Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

the black fox said:
and what happened today , I had a good day at my local RSPB reserve . but left around dinnertime to see if any owls had been spotted along the coast a bit . got to parkgate spoke to a few of the lads and nothing had been seen . saw the grey clouds gathering in the distance so thought time to go .. got in car driving along the prom . saw a kestrel land ahead of me on a lamppost . pulled the car over (sod the double yellows) jumped out walked up to the lamppost and grabbed some shots ,a lady then poked a phone in its face so it flew off but I caught a good burst anyway . right time right place , right silly grin on my face before/during/after . this Pete sums it up perfectly .
look out post by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr

balancing act by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr

dont stand so close to me by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
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Lovely shots
 
should also have said ,earlier in the day took a burst of another kestrel ,bit further away and grabbed a 29 shot burst every one in focus to
 
What's the best settings for birding, bearing in mind I am pretty new to the system and still using old DSLR settings
 
Dangermouse said:
What's the best settings for birding, bearing in mind I am pretty new to the system and still using old DSLR settings
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.... If you are asking about aperture/shutter/ISO settings then the same settings you would apply on a D-SLR or indeed SLR (but with fixed ISO film).

There is no 'best settings' formula for shooting any wildlife - Every set of circumstances is different. A Heron will pose absolutely still but a small Tit is constantly on the move for example. A bird in flight needs at least 1/2000s to freeze the motion but not on an occasion when you might prefer some motion blur.

Personally I recommend shooting Manual-mode so you have fuller control of the camera, otherwise it's a robot which decides for you - Cleverly decides but not necessarily delivering the final image you want.

I also recommend having the histogram on display in the viewfinder - You needn't get lost in the technicalities but just keep an eye on the plotted shape and position : Too far over the righthand edge results in overblown whites and too far over the lefthand edge results in dead blacks and potentially more noise. If you shoot RAW you have a much greater chance of rescuing images but also much more scope for enhancing them. RAW files are approximately 5 times the size of JPEGs because RAW captures much more data* on the sensor. But you then need RAW conversion and editing software which can add extra cost. Olympus Workspace is free once you have registered your Olympus product.

*As I understand it, every digital camera sensor initially captures RAW data but converts to JPEG onboard if you set it to write JPEG to a card. Cheaper cameras don't offer a RAW output option. RAW is solely data and not an image.

When someone has spent a significant amount of money on a digital camera and high quality lenses aka 'glass', I do not understand why they would not shoot RAW unless they are a journalist needing fast direct output to a publication's editors etc.

To separate the focussing from the shutter firing I use Back Button Focus on the AEF/AEL button. A half press on the shutter button actions the image stabilisation [applies to E-M1X and no doubt similar bodies such as E-M1].

I hope this helps.
 
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Pete despite robins overly complex answer ,it’s simple really .i use a/v with auto iso set and a minimum shutter speed of 1/1000th sec on the PL lens due to minimum aperture restrictions .this can result in high iso shots but not a problem with these files .
Menu settings can be quite complex . And it’s best to check online and apply ideas from different users it’s a bloody long learning curve though but trial and error is the best way to learn .hence I’m not giving tips .. the only one I will giv3 though is at the end of the cog wheel menu there is the ability to switch off the OVF so it’s constantly live . This stops the EVF blacking out between b.i.f shots and helps in burst shots .

If your really struggling send a p.m and il forward my land line number and run you through my menu settings over the phone
 
Dangermouse said:
What's the best settings for birding, bearing in mind I am pretty new to the system and still using old DSLR settings
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Widest aperture, auto ISO, 1/1000 (although can be lower with static birds) and AF-C. As far as the AF settings, which Olympus do you have?
 
What to do on a boring Sunday...………..put the camera on a tripod, point it at a bird feeder and have a play around with Ol.Share remote, well it certainly works and has a decent range of about 30ft, I was sat in comfort in my living room, the camera was out in the cold, took a few test shots using the E-M1 II and 75f1.8 and the images were super sharp, pty not one single bird landed for a feed in 2 hours, but as soon as I brought the camera in...…...it was like the little buggers knew.
 
Dangermouse said:
E-M1 II @snerkler
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I’ll have a look if I can find it later but Olympus have a page somewhere with the best settings for AF, I’m glad I saw it as it’s the opposite to what I use on the Nikon.
 
