The Amazing Sony A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

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Lee
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I feel the same about the A6500. Getting quite attached to it.
That's got IBIS too hasn't it? By the way, when I put my Sony lens on, I checked steadyshot in the menu and it was greyed out saying to use the OSS on the lens. I thought IBIS and lens stabilisation could be used at the same time.
 

nandbytes

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That's got IBIS too hasn't it? By the way, when I put my Sony lens on, I checked steadyshot in the menu and it was greyed out saying to use the OSS on the lens. I thought IBIS and lens stabilisation could be used at the same time.
it is i think it means to say use the switch on the lens to turn them both off.
 
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Yes i had an A6000 and a nex7 (also nex-5n now that body was frustrating with only one dial)

While its less than optimal i can make do with two dials even if they are both thumb dials.
I rarely/never used the exposure lock or the AF/MF (I used switch it on the lens though my current lenses lack it).

So overall I am happy with it, first impressions below....



Initial impressions:

while the body is compact its slightly fatter than I expected. not the end of the world but if they gave IBIS a miss for another 100g I would have been happier.
My expectation was such a body was rather low in that a good sensor with the latest AF and this satisfies that.
I am liking the flippy screen and the AF seems to be the best for A7-class i.e. not including A9-class bodies. certainly seems better and touch more reliable than my A7RIV.

The EVF will take some getting used to especially having used the huge 5.6millon dot EVF on the A7RIV. this one really feels like a peep hole!
ergonomics wise I always liked my A6000 apart from lack of forefinger dial so i like this too. less buttons but I like the minimalistic approach. you can reassign the movie button too which is really useful for me as mostly a stills shooter.

the most annoying part of all is can't find a screen protector for the LCD :p
I use the af/mf/exposure lock switch and button so I'd miss that. Maybe it could be reassigned to a button or at least to the custom menu?

I probably will get an A7c and as I use manual lenses as much as I use af ones the lack of a front dial will only affect me some of the time. I'm not bothered about IS and I'd gladly do without it for a little more weight saving and also for easier cleaning.

How's the 1/4,000 / electronic shutter, can you set it to automatically switch to electronic if a faster shutter speed is needed?
 

Stephen L

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it is i think it means to say use the switch on the lens to turn them both off.
It has. My two stabilised lenses (the 10-18, and 18-135), don't have any controls on the lens, so I presume turning off in the body also turns it off in the lens.
 

nandbytes

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It has. My two stabilised lenses (the 10-18, and 18-135), don't have any controls on the lens, so I presume turning off in the body also turns it off in the lens.
yep its an all or nothing thing. if there is a switch on the lens i believe it forces you to use that.

Ooooh! Si thee Mam! If it wasn't for the fact that a) I haven't got any FF lenses, b) I can't afford any, and c) I can't afford the camera, I'd want one.
the lens on my camera was cheaper than both your 10-18 and 18-135mm ;)
the camera will probably not be much more expensive that A6600 or A6500 at release after a year or so.
 
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no way to do that as far as i can see.
If it can't be done it's a shame. It's such a simple thing with my Panasonic cameras as you get three options, mechanical shutter, electronic or automatic.

I do want one but the negatives for me just add up.
 

nandbytes

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If it can't be done it's a shame. It's such a simple thing with my Panasonic cameras as you get three options, mechanical shutter, electronic or automatic.

I do want one but the negatives for me just add up.
don't see it as a negative since i would rarely use the electronic shutter if i can help it.

i can see why you it may not be for you if actually use the various knobs and buttons. for me the two dials is good enough.
 

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don't see it as a negative since i would rarely use the electronic shutter if i can help it.

i can see why you it may not be for you if actually use the various knobs and buttons. for me the two dials is good enough.
The reason I want faster than 1/4,000 is for wide aperture pictures in good light. I know from experience that I prefer having higher shutter speeds than fitting and removing ND's to get the speed down.

