Who knows about bikes?

If your after a road bike best one to get is the one that is fitted to you. Go to a good bike shop let them fit you to a bike. You will be surprised at the difference in your comfort and riding when the bike fits you rather than you fitting the bike. £ 500 is a good starting point.
 
neil_g said:
have a browse of the pedal power thread, some previous suggestions in there
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Agreed. Lots of posts to look through. Lots of info too (y)
 
I would suggest visiting your local bike shop (LBS) and seeing what they have pre owned.

You will be surprised what you can pick up for £500. I would try and stay away from Sora shifters, they have an annoying thumb button changer that is difficult to use at times. Try and get the best frame and group set (gears/shifters/brakes) as you can, these are the expensive things to change later.

I'm not sure if you already have a helmet, puncture repair kit etc so don't forget these if you need them. Also, it is worth getting a cheap pair of cycling shoes or something with a solid sole. Cycling any distance with trainers on is not good for you feet. Oh and don't forget a pair of padded shorts if you not already got a pair.

Any reason for the sudden desire to try road cycling?
 
MG TF 135 said:
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You will be surprised what you can pick up for £500. I would try and stay away from Sora shifters, they have an annoying thumb button changer that is difficult to use at times.
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Click to expand...

The 2013 Sora shifters have got the paddle shift like Tiagra, the Shimano 2300 shifters are now the bottom of the range ones with the thumb button.
 
theurbanclown said:
Looking to get into a bit of cycling, so am on the hunt for a road bike.

Have a budget of around £550.

This will be my first proper bike and really don't know what I'm looking for. Is this one any good (apart from the fact it's ugly)? Or can I get better for my budget?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/moser-bikes...um=affiliates&utm_campaign=www.hotukdeals.com
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A lot of people rate the Decathlon Triban3 as being good for the money. Or try buying 2nd hand from somewhere like bikeradar.com

The 2014 bikes are starting to come out now, so if buying new you might want to wait a bit for any deals on 2013 gear.
 
This is what I posted on Pedal Power a while back - (I bought locally from my bike shop and that was the best and deciding decision for me):

I was in a similar position to you, and couldn't decide what to get. I think a Hybrid or Cross would have been more sensible, but I wanted a road bike and ultimately was happy to live with the compromises.

On that basis I only really looked at road bikes, from around £300 up to a grand.

The most frequent advice, much as you see on this forum re cameras, was to get a bike that was a good fit for your body. Secondly (though this was more in debate) if you are new to this, buying from a good local bike shop can be invaluable in terms of the advice you might get.

As for bikes, lots of people, again as on here, tend to recommend the bikes they have (nothing wrong with that per se, but often done with little experience of other bikes).

Of the reviews I read earlier in the year, if you have Decathlon near you for £300 the Triban 3s seemed to get universally good reviews and seemed the best bang for your buck at that price new.

After that a lot of the big brands (Giant, Trek, Cannondale etc) seemed much of a muchness from £500 up. I see you slightly slate Halfords, who do have a mixed reputation it would appear for bike assembly, but their Boardman range is meant to be good.

I ended up going to my local shop and asking what they had in store from last year's range and ended up buying that.

The one thing most people mentioned was to try and aim for a carbon fork (I think most bikes for £450 will have one but to check, and then differences seem to be groupsets and or wheels that come with the bike.

There do seem to be pretty puncture resistant tyres now days so I'm less concerned than I was previously about punctures (I know I'm going to regret writing this).

Road bikes also have different geometries, making them more or less sporty (so some better suited for racing, some with more relaxed position etc). That is why it is important to try the bikes out if you can. I really don't know what I'm talking about here but you should ask someone who does.

Things to consider:

Do you want to be able to attach mudguards
Do you want to be able to attach panniers
Do you want to be able to swap to large tyres \ wheels in winter?

I ended up with a road bike but I never use the drops, maybe one day I will, but I doubt it.

Good luck.
 
This is all great info, and has saved me a fair bit of time looking through pages and pages of info just to find what I'm looking for.

Thanks.

MG TF 135 said:
I would suggest visiting your local bike shop (LBS) and seeing what they have pre owned.

