Whats the best way to mount prints?

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Gordon
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I've mounted some prints mostly A4's and A3's but I've found that after a short while most of the A3 suffer from rippling, I have been tapping around the edges of the print to fit the mount aperture and gluing around the edges of the mount and fitting it to the card backing.

Is this the correct way to mount a print? or do I need to glue the whole print to the card backing as well?

Please advise.
 
I've mounted some prints mostly A4's and A3's but I've found that after a short while most of the A3 suffer from rippling, I have been tapping around the edges of the print to fit the mount aperture and gluing around the edges of the mount and fitting it to the card backing.

Is this the correct way to mount a print? or do I need to glue the whole print to the card backing as well?

Please advise.
the best why I found is to tape a T hinge at the top and let photo just hang, it the way artist does it.
The paper will expand and contract due to temperature and humidity.
If you ot know what I mean by a T you tape two strips each about 1/3 in from each side vertical then you put another strip across this one to make it more secure.
I hope you understand that. if need I will get a photo done
 
the best why I found is to tape a T hinge at the top and let photo just hang, it the way artist does it.
The paper will expand and contract due to temperature and humidity.
If you ot know what I mean by a T you tape two strips each about 1/3 in from each side vertical then you put another strip across this one to make it more secure.
I hope you understand that. if need I will get a photo done
This is how I do it too, works well.
 
I've just been looking on youtube and it seems common to use photo spray glue the backing before sticking them together, but I would worry it would damage the print?
 
Methods of mounting are IMO part personal choice and part the intended finish/intended usage part whether the print is a C-type or inkjet.

With different factors based on the above which one you want to use???
 
I use old-fashioned photo corners. I fix them each about 1 mm outside of where I want the picture to be on the backing board. When the print expands due to the display area having a higher humidity than my 'studio' there is room for movement rather than buckling.

I adopted this method after seeing a Lartigue exhibition in London where this was the technique used.
 
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another vote for the T mount - and I also use a backing board, so the print is sandwiched :)
 
Tape top and left side... Done exhibitions .. had pics professionally mounted.. always along top and down one side so the pic can breath...
 
the best why I found is to tape a T hinge at the top and let photo just hang, it the way artist does it.
The paper will expand and contract due to temperature and humidity.
If you ot know what I mean by a T you tape two strips each about 1/3 in from each side vertical then you put another strip across this one to make it more secure.
I hope you understand that. if need I will get a photo done

This is exactly what I do.

Simon.
 

Great illustrative pictures :)

FWIW I use pH neutral framers tape to make the T-hinges and the mount to backboard 'hinge' and an ATG (adhesive tape gun) to close the two together but the key for me is the pH Neutral tape to avoid staining and potential ageing damage to the print.
 
Great illustrative pictures :)

FWIW I use pH neutral framers tape to make the T-hinges and the mount to backboard 'hinge' and an ATG (adhesive tape gun) to close the two together but the key for me is the pH Neutral tape to avoid staining and potential ageing damage to the print.
However, the op was suffering from his pictures rippling which suggests the prints are expanding after mounting. Using two T-hinges will not allow the print to move in the mount (or at least not in all directions) and either rippling or buckling will still occur between the T-hinges.
 
However, the op was suffering from his pictures rippling which suggests the prints are expanding after mounting. Using two T-hinges will not allow the print to move in the mount (or at least not in all directions) and either rippling or buckling will still occur between the T-hinges.

He said he taped around all 4 edges and AFAIK (in the main) T-hinging will mitigate for almost all expanding & shrinking effects....................he (or did I miss it?) has not said whether he is talking about inkjet printed or C-type and if inkjet whether a heavyweight paper and if he allowed 48 hours for drying just to be as sure as possible that they were properly dry.

Also, espcially if inkjet whether dry or not what atmospheric conditions were they stored in and indeed displayed in ~ as moisture in the air can have an influence!

NB Just re-read his OP and he says the rippling was most in evidence on the A3 size ~ I think with that larger size it might need 3 off the T-hinges if mounting landscape orientation.

PS he also mentions gluing the mount and backing board ~ if using PVA or other acrylic based glues they will introduce moisture into the mounting................that is why I use the ATG material. ;)
 
However, the op was suffering from his pictures rippling which suggests the prints are expanding after mounting. Using two T-hinges will not allow the print to move in the mount (or at least not in all directions) and either rippling or buckling will still occur between the T-hinges.
Never had it happen also as said its Neutral PH as in acid-free. the plus side of hingeing the backing as well means you can change the image if need at any time with ease.
I do this with both inkjet and Photographic prints from the lab. and this is done on ALL size of prints
 
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