Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

snerkler said:
Not sure why it would be a game changer? The A7R IV has human and animal eye AF, IBIS and a 61mp sensor. Plus it’s about £1k cheaper (y)
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Ah! OK I live and learn ;)

PS ...........I can wish for such eye AF in an Olympus FW update........?
 
PPS to the above

The M1X and the MK3 already have very good eye AF tracking for human faces....................so just maybe for animal eyes., a possibility ???
 
Box Brownie said:
Ah! OK I live and learn ;)

PS ...........I can wish for such eye AF in an Olympus FW update........?
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I’d have thought so (y). At present Sony still has the best implementation AFAIK as you can use single point AF in tandem with eye AF meaning you can select the eye and the camera will then keep track of it, this way if there’s more than one set of eyes in the frame you control which it picks up. Nikon‘s isn’t as good, you have to use wide/auto AF which means you can’t select the initial eye(s) that you want it to pick up on if there’s multiple in the frame. I’m not 100% sure how Canon’s works but I believe it’s more similar to Nikon.
 
snerkler said:
I’d have thought so (y). At present Sony still has the best implementation AFAIK as you can use single point AF in tandem with eye AF meaning you can select the eye and the camera will then keep track of it, this way if there’s more than one set of eyes in the frame you control which it picks up. Nikon‘s isn’t as good, you have to use wide/auto AF which means you can’t select the initial eye(s) that you want it to pick up on if there’s multiple in the frame. I’m not 100% sure how Canon’s works but I believe it’s more similar to Nikon.
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Olympus say this of that function......................how hard can it be to implement animal (& birds) eyes :LOL:

Face Priority and Eye Priority AF
Face Priority and Eye Priority AF automatically detect and focus on the subject's face and eyes. This feature is particularly useful for portrait photography using a large-diameter lens.
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Re my dragonfly inflight image (Reply #20,393), a BIG THANKYOU to everyone quoted below for the compliments and encouragement from your comments - Very much appreciated! And also to others for the Likes.

I think this was my first session of photographing dragonflies in flight since moving from Canon to Olympus. My technique was to shoot Manual Focus until looking in focus in the viewfinder and then immediately using my thumb on Back Button Focus to lock on and stay in focus (when successful). I have to say that my Canon EF 100mm Macro has a particularly tactile and responsive manual focus ring compared with the Olympus lenses - It's gearing is just right. For those who are wondering, this was shot on my hybrid macro rig being Canon EF lens mounted on Olympus M1X body via Metabones Adapter giving 280mm equivalent reach.

It's really useful for me to now know that my macro rig can also be used for dragonfly inflight shots because when I am out in the dragonfly season I am usually also carrying my ED 300mm + MC-14 Pro + M1X rig which in most cases gives too much reach (840mm) to find the flying target in the viewfinder.

Bebop said:
Superb Robin!
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alfbranch said:
Very nice
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jakeblu said:
Oh wow Robin that’s amazing.
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Box Brownie said:
Its a cracker with lovely DoF & background colour/isolation :)
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Ajophotog said:
You done great Mate, this is a corker. (y)
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damianmkv said:
Does anyone have a non Olympus hood for the 17mm f1.8 ? The OE is hilariously priced...
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.... You need to double check which one but some of the Canon lens hoods and also Fotodiox hoods are apparently a good fit and a very practical substitute for the fancy Olympus ones which too easily lose their tiny ball bearing mechanisms. Canon hoods aren't cheap-as-chips but they are cheaper than the OE. I do like the Olympus slide-back-over-the-lens feature though as it's very useful when packing - I don't often change filters.

The hood on my Olympus 40-150mm Pro got knocked on a rock while I was changing batteries during a surfer photography session and performed its own teardown into three separate components and flying tiny ball bearings surfing the sandy beach!! It is actually a very common problem.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiktE5yA17M
 
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RedRobin said:
.... You need to double check which one but some of the Canon lens hoods and also Fotodiox hoods are apparently a good fit and a very practical substitute for the fancy Olympus ones which too easily lose their tiny ball bearing mechanisms. Canon hoods aren't cheap-as-chips but they are cheaper than the OE. I do like the Olympus slide-back-over-the-lens feature though as it's very useful when packing - I don't often change filters.