You will be surprised what you can pick up for £500. I would try and stay away from Sora shifters, they have an annoying thumb button changer that is difficult to use at times. Try and get the best frame and group set (gears/shifters/brakes) as you can, these are the expensive things to change later.

I'm not sure if you already have a helmet, puncture repair kit etc so don't forget these if you need them. Also, it is worth getting a cheap pair of cycling shoes or something with a solid sole. Cycling any distance with trainers on is not good for you feet. Oh and don't forget a pair of padded shorts if you not already got a pair.

Any reason for the sudden desire to try road cycling?
Click to expand...

A few reasons as to why I want to start really;

1. I live in Bristol. It's well known for being pretty traffic heavy so getting around on bike would not only be cheaper, but most likely quicker. I don't necessarily need a road bike for this, but for reasons further down that's the route I want to go down.

2. I sold my car to buy new camera equipment. I now share a car with my girlfriend and she travels a lot with work so a bike would be ideal for small/medium journeys for me. Again, don't necessarily need a road bike for this.

3. My parents live on the Somerset levels, it's absolutely perfect for cycling and this is where I really think I'd see the advantages of a road bike. This is also where I'd be using the bike most.

4. I like to keep fit and currently play football on a Saturday at a fairly decent level. I'm photographing more and more weddings now so I can soon see that coming to a halt. I need something that will make me get fit and something I enjoy - I think cycling is the answer.

5. Bikes are cool.

TopBanana said:
A lot of people rate the Decathlon Triban3 as being good for the money. Or try buying 2nd hand from somewhere like bikeradar.com

The 2014 bikes are starting to come out now, so if buying new you might want to wait a bit for any deals on 2013 gear.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I may well hold out for a little while.

akr said:
This is what I posted on Pedal Power a while back - (I bought locally from my bike shop and that was the best and deciding decision for me):

I was in a similar position to you, and couldn't decide what to get. I think a Hybrid or Cross would have been more sensible, but I wanted a road bike and ultimately was happy to live with the compromises.

On that basis I only really looked at road bikes, from around £300 up to a grand.

The most frequent advice, much as you see on this forum re cameras, was to get a bike that was a good fit for your body. Secondly (though this was more in debate) if you are new to this, buying from a good local bike shop can be invaluable in terms of the advice you might get.

As for bikes, lots of people, again as on here, tend to recommend the bikes they have (nothing wrong with that per se, but often done with little experience of other bikes).

Of the reviews I read earlier in the year, if you have Decathlon near you for £300 the Triban 3s seemed to get universally good reviews and seemed the best bang for your buck at that price new.

After that a lot of the big brands (Giant, Trek, Cannondale etc) seemed much of a muchness from £500 up. I see you slightly slate Halfords, who do have a mixed reputation it would appear for bike assembly, but their Boardman range is meant to be good.

I ended up going to my local shop and asking what they had in store from last year's range and ended up buying that.

The one thing most people mentioned was to try and aim for a carbon fork (I think most bikes for £450 will have one but to check, and then differences seem to be groupsets and or wheels that come with the bike.

There do seem to be pretty puncture resistant tyres now days so I'm less concerned than I was previously about punctures (I know I'm going to regret writing this).

Road bikes also have different geometries, making them more or less sporty (so some better suited for racing, some with more relaxed position etc). That is why it is important to try the bikes out if you can. I really don't know what I'm talking about here but you should ask someone who does.

Things to consider:

Do you want to be able to attach mudguards
Do you want to be able to attach panniers
Do you want to be able to swap to large tyres \ wheels in winter?

I ended up with a road bike but I never use the drops, maybe one day I will, but I doubt it.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Perfect,thanks for such a detailed response. If I'm honest, I'm yet to consider the things you mention.

Let you know how I get on.
 
If you have a big bike shop go there to see how they feel.

Buying on line will most probably be cheaper, however if you buy from your local bike shop, you will normally get it serviced free after about 6 weeks, once it has had time to bed in. You also have the advantage of being able to pop in there if anything goes wrong, my local one is great if I have any issues.
 
Again my vote is for Decathlon Triban3 for £300 which are rumored to be manufactured by giant, then spend the extra on some extra's like a decent pair of bib shorts helmet etc..
 
I live in Bristol too so hopefully I can help.

General advice first is as others have said really:

1) Bike fit is most important. If it's not comfortable you won't ride it.