I could possibly live with one or two compromises but they just seem to keep piling up for me and although I want one I'm telling myself I should pass on this and hope they do another with the things I want at some point, but I know from watching the A6xxx line all these years that they wont.
 
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After liking the Nippon Kogaku and Series e lenses I bought I got the 50mm f1.8 AI-S pancake and the 28mm f2.8 AIS and liked those too so I added 50mm f1.4 and 24 and 35mm f2.8's. The 35mm came today. I like the build of the old Nippons better but the AI-S lenses give better image quality, they're sharper with less glow wide open and seem more resistant to flare, better coatings I guess. I may add an 85mm then I'm done buying old lenses :D

Of the ones I have the biggest differences seem to be with the 24mm f2.8 lenses where the Rokkor has the edge but these Nikons are beautifully made and apart from the 24mm are not too far off the Rokkors. The bokeh doesn't look too bad.

Making blueberry muffins, Nikon 35mm f2.8 AI-S at f2.8.

 

nandbytes

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The reason I want faster than 1/4,000 is for wide aperture pictures in good light. I know from experience that I prefer having higher shutter speeds than fitting and removing ND's to get the speed down.

I could possibly live one or two compromises but they just seem to keep piling up for me and although I want one I'm telling myself I should pass on this and hope they do another with the things I want at some point, but I know from watching the A6xxx line all these years that they wont.
i don't use NDs either being in the UK I struggle more with not being able to reach high shutter speeds :p

then again i view this as my second body and also one for my missus to use. so i am willing to put up with a bunch of stuff i wouldn't on my main body like 1/8000s mechanical, not be able to turn off EFCS etc.
 
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I've looked and taken the same picture with efcs on and off and I can't see any differences.

I've sort of thought that if Nikon or even Canon or Panasonic do an RF style body I might sell my Sony lenses and switch but I don't know if I can be bothered,
 

Stephen L

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yep its an all or nothing thing. if there is a switch on the lens i believe it forces you to use that.



the lens on my camera was cheaper than both your 10-18 and 18-135mm ;)
the camera will probably not be much more expensive that A6600 or A6500 at release after a year or so.
To cover that focal length span? At what weight? In my experience FF lens are naturally heavier and larger than APS-C (unless you're talking Samyang). ;)
 

nandbytes

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I've looked and taken the same picture with efcs on and off and I can't see any differences.

I've sort of thought that if Nikon or even Canon or Panasonic do an RF style body I might sell my Sony lenses and switch but I don't know if I can be bothered,
Panasonic is no-go for me as long as they use CDAF

I really wish nikon or canon do something like this but with their (imo) unnecessarily huge mount and lenses, having a compact FF might be a lost cause. so far the only thing I think the large mount has achieved is made their lenses larger.
 

nandbytes

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To cover that focal length span? At what weight? In my experience FF lens are naturally heavier and larger than APS-C (unless you're talking Samyang). ;)
depends on how you compare. but there isn't a 10-18mm equivalent on any system tbh (for size and weight that is).
 
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Panasonic is no-go for me as long as they use CDAF

I really wish nikon or canon do something like this but with their (imo) unnecessarily huge mount and lenses, having a compact FF might be a lost cause. so far the only thing I think the large mount has achieved is made their lenses larger.
I don't normally take action pictures and if I do feel the need I probably do it with prefocus but for people picture the Panasonic certainly locks on and tracks good enough for me. If Sony did a GX9 with a FF sensor I'd happily give them my money :D

On other system lenses the Panasonic 20-60mm looks like a nice kit lens.
 
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nandbytes

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I don't normally take action pictures and if I do I probably do it with prefocus but for people picture the Panasonic certainly locks on and tracks good enough for me.

On other system lenses the Panasonic 20-60mm looks like a nice kit lens.
plus points for panasonic for thinking out side the box but then I felt the 20-60mm is neither here not there.... its not wide enough, long enough, fast enough, small enough lol (same reason I don't really get along with 24-70mm f4, at least that's a constant f4)
I'd never buy it really.
 
