Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

[Box Brownie]

.... I am living in the UK and my Fotodiox hood for the Olympus 40-150mm Pro arrived today Sunday from Amazon and was only ordered on Friday. Delivery had been quoted for the following Wednesday/Thursday.

Fotodiox Lens Hood for Canon EF 135mm f/2.0L, 180mm f/3.5L Lens, as Canon ET-78II, ET-78 II: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy Fotodiox Lens Hood for Canon EF 135mm f/2.0L, 180mm f/3.5L Lens, as Canon ET-78II, ET-78 II at Amazon UK.

www.amazon.co.uk

It's good quality and matt black inside but not ribbed like the Olympus. It fits well and securely but it can be tricky to take on and off in a hurry. It can also be reverse fitted over the lens for more compact transport. However, it fits my Lowepro backpack without having to be reverse mounted, so I would only need to remove it to change filter to for example a circular polariser but when I use those I do so without a hood so that it's easier to adjust on the fly.

The cleverly designed OEM Olympus hood is obviously more convenient to use but much more prone to a broken mechanism and is expensive to replace. I am buying a replacement to keep if I ever sell my 40-150mm Pro lens but it's such a great and useful lens that I don't see that happening!

@RedRobin
Ah! a good find..................I was searching using the Fotodiox code and nowt showed up but there it was all along a little differently 'referenced'

Many thanks for the link and mini-review of/about it

 

[AMcUK]

I’m a new Olympus em10 mii owner and I’m having some issues regarding focusing. I always feel like it’s just out despite toggling. When shooting things that are moving quickly... continuous focus struggles to find anything and when it does it’s either slow to focus or fails to keep hold of it the way I thought it would in the focusing setting. Has anyone got any advice they would like to share? I feel like I’m missing something?

Hi Roxanne, I'm an E-M10ii user. I have very rarely used the Continuous AF with or without Tracking. I don't shoot planes or birds but do a little bit of motorsports.
In that circumstance I found that the camera wasn't very good at isolating the subject - I suspect the shape of the car changes too much and too fast for the camera to recognise it reliably.
FWIW I use a group of focus points and S-AF and Sequential Low to shoot in short bursts of 5fps.
Sequential low acquires focus for each frame, if you use Sequential High then the focus is set by the first frame, so if the subject distance changes then things can get worse (or better) over the burst with no adjustment.
I also find sorting through the hundreds of frames tedious so I try and shoot fewer shorter bursts even at the expense of missing some action - I'm shooting for fun not money so it doesn't matter too much to me.

It's also worth looking into focus peaking if you're focusing manually - it puts a highlight around a high contrast areas of the frame indicating the focus.
I've assigned it to the Fn2 button to the right of the shutter button.

Finally in Menu Cog C I have "Rls Priority" set to OFF for both C and S.
With that setting ON the camera will release the shutter even if it doesn't think anything is in focus.
In general I'd prefer not to take a shot than take one that is completely out of focus.
When the camera won't shoot it prompts me to slow down and work out what the problem is - rather than assume what I go in the EVF was OK (it can fool you) then find a blurry mess on the PC days later when it's too late to do anything about it.

 

[the black fox]

Hi Roxanne, I'm an E-M10ii user. I have very rarely used the Continuous AF with or without Tracking. I don't shoot planes or birds but do a little bit of motorsports.
In that circumstance I found that the camera wasn't very good at isolating the subject - I suspect the shape of the car changes too much and too fast for the camera to recognise it reliably.
FWIW I use a group of focus points and S-AF and Sequential Low to shoot in short bursts of 5fps.
Sequential low acquires focus for each frame, if you use Sequential High then the focus is set by the first frame, so if the subject distance changes then things can get worse (or better) over the burst with no adjustment.
I also find sorting through the hundreds of frames tedious so I try and shoot fewer shorter bursts even at the expense of missing some action - I'm shooting for fun not money so it doesn't matter too much to me.

It's also worth looking into focus peaking if you're focusing manually - it puts a highlight around a high contrast areas of the frame indicating the focus.
I've assigned it to the Fn2 button to the right of the shutter button.

