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what fstop do you use for focus stacking?
- Thread starter Bollygum
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DG Phototraining
Woof
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- Dave
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Whatever is the lens' sharpest aperture, generally that's around f8 but as it might not be I can't add to your poll
Anytime I've done it its been in the field, but I can't see how that differs from being in the studio
Mine has typically been 3-5 shots, the macro chaps may well combine hundreds !!!
Dave
Anytime I've done it its been in the field, but I can't see how that differs from being in the studio
Mine has typically been 3-5 shots, the macro chaps may well combine hundreds !!!
Dave
I have answered f5.6 or less, but it will all depend on the subject etc. this is both in the field and in the studio.
I often work in the field using helicon remote running on an Android Tablet, in the studio often helicon remote with the camera on a rail.
Also when working in the field I will often add an image at the start and end of the stack at an aperture of f11 or f16 for a more natural transition to OOF, these are only added into the stack if the result shows that it would benefit but it is always useful to have them.
I often work in the field using helicon remote running on an Android Tablet, in the studio often helicon remote with the camera on a rail.
Also when working in the field I will often add an image at the start and end of the stack at an aperture of f11 or f16 for a more natural transition to OOF, these are only added into the stack if the result shows that it would benefit but it is always useful to have them.
OP
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The only reason I asked if it was in the field was because it is more difficult in the field. I use it with macro in the field, and there are more constraints.
OP
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How many images would you generally take?
OP
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Do you have any problems with taking so many images in the field? I take fungi macros and I would get a high failure rate with that many images.
I don't have too many problems, if I do it is usually my own fault. Usually in the field I will be at the lower end of the number of images, all things being equal Helicon Remote is very good at controlling the stack which is later processed in Helicon Focus (Prior to retiring Close up/Macro to High Macro was my living and I was a beta tester for Helicon).
Higher stack numbers are normally reserved for the studio normally using an MP-E65 and a focus rail, again the control is with Helicon Remote, the MP-E needs to be used with a fairly wide aperture in order to avoid nasty diffraction.
At a push when in the field I have at times resorted to manually controlling the stack and the risk of problems seems to increase (for me) and I do find that stopping down to f8 and adding in more images than I need, and possibly culling when back at the computer works. I am often in awe of those who can handhold a stack whilst using an MP-E65, I guess I either drink too much coffee or am too unsteady in my old age
Interesting... Stacking in macro/low micro, for me, is about avoiding the ravishes of diffraction, so I will use a non-diffraction limited aperture for the camera/sensor in use, of course lower levels of diffraction can be negated in PP, but my work is/was highly detailed where even a modicum of a slightly misbehaving airy disc could obscure an important feature. If I am not stacking then assuming a larger sensor f11-16 would not be a problem, again this all depends on the magnification as the effective aperture reduces in size as we increase this. I used to routinely use magnification of between x20 < x30 and you need the aperture to be almost wide open and you have to strike a balance...
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I use f16 for my fungi macros (on a 42MP sensor), so very similar. Most of my work is in the rainforest, with dim light (always natural) and speed is critical as the light can vary and there is often a lot to photograph.
I don't have too many problems, if I do it is usually my own fault. Usually in the field I will be at the lower end of the number of images, all things being equal Helicon Remote is very good at controlling the stack which is later processed in Helicon Focus (Prior to retiring Close up/Macro to High Macro was my living and I was a beta tester for Helicon).
Higher stack numbers are normally reserved for the studio normally using an MP-E65 and a focus rail, again the control is with Helicon Remote, the MP-E needs to be used with a fairly wide aperture in order to avoid nasty diffraction.
At a push when in the field I have at times resorted to manually controlling the stack and the risk of problems seems to increase (for me) and I do find that stopping down to f8 and adding in more images than I need, and possibly culling when back at the computer works. I am often in awe of those who can handhold a stack whilst using an MP-E65, I guess I either drink too much coffee or am too unsteady in my old age
I occasionally use the MP-E65, where I have to use a focus rail, but I still use f16. I generally keep the magnification to little more than 2x. I can see that I may need to do some experimentation with this and maybe learn from you as to the best method to use. I think I would always use it near home so that I have available power supply and I do have a Stackshots unit (which I use for timelapse) and that is designed for focus stacking. I generally don't use the MP-E as it takes a lot of time and there is so much to photograph that is normal macro lens size, but it produces wonderful results if I do put in the effort.
Magnifications of x20 or x30 is a lot! I'm sure I would need to relearn things if I ventured into that space.
Important to remember that even only going to around x2 mag your f16 aperture is effectively f48. In fact the MP-E is effectively f5.6 when wide open at the lowest mag of 1:1 and not an f2.8, although it complicates things I do prefer to think around the effective aperture.
I very rarely use mine in the field, using it mostly in a controlled studio environment, I am looking at different ways of achieving increased magnification in the field, Helicon Remote works very well with my 100/2.8, not so well with my other 'macro' lenses, extension tubes provide one option to a degree, however last year I started experimenting with a Raynox Close-up lens in conjunction with the 100mm with some surprisingly good results and something that I must pursue again next year when hopefully time will permit me to.
Yes... Somewhere I don't venture into much these days, although I still have some specialised optics.
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I use F 5.6 to 6.3 or sometimes 7.1
I do close ups more than true macro a full frame shot of a butterfly or damselfly
I normally do just 3 or 4 frames just to get enough in focus behind and in front of the eyes for a portrait or just the wings and body in focus for a side on view
I'm always amazed by people that can get a lot of frames for a stack on the field hand held I can only manage up to about 4
I do close ups more than true macro a full frame shot of a butterfly or damselfly
I normally do just 3 or 4 frames just to get enough in focus behind and in front of the eyes for a portrait or just the wings and body in focus for a side on view
I'm always amazed by people that can get a lot of frames for a stack on the field hand held I can only manage up to about 4
Interesting, how did you connect your tablet to your PC? I could not find anything to connect my 7D MK II.
I think the same, particularly people like Iain Lawrie, who get loads of shots hand held.I use F 5.6 to 6.3 or sometimes 7.1
I do close ups more than true macro a full frame shot of a butterfly or damselfly
I normally do just 3 or 4 frames just to get enough in focus behind and in front of the eyes for a portrait or just the wings and body in focus for a side on view
I'm always amazed by people that can get a lot of frames for a stack on the field hand held I can only manage up to about 4
https://www.flickr.com/photos/daddysaurus
Hi,
The tablet is connected to the camera via USB using an OTG adapter from Am@zon, images are recorded to the card in the camera, then transferred to the computer to be stacked...
HTH
Thank you, I will have a look at this.