The hood on my Olympus 40-150mm Pro got knocked on a rock while I was changing batteries during a surfer photography session and performed its own teardown into three separate components and flying tiny ball bearings surfing the sandy beach!! It is actually a very common problem.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiktE5yA17M
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the one on my 50-200 is solid but a big heavy lump to lug around I have replaced it with a folding rubber one 67mm does the job
 
RedRobin said:
.... You need to double check which one but some of the Canon lens hoods and also Fotodiox hoods are apparently a good fit and a very practical substitute for the fancy Olympus ones which too easily lose their tiny ball bearing mechanisms. Canon hoods aren't cheap-as-chips but they are cheaper than the OE. I do like the Olympus slide-back-over-the-lens feature though as it's very useful when packing - I don't often change filters.

The hood on my Olympus 40-150mm Pro got knocked on a rock while I was changing batteries during a surfer photography session and performed its own teardown into three separate components and flying tiny ball bearings surfing the sandy beach!! It is actually a very common problem.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiktE5yA17M
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the black fox said:
the one on my 50-200 is solid but a big heavy lump to lug around I have replaced it with a folding rubber one 67mm does the job
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When I read of the issue with the 40-150mm hood (on DP Review forum) I went searching and JJC was mentioned but the equivalent for what the guy in the video mentions was not available in the UK by JJC so seeing another such make..........................I will go looking ;)

As for the JJC for the 12-40mm I got one and it is fine and dandy for what it is but it is not as solid a product as the original.

PS only had a quick look but cannot find the Fotodiox hood mentioned available from a UK source :(
 
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most lenses have a filter thread ,if you look on the reverse of your lens cap the size will be stamped /engraved there just order the thread size ,job done... a hoods a hood nothing special about them a cheapo one will do the same job as a expensive one
 
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the black fox said:
most lenses have a filter thread ,if you look on the reverse of your lens cap the size will be stamped /engraved there just order the thread size ,job done... a hoods a hood nothing special about them a cheapo one will do the same job as a expensive one
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Not true. A good lens hood is the optimum size and shape for the lens, and mat-black inside. I've seen cheap lens hood made of quite shiny black plastic that make things a great deal worse by reflecting light from the side directly into the lens.
 
good evening... I’m a new Olympus em10 mii owner and I’m having some issues regarding focusing. I always feel like it’s just out despite toggling. When shooting things that are moving quickly... continuous focus struggles to find anything and when it does it’s either slow to focus or fails to keep hold of it the way I thought it would in the focusing setting. Has anyone got any advice they would like to share? I feel like I’m missing something? 38629AE6-E95F-4DD3-9626-AB9F4EAECF91.jpeg
 
Roxanne Withy said:
good evening... I’m a new Olympus em10 mii owner and I’m having some issues regarding focusing. I always feel like it’s just out despite toggling. When shooting things that are moving quickly... continuous focus struggles to find anything and when it does it’s either slow to focus or fails to keep hold of it the way I thought it would in the focusing setting. Has anyone got any advice they would like to share? I feel like I’m missing something? View attachment 285983
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Unfortunately the EM10 does not have very good C-AF and will cause a lot of frustration, focus hunting and missed focus. The only Olympus with C-AF that doesn’t make me want to pull my hair out are the EM1 mark 2 & 3, the EM1x and possibly the EM5 mark 3.