Finally in Menu Cog C I have "Rls Priority" set to OFF for both C and S.
With that setting ON the camera will release the shutter even if it doesn't think anything is in focus.
In general I'd prefer not to take a shot than take one that is completely out of focus.
When the camera won't shoot it prompts me to slow down and work out what the problem is - rather than assume what I go in the EVF was OK (it can fool you) then find a blurry mess on the PC days later when it's too late to do anything about it.

That’s a really useful relevant post mac , especially the bit about using sequential low , something that I for one have overlooked ,going to change mine now to see if it improves my hit rate .

edil ,that knackers that idea cant change to low with the PL 100-400 fitted on The1-mkii

 

[snerkler]

That’s a really useful relevant post mac , especially the bit about using sequential low , something that I for one have overlooked ,going to change mine now to see if it improves my hit rate .

edil ,that knackers that idea cant change to low with the PL 100-400 fitted on The1-mkii

Why can’t you choose low with the 100-400mm, I’m sure I did with it?

Another thing to bear in mind with some of the Olympus is that if you use high sequential shooting is that you don’t get a real time view and are always one frame behind.

 

[the black fox]

No idea Toby ,it doesnt show with that lens fitted . Will try with the Olympus 50-200 once I’m up to it .eye problems at the moment

 

[snerkler]

No idea Toby ,it doesnt show with that lens fitted . Will try with the Olympus 50-200 once I’m up to it .eye problems at the moment

Sorry to hear about the eye issues.

I’m sure I shot continuous low with the EM1-II and 100-400mm but I’ve no way of checking it. But I put it on low to get the real time image in the EVF.

 

[Robbieerobstar]

EM1X + PL200mm f2.8

 

[Robbieerobstar]

Fabulous bike images - I think you shouldn't stay away too long.

I'm curious to know if you use tracking when you're panning? I have been trying it out recently with kitesurfers, but also it seems to work quite well with cars when I last tried in January for slow shutter speeds. I think my results are better with it but not certain as it's hard to replicate.

Hi @Bebop
Tracking generally does not work effectively on M43 cameras so I don’t use CAF +Tracking for my Motorsports shots
The only exception is the AI Subject Recognition Tracking in the EM1X which does work quite effectively
I did use this quite a lot but not exclusively when using the 1X but there are disadvantages to this so used normal CAF about 60% of the time
Regards
Rob

 

[Deleted member 3428]

That’s a really useful relevant post mac , especially the bit about using sequential low , something that I for one have overlooked ,going to change mine now to see if it improves my hit rate .

edil ,that knackers that idea cant change to low with the PL 100-400 fitted on The1-mkii

Sorry to hear about the eye issues.

I’m sure I shot continuous low with the EM1-II and 100-400mm but I’ve no way of checking it. But I put it on low to get the real time image in the EVF.

Continuous low works but Pro Cap L dosen't, not sure if you are looking at the wrong item Jeff

 

[Box Brownie]

@snerkler and @the black fox

Sorry if missed it somewhere and I now state what has been covered

The Panny 100-400mm (and others none Olympus) should not affect frame rates.

However, you will not be able to use Pro Capture Lo. Pro Capture if selected with that lens attached will only have Pro Capture High available.

Hope that helps clarify the matter

 

[Deleted member 3428]

@snerkler and @the black fox

Sorry if missed it somewhere and I now state what has been covered

The Panny 100-400mm (and others none Olympus) should not affect frame rates.

However, you will not be able to use Pro Capture Lo. Pro Capture if selected with that lens attached will only have Pro Capture High available.

Hope that helps clarify the matter

Correct

 

[Box Brownie]

Correct

Yup, snap.....we posted in the 'same minute'

 

[the black fox]

Nope I can get sequentsial high but that’s it .unless it’s something else in the menu ?

 

[snerkler]

@snerkler and @the black fox

Sorry if missed it somewhere and I now state what has been covered

The Panny 100-400mm (and others none Olympus) should not affect frame rates.

However, you will not be able to use Pro Capture Lo. Pro Capture if selected with that lens attached will only have Pro Capture High available.

Hope that helps clarify the matter

I never used pro capture but as mentioned 99.9% sure I used continuous low as you’ve now confirmed

 

[snerkler]

Nope I can get sequentsial high but that’s it .unless it’s something else in the menu ?

I can’t think what setting and why it would block continuous low with certain lenses.

