Other Macro Show us your macro rig

I noticed some effects I'd be wary of in his video....

Tbh Alf, I wouldn't know which would be best (probably clipping it on) but I'd need to extend in front of the flash attachment because removing and adding it otherwise would a PITA.

Food for thought all this - seeing that last vid makes me less inclined than before a bit...

Paul.

Paul
I would say that Nick @GardenersHelper is the one to advise you on that mate
 
If you cant do the first one has your YN adapter got a front thread like the Canon flash (second pic).

It isn't threaded. While experimenting I used a step down ring that fitted into the adapter fairly snugly and then stuck it in place. As far as I recall (rather vaguely) I used three or four of the stronger "permanent" glue dots rather than the "removable" sort, which weren't strong enough. (it removed ok without too much trouble when I had finished with that experiment). I think it was a 77 to (something smaller) step down ring. I can't check it now unfortunately because I can't find a 77 down to anything smaller step ring. I just tried a 77 to 82 step up ring though and that fits as snugly as I remember, so I'm sure 77mm would be the size to start with. Perhaps I used a second step down ring to get down to 67 or smaller, I don't recall. (The spring mechanism fits on 67 down to 52, but I suspect it fits on stronger with a smaller size as the springs are more compressed and exerting a greater force. Presumably.).

Alternatively you could screw on the Raynox with that setup given additional step down rings.
 
So Nick, I could attach it to the outside of the Venus 60mm will the sprung clips, but then I would need a 49 to 62 step up ring that I could screw my 62 to 67 onto, to fit the flash holder onto the front as I do now?
 
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So Nick, I could attach it to the outside of the Venus 60mm will the sprung clips, but then I would need a 49 to 62 step up ring that I could screw my 62 to 67 onto, to fit the flash holder onto the front as I do now?

No, I wouldn't do that. The spring clip on the Raynox adapter would be supporting the weight of the flash holder and flashes, as well as the Raynox and the rings. I'm pretty sure that either the whole lot would fall off (spring clip not strong enough, especially if the assembly was nudged in any way, which out in the field is pretty common in my experience, and quite likely even without any nudging) or one of the two tiny plastic weight-bearing lugs on the Raynox adapter would break and the whole lot would fall off.

The setup I tried was
  • flash holder fitted to the camera lens
  • Step down ring(s) nested inside the front of the flash holder, and stuck there
  • Raynox attached to the (outer) step down ring, either screwed on or using the Raynox adapter
That way the Raynox adapter is only taking the weight of the Raynox. (The spring clip is strong enough to support a second Raynox. I've stacked two 150s, a 150 and a 250 and two 250s like that. I mostly did that using step ring connections rather than the adapters, but I have done it with adapters.)
 
My Yongnuo YN24EX twin flash failed to work this afternoon, 5 months old and had to send back to Amazon. Refunded, and bought a replacement to arrive tomorrow.

The flash has been working fine, but suddenly today, the screen started flashing rapidly (text on and off) and the NEW BATTERIES showed up as empty on the screen in the top corner. Batteries were 2 days old so I knew it couldn't be them. To be certain, I opened the battery cover and slid them out to change for an unopened pack and the batteries were PIPING hot, so much so, that I had to put them down straight away for fear of them exploding.

New batteries went in, and same screen blinking, showed no power, and I took out those new batteries, and in just those 30 seconds, they were very warm to the touch.

Must be an electronic short I suppose.

Anyway, new unit arrives tomorrow, hopefully that will fare better, and prove its not 2 sets of batteries that were faulty!

Paul.
 
Ok my flash diffuser is now done !

I am using a Goddox V860 IIf, and I have no idea if the hood I made to redirect the light down is helping or not, but it's made out of a pringles tube, tape and black acrylic paint.
1.JPG2.JPG

The lens I use is a Laowa 65mm f/2.8 2x Ultra Macro for the Fuji X system. I am using a few ring adapters and attached a piece of foam to diffuse the light.
3.JPG5.JPG

I just have to screw it in place, and there you go !
Thats my macro rig setup, the camera body is an X-T4 btw.

