Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Oops!
So I went out this morning with my EM1 iii and new 100-400mm.
Shot 120 images of a Kingfisher - static on a perch and hovering. Problem - not one in focus, irrespective of shutter speed and focus setting, with and without converter. Have binned the lot.
Very confused and very unhappy. Even I can't get everything that wrong.
Will go out again tomorrow with the 300mm Pro as well, to see if that's any different.
The only setting I could see that might have been problematic was the C-AF release priority was set to 'on', allowing shutter release even if focus has not been achieved.
I leave mine on too. Was the image stabilisation definitely on?
 
Ah I see. Yes I believe that is what it is showing, though it shows it the opposite way around to Topaz, so perhaps there has been more than just noise reduction and a tad of sharpening.
Thats what I'm interested in, however not that much that I'd pay $66 :LOL:
 
Malcolm have you done the camera firmware update ,if needed on a mkiii , lens i.s on , i have shot with mine in bright sunlight , dark woodland ,dull and overcast .nothing seems to faze it .
So it’s either a very dodgy copy. ( first I have heard of ) or something in the camera settings .. I won’t insult you by saying user error as I know your to experienced for that .. what did your exif data show .. is your focus limiter on lens set on mid way ... you haven’t enabled focus limitations in camera menu ? ... reset the focus release priority just in case
 
You could trial it for free and then if you like it use the code that someone quoted that gets you it for $50. My licence renewal is $49 which seems expensive in comparison. I was going to hold off for a little while anyway.
I have it
 
Malcolm have you done the camera firmware update ,if needed on a mkiii , lens i.s on , i have shot with mine in bright sunlight , dark woodland ,dull and overcast .nothing seems to faze it .
So it’s either a very dodgy copy. ( first I have heard of ) or something in the camera settings .. I won’t insult you by saying user error as I know your to experienced for that .. what did your exif data show .. is your focus limiter on lens set on mid way ... you haven’t enabled focus limitations in camera menu ? ... reset the focus release priority just in case

Yes, the firmware is absolutely up to date.
Exif data is normal, and Aperture shows the focus point to be spot on (particularly on the perch shots).
The lens limiter setting is correct, and focus limitations in the menu are off.
I tested the lens when it arrived against the 300mm Pro and Leica 200mm f2.8 and in the centre it was virtually as sharp as them. They were only simple no rush shots - similar to the post you use to check sharpness.
I'll go out tomorrow and test it again directly against the 300mm in a real life situation. If it happens again at least I ought to be able to determine whether its a body or lens problem.
When the lens arrived I tested against my 300mm Pro and Leica 200mm f2.8, and in the centre it was virtually as sharp. It was a similar exercise to your famous post test.
I hope its something stupid as I planned to take it to Portugal for a 3 week holiday on Tuesday!
 
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Weird one then mal ... .c.a.f ..? I do find that with the PL I relied on single point (fine) for 90% of my shots even b.I.f ... with this one I have to really use various multi point patterns , as I have said before it seems to have brought the camera to life .. but perhaps in your case makin* it to lively .
If it was sharp under test on static items as you say ,then I would play with the multi point a/f options
 
Oops!
So I went out this morning with my EM1 iii and new 100-400mm.
Shot 120 images of a Kingfisher - static on a perch and hovering. Problem - not one in focus, irrespective of shutter speed and focus setting, with and without converter. Have binned the lot.
Very confused and very unhappy. Even I can't get everything that wrong.
Will go out again tomorrow with the 300mm Pro as well, to see if that's any different.
The only setting I could see that might have been problematic was the C-AF release priority was set to 'on', allowing shutter release even if focus has not been achieved.

Sorry to hear your story, hopefully changing to focus priority will help and with the 2xTC i think i would try S-AF.
 
BEST PRACTICES FOR NOISE REDUCTION AND SHARPENING
Unless he has updated his tutorial, his noise reduction approach in the tutorial associated with that photo, as it is with a few well known bird photographers e.g. Arthur Morris, is to use selective noise reduction in Photoshop using Neat Image as a Plugin.

He has a more recent (Nov 2019) blog testing Topaz which he again uses as a Photoshop plugin.

