Critique Problem with colour red any ideas

realspeed

realspeed

Messages
8,003
Name
Bazza
Edit My Images
Yes


Camera Nikon D800
Lens 24-70 f2.8
Same in standard -vivid or neutral
No filter

I am having a problem with photographing red as in roses etc. This is also with my D300. Any thoughts members may have will be most welcome

Thank you
 
I get the same with my Nikons,never photographed enough to try and sort it though.
 
it is not just me then Mikew, wonder if it is the same with other nikon members. Maybe useing a filter to correct is the answer
 
Is it just flowers? Flowers can look one colour but they're actually something quite different. There's a technical explanation for it but not being a botonist.............. Back in the days of film you could get some strange effects from some flowers. I'm not sure how it affects digital but I've done a fair amount of 'flower portraits' and the odd one eg the red paeonies, can look a bit strange. That's using Canon, btw.
 
sRGB colour space can't display red properly. Any answer would involve a wider colour gamut, but that would be not ideal for the web. Bascially the day sRGB dies can't come soon enough.
 
Have you tried playing with the red luminosity and saturation slider in Lightroom (if you use it). That would bring out some clarity.
 
I don't have Lightroom unfortunately only Adobe Elements and Nikon capture NX2. Just had a little play with those editing suites. Lost a litttle redness but a bit clearer


 
Last edited:
Just out of curiosity, how do red flowers look when converted to black & white?
 
Shoot raw with dialed negative EV compensation, usually -1 EV, then in Lightroom: first shift the exposure with fill light and brightness to get the whole picture exposed correctly - this overexposes the reds, then in HSL module I lower the luminance of red and (when needed) orange channel to the point red is not overexposed, and after that use the brush with some + 20 to +30 brightness adjustment to locally brighten the reds as needed.
 
sbowler579 said:
Shoot raw with dialed negative EV compensation, usually -1 EV, then in Lightroom: first shift the exposure with fill light and brightness to get the whole picture exposed correctly - this overexposes the reds, then in HSL module I lower the luminance of red and (when needed) orange channel to the point red is not overexposed, and after that use the brush with some + 20 to +30 brightness adjustment to locally brighten the reds as needed.
Click to expand...


I don't have Lightroom
 
I had this problem a few years back, shooing a red Ferrari in a red display tent with mainly red background using a Nikon D200 at a Castle Combe race day.
Decided it was a Nikon thing, but since upgrading the camera to a D300 and a D7100 I can't say I have the same problem, will try and find the picture if I still have it
 
Yes the second attempt is much better.

I have similar problems with blue, and need to learn how to cope with post processing. Steve sounds tho he knows a few tricks................. (photo tricks I mean)

Mj
 
Try THIS other method.
 



Changed camera setting to RGB instead or SRGB and the red does come out better without or little editing
 
Last edited:
I find most Nikon Bodies over saturate the colours
 
daugirdas said:
sRGB colour space can't display red properly. Any answer would involve a wider colour gamut, but that would be not ideal for the web. Bascially the day sRGB dies can't come soon enough.
Click to expand...


Then comes the whole raft of issues with poor colour management becoming an even bigger issue :)


The problem with flows is that they also reflect a great deal of UV. Most cameras filter this UV out, so colours can appear different.

Bluebells are notorious for this.

@realspeed What is it you feel is wrong with the first image? Too red, or not red enough? Is that image processed in any way, or straight from the camera? How did it look in raw, and what kind of monitor do you have?

I've had n such problems with bright, saturated colours with Nikon, but then again, I shoot raw, work in 16bit, and have a 10bit, wide gamut screen.

I do run into problems when printing though.


This is almost certainly a gamut and colour profile issue.
 
I've had problem with Nikon reds from the very start of Nikon digital until the about the advent of the Series1 kit and D800 era.

admirable said:
I find most Nikon Bodies over saturate the colours
Click to expand...

I find that interesting as I've always found Canon too contrasty and oversaturated compared with Nikon's colour gradation and Dynamic range - each to their own I suppose.
 


David
This is the original photo just resized to get on here.

Camera Nikon D800 in SRGB with Nikon Afs 20-70mm f1.28 lens no filter.
Retook same with RGB and got this as shown in previous photo, but cropped the right hand side. No editing needed in SGB mode

As you can see the flower heads are blurred but the buds just infront are spot on

Exif details on this picture

Standard Information
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D800
Software: Ver.1.10
ImageSize: 7424x4924
CreateDate: 2015:07:07 18:18:26
ModifyDate: 2015:07:07 18:18:26
DateTimeOriginal: 2015:07:07 18:18:26
ExposureTime: 1/80"
Aperture: F2.8
MaxAperture: F2.8
DepthOfFocus: 0.02 m (0.55 - 0.57)
CircleOfConfusion: 0.030 mm
HyperfocalDistance: 27.39 m
ExposureProgram: Aperture-priority AE
ExposureBiasValue: 0
MeteringMode: Multi-segment
Flash: Off, Did not fire
ISO: 200
WhiteBalance: Auto1
FocalLength: 48.0 mm
FocalLength35efl: 48.0 mm (35 mm equivalent: 48.0 mm)
SensingMethod: One-chip color area
SceneType: Directly photographed
ColorSpace: Adobe RGB
NoiseReduction: Off
Contrast: Normal
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
ShutterCount: 3830
LensSpec: 24-70mm f/2.8 G