2) Buy a bike with a good quality frame, fork and groupset (gears). These are the most expensive and difficult parts to upgrade later. If you buy a decent frame to start with you can add better components as and when the desire arrives.

3) The previous years bikes are always cheaper. For some reason manufacturers insist on releasing a new range of bikes every year. Often the only change is a new paint job. In recent years, with prices going up, the replacement model has sometimes even been lower spec'd than the previous years but at a higher price.

4) Try before you buy if possible. As well as testing out the bike fit you'll want to see which manufacturers shifters you like most. Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM are the big three. I like Campagnolo, but it's literally a Canon/Nikon/Pentax type debate.

5) Factor in extras. With a road bike you'll need a track pump to get the pressure in the tyres. You'll want a helmet. You might want to go the whole hog and get Lycra shorts and a jersey but at the least I'd recommend some padded undershorts for any distance on the bike. You might want to change the saddle. Often bikes are sold without peddles. If you want traditional flat pedals they're cheap as chips, if you'd rather go the clipless route (which i'd recommend) then you're looking at more expensive pedals and some proper cycling shoes to mount the cleats on.

More specific to Bristol:

As you well know the traffic can get heavy, particularly at rush hour. Fortunately a lot of development has gone into the cycle lanes and they're improving year on year. The major danger zones such as the large roundabouts have underpasses for cyclists and you'd be silly not to take advantage of them. If I have to travel at busy times I favour taking slightly longer routes on quiet roads to minimise the risk. In a fight of car v bike there's only ever going to be one winner. Often taking the quieter route works out faster because it negates the stop start anyway.

Away from commuting cycling, there's a few very nice cycle routes completely away from busy roads. I'm fortunate to live with a few hundred meters of the Bristol to Bath railway path, which gives me a 50km route there and back with absolutely no traffic, just dogs off their leads, children running erratically and prams two-abreast across the road :LOL:

There's another nice route along the Avon out to Portishead. A big part of it is a hard gravel path which is on the limits of what a road bike can handle but in the dry it's no problem at all.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head but I'll happily answer more questions if you have them!
 
image_zps57fd469d.jpg
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My son in law bought this from sports direct for £130 loves it to death it's very light too.
 
Viking don't have the best reputation.

I did my homework and found the decathlon Triban3 is the best spec'ed bike in the uk for the money. Its a proper bike, i wouldn't buy anything lower priced than the triban. It's the same spec as a £500-£600 bike like the best selling Allez which i ended up buying out of snobbery. My less snobby friend went for the triban and riding the 2 i prefer the triban at half the price.
 
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rjbell said:
Viking don't have the best reputation.

I did my homework and found the decathlon Triban3 is the best spec'ed bike in the uk for the money. Its a proper bike, i wouldn't buy anything lower priced than the triban. It's the same spec as a £500-£600 bike like the best selling Allez which i ended up buying out of snobbery. My less snobby friend went for the triban and riding the 2 i prefer the triban at half the price.
Click to expand...

I haven't rode the Viking or had a close up look so I can't comment on it tbh but I test rode a triban3 and wasn't impressed at all. Would rather spend a little more and get a trek. Maybe the 1.1 c h2 2013 model.
 
There are loads of bike clubs around Bristol, both social and competitive, do an internet search. Look out in bike shops, libraries, the tourist board down at the docks etc for the excellent pocket sized maps of Bristol, Bath, Somerset and South Glos routes just for cyclists - they are very well done.

This web site is road based www.road.cc and I think the creators live in Bath, but its a national forum.

Also check out
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/

Whick looks like a mountain bike forum but in fact masses of them have road bikes as well (its not uncommon for the people there to have at least 2 or 3 different sorts of bike), so you will find lots of road chatter and they will help you out with questions. They are hugely friendly and supportive. One of the nicest forums I have ever used. Check out the 'chat' section as well - you will be staggered and amused by some of the subjects covered and the amusing/helpful conversations.

You might want to be clear if you want a hybrid, a proper racing/road bike or a lightweight touring bike - they are all different things. Ride position, angles of frames, gearing will all vary between these.

Insist on finding out the weight of any bike you buy - they will vary a huge amount and it makes a huge difference/improvement if they are lighter.

