Tests on 1920's - 1930's Voigtlander BESSA 66

pentaxpete

pentaxpete

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Given an old Voigtlander BESSA 66 with 75 mm f3.5 un-coated 'Voigtar' lens i found a roll of outdated Agfa APX 400 in fridge. I rated it at Box Speed. I tried most shutter speeds and Focus Distances. The very first frame taken about 50 feet away at f4 was terrible -- unsharp everywhere -- not worth scanning. Most other negatives were 'Dense and Foggy Looking' Only about 2 on the roll looked 'Fog Free' . I now have a Lens Hood found in my Darkroom. I used the supplied Yellow Filter for a couple and gave X2 exposure but negs were DENSE -- I think the 1/300th setting is more like 1/160th ! I now have it loaded with test Fuji NPH 400 dated 2002 taken out of my Rolleicord Vb. I cannot get into the lens for a Deep Clean. I cannot get the rear lens retaining ring undone -- maybe the German who tightened it up thought he was working on a 'Panzer' ---
Horse Trough -- tiny Viewfinder is terrible to line up ! 1/100 @ f8

Bessa 66 01 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

1/25th used at f16 but again Viewfinder probs --
Bessa 66 02 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
1/300th used + Yellow Filter but neg is very Dense and gives a poor Scan
Bessa 66 03 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
This is a 'Good Flare-Free Neg' -- 1/100th @ f8
Bessa 66 04 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Sky causing Flare I think - Yellow Filter used but neg is 'Foggy'
Bessa 66 05 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
I used 1/100th @ f5.6 in poor light but neg is 'Flare-Free'
Bessa 66 07 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Minimum Focus 3.5 feet using 'Open Flash Technique' at f16
Bessa 66 08 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Voigtlander BESSA 66 01 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 
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With non-SLR film cameras, the viewfinder is a guide only - always leave room around your subject and crop nicely when printing.

You have tested an unknown camera with unknown film - your exposure problems could arise from either. When I have a 'new' old camera, I will sit for an hour or so, repeatedly dry-firing the shutter at a selection of speeds. This gets the mechanism working smoothly and will dislodge accumulated dust in the shutter. These old shutters were built without any lubrication - and are intended to work that way - so do not be tempted to open the shutter and lubricate it.
 
Thanks for your advice -- well, today I took some COLOUR C41 film in it -- 09/2002 dated Fuji NPH 400 that I took OUT of my Rolleicord Vb and loaded into the Bessa 66 on frame 7. Even with the Lens Hood I got some 'Flare Spots' what a Pity ! I rated film at 200 ASA as kit was 'Old'. Rollei negs were all good. The set of Bessa 66 scanned 'Blue' whereas the Rollei Xenotar lens ones scanned 'Green'. I did some Colour Correction BUT did not increase the 'Saturaton' so viewers can see the results from the Old un-coated lens . Bright light ones were 1/300th at f14 or f16 and I metered as if the 1/300th was 1/200th.
BESSA 66 Colour Tests by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
BESSA 66 Colour Tests by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
BESSA 66 Colour Tests by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
BESSA 66 Colour Tests by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 
As you said in your first post, the Voigtar lens is uncoated. That means avoiding ANY light source in the shot. My Dad's advice to always keep the sun behind you works well with pre-1950 lenses.

Having said that, the flare in shots 1and 3 in your last post are identical which leads me to think it is not entirely (or even partially) light flare. The largest piece of flare starts at the lower left corner and rises at 45 degrees on both. Light leak or lens damage?
 
I am going to do more 'tests' today. I had a look in my Darkroom shining a torch around inside but saw NO light leaks . I HAVE a piece of Ground Glass -- if I don;t get blown over by the 'WIND today I will venture out -----
 
A torch will not help you to see light leaks around the closed back as your eyes would need to be inside the camera.
 
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