Morning All

I will be moving to the OMD E-M1 MK2 in the new year and have followed the forum over the last month seeking as much information before making the move, many users have indicated the E-M1 mk2 is a long learning curve up wards. Found this article which may or not be relevant to setting up the body to deal with wildlife. The settings are at the bottom of the page.

https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/olympus-omd-em1-ii-firmware-3-0-birds-in-flight/
 
mazdaman said:
Morning All

I will be moving to the OMD E-M1 MK2 in the new year and have followed the forum over the last month seeking as much information before making the move, many users have indicated the E-M1 mk2 is a long learning curve up wards. Found this article which may or not be relevant to setting up the body to deal with wildlife. The settings are at the bottom of the page.

https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/olympus-omd-em1-ii-firmware-3-0-birds-in-flight/
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Depends what you’re coming from I guess, but I’ve never found Olympus any more difficult to set up than any other camera tbh.
 
mazdaman said:
Morning All

I will be moving to the OMD E-M1 MK2 in the new year and have followed the forum over the last month seeking as much information before making the move, many users have indicated the E-M1 mk2 is a long learning curve up wards. Found this article which may or not be relevant to setting up the body to deal with wildlife. The settings are at the bottom of the page.

https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/olympus-omd-em1-ii-firmware-3-0-birds-in-flight/
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.... Good Morning terry with a small t [We already have a Terry with a big T regularly posting in this thread - GreenNinja].

Here is a link to some bird-in-flight shooting which you may find useful :

https://smallsensorphotography.com/e-m1x-bird-in-flight-test

But be aware that not all the settings which a photographer tells you on the interwebbynet will suit you best.
 
snerkler said:
Depends what you’re coming from I guess, but I’ve never found Olympus any more difficult to set up than any other camera tbh.
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Wouldn't say more difficult, but I find Olympus menus to be a bit over complicated.
The anti shutter shock business didn't help with extra settings that needed changing.
Must say my preference lies with the Panasonic menu, but that's not relevant if you are buying the E-M1ii
 
RedRobin said:
.... Good Morning terry with a small t [We already have a Terry with a big T regularly posting in this thread - GreenNinja].

Here is a link to some bird-in-flight shooting which you may find useful :

https://smallsensorphotography.com/e-m1x-bird-in-flight-test

But be aware that not all the settings which a photographer tells you on the interwebbynet will suit you best.
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Thanks Robin a bit more reading for me, you are correct not all settings are correct from the web I guess its case of adapt maybe a setting found on the web as a starting point to suit ones own shooting style. I have found in particular this forum a source of interesting debate and information to understand the pluses and minus of using the micro 4/3 which I need to grasp before committing to a move away from Canon
 
tijuana taxi said:
Wouldn't say more difficult, but I find Olympus menus to be a bit over complicated.
The anti shutter shock business didn't help with extra settings that needed changing.
Must say my preference lies with the Panasonic menu, but that's not relevant if you are buying the E-M1ii
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.... It's like any user interface in that initial unfamiliarity confronts you at first and then you gradually become familiar and hey-ho it's suddenly easy.

Besides, with such extensive customisation options on the Olympus E-M1/M1X you can create shortcuts to the settings you individually want to change more often either via buttons etc or in sets via C1/C2/C3 etc modes.
 
mazdaman said:
Morning All

I will be moving to the OMD E-M1 MK2 in the new year and have followed the forum over the last month seeking as much information before making the move, many users have indicated the E-M1 mk2 is a long learning curve up wards. Found this article which may or not be relevant to setting up the body to deal with wildlife. The settings are at the bottom of the page.

https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/olympus-omd-em1-ii-firmware-3-0-birds-in-flight/
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Good link there . With some useful hints to try out . Tbh I haven’t had a lot of success with multi point tracking but it could be helped with some tips in here. Up till now I have tended to use just the single pinpoint focus and find it easier to keep on a bird even hand held .. but there’s more than one way to skin a cat . Thanks for finding and posting link
 
mazdaman said:
Thanks Robin a bit more reading for me, you are correct not all settings are correct from the web I guess its case of adapt maybe a setting found on the web as a starting point to suit ones own shooting style. I have found in particular this forum a source of interesting debate and information to understand the pluses and minus of using the micro 4/3 which I need to grasp before committing to a move away from Canon
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.... I have loved the 6 years I have spent shooting Canon gear (exclusively with Canon lenses) and first tried Olympus E-M1X + Pro glass about 7 weeks ago thinking I would keep some of my Canon gear as well for a bit at least but I like the M1X so much that I have just bought an additional M1X body and ALL my Canon gear is now being sold. But this does not mean you should do the same! Others here have kept a foot in both m4/3 and D-SLR camps for their own very valid reasons.

Yes, digest and use info from others as a guide rather than set it in stone. Then just shoot shoot shoot and enjoy!! I shoot on average about 500 images a week.
 
