and please use their services
Which developer do you use?
- Thread starter Deano
- Start date
- Messages
- 1,253
- Name
- James Stockton
- Edit My Images
- Yes
I use ID-11 without any issues.
OP
- Messages
- 514
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Yeah i have just been to Nova darkroom supplies and i thought i would be getting ID-11 but was recommended LC29. But having just checked the developing times they seem very quick indeed. According to the Ilford processing chart i cant develop HP5 Plus at a 1 to 9 ratio it has to be 1 to 19 with the LC29. Although the times are quick, i take it that they will develop just as well quality wise?
- Messages
- 1,602
- Name
- Mark
- Edit My Images
- Yes
I noticed some crystallisation around my bottle of ID-11 made up stock solution. I thought it might make a nice frosting on some fairy cakes
The issue with very short (less than 5 mins) developing times is that the normal few seconds margin for error that we all work with become a far greater proportion of the overall time and thus lead to lack of consistency.
Over such short timings any inconsistency in your agitation technique and timings will also have a magnified effect.
As long as you can minimise these potential problems by being completely confident and accurate in your techniques then there is no reason why you shoudn't get good results.
One of the most important areas where things can go wrong is getting the developer out and the stop bath in and you need to carry out a lot of experimentation to get a really accurate knowledge of the emptying and filling times for your tank with the working volumes so that you can stop development consistently "on the button".
Having said all that, despite having mucked about with chemicals and film for the last 40 years I still avoid short developing times like the plague which is reflected in my choice of developers.
It is probably the case that by using ID-11 I am missing out on the finest possible grain and contrast range but it is what I am used to and I know exactly what to expect from it.
Over such short timings any inconsistency in your agitation technique and timings will also have a magnified effect.
As long as you can minimise these potential problems by being completely confident and accurate in your techniques then there is no reason why you shoudn't get good results.
One of the most important areas where things can go wrong is getting the developer out and the stop bath in and you need to carry out a lot of experimentation to get a really accurate knowledge of the emptying and filling times for your tank with the working volumes so that you can stop development consistently "on the button".
Having said all that, despite having mucked about with chemicals and film for the last 40 years I still avoid short developing times like the plague which is reflected in my choice of developers.
It is probably the case that by using ID-11 I am missing out on the finest possible grain and contrast range but it is what I am used to and I know exactly what to expect from it.
- Messages
- 8,757
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
LC 29 isn't that quick, 6.5 minutes @ 1+19 is my average, I usually use Ilfosol s, that and LC 29 are very similar.
Everybody has their own method, I find the 6-10 minute runners just about right, there's time to mix some fixer and get it to temperature, wash containers out/stuff in between agitations.
After using LC29 for a while I tried some HC110, now that was stoopid quick, totally buggered my methods up, didn't have time to scratch my arse..
Me and Kodak, don't get on..
- Messages
- 4,347
- Name
- You can call me Sir.
- Edit My Images
- Yes
So glad you pointed this out as I was about to use this combo this weekend. I've only seen FP4+ at ISO125 but page5 of this data sheet lists it at ISO100 and at the same time says you can't process 125 at 20 degrees. I'm confused.:shrug:
- Messages
- 8,757
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
Use the massive developement chart
select any film/developer combo from the 2 drop downs on the left.
it say's 125 is 5 mins @ 1+14 @ 24 degrees
I suppose you could do it at 20, it'd just take longer I guess
select any film/developer combo from the 2 drop downs on the left.
it say's 125 is 5 mins @ 1+14 @ 24 degrees
I suppose you could do it at 20, it'd just take longer I guess
- Messages
- 8,757
- Name
- John
- Edit My Images
- No
No your right, its absolutely the best thing ever.
Film boxes don't always give any development times or even what developer you can use besides what they suggest, Ilford like you to use Ilford developer but you can use HC110, Rodinal, Tmax, Xtol....allsorts.
Film boxes don't always give any development times or even what developer you can use besides what they suggest, Ilford like you to use Ilford developer but you can use HC110, Rodinal, Tmax, Xtol....allsorts.
- Messages
- 281
- Name
- Hannah
- Edit My Images
- Yes
I use Ilfosol 3
- Messages
- 1,602
- Name
- Mark
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Yes so was I at the time as I wanted to go down the Ilfosol route. If you want liquid I would say go for DD-X although I have no personal experience of using this, otherwise go for ID-11. It's no hassle to mix up. I was really against the idea but Nicos Rex talked me round and it's actually surprisingly easy to mix up the stock solution.
Gosh I sound like an expert. I've only done one roll so far but there is another waiting to be processed tomorrow
- Messages
- 328
- Name
- Mark
- Edit My Images
- No
I'm a fan of the following developers, depending on what I'm after:
Ilford Perceptol - reduces speed, but gives lovely easily printed negatives. I use it with HP5 plus, rating it at EI 200.
ID11 when I want some speed and a little grain - normally, I'll rate HP5 plus at 320 or 400 in ID11.
DDX - is good for keeping (or increasing) film speed.
Barry Thornton 2 bath developer. You make this up from the raw chemical ingredients. Rate HP5 plus at 200 and it gives beautiful negs. Being a 2 bath, the highlights are naturally prevented from burning out. I can provide the recipe if anyone wants.
I have my own personal development times on my website. http://www.monomagic.co.uk/technique.php which you may find helpful. Just click on the link on the left that says 'Mark's development table'
One last thing - film speeds and development times are personal - they depend on your exposure technique as well as development technique. Generally, it's best to reduce the film speed and reduce development time. That way you get good shadow detail as well as highlight detail that sin't blown. The maxim that was drummed into me when I went on courses was 'expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights'
Ilford Perceptol - reduces speed, but gives lovely easily printed negatives. I use it with HP5 plus, rating it at EI 200.
ID11 when I want some speed and a little grain - normally, I'll rate HP5 plus at 320 or 400 in ID11.
DDX - is good for keeping (or increasing) film speed.
Barry Thornton 2 bath developer. You make this up from the raw chemical ingredients. Rate HP5 plus at 200 and it gives beautiful negs. Being a 2 bath, the highlights are naturally prevented from burning out. I can provide the recipe if anyone wants.
I have my own personal development times on my website. http://www.monomagic.co.uk/technique.php which you may find helpful. Just click on the link on the left that says 'Mark's development table'
One last thing - film speeds and development times are personal - they depend on your exposure technique as well as development technique. Generally, it's best to reduce the film speed and reduce development time. That way you get good shadow detail as well as highlight detail that sin't blown. The maxim that was drummed into me when I went on courses was 'expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights'
- Messages
- 5
- Edit My Images
- No
With b&w, I use Rodinal, along with the Massive Dev Chart. Always works for me, even though I don't do all that much processing.
