polarize or not to polarize?

asd

asd

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hi there

i am off to america on wednesday and will be takng my gear to photograph the grand canyon (and possibably death valley if im lucky!). i have a 17-40L on a 10D and have just bought a polarizer for it but will not have time to practice with it before i go. should i keep the lens hood on with the polarizer, and is there a chance of vignetting with this set up? i am new to landscapes and i dont want to balls up my pictures so any advice on camera settings (AV or A DEP?) can i ruin the photos with the polarizer?/ should i leave it off,

like usual i have left asking this question till the last minute. any advice would be most welcome

cheers scott
 
We are going in September...so make some notes :)
 
Yes, keep the hood on with the circ pol, but make sure you can turn the polarizer with the hood in place and the camera in position at your eye.

You'll see the effect given by the filter, so just turn it until you get the result your after.
It'll make a big difference to the clear blue skies in that area and create a more vibrant image.

You'll lose some of the light to the sensor.....2 stops i think, so be make sure your nice and steady.

As for settings.....me creative hit the M and see what you can do :)
 
I find when I use a polariser, my 350D compensates for the reduction in exposure and bumps it up. Therefore, the shots that look nice and polarised in the viewfinder, look nothing like that when viewing. Do you need to underexpose a set amount to stop it compensating? (using 'A' mode by the way)

Matt
 
thanks for that,will give it a go with the polarizer on ..cheers for the advice
 
feenster said:
I find when I use a polariser, my 350D compensates for the reduction in exposure and bumps it up. Therefore, the shots that look nice and polarised in the viewfinder, look nothing like that when viewing. Do you need to underexpose a set amount to stop it compensating? (using 'A' mode by the way)

Matt
Click to expand...

Yiou shouldn't need to make any compensation as the TTL sytem gives the necessary extra exposure for the polariser.. there's an increase in exposure using the polariser not a reduction. You may find you need to adjust contrast/levels in editing to see the best results, but other than that it should be pretty straightforward.
 
Can't remeber which one it is but either the linear or circular polariser doesn't work with digital. Logic dictates that it's the linear one as this would interfere with the pixel matrix and cause bad moire effect.

Just get an expensive one - they're all circular as I recall.
 
CT said:
Yiou shouldn't need to make any compensation as the TTL sytem gives the necessary extra exposure for the polariser.. there's an increase in exposure using the polariser not a reduction. You may find you need to adjust contrast/levels in editing to see the best results, but other than that it should be pretty straightforward.
Click to expand...

Cheers CT. I got my words a bit mixed up there. I meant that adding the polariser makes the camera want to increase the exposure to compensate for the loss of light.

I wonder if I just have a particularly bad CL-PL? Its a Hoya that I bought from Mifsuds (when incidentally, the guy on the phone sounded like he was going to hang himself. Part of his conversation included the phrase "Life is just so bl**dy hard at the moment". Not wanting to offer counselling, I just kept quiet ;))

Matt
 
Thanks guys,

i think its a circular polar....hoya HMC, bought from one stop digital in hong kong reccommended by u guys i got hoya UV and polar for £38 and delivered within a in a week!

thanks i am last minute packing now will let u know how i go on

scott
 
All my circ pols are Hoya, never had a reason to feel bad about them ;)

At the end of the day, if it's a landscape shot thats too important to miss, shoot in raw and bracket by a couple of stops.....your bound to get 1 shot thats either good straight from the camera or corrected in PSCS :D
 
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