Question: macro and IBIS

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John
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Can anyone advise on the way to use IBIS when doing macro with a manual lens? Consider a 50 mm lens, for which you'd obviously normally set IBIS for a 50 mm lens. But if you use it taking at half or life size, each movement of the camera will cause a bigger shift in the image than if you were taking at infinity. For macro, then, should you set IBIS for a 50 mm lens at (say) 80 or 100 mm? Anyone got any practical or theoretical answers?
 
I am not sure I understand your question..... IBIS to me means In Body Image Stabilization. So, being unfamiliar with macro photography perhaps the acronym has another meaning???
 
Apologies if not clear. I mean in-body image stabilisation. The q is: what focal length should be selected for IBIS when a manual lens is being used for macro? Its actual focal length or a longer one, to allow for the relatively greater movement of the image due to camera shake when doing macro?
 
Apologies if not clear. I mean in-body image stabilisation. The q is: what focal length should be selected for IBIS when a manual lens is being used for macro? Its actual focal length or a longer one, to allow for the relatively greater movement of the image due to camera shake when doing macro?

Ok?
What make and model of camera are you wanting to use such an MF lens on??? And why an MF lens rather than an AF one with MF override?

PS thinking out loud:-
Olympus have a superb 60mm macro lens so being a X2 crop factor sensor = a 120mm lens in full frame terms.

On say Canon without IBIS there are or were two macro lens of note - a 60mm and a 100mm and AFAIK the 100mm was the one of choice for lots of folk into their macro 'work'.
 
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Thanks. Olympus m43; manual lens because I like the different oof effects I can get with different lenses (I've got both manual and AF Nikon macros should I want to go that route). I use everything from old enlarging lenses to fast fifties to get the effects I want. So it's a generic q and I'm not interested in Olympus macro lenses made for m43.
 
Macro is very niche and my understanding of lens/kit choices is equally limited ;)

As TP does not have a specific sub fora for talking Macro kit and techniques I would surmise and hope that this sub fora https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/photos-macro-and-close-up.50/ would be a good place to get more targeted responses, as I would think you are not the first or only one using older MF lenses???
 
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Don't expect much good from it. Camera will be moving in and out not just left and right killing focus, and the thing may also likely move. Just raise ISO and or shutter speed above 1/200 or ideally higher
 
As with John I have moved away from using “pure “ macro lenses and now tend to try with older classic lenses that have a macro ability , picked up a couple of 28-70’s this morning .OM fit one vivitar one sigma .. one of them has jammed plates the vivitar is perfect but for £4 the pair cant complain ,also got a 400mm 5.5 mF for £4 . Still to try that out . Clearance sale at a local camera shop ...could have bought loads more to ... also bagged a couple of extra large shoulder bags for £2.50 each wowza
 
Thanks. Olympus m43; manual lens because I like the different oof effects I can get with different lenses (I've got both manual and AF Nikon macros should I want to go that route). I use everything from old enlarging lenses to fast fifties to get the effects I want. So it's a generic q and I'm not interested in Olympus macro lenses made for m43.


Obvious answer is to play! Use a static subject and a selection of lenses and settings to see which settings work best for which lenses and which lenses give you the most pleasing results.
 
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