He refers to Photoshop plus Neat Image as being his preferred approach, and it's not clear if and how his tests of Topaz has altered this preferred approach. He does say that above 1600ISO Topaz gives better results than Neat Image, but with a penalty of speed.


Neat Image is a bit of an unsung hero in the noise reduction world, which for me, gave more consistent results than DXO Prime, but seems to rarely get a mention. The big disadvantage is that it takes more time to learn than DXO or Topaz Denoise AI, and more time tweaking to get the best results.
 
Morning All,

Today I’m going to be putting a second SD card into my 1 mark3, but bit confused with all the different card slot options...

I just want it set to essentially shoot on card number 1 in RAW then for card number 2 to back it up (create an identical copy)? Any help on which setting would be very much appreciated :)

Thank you
 
Thanks Graham, im just curious if the image is merely a representation to fit the title or a genuine image where the blurred areas have been recovered.
 
I was reading Pietr's blog about Lightroom and Capture One and it seems he takes his photos into photoshop too, so he probably does do a lot of processing.

Going into photoshop doesn't necessarily mean he does a lot of processing as there are advantages in doing noise reduction on a layer in Photoshop.

You can create multiple layers with different levels of noise reduction, and easily switch them off and on to choose which one gives the best compromise between noise and detail.

You can do two layers at different levels of noise reduction (one for the background and on for the subject) and blend the layers to locally apply the correct amount of noise reduction

You can selectively and very subtly reduce the noise reduction in small areas of high detail where the noise reduction has softened them.

You can increase the noise reduction by duplicating layers or using one of the layer modes.

And finally, as Topaz say you are best applying Denoise AI to the raw, but their built in raw processor isn't that good, you can open the raw in Photoshop as smart object and run Denoise AI on the raw without needing to convert it.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdGftWkCcv8


There may be more as once you get a file into PS you have a much more felxible working space than LR (and C1, but C1 is just a little closer to matching PS than LR).

As an aside the picture being referred to was probably de-noised with Neat Image. See my other post, I can't get the link to work for some reason:-(
 
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Thanks Graham, im just curious if the image is merely a representation to fit the title or a genuine image where the blurred areas have been recovered.
I don't know, I did watch the tutorial some time ago when it was available as a free sample to promote the course, but can't really remember anything about it, or whether this picture was in the course

I don't think its available now (except through the paid for course).

My guess is that its genuine. Good noise reduction coupled with careful sharpening can give some remarkable results.

Edit: and the tutorial is about noise reduction "and" sharpening.
 
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Sorry I couldnt listen to that video, I was losing the will to live
If you are talking about Andy's video, I agree he can be a bit rambling which you get used to as just being the way he is, but the technical content is worth it.
 
well as for topaz we are now on V2-3-0 unless there have been further updates overnight .each time they update it improves it a tad and becomes slightly more difficult . but as a general rule of thumb I finned then d selecting a high detail area for the preview box i.e the bird/animal/subjects eye and then just use your own common sense to adjust . you can also blow the preview up via the slider on top of the screen not that I have ever needed to .
but the overall deciding factor is try your utmost to get the shot right in camera in the first place ,as we all now know you can cure noise you cant cure a out of focus or blurred shot
 
Oops!
So I went out this morning with my EM1 iii and new 100-400mm.
Shot 120 images of a Kingfisher - static on a perch and hovering. Problem - not one in focus, irrespective of shutter speed and focus setting, with and without converter. Have binned the lot.
Very confused and very unhappy. Even I can't get everything that wrong.
Will go out again tomorrow with the 300mm Pro as well, to see if that's any different.
The only setting I could see that might have been problematic was the C-AF release priority was set to 'on', allowing shutter release even if focus has not been achieved.

Possibly a firmware update of the body etc ???
 
I have 2.212 just tried to update tells me I don't have a license for that update .

Rob
 
rob if you use L/R or P/S it will be there in your filters section try updating from that , unless its over a year since initial purchase .. they no longer update after 12 months
 
I have 2.212 just tried to update tells me I don't have a license for that update .