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I think the 20mm end is maybe at least in part a nod to the almost arms length bloggers. I've had wider but a 20-60mm would be enough for most of what I want and if I could resist primes a 20-60mm would make a nice day out lens and together with a prime somewhere in there would cover 99% for me as a two lens set.

Having said that the A7c's compact lens would make a nice day out lens.
 
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it is i think it means to say use the switch on the lens to turn them both off.
Here's 3 screenshots. When I enable the OSS on the lens, it says 'On' in the SteadyShot setting in the menu, although it's greyed out.



And when the lens OSS is disabled it says 'Off' in the menu, also greyed out.




And if I click on SteadyShot whether enabled or not. it says this




So is enabling the OSS switch on the lens also enabling IBIS? I must say, although the stabilisation is ok, I think my Tamron lens on my Canon without IBIS feels steadier.
 
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Stephen L

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depends on how you compare. but there isn't a 10-18mm equivalent on any system tbh (for size and weight that is).
I would get away with covering 16mm to about 150mm, with a decent aperture. Preferably in 2 lenses.
 

nandbytes

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I would get away with covering 16mm to about 150mm, with a decent aperture. Preferably in 2 lenses.
tamron 28-200mm is pretty good for size and performance. but i guess its kinda expensive if you compare it to sony 18-135mm but its a better lens too.
then there is tamron 17-28mm/2.8 for UWA side.
 

nandbytes

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Here's 3 screenshots. When I enable the OSS on the lens, it says 'On' in the SteadyShot setting in the menu, although it's greyed out.



And when the lens OSS is disabled it says 'Off' in the menu, also greyed out.




And if I click on SteadyShot whether enabled or not. it says this




So is enabling the OSS switch on the lens also enabling IBIS? I must say, although the stabilisation is ok, I think my Tamron lens on my Canon without IBIS feels steadier.
yes it works as one stabilisation system either they are all on working together or they are all off.

not going to lie haven't heard great things about the IBIS on the smaller Sony bodies (not that its much better on bigger ones lol). though i was just trying it with my 45mm lens and can quite easily shoot at 1/3s (about 4 stops which isn't bad for a body rated at 5 stops).
on the latest and greatest canon R5 i have seen reports of people handholding down to 1-2s which is really amazing!
 
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The rumor site says Sony will update som existing lenses...


What would you like to see updated?

Maybe the 35mm f1.4? The 24-70mm f4? I have to say I'm pretty happy with my Sony lenses, 85mm f1.8 bokeh maybe could be better and I'd prefer the 55mm f1.8 to be 50mm as every time I use it the thought that it's 5mm too tight is on my ocd addled mind.

PS.
Maybe up the build to that of the 20mm f1.8 I have and put aperture rings and buttons on them all :D
 
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Stephen L

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tamron 28-200mm is pretty good for size and performance. but i guess its kinda expensive if you compare it to sony 18-135mm but its a better lens too.
then there is tamron 17-28mm/2.8 for UWA side.
Granted the two Tamron f2.8 lenses - that 17-28 plus the 28-75 would cover 90% of my needs at reasonable weights.
 

nandbytes

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Granted the two Tamron f2.8 lenses - that 17-28 plus the 28-75 would cover 90% of my needs at reasonable weights.
was talking about the 28-200mm rather than 28-75mm which is also a decent lens. both are better than the 18-135mm but of course comes at a price.
 
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nandbytes

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The rumor site says Sony will update som existing lenses...


What would you like to see updated?

Maybe the 35mm f1.4? The 24-70mm f4? I have to say I'm pretty happy with my Sony lenses, 85mm f1.8 bokeh maybe could be better and I'd prefer the 55mm f1.8 to be 50mm as every time I use it the thought that it's 5mm too tight is on my ocd addled mind.