GPS Information
GPSVersionID: 2.3.0.0

Other Information
AFAperture: 2.9
AFAreaMode: Single Area
AFInfo2Version: 0100
AFPointsUsed: C6
ActiveD-Lighting: Normal
Artist: BARRY LLOYD
AutoBracketRelease: Auto Release
AutoFocus: On
BitsPerSample: 14
BlueBalance: 0.624025
Brightness: Normal
CFAPattern: [Red,Green][Green,Blue]
CFAPattern2: 0 1 1 2
CFARepeatPatternDim: 2 2
ColorBalance1: 1.890625 1.50390625 1 1
Compression: Uncompressed
Copyright: CBL PHOTOGRAPHY
CropHiSpeed: Off (7424x4924 cropped to 7424x4924 at pixel 0,0)
CustomRendered: Normal
DateDisplayFormat: D/M/Y
DaylightSavings: No
DigitalZoomRatio: 1
Directory: C:\Users\barry lloyd\Desktop
DirectoryNumber: 101
EffectiveMaxAperture: 2.8
ExifByteOrder: Big-endian (Motorola, MM)
ExitPupilPosition: 97.5 mm
ExposureBracketValue: 0
ExposureDifference: 0
ExposureMode: Auto
FNumber: 2.8
FOV: 37.9 deg (0.39 m)
FileInfoVersion: 0100
FileModifyDate: 2015:07:07 18:18:26+01:00
FileName: _DSC3128.NEF
FileNumber: 3128
FileSize: 72 MB
FileSource: Digital Camera
FileType: NEF
FilterEffect: n/a
FlashExposureBracketValue: 0.0
FlashExposureComp: 0
FlashInfoVersion: 0105
FlashMode: Did Not Fire
FlashSetting
FlashType
FocalLengthIn35mmFormat: 48 mm
FocusDistance: 0.56 m
FocusMode: AF-S
FocusPosition: 0x21
GainControl: None
HighISONoiseReduction: Normal
HueAdjustment: None
ISO2: 200
ISOExpansion: Off
ISOExpansion2: Off
ISOSetting: 200
ImageHeight: 4924
ImageWidth: 7424
JpgFromRawLength: 1599775
JpgFromRawStart: 1081856
Lens: 24-70mm f/2.8
LensDataVersion: 0204
LensFStops: 6.00
LensID: AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED
LensIDNumber: 147
LensType: G
LightSource: Unknown
LightValue: 8.3
MCUVersion: 149
MakerNoteVersion: 2.10
MaxApertureAtMaxFocal: 2.8
MaxApertureAtMinFocal: 2.8
MaxApertureValue: 2.8
MaxFocalLength: 71.3 mm
MinFocalLength: 24.5 mm
MultiExposureAutoGain: Off
MultiExposureMode: Off
MultiExposureShots: 0
MultiExposureVersion: 0100
Orientation: Horizontal (normal)
OtherImageLength: 885608
OtherImageStart: 196096
PhotometricInterpretation: Color Filter Array
PictureControlAdjust: Full Control
PictureControlBase: Standard
PictureControlName: Standard
PictureControlQuickAdjust: Normal
PictureControlVersion: 0100
PlanarConfiguration: Chunky
PreviewImageLength: 102658
PreviewImageStart: 25276
ProgramShift: 0
Quality: Raw
RawImageCenter: 3712 2462
RedBalance: 1.51014
ReferenceBlackWhite: 0 255 0 255 0 255
ResolutionUnit: inches
RetouchHistory: None
RowsPerStrip: 4
SamplesPerPixel: 1
ScaleFactor35efl: 1.0
SceneCaptureType: Standard
SerialNumber: 6103715
ShootingMode: Single-Frame, [9]
ShotInfoVersion: 0222
ShutterSpeed: 1/80
SubSecCreateDate: 2015:07:07 18:18:26.10
SubSecDateTimeOriginal: 2015:07:07 18:18:26.10
SubSecModifyDate: 2015:07:07 18:18:26.10
SubSecTime: 10
SubSecTimeDigitized: 10
SubSecTimeOriginal: 10
SubfileType: Reduced-resolution image
SubjectDistanceRange: Unknown
TIFF-EPStandardID: 1 0 0 0
Timezone: +00:00
ToningEffect: n/a
ToningSaturation: n/a
UserComment:
VRInfoVersion: 0100
VibrationReduction: Off
VignetteControl: Normal
WB_RGGBLevels: 484 385 256 200
WhiteBalanceFineTune: 0 0
XResolution: 300
YCbCrPositioning: Co-sited
YResolution: 300
 
Last edited:
daugirdas said:
All low end bodies do exactly that (presumably to appeal to consumers).
Click to expand...
I think you will find the Nikon D800 is not a low end camera but is actually a professional high end camera at around "£1800/2000 mark when new at the time
 
realspeed said:


David
This is the original photo just resized to get on here.

Camera Nikon D800 in SRGB
Click to expand...

Do you shoot in raw? If so, what you set the camera to is irrelevant, as only in camera JPEGs and TIFFs have a colour profile applied. If you shoot raw and develop in for argument' sake, lightroom, then lightroom will be setting the colourspace when it converts it.
 
Yes shot in RAW but convert to Jpeg to post on here but thanks for your help and advice David.

Just like to add that at the moment I have lost a lot of strength and weight due to a strict diet before having an operation. So at the moment I am finding it easier to use my Panasonic Camcorder than a heavy Nikon D800 with battery pack and heavy lens, or even my D300 with also battery pack and large lens.
This was taken in my garden

A well as that I have other health concerns which I don't want to go into here on an open forum
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top