Some people work around the issue by using S-AF and constantly ‘rattling’ the half press shutter but it’s not ideal.
 
mazdaman said:
Hi Robert great set of Motorsport images a question for you do you use mechanical shutter rather than silent shutter for Motorsports? My reason for asking is that I read mechanical shutter is better at preventing rolling shutter wonder what your real life experience has taught regarding shooting this type of subject
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Hi @mazdaman
Ive never really been fussed about using the electronic shutter.
The possibility of rolling shutter on motorsports shots has always put me off but I suppose I should give it a try at some point as I have actually wondered if it would be detrimental
As someone above said the only issue should be if there are posts or other straight lines etc passing in the background behind the vehicle as when panning everything within the vehicle / rider should be stationary within the frame
You cant use the very fastest electronic shutter speeds in any case as CAF only works in the lower settings (can’t recall the upper limit for CAF)
Will give ES a try when I next have an event to shoot and get back to you / post something
I am a returning member here and will probably be visiting infrequently
regards
 
snerkler said:
Unfortunately the EM10 does not have very good C-AF and will cause a lot of frustration, focus hunting and missed focus. The only Olympus with C-AF that doesn’t make me want to pull my hair out are the EM1 mark 2 & 3, the EM1x and possibly the EM5 mark 3.

Some people work around the issue by using S-AF and constantly ‘rattling’ the half press shutter but it’s not ideal.
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that‘s really interesting you say that. Thank you. I thought I was doing something really wrong. I have always stuck to S-AF so when I started testing C-AF I couldn’t understand it!
 
mazdaman said:
Hi Robert great set of Motorsport images a question for you do you use mechanical shutter rather than silent shutter for Motorsports? My reason for asking is that I read mechanical shutter is better at preventing rolling shutter wonder what your real life experience has taught regarding shooting this type of subject
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The EM1-II/II and the EM1x are far less prone to rolling shutter than most other electronic shutters as the sensor scan time is quite fast, that being said it can still be seen slightly at times which is why I stuck to mechanical shutter. The only camera I'd use the electronic shutter without fear of rolling shutter is the Sony A9/A9-II
 
Roxanne Withy said:
that‘s really interesting you say that. Thank you. I thought I was doing something really wrong. I have always stuck to S-AF so when I started testing C-AF I couldn’t understand it!
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Welcome to the fold Roxanne. I don't know about the EM10ii but shooting against an open sky, you could try using more focal points (block of 9 maybe?) - or perhaps you've tried that already. I moved on to the EM1ii from the EM5ii as I was a little frustrated by the C-Af. I believe the EM5iii is much better than the EM5ii.
 
Robbieerobstar said:
I am a returning member here and will probably be visiting infrequently
regards
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Fabulous bike images - I think you shouldn't stay away too long.

I'm curious to know if you use tracking when you're panning? I have been trying it out recently with kitesurfers, but also it seems to work quite well with cars when I last tried in January for slow shutter speeds. I think my results are better with it but not certain as it's hard to replicate.
 
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Bebop said:
Welcome to the fold Roxanne. I don't know about the EM10ii but shooting against an open sky, you could try using more focal points (block of 9 maybe?) - or perhaps you've tried that already. I moved on to the EM1ii from the EM5ii as I was a little frustrated by the C-Af. I believe the EM5iii is much better than the EM5ii.
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Thank you I haven’t tried that so thank you for the suggestion. If I use a block of 9 how does that differ from a one block focus selection?
I went to my local airfield and tried using S-AF and if you don’t mind the beeping I felt so much for in control. Maybe that’s just what I’m used to
 
Roxanne Withy said:
Thank you I haven’t tried that so thank you for the suggestion. If I use a block of 9 how does that differ from a one block focus selection?
I went to my local airfield and tried using S-AF and if you don’t mind the beeping I felt so much for in control. Maybe that’s just what I’m used to
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With a block of 9, the camera is looking for something to focus on within that block. If you only have one square chosen, you decrease your chances of managing to get the focus square over your target. You could go for an even bigger block - I'm not sure what is available on your camera. The camera will tend to focus on the nearest thing that is within your chosen block. A bigger depth of field can help.

Using a bigger block of focal points is not so great if the camera might pick up something nearer within your frame, and it might struggle if you have a busy background but against a clear sky it's easier.

You might be able to turn the beeping off.
 
Bebop said:
With a block of 9, the camera is looking for something to focus on within that block. If you only have one square chosen, you decrease your chances of managing to get the focus square over your target. You could go for an even bigger block - I'm not sure what is available on your camera. The camera will tend to focus on the nearest thing that is within your chosen block. A bigger depth of field can help.

