Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

It could be you all knew this but no one told me ;), just over 4min in we get to the m4/3 bit.

 
I'm stunned took this shot of a wildflower as I liked the colour , its a couple of inches diameter in real life . never even saw the microscopic insect till I uploaded the pic .all I can say is wow
caught in the act by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
nice couple of shots especially with that messy background , I'm presuming this is the 40-150 2.8 pro lens , been hovering on buying one all week but don't know if there's enough range for what I do really .. these are swaying me though
Yes these are with the f/2.8 version. It's lovely and sharp and light. It works really well with the extender, but then you have f/4.
If you use it on a butterfly and press as they leave the flower they often fly backwards, it then looks like you caught them landing...
Nice shots! I like that idea with butterflies - I must try it.

I tried pro capture again with football yesterday. It does help get better shots if you're timing's not quite on the money, but I came home with 1400 shots instead of around 400-500 - far too many. I think I'll stick to using it with nature photographs. It might be more suited to not using back button focusing as I do too.

I think I read somewhere that in high pro capture it uses one shot whereas with lo it uses C-Af.
 
Yes these are with the f/2.8 version. It's lovely and sharp and light. It works really well with the extender, but then you have f/4.

Nice shots! I like that idea with butterflies - I must try it.

I tried pro capture again with football yesterday. It does help get better shots if you're timing's not quite on the money, but I came home with 1400 shots instead of around 400-500 - far too many. I think I'll stick to using it with nature photographs. It might be more suited to not using back button focusing as I do too.

I think I read somewhere that in high pro capture it uses one shot whereas with lo it uses C-Af.

I only tried the pro-capture high and that always changed it from CAF to SAF, didn't try the Pro-capture low as at that point (and still now) I don't know the difference.
 
I only tried the pro-capture high and that always changed it from CAF to SAF, didn't try the Pro-capture low as at that point (and still now) I don't know the difference.

Pro-capture low uses C-af and High uses S-af, you need an Olympus lens for low, the main thing is to set the number of shots it records before and after the shutter fires,for most things you don't need many for the pre-release and mostly less for the after.
 
just been informed via one of my friends that this photo has been published in todays north Wales daily post ,not bad considering I took the photo two days after buying the camera ..the water drop by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
Highland Cow taken on my recent trip to Scotland. More pics can be seen in the photo section but were taken with my Nikon :oops: :$ ;)


Highland Cattle Isle of Skye
by TDG-77, on Flickr
 
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You're flying with the em1mkII Jeff, it seems to have re-sparked your enthusiasm, great to see :)
Cheers Keith ,I think your right .. the 45mm f1.8 arrived this morning as new condition plus Olympus lens hood to
 
Very interesting mike thanks for posting .. worth keeping on the back burner for future use . Does this work with RAW files to
 
Another from Sunday morning at Steetley Pier, this time around 20 minutes before the sun rose.

Steetley Pier by Simon Harrison, on Flickr

EM1 mk II + Panny 8-18mm + Haida 0.9 SE ND Grad filter.

Cheers,

Simon.

Nice Simon one of my old buddies Ivor miller goes there a lot
 
reed warbler from today , massive crop so very pleased with the result .. spent a few hours at the wood then tried my hand at gulls in flight down the estuary with good results ,cant really knock the results from this camera so far .any mistakes are user error or not having the correct settings in for the subject to be precise

peaky reeders by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
Highlight & Shadows adjustment Page 66

Ignore other settings on SCP.

olympus-omd-em1-mkii-super-control-panel_pe.jpg

Plus I find moving the power switch to the FN lever very convenient.
 
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Highlight & Shadows adjustment Page 66

Ignore other settings on SCP.

View attachment 254978

Plus I find moving the power switch to the FN lever very convenient.
and what is that supposed to do ... your shooting so you say with a lens a PL100-400 that needs a lot of light as it starts at f6.3 the only things you need to worry about in reality is shutter speed and iso levels ..
but if you can explain any advantage in setting highlights to -7 it might help

I also note you say ignore other settings but this is NOT the set up for a 100-400 lens is it
 
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I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on it
and what is that supposed to do ... your shooting so you say with a lens a PL100-400 that needs a lot of light as it starts at f6.3 the only things you need to worry about in reality is shutter speed and iso levels ..
but if you can explain any advantage in setting highlights to -7 it might help

I also note you say ignore other settings but this is NOT the set up for a 100-400 lens is it
Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?

I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present
 
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Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?

I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present

Its not something i have used but in the right context i don't see why not, as a global adjustment i have doubts its a good idea, with my main area of interest being wildlife and working in situations were things happen quickly i would not have the time to make an individual shot adjustment, i stick with the exposure adjustment/compensation when needed, its a lot quicker for me.
 
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Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?

I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present
Are you shooting raw or jpeg? I think (although don't quote me on this) that settings like this only affect jpeg.
 
I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on it

If you're shooting JPEG, then this can help preserve your highlights but you will run the risk of producing flat looking image.

Make sure you've enabled the highlight and shadow warnings for your EVF. This will show clipped highlights in red and shadows in blue. You can also adjust the RGB values that these appear at to give more latitude. I find this extremely useful.

Hope this helps.

Simon.
 
Are you shooting raw or jpeg? I think (although don't quote me on this) that settings like this only affect jpeg.

Had a quick look at the book and wonder if it's only for in-camera PP
 
This is the case on any camera afaik. It also affects video

Robin Wong covers this in his latest video around maximising dynamic range from OMD cameras. Changing the shadow / highlight curve is one of the tips he gives that will only benefit JPEG shooters.

Skip to around 9 minutes in.

View: https://youtu.be/PIUeUOIBM10


Cheers,

Simon.
 
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Not my usual choice of Kit as I set for Landscape photography but found some other things to shoot. Taken with my E-M1 and 40-150 pro and MC-14.

Taken handheld at the Dubwath silver meadows nature reserve on my way home

Painted lady by Alf Branch, on Flickr

This a tripod mounted shot on the shore of Buttermere

Emerged mayfly by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Really nice @alfbranch - really really like the 2nd one, even if I did spend a few seconds wondering what the top 'creature' was before scrolling down to reveal the whole image :)
 
If you're shooting JPEG, then this can help preserve your highlights but you will run the risk of producing flat looking image.

Make sure you've enabled the highlight and shadow warnings for your EVF. This will show clipped highlights in red and shadows in blue. You can also adjust the RGB values that these appear at to give more latitude. I find this extremely useful.

Hope this helps.

Simon.
Yeah haven't looked into the flatness, as I'm just play around with the settings. However on a basic flower image it does retain more details. I looked at the warnings setting previously with the EM5mk2 and hated it. Maybe its time I spent a little time revisiting it?

Robin Wong covers this in his latest video around maximising dynamic range from OMD cameras. Changing the shadow / highlight curve is one of the tips he gives that will only benefit JPEG shooters.

Skip to around 9 minutes in.

View: https://youtu.be/PIUeUOIBM10


Cheers,

Simon.

Yes I'm aware its for jpg and maybe not for everyone or everything.
 
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