7.JPG

I think I should close the front of the flash hood to control the light a bit more towards the bottom.

I prefer not to use the flash tho, but sometimes it is necessary so it'll be there... just in case :)
I did not use the diffuser yet so no "with the flash" samples, but I've got some no flash handheld pics.


DSCF2744.jpg
DSCF2935.jpg


Thanks :) !
 
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I have been experimenting with bounce flash to provide diffuse illumination rather than passing the light through various materials to diffuse it. This is the latest version of the setup I've been experimenting with. The bowl is lined with a layer of somewhat crumpled aluminium foil with a layer of printer paper on top of the foil layer.


1923 Illustration 1
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


1923 Illustration 2
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


1923 Illustration 3
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr

For comparison purposes, here is the latest version of my multi-layer diffuser. This has two layers of "plastic paper" on each of the flash head boxes, then an overall layer of plastic paper and finally a layer of silk. The inner layer in the boxes is around 2cm from the flash head and the four layers are separated by gaps of 2cm or so.


1912 1
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr

The reflector bowl setup delivers around 1 and 2/3 stops stronger illumination than the multi-layer setup. From tests so far it seems to produce light that is at least as diffused as the multi-layer setup, and possibly better.

As with the multi-layer setup, the focus lights on the Yongnuo YN24EX flash heads are functional, but presumably deliver around 1 and 2/3 stop more light than with the multi-layer setup.

The light-emitting area of the two setups is similar, at around 500 square cm, so the size of the light source appears to be roughly the same size from the point of view of the subject (bigger being better for the quality of the illumination).

The reflector bowl setup covers magnifications from 8:1 to less than 1:1 with no adjustment of the setup. (The illustration below is of an earlier version which did not have the paper lining.)


1921 15 Working distances with Laowa 100 2X and two 2X TCs
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr

The bowl gets in the way about the same amount as the multi-layer diffuser, which surprisingly proved to be not much for the around 2,000 test shots I have done with this particular setup in four test sessions.

There are some examples of images created with this setup in this post.
 
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I have been experimenting with bounce flash to provide diffuse illumination rather than passing the light through various materials to diffuse it. This is the latest version of the setup I've been experimenting with. The bowl is lined with a layer of somewhat crumpled aluminium foil with a layer of printer paper on top of the foil layer.


1923 Illustration 1
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


1923 Illustration 2
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


1923 Illustration 3
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr

For comparison purposes, here is the latest version of my multi-layer diffuser. This has two layers of "plastic paper" on each of the flash head boxes, then an overall layer of plastic paper and finally a layer of silk. The inner layer in the boxes is around 2cm from the flash head and the four layers are separated by gaps of 2cm or so.


1912 1
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr

The reflector bowl setup delivers around 1 and 2/3 stops stronger illumination than the multi-layer setup. From tests so far it seems to produce light that is at least as diffused as the multi-layer setup, and possibly better.

As with the multi-layer setup, the focus lights on the Yongnuo YN24EX flash heads are functional, but presumably deliver around 1 and 2/3 stop more light than with the multi-layer setup.

The light-emitting area of the two setups is similar, at around 500 square cm, so the size of the light source appears to be roughly the same size from the point of view of the subject (bigger being better for the quality of the illumination).

The reflector bowl setup covers magnifications from 8:1 to less than 1:1 with no adjustment of the setup. (The illustration below is of an earlier version which did not have the paper lining.)


1921 15 Working distances with Laowa 100 2X and two 2X TCs
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr

The bowl gets in the way about the same amount as the multi-layer diffuser, which surprisingly proved to be not much for the around 2,000 test shots I have done with this particular setup in four test sessions.

There are some examples of images created with this setup in this post.

Nick
Those working distances are amazing
 
I decided to make my setup light with more flexibility, I use a Fujifilm XT-4 and a Laowa 65mm ultra macro lens for Fuji X system.