 

[Deleted member 3428]

Sequential Low works with the 100-400, make sure it isn't disabled under the menu, cog, D1, it should be ticked.

 

[the black fox]

Sequential Low works with the 100-400, make sure it isn't disabled under the menu, cog, D1, it should be ticked.

Well I’ll be buggered your perfectly correct , now got sequential low and added pro cap high as well . You learn something everyday with these cameras ,for anyone else it’s D1 settings ,tick boxes to enable

 

[snerkler]

Well I’ll be buggered your perfectly correct , now got sequential low and added pro cap high as well . You learn something everyday with these cameras ,for anyone else it’s D1 settings ,tick boxes to enable

Cool, glad you got it sorted. I assume that must have been the same for all lenses and not just the 100-400mm though and you'd just not noticed?

 

[mazdaman]

Well if its to be believed 150-400 yours for £8500

https://www.oehling.cz/olympus-mzui...news&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-07-13

 

[RedRobin]

Hey guys! R T F M !! Lots of info in the PDF manuals.

For example, for Pro Capture on the E-M1X you can select either Pro Capture Low (L) or High (H).

L shoots at up to 18 fps and H at up to 60 fps.

"Four Thirds and third-party Micro Four Thirds lenses cannot be used in L (Pro Capture Low) mode." There are also aperture restrictions.

A lot of professional wildlife Olympus photographers shoot in Pro Capture by default < Something I learnt recently and am going to start trying out.

 

[Joe94]

Hello I wondered if anyone could offer some advice with the following...

I am new to the world of post processing & have an OMD-EM 5 mark III & wondered if anyone could offer any hints or tips for a starting point of adjustments or presets to use on import of my raw files into Lightroom Classic/CC, to give a good starting point to bring out the colours to which I can then either export as is or make finer individual adjustments if needed?

Many thanks in advance

 

[RedRobin]

Well if its to be believed 150-400 yours for £8500

https://www.oehling.cz/olympus-mzui...news&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-07-13

.... No I don't believe that Czech site - I have just spoken to Olympus UK and they don't know where that is coming from! They don't have any price indications yet themselves!

So ignore it !!! Unfortunately it's going to generate all sorts of internet discussion rumours which are a waste of everybody's time and are utterly unreliable.

 

[RedRobin]

Hello I wondered if anyone could offer some advice with the following...

I am new to the world of post processing & have an OMD-EM 5 mark III & wondered if anyone could offer any hints or tips for a starting point of adjustments or presets to use on import of my raw files into Lightroom Classic/CC, to give a good starting point to bring out the colours to which I can then either export as is or make finer individual adjustments if needed?

Many thanks in advance

.... You might start off by setting your own default White Balance (colour temperature) style in-camera and then only needing to adjust it occasionally when in RAW post-processing.

I don't use Lightroom but Capture One and so can't help further.

 

[mazdaman]

.... No I don't believe that Czech site - I have just spoken to Olympus UK and they don't know where that is coming from! They don't have any price indications yet themselves!

So ignore it !!! Unfortunately it's going to generate all sorts of internet discussion rumours which are a waste of time and utterly unreliable.

Just a bunch of speculators Robin same with the recent Canon launch of the R5 some "reliable source" two weeks before the launch came up with a RRP which was way off and I think this price is also way off as well Given how far the potential launch date is still away there will be more of these so called sites claiming the selling price.

 

[Deleted member 3428]

Well if its to be believed 150-400 yours for £8500

https://www.oehling.cz/olympus-mzui...news&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-07-13

Do I really need to spend £8500 to post a few photos on here.........No.

 

[the black fox]

Hello I wondered if anyone could offer some advice with the following...

I am new to the world of post processing & have an OMD-EM 5 mark III & wondered if anyone could offer any hints or tips for a starting point of adjustments or presets to use on import of my raw files into Lightroom Classic/CC, to give a good starting point to bring out the colours to which I can then either export as is or make finer individual adjustments if needed?