Rob

The most recent topaz denoise version is 2.3 and for early/ier adopters of it, it means the license has expired. I got it later so my license runs until Feb 2021........but it does annoy me that (do see the topaz community forum and DP Review retouching forum) that v2.2.12 still has issues for some that are fixed (?) in v2.3 !!!

PS the Topaz business model and licencing method for change but what is lacking is an appreciation that "they" should not treat bug fixes as features i.e. fix the bugs for those who are having problems but have no wish to pay for the feature upgrade/update.

NB I have yet to update denoise as use it rarely but in gigapixel had issues that were eventually fixed!
 
The most recent topaz denoise version is 2.3 and for early/ier adopters of it, it means the license has expired. I got it later so my license runs until Feb 2021........but it does annoy me that (do see the topaz community forum and DP Review retouching forum) that v2.2.12 still has issues for some that are fixed (?) in v2.3 !!!

PS the Topaz business model and licencing method for change but what is lacking is an appreciation that "they" should not treat bug fixes as features i.e. fix the bugs for those who are having problems but have no wish to pay for the feature upgrade/update.

NB I have yet to update denoise as use it rarely but in gigapixel had issues that were eventually fixed!
Interesting I won't be recommending it again I thought it was a buy once program unless there was a massive new program that is fair enough, i'm not into to this constant pay more all the time for what you basically already paid for.

Rob.
 
another one from last weekends high tides , the gull with the rat again must have about 30 + in this burst all in focus
eat out-help out by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
Impressive - Have you any tips on focus settings please
only normal common sense ones , keep shutter speed as high as possible , use appropriate focusing blocks 5/9/25/all tend to use auto i.s.o to keep exposure about right , so in cog menu E1 I set for static shots minimum s/s to auto to use for static things and if I know will be dealing with b.i.f and /or with t.c I set to a minimum of 1/1250th sec this then also allows for exp compensation ,I also shoot in aperture priority as its easier to then apply ex,comp rather than manual mode

metering is set for centre weighted but the jury is still out on that one

and I have as yet not found any reason with wildlife to stop down the lens its pin sharp wide open even with t.c . giving a lovely background blur ( not bokeh) it might need it with close ups though for d.o.f ... but as usual when out in the field it all goes out of your head and you fire away ... I initially thought I would make a lot of use of pro-cap low but this thing focusses so fast theres no need so far
 
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only normal common sense ones , keep shutter speed as high as possible , use appropriate focusing blocks 5/9/25/all tend to use auto i.s.o to keep exposure about right , so in cog menu E1 I set for static shots minimum s/s to auto to use for static things and if I know will be dealing with b.i.f and /or with t.c I set to a minimum of 1/1250th sec this then also allows for exp compensation ,I also shoot in aperture priority as its easier to then apply ex,comp rather than manual mode

metering is set for centre weighted but the jury is still out on that one

and I have as yet not found any reason with wildlife to stop down the lens its pin sharp wide open even with t.c . giving a lovely background blur ( not bokeh) it might need it with close ups though for d.o.f ... but as usual when out in the field it all goes out of your head and you fire away ... I initially thought I would make a lot of use of pro-cap low but this thing focusses so fast theres no need so far
Thank you.
 
Interesting I won't be recommending it again I thought it was a buy once program unless there was a massive new program that is fair enough, i'm not into to this constant pay more all the time for what you basically already paid for.

Rob.
I am in the same boat. My licence has just run out - I guess there will be many people the same as they gave us a grace period after they first notified us. I thought I would wait a while and update later. I understand that you can update at any time. It appears it's not an awful lot cheaper than buying again though.

I have other Topaz programs and I think it's $99 to upgrade all, so I'll wait until they've all run out and then reconsider.
 
a curlew beating its way up channel as the tide rises , with the buildings of parkgate on the far side of the dee estuary visible in the haze
last shot till next weekend off for a long awaited mini break ,before we get locked down again
so near so far by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
Just had an e mail from Clifton cameras to inform me my pre order for the 100-400 will be delivered this week to me they are expecting further stock potentially next week that is not pre ordered for customers. I am off to Castle Combe race circuit for the autumn meet so a good time to test out the lens weather looks pretty rubbish but will have the 300pro and 40-150pro plus the TC
 
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