So I I replaced my big Godox flash with the small fuji EF-X20 (running on eneloop pro batteries). The flash is now attached to a smallrig arm that can move around the subject area. And since the fuji flash does not support wireless I had to buy a Canon OC-E3 cable to have TTL (cable that I had to cut because it was too long), and it works perfectly for me, I "almost never" have to touch the flash settings.

I gain the ablity to move the light source in 3D on all axis pretty quickly without much effort and a ton of weight ahah.

The light is diffused with an acrylic dome cut in half, nothing really fancy. I could try to sew myself a tiny reflective umbrella but thats for a future upgrade :)

Heres some pics of the setup + some cool macro photos to showcase the setup !!

Thanks !


IMG_20210707_144341.jpg
IMG_20210707_144322.jpg
IMG_20210707_144550.jpg
IMG_20210707_144406_1.jpg

DSCF0487.jpg
DSCF0529.jpg
 
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This could be of interest…

.... That looks very interesting indeed! especially as it is wireless and includes an option to choose the number of mounted flash heads. And also it doesn't have fiddly cables!

It works on the same principle as the Olympus STF-8 Twin Macro Flash but with more flash heads. However, I don't know if the GODOX is weathersealed to the same standard as all the Olympus Pro is including the STF-8. We are in the British Isles and so cannot ignore sudden downpours of rain etc etc!

Also, if you are an Olympus shooter the GODOX probably(?) won't automatically fire in sync when Focus Stacking/Bracketing in-camera like the STF-8 does.

I think that GODOX a well established reliable brand.
 
I’m really interested because it should offer TTL with my XT-4 :)
 
I'm now trying out these 3D printed twin flash diffusers sent to me by a contact,

Time to learn settings again and power ratios, but already posted a few images in the threads sown below:

i-9R9JnGj-X3.jpg


i-mFTFCpF-X3.jpg



First threads:




Paul.
 
I'm now trying out these 3D printed twin flash diffusers sent to me by a contact,

Time to learn settings again and power ratios, but already posted a few images in the threads sown below:

i-9R9JnGj-X3.jpg


i-mFTFCpF-X3.jpg



First threads:




Paul.
I really like your work done with the Difffusers Paul m8 and how you taking the time to explain things it is very interesting how you are work though things with them keep it coming ?
 
I really like your work done with the Difffusers Paul m8 and how you taking the time to explain things it is very interesting how you are work though things with them keep it coming ?

I'm not as methodical as our good friend Nick, so anything I put won't be as in depth as what Nick adds. It is a funny old process though in pursuit of getting cleaner light, and one I doubt I'll ever fully get perfect, but I and others, we battle on!

Paul.
 
Looking good Steve (y)
 
SO complete my rig (Terrible picture as I only had my phone) lens support as delivered was way too short - so I made a new one with the help of a junior hacksaw and a collection of hand files. I used an old bolt I found hanging around as the raw material - guess that engineering apprenticeship did not go to waste. I should point out it is not round, more like oval with flat sides ........

PS I will spray it black later

engineering.jpg
 
@ajophotog You are now back as the thread starter, Alby.
Much tidier than having a deleted member as the OP ;)
 
I'm not as methodical as our good friend Nick, so anything I put won't be as in depth as what Nick adds. It is a funny old process though in pursuit of getting cleaner light, and one I doubt I'll ever fully get perfect, but I and others, we battle on!

Paul.
I don't think any of us will ever get a perfect setup. As with the rest of close-up/macro there are inevitably trade-offs, and so always something we'd like to be better (or less bad). That's the way it is for me anyway. As an example, I've actually given up on trying to get satisfactory light for highly reflective subjects. I get very prominent reflections and can't see any way to avoid them. I can have them larger or smaller, more or less even brightness within the "hot" area, but I can't get rid of them. I've finally admitted defeat and turned to post processing to fudge the issue.
 