Using a bigger block of focal points is not so great if the camera might pick up something nearer within your frame, and it might struggle if you have a busy background but against a clear sky it's easier.

You might be able to turn the beeping off.
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Ok yeah that makes, sense thank you again I wasn’t sure how that and depth of field would play together. I had it set to 6 think on my visit to the airfield which has probably helped the situation! Thank you for taking the time to explain I actually don’t mind the beep... more concerned about the people around me and distracting them with my erratic focusing habits!
 
Roxanne Withy said:
Hi hope you don’t mind me asking I’m just trying to learn about lenses etc what would be the nonMFT lens to this? And why is it x2? Sorry if it’s a really stupid question ha ha
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Our cameras have a two times crop factor Sensor , so a full frame sensor would be simply 400mm and a Olympus sensor = 800mm ,when your buyin* a Olympus lens simply double the amount shown to get the size needed I.e a 25mm f.1.7 lens would be equal to a 50mm lens on a full frame body .. there has been a lot of debate as to whether that alters the aperture to ,but for all intents and purposes it doesn't matter
 
justyn_c_uk said:
Went comet hunting the last two nights on a hill in Herefordshire with some Sheep & my E-M1ii. Used the 40-150 f/2.8 for the comet and the 8mm FE to grab the Milky Way, pleased with the results even if it isn't FF :)
Oyster Hill 1 by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Oyster Hill 2 by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Neowise Stacked by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Neowise & the Milky Way - no defish by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Milky Way stacked - no defish by Justyn Crane, on Flickr
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WOW. Love them..
 
justyn_c_uk said:
Went comet hunting the last two nights on a hill in Herefordshire with some Sheep & my E-M1ii. Used the 40-150 f/2.8 for the comet and the 8mm FE to grab the Milky Way, pleased with the results even if it isn't FF :)
Oyster Hill 1 by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Oyster Hill 2 by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Neowise Stacked by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Neowise & the Milky Way - no defish by Justyn Crane, on Flickr

Milky Way stacked - no defish by Justyn Crane, on Flickr
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Really nice set just how much nicer it would have been in full frame lol [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
 
trevorbray said:
WOW. Love them..
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Thank you, pleased with the shots, Neowise is meant to be closer in about 10 days, so I’ll be back out to try and better them.

mazdaman said:
Really nice set just how much nicer it would have been in full frame lol [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
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Thanks, if only I had a 150Mb FF to really capture the detail [emoji3]. Oh actually, it’s all good. However hi-res mode didn’t work unfortunately, everything just smeared slightly.
 
Box Brownie said:
When I read of the issue with the 40-150mm hood (on DP Review forum) I went searching and JJC was mentioned but the equivalent for what the guy in the video mentions was not available in the UK by JJC so seeing another such make..........................I will go looking ;)

PS only had a quick look but cannot find the Fotodiox hood mentioned available from a UK source :(
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.... I am living in the UK and my Fotodiox hood for the Olympus 40-150mm Pro arrived today Sunday from Amazon and was only ordered on Friday. Delivery had been quoted for the following Wednesday/Thursday.

Fotodiox Lens Hood for Canon EF 135mm f/2.0L, 180mm f/3.5L Lens, as Canon ET-78II, ET-78 II: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy Fotodiox Lens Hood for Canon EF 135mm f/2.0L, 180mm f/3.5L Lens, as Canon ET-78II, ET-78 II at Amazon UK.
www.amazon.co.uk

It's good quality and matt black inside but not ribbed like the Olympus. It fits well and securely but it can be tricky to take on and off in a hurry. It can also be reverse fitted over the lens for more compact transport. However, it fits my Lowepro backpack without having to be reverse mounted, so I would only need to remove it to change filter to for example a circular polariser but when I use those I do so without a hood so that it's easier to adjust on the fly.

The cleverly designed OEM Olympus hood is obviously more convenient to use but much more prone to a broken mechanism and is expensive to replace. I am buying a replacement to keep if I ever sell my 40-150mm Pro lens but it's such a great and useful lens that I don't see that happening!
 
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