Many thanks in advance

in your camera menu you can select a colour profile i.e vivid/muted/standard etc which although meant for j.pegs will carry over when importing to L/R use that as a base line ,also in menu select keep colours warm . if your using classic CC just then select AUTO and it will do what it thinks is right for the photo . all you have to do then is play with the sliders to adjust clarity /vibrance etc the only way to get it right IMHO is to practice till your fully at one with the system .. it really does fall into place quickly ..
I would also suggest that you download a trial version of topaz de-noise Ai which will help remove any noise and also sharpen the pics .

 

[the black fox]

Cool, glad you got it sorted. I assume that must have been the same for all lenses and not just the 100-400mm though and you'd just not noticed?

looks that way toby gonna check the mk1 in a bit to

 

[jerry12953]

in your camera menu you can select a colour profile i.e vivid/muted/standard etc which although meant for j.pegs will carry over when importing to L/R use that as a base line ,also in menu select keep colours warm . if your using classic CC just then select AUTO and it will do what it thinks is right for the photo . all you have to do then is play with the sliders to adjust clarity /vibrance etc the only way to get it right IMHO is to practice till your fully at one with the system .. it really does fall into place quickly ..
I would also suggest that you download a trial version of topaz de-noise Ai which will help remove any noise and also sharpen the pics .

The first part of your answer is very interesting, Jeff. I was wondering if there was a way of livening my EM1.2 RAW files up because they can be SO drab, especially landscapes. For some reason wildlife files seem to be fine! But my understanding was that RAW files are just that. They have no processing applied to them at all. Wouldn't selecting "vivid" be - in effect - a form of processing?

And ref: Topaz denoise AI,, being the sceptical type that I am I've done some more testing and I think I can now agree with you that it really does work! But each file takes forever on my ancient old PC which seesm to deal with everything else pretty well. Have you noticed the File size ofn a fully sharpened and de-noised EM1.2 file?

Incidentally, i'm now on my second free 30-day trial. (For the skinflints among us. )

 

[RedRobin]

Just a bunch of speculators Robin same with the recent Canon launch of the R5 some "reliable source" two weeks before the launch cam up with a RRP which was way off and I think this price is also way off as well Given how far the potential launch date is still away there will be more of these so called sites claiming the selling price.

.... Regardless of what the RRP turns out to be when Olympus officially launch their ED 150-400mm+1.4x Pro, whereas on hearing of its future availability I was fairly convinced that I would be buying one and could even sell my ED 300mm F/4 Pro to help fund it. However, that was before I had experience of shooting my ED 300mm with either of the MC-14 or MC-20 teleconverters.

In the field I most often shoot with the 300mm+1.4x (840mm equivalent) on one body and 40-150mm+2x (160-600mm equivalent) on my other body and can do so easily without taking a tripod. Occasionally but not often, I will shoot with the 2x on my 300mm consequently giving an equivalent reach of 1200mm and then, if I am needing to maintain the same handheld shooting position, I need to use my tripod solely because of the physical strain.

So what I'm on about is that the yet-to-be-priced Olympus 150-400mm+1.4x Pro is surely going to be heavier than the 300mm+2x* combo and therefore, certainly in my case, need a tripod carried in the field. Professional wildlife photographer and Olympus visionary Brooke Bartleson never takes a tripod but is hot for the 150-400mm - By her own admission she is not physically strong although she climbs over rocks pretty well! Olympus visionary and pro Tesni Ward, being an ex Team GB Olympics javelin chucker is physically very strong and so I'm sure would have no problem. For me, the 150-400mm would be too much to carry on walkabout, especially as I always want an extra lens + body at hand, but it would be great for shooting from hides. But using hides doesn't happen often enough to justify the cost.

So I doubt if I am going to be interested in buying the yet-to-be-launched 150-400mm anyway. I'd love a go on it though! Hire it for my next Bears in Finland trip if it happens?

* The 300mm+2x combo does not compromise image quality. As I have reported before, together with friend professional Guy Edwardes, we have directly compared in post-processing exactly the same shot of the same target taken at exactly the same time with his Canon 1DX-2 + EF 600mm II combo, each of us on tripods. For him to say he is very impressed is high praise indeed!

 

[jerry12953]

Hello I wondered if anyone could offer some advice with the following...

I am new to the world of post processing & have an OMD-EM 5 mark III & wondered if anyone could offer any hints or tips for a starting point of adjustments or presets to use on import of my raw files into Lightroom Classic/CC, to give a good starting point to bring out the colours to which I can then either export as is or make finer individual adjustments if needed?