Here is my Rig just been using for my 2005 8mp 4/3rds Digital OLYMPUS E-500 as there is a 'Close-Up' Comp at Brentwood Photo Club on Friday ! WINDOW LIGHT !
52443077672_f6deaa29b6_o.jpg
LENS is my MINOLTA E-Rokkor 105mm f4.5 Enlarger Lens
 
Hi all,

I would describe my efforts as 'close-up' rather than 'macro' photography and my subjects are always alive! I seek some help with my camera rig :

I shoot with an OM-1 and have found that my Olympus 40-150mm F/2.8 Pro + MC-20 (2x) is an excellent rig as my album on Flickr demonstrates :


In this context I am seeking to be able to mount my Olympus STF-8 Twin Flash but OM / Olympus can't supply a stepping up/down ring with the right diameter to fit the 72mm diameter lens size. The biggest diameter ring they supply with the correct STF-8 profile is 62mm.

So am I looking for a step-down 72-62mm or would it be a step-up?

I realise that mounting a 62mm ring on a 72mm lens front will partially obscure the image but I think I can allow for that cropping/vignetting in post-processing < I think! But perhaps it's worth a try for the cost of an adapter ring. Or is this idea not to be advised?

I no longer have my Olympus 60mm Macro lens because I just couldn't get on with how it operates and I tried so many times. Excellent IQ but.

If this is feasible, any recommendations on a step ring manufacturer please?

Many thanks for any help or advice :)
 
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my subjects are always alive!
So they should be ;) :LOL:

I shoot with an OM-1 and have found that my Olympus 40-150mm F/2.8 Pro + MC-20 (2x) is an excellent rig as my album on Flickr demonstrates :


In this context I am seeking to be able to mount my Olympus STF-8 Twin Flash but OM / Olympus can't supply a stepping up/down ring with the right diameter to fit the 72mm diameter lens size. The biggest diameter ring they supply with the correct STF-8 profile is 62mm.

So am I looking for a step-down 72-62mm or would it be a step-up?

I realise that mounting a 62mm ring on a 72mm lens front will partially obscure the image but I think I can allow for that cropping/vignetting in post-processing < I think! But perhaps it's worth a try for the cost of an adapter ring. Or is this idea not to be advised?

I no longer have my Olympus 60mm Macro lens because I just couldn't get on with how it operates and I tried so many times. Excellent IQ but.

If this is feasible, any recommendations on a step ring manufacturer please?

Many thanks for any help or advice :)
I can't help with the Olympus gear as I've only used Canon and Laowa gear.
I have step rings from Amazon, I got a full set of step ups and downs for about £20, over kill but they wanted £10 for one so I thought the set seemed better value, brand K&F.
I would imagine you'll lose a tad from the corners, clone back or crop in?

Nice images (y)
 
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So they should be ;) :LOL:


I can't help with the Olympus gear as I've only used Canon and Laowa gear.
I have step rings from Amazon, I got a full set of step ups and downs for about £20, over kill but they wanted £10 for one so I thought the set seemed better value, brand K&F.
I would imagine you'll lose a tad from the corners, clone back or crop in?

Nice images (y)
.... Thanks Gav!

In losing something from the corners I would crop in rather than risk my very amateur cloning efforts. When Focus Stacking onboard camera a white box displays to show that quite a lot is lost and so I am used to composing accordingly and wildlife photography anyway invariable needs cropping in post-processing.
 
.... Thanks Gav!

In losing something from the corners I would crop in rather than risk my very amateur cloning efforts. When Focus Stacking onboard camera a white box displays to show that quite a lot is lost and so I am used to composing accordingly and wildlife photography anyway invariable needs cropping in post-processing.
Good luck (y)
 
.... Thanks Gav!

In losing something from the corners I would crop in rather than risk my very amateur cloning efforts. When Focus Stacking onboard camera a white box displays to show that quite a lot is lost and so I am used to composing accordingly and wildlife photography anyway invariable needs cropping in post-processing.
Hi Robin, you will need a step down ring, 72-62 plus zoomed in a little the vignetting won’t be a problem and even less so with the 2x extender attached.
 
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