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the black fox said:
Good link there . With some useful hints to try out . Tbh I haven’t had a lot of success with multi point tracking but it could be helped with some tips in here. Up till now I have tended to use just the single pinpoint focus and find it easier to keep on a bird even hand held .. but there’s more than one way to skin a cat . Thanks for finding and posting link
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Tbh up until today I’ve always read that tracking ‘should be avoided’ but I’ve just read two articles from Olly ambassadors suggesting using it so like mentioned above try the different options and see what works for ‘you’ (y)
 
just input a couple of changes from Terrys link . found another part of hidden menu I didn't know existed ,changing to sequential low also changed me back to single shot to but changed that to burst mode again. will try it out in the field when time permits . still on that learning curve but must be getting near PHD levels now :olympus:


EDIT tried out and totally useless switched back to my high speed burst mode whether its the use of my older four thirds lens (50-200 SWD) or something else I dont know .. but I know what works for me . and I have a constant stream of ever ready gulls willing to fly overhead and pose for me when required and to practice any changes on . I'm not disputing the fact that the set-up may work in some circumstances but not all .
 
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jerry12953 said:
Speaking generally, I do notice the 4:3 format and I know for sure that I prefer 3:2 .......... well 2.7:1 actually ........:LOL:
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.... Apart from cropping 3:2 in post-processing you can also set your viewfinder to show 3:2 or other formats while shooting (M1X and probably M1 too).

EDIT :
The 4:3 sensor will still capture a 4:3 image but the aspect ratio format you select to see in the viewfinder will offer you a composition option for final cropping choice in post-processing. This applies to RAW images but I don't know if it does for JPEG.

So for example, you might see a scene which you think would result in a great picture in 16:9 format... You select to see 16:9 framing in your viewfinder and compose accordingly... Later in post-processing you decide to refine your original cropping and you have the whole 4:3 image captured by the m4/3 sensor to edit to your liking. I am assuming that your selected crop format frame is also displayed in Live View on the rear screen.

I have never used this option myself because as a wildlife photographer, (a) I want to keep all my options open without distraction and (b) there is rarely time to keep swopping and changing frame formats. As a 'retired-but-hardwired' professional Art Director (and Graphic Designer) my brain has already processed my preferred future cropping options while my eye is in the viewfinder and so personally I don't use it.

This selectable aspect ratio frame format option could be particularly useful when photographing landscapes, or even weddings or posed shots.
 
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RedRobin said:
.... Apart from cropping 3:2 in post-processing you can also set your viewfinder to show 3:2 or other formats while shooting (M1X and probably M1 too).
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FWIW
I have set my E-M1 mk2 EVF view to the 3:2 ratio and there have been some images where the 'overlap' (of the 4:3 complete frame) that is still there on the RAW file for added cropping choice where needed. ;)
 
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The RAW files from my E-M1 MkII often have more pixels than shown. I’ve always assumed it is to do with the IBIS and the need for more coverage when the sensor is moving.
 
Box Brownie said:
FWIW
I have set my E-M1 mk2 EVF view to the 3:2 ratio and there have been some images where the 'overlap' (of the 4:3 complete frame) that is still there on the RAW file for added cropping choice where needed. ;)
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Every OMD I’ve had has been like this, shoot raw in 3:2 but it actually still captures the full 4:3 image which you can select in post. Handy if you’ve clipped the subject at the top or bottom of the frame in the 3:2 frame ;)
 
Box Brownie said:
FWIW
I have set my E-M1 mk2 EVF view to the 3:2 ratio and there have been some images where the 'overlap' (of the 4:3 complete frame) that is still there on the RAW file for added cropping choice where needed. ;)
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snerkler said:
Every OMD I’ve had has been like this, shoot raw in 3:2 but it actually still captures the full 4:3 image which you can select in post. Handy if you’ve clipped the subject at the top or bottom of the frame in the 3:2 frame ;)
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Thanks for this as I didn't know you could do this. Still rather new to the Olympus system.
 
Box Brownie said:
FWIW
I have set my E-M1 mk2 EVF view to the 3:2 ratio and there have been some images where the 'overlap' (of the 4:3 complete frame) that is still there on the RAW file for added cropping choice where needed. ;)
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.... Good point and so I have edited my Reply #17,833 accordingly. Cheers!
 
Pound Coin said:
The RAW files from my E-M1 MkII often have more pixels than shown. I’ve always assumed it is to do with the IBIS and the need for more coverage when the sensor is moving.
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.... By that do you mean the RAW file size you see listed when importing from the camera? In other words, the camera manufacturer's published Mb file size is less than most of the images you capture? If so, the same happens with Canon and I expect with all camera brands shooting RAW.

Or am I confusing Mpx sensor capability with captured Mb file size?
 
When I click on the crop tool in Capture One the image is often, but not always, already cropped.
 
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