Many thanks in advance

What I sometimes suggest to people (although I didn't do it myself) is that you set the camera to RAW + JPEG . That way you get a RAW file which is like your digital negative and a JPEG where your camera has done all the processing according to the parameters that have been set for it.

The JPEG will show you what the potential of the file is, and you can process the RAW file with the aim of matching the JPEG. As you go further along the learning curve you may decide that - actually - you don't like the JPEG's in some respect and you can begin to proceess the RAW file slightly differently according to your own preferences. There so much you can do in Lightroom and it will take you years to master it all.....and perhaps you never will.

 

[Joe94]

.... You might start off by setting your own default White Balance (colour temperature) style in-camera and then only needing to adjust it occasionally when in RAW post-processing.

I don't use Lightroom but Capture One and so can't help further.

in your camera menu you can select a colour profile i.e vivid/muted/standard etc which although meant for j.pegs will carry over when importing to L/R use that as a base line ,also in menu select keep colours warm . if your using classic CC just then select AUTO and it will do what it thinks is right for the photo . all you have to do then is play with the sliders to adjust clarity /vibrance etc the only way to get it right IMHO is to practice till your fully at one with the system .. it really does fall into place quickly ..
I would also suggest that you download a trial version of topaz de-noise Ai which will help remove any noise and also sharpen the pics .

What I sometimes suggest to people (although I didn't do it myself) is that you set the camera to RAW + JPEG . That way you get a RAW file which is like your digital negative and a JPEG where your camera has done all the processing according to the parameters that have been set for it.

The JPEG will show you what the potential of the file is, and you can process the RAW file with the aim of matching the JPEG. As you go further along the learning curve you may decide that - actually - you don't like the JPEG's in some respect and you can begin to proceess the RAW file slightly differently according to your own preferences. There so much you can do in Lightroom and it will take you years to master it all.....and perhaps you never will.

Thank you all for your tips & advice, very helpful and much appreciated.

I will take a look at everything you have mentioned and as you say apart from this, I think it will be a matter of playing around with the software to get something that I am happy with, to which I could then use as my own import preset.

Cheers,
Joe

 

[AMcUK]

I am new to the world of post processing & have an OMD-EM 5 mark III & wondered if anyone could offer any hints or tips for a starting point of adjustments or presets to use on import of my raw files into Lightroom Classic/CC, to give a good starting point to bring out the colours to which I can then either export as is or make finer individual adjustments if needed?

Many thanks in advance

if your using classic CC just then select AUTO and it will do what it thinks is right for the photo . all you have to do then is play with the sliders to adjust clarity /vibrance etc the only way to get it right IMHO is to practice till your fully at one with the system .. it really does fall into place quickly ..

As the black fox suggests - I have Lightroom 6.14 (the last perpetual licence) and my Import process includes letting Lightroom process on AUTO.
It gives me a good starting point, it usually seems to add +1 EV which is more than I think they need.
It's also fond of dropping contrast more than I like.
A boost to shadows often yields and improvement as does a slight increase in vibrance and saturation.

What I sometimes suggest to people (although I didn't do it myself) is that you set the camera to RAW + JPEG . That way you get a RAW file which is like your digital negative and a JPEG where your camera has done all the processing according to the parameters that have been set for it.

I shoot RAW+JPEG. Mainly so I have a quick and easy thing to share straight away over WiFi.
As a rule I'm processing almost everything these days, even if I'm just micro adjusting a horizon but it's worth it (to me) to have the JPEG too.

If you're shooting RAW only then you can always run them through Olympus Workspace to see what the camera would have done as the algorithms are the same.
It's a lot slower on my machine than lightroom but it's a big improvement on Olympus Viewer 3.
It's a free download, you just need a valid serial number from an Olympus Camera.