PS.
Maybe up the build to that of the 20mm f1.8 I have and put aperture rings and buttons on them all :D
The infamous 35mm f1.4 probably needs update.
Can't think of anything else that's particularly bad.
May be release a 35-50-85 f1.2 trio to compete with canikon
 
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yes it works as one stabilisation system either they are all on working together or they are all off.

not going to lie haven't heard great things about the IBIS on the smaller Sony bodies (not that its much better on bigger ones lol). though i was just trying it with my 45mm lens and can quite easily shoot at 1/3s (about 4 stops which isn't bad for a body rated at 5 stops).
on the latest and greatest canon R5 i have seen reports of people handholding down to 1-2s which is really amazing!
Ah thanks for the confirmation that IBIS + OSS is working with my Sony lens.
Regarding IBIS, I think it must be working well because I was taking night shots a couple of weeks ago on the Sigma 16mm between 1/30th and 0.4 secs and they came out nice.
 
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Review at dpreview

"Raw files are either huge or have destructive compression applied"

I've never found my old A7's raws to be destructively compressed. In the past I've followed this argument on some blogs and reviews and the better ones seem to have said the compression isn't an issue. Is it?

It's a bit of a shocker they only give it a silver 87% and yet again whinges about the menu.
 
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nandbytes

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"Raw files are either huge or have destructive compression applied"

I've never found my old A7's raws to be destructively compressed. In the past I've followed this argument on some blogs and reviews and the better ones seem to have said the compression isn't an issue. Is it?

It's a bit of a shocker they only give it a silver 87% and yet again whinges about the menu.
It isn't an issue tbh but at the same time it's a bit poor that in this day and age Sony doesn't just implement a lossless compression option especially considering it was actually available on their DSLRs like A900 from last decade!
 
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Japanese companies can be very resistant to change. Maybe someone just doesn't want to lose face by adding it... Maybe lossless and a front dial and everything else will come when someone either dies or retires.
 
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Looking for a bit of advice here.

I've got an a7iii that I use for photography mainly and I'm looking for a second camera for video that I can leave mounted to a gimbal.

My choices are:
Another a7iii - I prefer the feel of the body and know the layout well. Not sure how important this is for a gimbal and exclusive video use.

An a6600 - same battery as the a7iii, flip screen and lighter.

An a6400 - had one before but I didn't really get on with the small size for carrying around. Also the battery life wasn't ideal (though I managed!).

My gimbal is the zhiyun crane 3 LAB.
 

nandbytes

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Looking for a bit of advice here.

I've got an a7iii that I use for photography mainly and I'm looking for a second camera for video that I can leave mounted to a gimbal.

My choices are:
Another a7iii - I prefer the feel of the body and know the layout well. Not sure how important this is for a gimbal and exclusive video use.

An a6600 - same battery as the a7iii, flip screen and lighter.

An a6400 - had one before but I didn't really get on with the small size for carrying around. Also the battery life wasn't ideal (though I managed!).

My gimbal is the zhiyun crane 3 LAB.
And now there is also the A7C.
Basically a baby A7III with slightly better AF.
 
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Bob
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Looking for a bit of advice here.

I've got an a7iii that I use for photography mainly and I'm looking for a second camera for video that I can leave mounted to a gimbal.

My choices are:
Another a7iii - I prefer the feel of the body and know the layout well. Not sure how important this is for a gimbal and exclusive video use.

An a6600 - same battery as the a7iii, flip screen and lighter.

An a6400 - had one before but I didn't really get on with the small size for carrying around. Also the battery life wasn't ideal (though I managed!).

My gimbal is the zhiyun crane 3 LAB.
What do you photograph?
 
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Toni
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"Raw files are either huge or have destructive compression applied"

I've never found my old A7's raws to be destructively compressed. In the past I've followed this argument on some blogs and reviews and the better ones seem to have said the compression isn't an issue. Is it?

It's a bit of a shocker they only give it a silver 87% and yet again whinges about the menu.
I've had problems with skies when using compressed raw that disappeared with uncompressed. Banding etc and less good highlight recovery. I won't use compressed now.
 
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