What's gone wrong

Silver Simon

Silver Simon

Messages
569
Name
Simon
Edit My Images
Yes
field pano resize.jpg
This is a stitched together panorama of four shots. I took it with a 5D3 and a Canon Tilt Shift 24mm.
I turned the camera 90 degrees and used the tilt function to get the four images for the panorama.
I also used a Lee Big Stopper and a Lee 6ND Half Grad (over the field), f13, ISO 100, 30 secs exposure.
There is a 'shadow' on both sides and a samller one running through the middle, can anybody say why please?
The good news is it's a 61MB pic. :)

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Scott Robertson said:
Not quite sure to be honest. Did you shoot in manual including WB? Was the eye piece on the viewfinder covered?
Not entirely sure what the point of the picture is or the choice of a 30 second shutter either.
Click to expand...
Manual.
It's the first time I'd tried a stitched panorama using the TS lens, it was purely for experimental purposes. I've watched vids on Youtube and wanted to try for myself and this seemed a nice wide spot to try.
30 sec exposure was because I was trying to get some motion blur in the sky
 
I must say that it seems a very difficult way to produce a simple picture. The sky in real life is not uniformly bright. The brightness of the sky varies from east to west and also varies from up to down. If you include a lot of sky - such as when stitching panoramas - the brightness of the sky will visibly vary.
 
john.margetts said:
I must say that it seems a very difficult way to produce a simple picture. The sky in real life is not uniformly bright. The brightness of the sky varies from east to west and also varies from up to down. If you include a lot of sky - such as when stitching panoramas - the brightness of the sky will visibly vary.
Click to expand...
That is what I am saying John, what has happened to put the shadows/dark spots in the sky? :)
This is the vid that gave me the idea, you might think it is barmy but I thought it was interesting and worth giving it a go :) ...... Tilt Shift Panorama
 
A lot may depend on the processing (or not) performed before merging. I'd guess that it's cause by vignetting correction, either in camera or automatically by the software on import. If the corners were slightly over-lightened that might create the lighter area at the top of the image where the merging software blended the lighter sections of the image - I can see darker areas smudging down from the top of the frame both left and right too, that might well be caused by that effect.

If you can, I'd go back to the original raw files & manually adjust any vignetting correction to make the base images absolutely balanced - unless you feel they already are.
 
Silver Simon said:
That is what I am saying John, what has happened to put the shadows/dark spots in the sky? :)
Click to expand...
I was suggesting that the sky is always like that but we do not notice the variations in brightness when we look with our eyes.
 
Not much in the sky for motion blur and it may not stitch well... however you should use the shift function, not the tilt function. first shifted right, second central and third shifted to the left. By using tilt you are getting closer to the lens coverage.
 
1.jpg2.jpg4.jpg
These are sooc from left to right, shots far left, centre left and far right, missing out centre right. As I can only post three you don't get the full flow but it shows the shadow. Maybe it was a combination of the tilt shift and the Lee Filter holder, just thought of that. :)

Oh and I cloned out my shadow. :)
 
Last edited:
How much overlap did you do for each shot? Try using say a 20% overlap on each shot not edge to edge from one frame to another. this was about 6 frames with that amount of overlap

Best seen enlarged

As3Kqhl.jpg

Nikon D800 and nikon 24-70mm lens on a tripod

Don't want to upset but you have asked questions

If I may I think you are going overboard with equipment That is not needed . Tilt shift lens - Lee Big Stopper and a Lee 6ND Half Grad , stop using them not necessary.

Ithink you may have been reading up too much about you must use this and that to balance light , forget it.

forget long exposures as well for this kind of picture, better for water movement smoothing.

ok try this instead

Just go out and stick a camera on a level tripod and and a lens of your choice. Frame up the subject which should be some distance away . Not too much sky and foreground, after all it is a pano shot your after taking up the centre third of the shot . I turn the camera first to check levels in the viewfinder. then ready to shoot the shots with a 20% overlap on each one with no delay between shots (clouds move and can ruin your effort)
Stitching together in an editing suit, I use adobe elements 14, that overlap removes any vignetting that might be in any frame ( your problem).

Anyway that is what i did with this picture of the trees

Again sorry if I am a bit abrupt in my reply it is not intentional
 
Last edited:
The dark areas in the sky look like the grad wasn't positioned properly... if I read correctly that you put the grad over the field rather than the sky (ie upside down) then it looks like it was pulled up too far

On another note, I'm not sure there was any need to use the big stopper?
 
realspeed said:
If I may I think you are going overboard with equipment That is not needed . Tilt shift lens - Lee Big Stopper and a Lee 6ND Half Grad , stop using them not necessary.

Ithink you may have been reading up too much about you must use this and that to balance light , forget it.

forget long exposures as well for this kind of picture, better for water movement smoothing.

ok try this instead

Just go out and stick a camera on a level tripod and and a lens of your choice. Frame up the subject which should be some distance away . Not too much sky and foreground, after all it is a pano shot your after taking up the centre third of the shot . I turn the camera first to check levels in the viewfinder. then ready to shoot the shots with a 20% overlap on each one with no delay between shots (clouds move and can ruin your effort)
Stitching together in an editing suit, I use adobe elements 14, that overlap removes any vignetting that might be in any frame ( your problem).

Anyway that is what i did with this picture of the trees

Again sorry if I am a bit abrupt in my reply it is not intentional
Click to expand...
My thoughts too but didn't want to say.....lol.
Pretty much my workflow for a pano too. Use no grads, filters or polarisers which can screw up your stitch. Only difference is I go for about a 30% overlap because I've been caught out in the past by cutting it too fine.
 
Really nice people here to give you so much on only a first effort. Everyone one knows a first attempt is almost inevitably a 'fail'. From which you learn and go on to other attempts each with varying degrees of 'failure' until finally success. So, I hope you return to display your further efforts and final success. Good shooting.
 
alfbranch said:
Here is a three shot vertical stitch taken from the window of a moving helicopter

The Rockies 1- by Alf Branch, on Flickr
Click to expand...

That is a fantastic picture BTW :D

To the OP - unless you want to print really very big - why not just take a single exposure and compose it that way. Modern bodies have a mental amount of resolution. A 5d3 isn't lacking and a 5dr (50mp) really is mint if high pixel count is your thing

A PCE is a great lens to have though - if you shoot commercial architecture it is brilliant and on a portrait orientation if you use the shift movements it means you aren't changing the angle of your lens in relation to the scene - others have mentioned the overlap you need and it is correct about 30%. On a totally level tripod in theory a grad in place would be ok - but I'd use a soft and certainly never a CPL for the uneven polarisation.
 
PhilH04 said:
Not much in the sky for motion blur and it may not stitch well... however you should use the shift function, not the tilt function. first shifted right, second central and third shifted to the left. By using tilt you are getting closer to the lens coverage.
Click to expand...
I assume he meant that he used the shift function. Tilt doesn't change the composition (much), it just tilts the plane of focus.
Shift actually takes you (closer) to the edge of the image circle, and that was my first thought... vignetting. But he was at f/13 and the issue isn't just along the edges/corners, so that's not the cause.
My only guess is some kind of interaction between the two filters...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top