Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Hmm thanks for the reply . It does sound worth looking into , but at 300mm x2 ==600mm it still falls short of the 800mm reach of the P/L ..
Now to work out costs ??

Hmmm?
The Panny 100-400 at 400mm = 800mm FoV compared to FF
The Olympus 300mm = 600mm FoV but with the x2.0 TC attached that makes it 1200mm ;)
(NB of course on the 40-150mm with x2.0 TC the max is 600mm FoV)
 
FWIW to reprise my thinking of having both the x1.4 & the x2.0 TC

Depending on overall "what goes in the kit bag" ~ the 12-40mm f2.8 and the 40-150mm f2.8 are stellar performers in fairly small & light package for travelling. When combined with both the TC's the gear weight does not rise by much but versatile reach improves. If the situation of a targeted outing comes up where absolute max reach is 'desired' then the 300mm with or without both TC's comes into play.

At the moment I have one location in mind for the 300mm plus x2.0 and that is at Middlebere Lake in Dorset................especially when the Osprey is known to be about :)
 
... at 300mm x2 ==600mm it still falls short of the 800mm reach of the P/L

It does, and if you absolutely must have the reach the PL 100-400 does the trick, I just don't need it, so it's an easy choice for me, I don't use the 40-150 + TC combo because it's better per se, I use it because it suits what I do.
 
Depending on overall "what goes in the kit bag" ~ the 12-40mm f2.8 and the 40-150mm f2.8 are stellar performers in fairly small & light package for travelling. When combined with both the TC's the gear weight does not rise by much but versatile reach improves.

Absolutely, I have the 2 x f/2.8 zooms and the 2 x TC's, and they all go in a relatively small and light shoulder bag, but I still have (FF eq) 24 - 600mm covered.
 
Works out to expensive even If I buy a used lens that’s circa £6-700 then add a 2x tc on top another £400 .. I’ll stick with the 100-400 for now
 
Works out to expensive even If I buy a used lens that’s circa £6-700 then add a 2x tc on top another £400 .. I’ll stick with the 100-400 for now
Wow, I didn’t realise the TC’s were so expensive :oops: :$
 
Wow, I didn’t realise the TC’s were so expensive :oops: :$
Yep and £280 for the 1.4 tc... and there doesn’t seem to be any other compatible brands I.e kenko etc
 
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Hi all.
Looking at getting back into photography and trying to take pics of radio controll cars at our local track and at some of the EoE regional races. Do you think a em1 would be able to lock on to focus of a moving small car?
 
Hi all.
Looking at getting back into photography and trying to take pics of radio controll cars at our local track and at some of the EoE regional races. Do you think a em1 would be able to lock on to focus of a moving small car?
The EM1 won’t be great tbh, but the EM1-II should handle it. I imagine it’s a tricky subject for the camera but no more difficult than BIF.
 
Hi all.
Looking at getting back into photography and trying to take pics of radio controll cars at our local track and at some of the EoE regional races. Do you think a em1 would be able to lock on to focus of a moving small car?

Well i have never owned the original EM1 but from my experience with Panasonic which does not have Phase detect i would think

Coming towards you will be a problem unless you learn to focus on the track in front of the car and fire a short burst while the car comes through the focus point.

Going side to side i would think once you crack the panning it should be ok.
 
Hi all.
Looking at getting back into photography and trying to take pics of radio controll cars at our local track and at some of the EoE regional races. Do you think a em1 would be able to lock on to focus of a moving small car?

No, mine didn't do that well with a Tram, so a little whizzing about car I would say don't bother
 
Thanks for all the reply and was kind of thinking that might of been a no after trying it a few years back with a gx7 and fuji x-e2. Looks like it might have to be a return with one of those old school flappy mirror things.
 
Thanks for all the reply and was kind of thinking that might of been a no after trying it a few years back with a gx7 and fuji x-e2. Looks like it might have to be a return with one of those old school flappy mirror things.
I take it the EM1-II isn't of interest? Some Panny cameras have very good AF, as do the Sony A6xxx cameras.
 
^ yep, the EM1 Mk2 would do the trick, I use it for "real" cars rather than radio controlled but it's perfect for the job!
 
I take it the EM1-II isn't of interest? Some Panny cameras have very good AF, as do the Sony A6xxx cameras.

Recently purchased a used Panasonic G80, not tried that with a moving subject
Will have a go and see what its like, not really my thing though
 
The mk2 would be great but massively out of my price range. Trying to do this on a budget.
Yeah they’re not cheap :( Of the cars are indoors where light’s not great you may be better with a DSLR anyway (y)
 
They need to do something in the CA-F area, if they left it at contrast only the Panasonic G80 would outperform it.
 
