Topaz deoise AI

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Stu
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Hey guys, I've just downloaded the above as a trial. If I import a raw get a huge colour shift plus a washed out image. so I did some digging and maybe RAW files are not fully supported yet so I tried to import a tiff same result

Anyone have any ideas. Camera is canon 1dxii colour profile set on camera RGB . I use canons DPP as a raw convertor and than process in PSCC

many thanks in advance for any help

cheers

stu
 
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David
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I've not had any problems but I convert raw in Adobe Camera Raw then open the file via the plug in inside photoshop
 
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Steve
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Hey guys, I've just downloaded the above as a trial. If I import a raw get a huge colour shift plus a washed out image. so I did some digging and maybe RAW files are not fully supported yet so I tried to import a tiff same result

Anyone have any ideas. Camera is canon 1dxii colour profile set on camera RGB . I use canons DPP as a raw convertor and than process in PSCC

many thanks in advance for any help

cheers

stu
How about saving as a DNG if you’re wanting to work with raw
 
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3,057
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Stu
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How about saving as a DNG if you’re wanting to work with raw

Steve I'm seriously brain dead with post I figure if you know I'm an idiot with it, it might just help you guys help me

. i've never yet used DNG files. , i'm aware of them from PSCC normally wok RAW in DPP then convert to 16bit TIFF and then in PS to complete. Does the DNG file essentially replace the TIFf stage Is it sort of the same. thing?

Davey ACR is not a place I really want to go to . As I've just said to Steve me and post are a knife fight, so i'd like to keep as close as poss to my normal workflow if humanly possible, , Thanks for the reply tough. I wondered about installing in PS as a plug in ,but Topaz say do the NR early in workflow and I'd also like to batch process, if possible, without conversion so it's seemed logical to mess around with DPP and a stand alone version ,for the mo. I might well be confused at this time,but I'm going to have a dig on Steve's DNG and see what that gives

cheers for the speedy replies both wow that was quick :cool:

many thanks

stu
 
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Hey guys, I've just downloaded the above as a trial. If I import a raw get a huge colour shift plus a washed out image. so I did some digging and maybe RAW files are not fully supported yet so I tried to import a tiff same result

Anyone have any ideas. Camera is canon 1dxii colour profile set on camera RGB . I use canons DPP as a raw convertor and than process in PSCC

many thanks in advance for any help

cheers

stu
I think I recall something like this being mentioned on the Topaz community forum here...... https://community.topazlabs.com/t/denoise-ai-2-2-0/14947

If not, perhaps ask the question there?

PS IMO the Topaz AI are not worth trying to use for their raw conversion, best is Tiff or highest quality JPEG
 
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Sorry buddy cheers for the help I was trying to process a scatty fox, I think I might try as a plug in photoshop. There IS something out you are spot on as always the exact same issue I dug a bit first before bothering you lot. :D

PS has a link in files for topaz, I bet it works fine there. some from of tiny glitch. I'll try and install it there tomorrow

Cheers for the P.S. I'm open to all help with anything post,but easily confused, I haven't got my head around where it fits with my workflow if I have one) , yet,but it seems to be impressive
 

Canon Bob

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Bob
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Topaz's conversion of Canon raw files is pretty poor IMO....flat images with much reduce colour contrast.

It probably won't help you but I convert the CR2's to 16 Bit TIFFs using Lightroom (with my own camera profiles) and then use the Topaz modules on those TIFFs
 
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I mostly edit on the iPad, only use topaz denoise to clean up high iso bird images. I’ll usually export a 16 bit tiff, from Lightroom mobile to a folder in the cloud and then load it into denoise on my MacBook Air
 
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Stu
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Bob thanks for chiming in. I've installed topaz DN as a pllug in in PSCC and now it's behaving as it should I can keep my tiff workflow and i've had a breif play , I can work and lear with it now