 

[the black fox]

I might be wrong ,but although we shoot in raw ,and the reason I have made the above suggestion ( which I use myself) the camera rear screen generates a j.peg view to look at ,it’s not a raw file review all that info is hidden . As far as I’m aware when you import to lightroom That same image is imported viewed on screen . It’s only changed once you start to process it. I.e try making the same adjustments to a j.peg it can’t be done ..
so what your viewing after import is how the computer views the camera generated picture . Which is pretty basic .. and it also shows why there no point in shooting raw +j.peg waste of time and space ..
I often use Auto as a start point but gentle use of the sliders helps the most and take care your not generating noise with to much use .. ... I’m quite sure someone will post a lengthy boring reason as to how it works in reality ,this is just a basic K.I.S.S overview

As for topaz yes I’m Afraid its Power hungry and I have heard reports of it running slow on older p.c‘s time to upgrade ??

 

[snerkler]

in your camera menu you can select a colour profile i.e vivid/muted/standard etc which although meant for j.pegs will carry over when importing to L/R use that as a base line ,also in menu select keep colours warm . if your using classic CC just then select AUTO and it will do what it thinks is right for the photo . all you have to do then is play with the sliders to adjust clarity /vibrance etc the only way to get it right IMHO is to practice till your fully at one with the system .. it really does fall into place quickly ..
I would also suggest that you download a trial version of topaz de-noise Ai which will help remove any noise and also sharpen the pics .

This is not gospel but how I understand it. Raw files are just that, raw and no 'jpeg' settings should be carried over. Unless LR has changed it defaults to an adobe profile by default and not one of the Olympus ones, however even if you import with an Olympus profile it's still profile that Adobe have created to match as closely as possible to the Olympus one (or whatever other brand you are using), and this is one reason why the raws don't look exactly the same as jpegs in terms of colours etc.

I'm not a fan of the auto function as it tends to over do it for my tastes.

The first part of your answer is very interesting, Jeff. I was wondering if there was a way of livening my EM1.2 RAW files up because they can be SO drab, especially landscapes. For some reason wildlife files seem to be fine! But my understanding was that RAW files are just that. They have no processing applied to them at all. Wouldn't selecting "vivid" be - in effect - a form of processing?

And ref: Topaz denoise AI,, being the sceptical type that I am I've done some more testing and I think I can now agree with you that it really does work! But each file takes forever on my ancient old PC which seesm to deal with everything else pretty well. Have you noticed the File size ofn a fully sharpened and de-noised EM1.2 file?

Incidentally, i'm now on my second free 30-day trial. (For the skinflints among us. )

Raws are drab by their very nature, although you never actually see the true raw file in LR as a profile is always applied, whether it be an adobe one or camera one. I find the Olympus files do need much more of a contrast boost than FF though. I'm sure there's some software out there that allows you to see the true raw file but I've never seen or used it.

Thank you all for your tips & advice, very helpful and much appreciated.

I will take a look at everything you have mentioned and as you say apart from this, I think it will be a matter of playing around with the software to get something that I am happy with, to which I could then use as my own import preset.

Cheers,
Joe

When I've got time I'll list my default settings for you, it might not be to your taste though.

I might be wrong ,but although we shoot in raw ,and the reason I have made the above suggestion ( which I use myself) the camera rear screen generates a j.peg view to look at ,it’s not a raw file review all that info is hidden . As far as I’m aware when you import to lightroom That same image is imported viewed on screen . It’s only changed once you start to process it. I.e try making the same adjustments to a j.peg it can’t be done ..
so what your viewing after import is how the computer views the camera generated picture . Which is pretty basic .. and it also shows why there no point in shooting raw +j.peg waste of time and space ..
I often use Auto as a start point but gentle use of the sliders helps the most and take care your not generating noise with to much use .. ... I’m quite sure someone will post a lengthy boring reason as to how it works in reality ,this is just a basic K.I.S.S overview

As for topaz yes I’m Afraid its Power hungry and I have heard reports of it running slow on older p.c‘s time to upgrade ??

As above, you never see the true raw file in LR, but I do believe you're viewing the raw file in LR and not the jpeg.

 

[Joe94]

This is not gospel but how I understand it. Raw files are just that, raw and no 'jpeg' settings should be carried over. Unless LR has changed it defaults to an adobe profile by default and not one of the Olympus ones, however even if you import with an Olympus profile it's still profile that Adobe have created to match as closely as possible to the Olympus one (or whatever other brand you are using), and this is one reason why the raws don't look exactly the same as jpegs in terms of colours etc.
I'm not a fan of the auto function as it tends to over do it for my tastes.
Raws are drab by their very nature, although you never actually see the true raw file in LR as a profile is always applied, whether it be an adobe one or camera one. I find the Olympus files do need much more of a contrast boost than FF though. I'm sure there's some software out there that allows you to see the true raw file but I've never seen or used it.
When I've got time I'll list my default settings for you, it might not be to your taste though.
As above, you never see the true raw file in LR, but I do believe you're viewing the raw file in LR and not the jpeg.