Hi all.
Looking at getting back into photography and trying to take pics of radio controll cars at our local track and at some of the EoE regional races. Do you think a em1 would be able to lock on to focus of a moving small car?
Thanks for all the reply and was kind of thinking that might of been a no after trying it a few years back with a gx7 and fuji x-e2. Looks like it might have to be a return with one of those old school flappy mirror things.
I race mostly outdoors but every now and then over winter it's indoors.

That sounds like a pretty big ask from any kind of camera, assuming you're hoping to track the car through a pan with the camera keeping track of the car?

I've had success shooting full size motor sport using the E-PL5 and E-M10 (i and ii) but I don't try and use CAF. I use single AF and if I can be bothered to weed through them - the sequential low setting so it acquires focus on each frame of the burst. I'm only shooting for my own amusement so if I get a blurred image there's no harm done.

Having seen RC track cars at Crystal Palace years ago I imagine they're a much bigger challenge, unless you're happy to fix focus, shoot bursts and throw away all the stuff out of focus.

If you wanted to try the E-M1ii and you live near a participating dealer the Olympus Test and Wow will give you a free 24hr test drive
https://wow.olympus.eu/
It's still a chunk of money, there's no getting past that!
 
That sounds like a pretty big ask from any kind of camera, assuming you're hoping to track the car through a pan with the camera keeping track of the car?

I've had success shooting full size motor sport using the E-PL5 and E-M10 (i and ii) but I don't try and use CAF. I use single AF and if I can be bothered to weed through them - the sequential low setting so it acquires focus on each frame of the burst. I'm only shooting for my own amusement so if I get a blurred image there's no harm done.

Having seen RC track cars at Crystal Palace years ago I imagine they're a much bigger challenge, unless you're happy to fix focus, shoot bursts and throw away all the stuff out of focus.

If you wanted to try the E-M1ii and you live near a participating dealer the Olympus Test and Wow will give you a free 24hr test drive
https://wow.olympus.eu/
It's still a chunk of money, there's no getting past that!
 
the trouble with testing out a omd1-mkii is that unless your very lucky it won't come with the v3.01 firmware update .so may give a under rated view
 
Yippee kai adddeeeo my free 30mm macro just turned up .. all I need now is the inclination to use it
 
Yippee kai adddeeeo my free 30mm macro just turned up .. all I need now is the inclination to use it

That's one lens I regret not giving a try out when I shot M43. If I ever do buy back into the system I will get one, I think M43 shines for macro [and wildlife] - for the deeper DOF at wider apertures. Something completely over-looked by the FF crowd
 
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Seems a good lens .will try it out in daylight tomorrow
 
Can't recall if discussed or not?

L-brackets for the E-M1MK2......,?

Anyone using one and if so which make & model???

One thing I do recall reading was the way none allow for 100% full movement of the rear screen :(

However, I was just looking at the Ellie Universal model made by 3leggedthing and one image seems to show the screen at least laid back flat (open). Though clearly not twistable angles!
 
the trouble with testing out a omd1-mkii is that unless your very lucky it won't come with the v3.01 firmware update .so may give a under rated view

I'd hope the Test and Wow units were kept up to date. If not there's no password protection etc. so you could DIY if you wanted though I grant you you might not consider it if you weren't following the thread here.
A demo unit in any old camera shop might also be out of date, but then I've heard of a camera shop letting you take a camera away for 24hrs - may be that happens?
It's probably irrelevant if the M1ii is out of budget.
 
This is really a very preliminary query and I'm not really thinking of changing over to Olympus (I'm really not) , but the panasonic 12 - 60 looks like a great accompaniment to a Olympus OM1D mk2. Is there any disadvantage to using Panasonic lenses on Olympus bodies? Either that specific lens or generally?
 
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This is really a very preliminary query and I'm not really thinking of changing over to Olympus (I'm really not) , but the panasonic 12 - 60 looks like a great accompaniment to a Olympus OM1D mk2. Is there any disadvantage to using Panasonic lenses on Olympus bodies? Either that specific lens or generally?
Not much, lens corrections aren't applied though and you can't use dual IS.
 
Not much, lens corrections aren't applied though and you can't use dual IS.

So you would apply the lens corrections in your software then.... that seems simple enough.

Dual IS, though? I understand that the body has IS and some or all lenses lenses have IS?. Would using dual IS have any advantages?
 
So you would apply the lens corrections in your software then.... that seems simple enough.

Dual IS, though? I understand that the body has IS and some or all lenses lenses have IS?. Would using dual IS have any advantages?
Yes lens corrections applied in software like any other system (y). If you combine IS of the lens with the IS of the body it gives you more stops stabilisation, but there are only a few lens/camera combos that allow this anyway. As you mention the EM1-II has IBIS which is class leading, so not having dual IS is far from a biggie.
 
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