Steve thanks very much for the efforts. to help me, I'm one of those built to fight with computers so I really appreciate other folk time getting me out of the proverbial . Thanks mate !! I really thank i'm now sorted. I suspect from Bob's post what I wanted to do wasn't going to be a fruitful way of working anyhow But after just playing for a while in PSCc I #m good

Steve I shoot alot of high iso, the nature of my subjects I guess and also my foxes are at night ,so it's even more extreme at the moment. It's definately going to be useful for me in certain senarios

Many thanks all I'm good bless ya (y)
 
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Steve
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Glad your sorted Stu
 
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Steve it's impressive obviously I haven't got a grip on it yet. you might be aware of got a famiily of fox visiting at home. My camera is really good at high ISO but even so iso 10 000 is a fair ask, We have just been digging at what the Denoise programme can do with one of those actual iso 10 000 files, it's an eye opener for me ,it's not such much BKG noise it's the noise in the subject that it removes without clobbering the subject details. Just on very quick first impressions I think this one might be staying and of huge use to me personally

As above mate much gratitude.
 

dja

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Dave
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Here's a suggested workflow:

I always turn off the default noise reduction and sharpening settings in ACR and use the Denoise AI plugin in PS
 
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I think i'm there now Trev, cheers for the input, i'm finding it wonderful to use. so many of my images I'm pushing the ISO for SS as my subjects are largely crepuscular. It's remarkable technology and somewhat liberating, when coupled with the tools I use. :) .
 
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Jeff
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O.k just spotted this ,this is my way . First off I process my files In Iightroom get it cropped and looking how I want it to look colour wise . . When I’m happy I export it to P/S then doany cloning or eye lighening etc as required . Next apply topaz adjusting etc strength as required . . Then reduce in size for the web usually between 1600 to 1800 pixels on longest edge .. Apply copyright ..job done .. should tak3 about 3 minutes per pic .
 
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I think i'm there now Trev, cheers for the input, i'm finding it wonderful to use. so many of my images I'm pushing the ISO for SS as my subjects are largely crepuscular. It's remarkable technology and somewhat liberating, when coupled with the tools I use. :) .
I also have a trial of the software, I still have not decided if I should buy. Work has been busier than usual during these difficult times, not that I am complaining.

Do you tend to keep to the auto function or take control yourself?

Are you happy with the loss of detail? (perhaps there is very little from what you say above)
 
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3,057
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Stu
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Jeff, I start else where in dpp but yes that's pretty much where I am at, lol it will never take me three minutes, but hey that's me I wish:D.

Brentor Jeff above .."black fox".has forgotton more about toggin than I'll ever know,seek his thoughts over mine. bro (y)

For me someone not terribly gifted with post it's been a god send and something of a revelation. No I do not use the auto mainly AI clear, but with only a few controls and a constant way to keep updating, appraising adding in one slider at a time , it's iindispensiible to me already. If I can get my head around it most can.

Buddy i'm making images of foxes in my garden under continuous lights, there's a thread in the talk nature section. Most of those fox images are ISO 16000. topaz is a good part of why they look like they do FF nice body accepting I'm more asking you to look because they are so extreme you can jugde better than my words there

Topaz denoise allows me to get most of the noise out of my subject that's the key thing for me.

"B" what I've been doing is extreme shooting at night, so it's pushing everything. But as above I make images of roe and hares and the blumming things are active when the light falls, so I regularly shoot at higher iso. it's a really practical addition to my work flow that I'd recommend to anyone. you aren't loosing detail as far as I can see. I'd stand corrected but it's recovering details for me if I use it " well", of at least puts the frame in a place where I can work in more detail easily.

Buddy I stress my post processing skillsare not great, there are many more gifted here than I I've had time I'm stuck here, i've hammered it a bit ,I am very slow with things like this !!

but my very humble opinion it rocks bro, simple as..............

buy it................ learn it !! ;)
 
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Jeff, I start else where in dpp but yes that's pretty much where I am at, lol it will never take me three minutes, but hey that's me I wish:D.