Thank you for the comment & tips, and as for your offer of sending me a list of your default setting, that would be fab & very grateful as this may then give me my starting point im looking for Cheers, Joe

I might be wrong ,but although we shoot in raw ,and the reason I have made the above suggestion ( which I use myself) the camera rear screen generates a j.peg view to look at ,it’s not a raw file review all that info is hidden . As far as I’m aware when you import to lightroom That same image is imported viewed on screen . It’s only changed once you start to process it. I.e try making the same adjustments to a j.peg it can’t be done ..
so what your viewing after import is how the computer views the camera generated picture . Which is pretty basic .. and it also shows why there no point in shooting raw +j.peg waste of time and space ..
I often use Auto as a start point but gentle use of the sliders helps the most and take care your not generating noise with to much use .. ... I’m quite sure someone will post a lengthy boring reason as to how it works in reality ,this is just a basic K.I.S.S overview

As for topaz yes I’m Afraid its Power hungry and I have heard reports of it running slow on older p.c‘s time to upgrade ??

Thank you for the extra advice Jeff, very much appreciated.

 

[RedRobin]

Hmm, I think it's a mistake to follow a recipe of settings too rigidly and it's definitely pointless to make precise colour judgements based on what you see on your camera's LCD screen or even in its EVF. It's also misleading to copy someone else's preferred settings - They have their own exposure preferences, probably different cameras and also different lenses. And you are shooting in different light as well. Everyone has their own post-processing preferences too, especially when it comes to saturation and contrast.

Furthermore, we are all viewing images on different screen monitors when uploaded and after processing. The same image file even looks different on different devices - On my EIZO 27-inch and my MacBook Pro or iPad/iPhone for example.

Every image is different - Be brave and experiment and find your own preferred style. That's how you learn.

 

[the black fox]

I’ll second robins comments re processing and screens ,best to find your own colours and styles , and also screens vary enormously although most I.macs and I.pads will more or less match p.c view screens can vary a Lot depending on make and model .. . As I said earlier like shooting birds in flight the only way to improve is practice ,practise ,practise

 

[jakeblu]

Hmm, I think it's a mistake to follow a recipe of settings too rigidly and it's definitely pointless to make precise colour judgements based on what you see on your camera's LCD screen or even in its EVF. It's also misleading to copy someone else's preferred settings - They have their own exposure preferences, probably different cameras and also different lenses. And you are shooting in different light as well. Everyone has their own post-processing preferences too, especially when it comes to saturation and contrast.

Furthermore, we are all viewing images on different screen monitors when uploaded and after processing. The same image file even looks different on different devices - On my EIZO 27-inch and my MacBook Pro or iPad/iPhone for example.

Every image is different - Be brave and experiment and find your own preferred style. That's how you learn.

Nail - head, as usual Robin

 

[RedRobin]

Nail - head, as usual Robin

.... Thanks Steve but I'm sure you'll agree that I either hit the nail on the head or I get it spectacularly wrong! I have quite a few 'Duh Robin!' moments

 

[jerry12953]

Raws are drab by their very nature, although you never actually see the true raw file in LR as a profile is always applied, whether it be an adobe one or camera one. I find the Olympus files do need much more of a contrast boost than FF though. I'm sure there's some software out there that allows you to see the true raw file but I've never seen or used it.

Olympus RAW files seem so much more drab than the Canon ones I was used to, and i sometimes genuinely struggle to get the final results I was used to using LR. At what point is the profile that you mention above applied to the RAW file by LR? I wonder if its possible to tweak it.........

From what Jeff says above it is possible to use a "vivid" setting to your RAW files in camera which will carry through into LR. Would that be your understanding as well? I do understand (of course) that the image we see on the LCD or EVF is a jpeg generated in camera and not the RAW file.