settings but this is NOT the set up for a 100-400 lens is it
 
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I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on it
and what is that supposed to do ... your shooting so you say with a lens a PL100-400 that needs a lot of light as it starts at f6.3 the only things you need to worry about in reality is shutter speed and iso levels ..
but if you can explain any advantage in setting highlights to -7 it might help

I also note you say ignore other settings but this is NOT the set up for a 100-400 lens is it
Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?

I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present
 
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Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?

I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present
Its not something i have used but in the right context i don't see why not, as a global adjustment i have doubts its a good idea, with my main area of interest being wildlife and working in situations were things happen quickly i would not have the time to make an individual shot adjustment, i stick with the exposure adjustment/compensation when needed, its a lot quicker for me.
 
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Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?

I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present
Are you shooting raw or jpeg? I think (although don't quote me on this) that settings like this only affect jpeg.
 
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I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on it
If you're shooting JPEG, then this can help preserve your highlights but you will run the risk of producing flat looking image.

Make sure you've enabled the highlight and shadow warnings for your EVF. This will show clipped highlights in red and shadows in blue. You can also adjust the RGB values that these appear at to give more latitude. I find this extremely useful.

Hope this helps.

Simon.
 
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Are you shooting raw or jpeg? I think (although don't quote me on this) that settings like this only affect jpeg.
I agree Toby - I'm sure this will only help if shooting JPEG only.

Simon.
 
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This is the case on any camera afaik. It also affects video
Robin Wong covers this in his latest video around maximising dynamic range from OMD cameras. Changing the shadow / highlight curve is one of the tips he gives that will only benefit JPEG shooters.

Skip to around 9 minutes in.

View: https://youtu.be/PIUeUOIBM10


Cheers,

Simon.
 
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Not my usual choice of Kit as I set for Landscape photography but found some other things to shoot. Taken with my E-M1 and 40-150 pro and MC-14.

Taken handheld at the Dubwath silver meadows nature reserve on my way home

Painted lady
by Alf Branch, on Flickr

This a tripod mounted shot on the shore of Buttermere

Emerged mayfly
by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
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If you're shooting JPEG, then this can help preserve your highlights but you will run the risk of producing flat looking image.

Make sure you've enabled the highlight and shadow warnings for your EVF. This will show clipped highlights in red and shadows in blue. You can also adjust the RGB values that these appear at to give more latitude. I find this extremely useful.

Hope this helps.

Simon.
Yeah haven't looked into the flatness, as I'm just play around with the settings. However on a basic flower image it does retain more details. I looked at the warnings setting previously with the EM5mk2 and hated it. Maybe its time I spent a little time revisiting it?

Robin Wong covers this in his latest video around maximising dynamic range from OMD cameras. Changing the shadow / highlight curve is one of the tips he gives that will only benefit JPEG shooters.

Skip to around 9 minutes in.

View: https://youtu.be/PIUeUOIBM10


Cheers,

Simon.
Yes I'm aware its for jpg and maybe not for everyone or everything.
 
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