Brentor Jeff above .."black fox".has forgotton more about toggin than I'll ever know,seek his thoughts over mine. bro (y)

For me someone not terribly gifted with post it's been a god send and something of a revelation. No I do not use the auto mainly AI clear, but with only a few controls and a constant way to keep updating, appraising adding in one slider at a time , it's iindispensiible to me already. If I can get my head around it most can.

Buddy i'm making images of foxes in my garden under continuous lights, there's a thread in the talk nature section. Most of those fox images are ISO 16000. topaz is a good part of why they look like they do FF nice body accepting I'm more asking you to look because they are so extreme you can jugde better than my words there

Topaz denoise allows me to get most of the noise out of my subject that's the key thing for me.

"B" what I've been doing is extreme shooting at night, so it's pushing everything. But as above I make images of roe and hares and the blumming things are active when the light falls, so I regularly shoot at higher iso. it's a really practical addition to my work flow that I'd recommend to anyone. you aren't loosing detail as far as I can see. I'd stand corrected but it's recovering details for me if I use it " well", of at least puts the frame in a place where I can work in more detail easily.

Buddy I stress my post processing skillsare not great, there are many more gifted here than I I've had time I'm stuck here, i've hammered it a bit ,I am very slow with things like this !!

but my very humble opinion it rocks bro, simple as..............

buy it................ learn it !! ;)
Thanks for the detailed response, very helpful. Please do not underestimate yourself, I enjoy your pictures, you have talent and good fieldcraft. There is always somebody better, in my case far too many people, but I enjoy it.
 
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Stu
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Very kind words cheers thank you

, Bren post is a real fight for me, I think some of us are just made that way, it wouldn't sit well with me if you didn't know that, Forgive me I didn't think you would be aware of my images.

So there are caviats with me helping you...........,, I've always been taught to get a sharp image by raising Ss and pushing ISO, to worry about noise as secondary facet almost. The denoise programe has made that way of thinking suddenly fall into place for me . .I think that's the best way for me to get over how useful it is and why I'd recomend you buying. Using the words " game changer" is something I wouldn't do lightly, but that's how this has been for me

take care

stu
 
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6,761
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Russ
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Anyone have any ideas?
Hi Stu, I'm late to the party as usual :D, but here's my ideas:
- Topaz DeNoise AI is a great tool in my opinion when used carefully and not over-doing it!
- processing can be a slow(ish) process depending on the processing power of your computer.
- some links and advice here and on the web refer to different Topaz products and perhaps older versions of Topaz Denoise AI - so care must be taken to check the info.

I use the latest version of Topaz DeNoise AI as a plug-in with Lightroom CC and have the following workflow for my Raw images:

1. import Raw image into LR and correct colour temperature and apply any lens corrections only.
2. remove any sharpening and noise reduction that LR automatically applies.
3. crop minimally.
4. Import into Topaz DeNoise AI (settings: Tiff/ ProPhotoRGB/ 16 bits/ 300/ no compression), and apply "Auto Detect Settings". Let Topaz do it's work automatically
5. selectively mask the image, if required.
6. save the TIFF image to LR.
7. now do the majority of your post processing work on this TIFF image in LR.
8. export as a Jpeg without applying any additional sharpening.

For me the most important thing is to use the noise reduction and sharpening tools within Topaz Denoise AI before any major image manipulation in Lightroom (or PS)!

Just my thoughts, mate :)

Russ
 
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3,057
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Stu
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You are indeed my friend ,around a month late actually :LOL: Don't worry Russ always welcome, thanks for taking the time buddy.

Jees Russ I took my first fox pic exactly a month ago, wow, alot happened in those few weeks. I have used thisalot in that time frame

Buddy apart from me starting in DPP where I sort WB EXP maybe dust delete data or clone, and pull the NR sliders back especially luma

I pretty much then work the same 16bit TIFf into PSCC copy layer then topaz then other jobs in PS


The thing we seem to do differently is I'm not using auto, I feel I can get more from it . with the sliders

Russ with some of the very high ISO stuff, i'll come back at the end and I'll separate subject and bkg and do another passs of sharps and NR, but using PS not topaz after resize to output.

Denoise gives me this lovely clean base file that is really great to use as a foundation for the other things i'll do in PS. I like this Russ will def buy in the next few days


thanks for the above I'm pretty much there now having spent hours playing with this, these last weeks, it's liberating Russ, allows me to push that bit further into the dark.:)

take care
 
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I went to a kingfisher workshop last weekend and had to shoot at higher iso’s than I would normally so I bought Topaz Denoise AI. My cameras and lenses are good but not in the same league as the current ranges. However they are still very capable and I have to say, that for someone who tries to minimise processing, Denoise is very good.
 
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Jeff
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It’s been updated 3 times this week ,the latest version seems to have helped with the sharpening side of things ... please don’t forget you still need a good photo as a starter ,the old adage about silk purses still applies . .its now V.2.2.5
 
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279
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Hi Stu, I'm late to the party as usual :D, but here's my ideas:
- Topaz DeNoise AI is a great tool in my opinion when used carefully and not over-doing it!
- processing can be a slow(ish) process depending on the processing power of your computer.
- some links and advice here and on the web refer to different Topaz products and perhaps older versions of Topaz Denoise AI - so care must be taken to check the info.

I use the latest version of Topaz DeNoise AI as a plug-in with Lightroom CC and have the following workflow for my Raw images:

1. import Raw image into LR and correct colour temperature and apply any lens corrections only.
2. remove any sharpening and noise reduction that LR automatically applies.
3. crop minimally.
4. Import into Topaz DeNoise AI (settings: Tiff/ ProPhotoRGB/ 16 bits/ 300/ no compression), and apply "Auto Detect Settings". Let Topaz do it's work automatically
5. selectively mask the image, if required.
6. save the TIFF image to LR.
7. now do the majority of your post processing work on this TIFF image in LR.
8. export as a Jpeg without applying any additional sharpening.

For me the most important thing is to use the noise reduction and sharpening tools within Topaz Denoise AI before any major image manipulation in Lightroom (or PS)!

Just my thoughts, mate :)

Russ

Apologies for the hijack. If I follow the above workflow I am finding that when I try to edit the TIFF file in LR ie step 7, with say auto adjust exposure, highlights etc, I get a blue screen in the picture part of the screen and I need to restart LR to see the effect.

My all in one pc is not super fast, it has a ssd drive and only has a basic graphics chip but it is reasonably good and without going through denoise it is quick with LR and PS. If I use denoise at the end of the process there are also no issues other than it taking a long time eg 1 min. Both LR and denoise are up to date with updates.

Any suggestions, excluding buying a new pc.
 
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6,761
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Russ
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If I follow the above workflow I am finding that when I try to edit the TIFF file in LR ie step 7, with say auto adjust exposure, highlights etc, I get a blue screen in the picture part of the screen and I need to restart LR to see the effect.
- I've never experienced what you describe here, and my 10 year old Desktop PC struggles, but copes eventually with the large TIFF files, so I don't think your all-in-one is the problem. I manually adjust the exposure, highlights etc on the TIFF file back in LRCC (whereas you say you auto adjust) but I wouldn't think that's the source of your problem either. Sorry, I've drawn a blank with this one!1

Russ :)
 
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Fascinating thread, shows how half the art is using the right tool in the right way and at the right time. One sometimes assumes software is infallible and must be right....!
 
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- I've never experienced what you describe here, and my 10 year old Desktop PC struggles, but copes eventually with the large TIFF files, so I don't think your all-in-one is the problem. I manually adjust the exposure, highlights etc on the TIFF file back in LRCC (whereas you say you auto adjust) but I wouldn't think that's the source of your problem either. Sorry, I've drawn a blank with this one!1

Russ :)
In case anyone has the same problem, change the graphics card settings in LR ie turn it off. Easy when you find the solution but worrying beforehand.
 
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