You may want to check into steel v aluminium frames - lots of steels about these days as the tubing has improved loads and there are differences in ride quality/lifespan. Proper racing bikes will mostly be aluminium alloy and even these come in different grades of alloy. Hope you like looking up info!
If you might want to carry a rack, check for rack mounts on the frame as it makes it neater than using p-clips.
Bike,
http://www.bike-uk.co.uk/bikebristol.php
up by the Triangle, opposite the empty building that used to house Habitat has always been a good company, nice helpful staff. The Mud Dock bike shop I and others have found to be snobby and rude.
I have also heard good things about
http://www.psyclewerx.co.uk/
off Whiteladies Road.
Hope this helps.
 
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Look out for lock reviews as well - lots of locks that look secure are actually rubbish.
Abus brand usually win reviews.
Allow £40 - £60 to get a U lock thats effective in Bristol (tons of organised bike thefts). Always lock through the frame and both wheels, use a cable extension if necessary. People will just steal wheels and leave the frame or leave a wheel thats secured and nick the rest of the bike!
 
What is a good weight for a bike?

I am looking at a road/race bike to replace my mtb (with road tyres). Mine is heavy and hard work, so want a road/race bike. What is considered light, average and heavy?
 
cambsno said:
What is a good weight for a bike?

I am looking at a road/race bike to replace my mtb (with road tyres). Mine is heavy and hard work, so want a road/race bike. What is considered light, average and heavy?
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I'd say:
Heavy - 10+kg
Average - 8.5-9.5kg
Light - under 8.5kg

In professional races their road bikes have to weigh over 7.3kg, which often requires additional weight to be added to the bike now that components and manufacturing techniques have developed so much.

The weight of a bike - even a couple of kilos either way - will only really be felt uphill. 500ml of water is 0.5kg. Most of us carry more than a few kilos we wouldn't miss. A lighter bike will feel nicer to handle and may make you a little faster on a climb, but the real weight saving benefits come from trimming the fat elsewhere!
 
doesn't really matter how light the bike is, it how good the engine is that really matters :)
 
Paul_W said:
doesn't really matter how light the bike is, it how good the engine is that really matters :)
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Totally agree with this! (y)

There is an obsession with weight when it comes to bikes (especially road bikes). In reality the heaviest part is the rider. So makes little difference unless you are a pro-cyclist.
 
I'm no light weight, so same here, it wouldn't matter much how light the bike was :D

Lighter = more expensive usually.

I have this bike here: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...uctId_810721_langId_-1_categoryId_165499#tab2

I have it a year now, and it's not needed one service, apart from the odd tightening up I done myself. I used to work for Trek, mostly on the gears and brakes, so |I know how to adjust them. Outside of that I know little about bikes, only that I have had dozens.

This one has been down rocky pathways, along the river, up and down paths, I've fallen off it a couple of times, it's been treated like a proper mountain bike. And STILL looks good as new when cleaned.

It's sufficient for my needs.
 
Bought my first road bike earlier this week..


A Specialized Sectuer Elite.

Weighs in around 8-9kg, feels a damn sight lighter than my mtb that's for sure!!

Did my first ride on it yesterday, only 6 miles, which took about 25 minutes around town as I had to get back home to go shopping. Took a while to get used to the brakes being in the wrong place and the twitchyness of the steering, but I enjoyed the extra speed!

Hopefully try get about 20 miles in this afternoon, maybe more if the rain holds off.


Specialized Secteur elite. by TCR4x4, on Flickr
 
Bike weight does make a difference - I have a cheap mountain bike from Halfords which when weighed was 38 pounds - the one I built is 26 pounds and I was not all that weight aware when building it. Riding it makes a difference, much easier moving off junctions etc (I use it as a general purpose bike so it does lots of roads too). Also so much easier for lifting for storage, travelling, over gates or whatever.

I cant really comment on current bike models as I have not shopped for bikes for 2 or 3 years now.
 
cambsno said:
Is this any good? http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_888017_langId_-1_categoryId_165710

Looked in my local bike shop but everything there is £600+ road wise.

Had my MTB about 7 years, just find it hard & slow! Most biking is on road to the next village or into town, may do a bit more if I find the bike nice to ride but only looking at spending £300 as the absolute max, would prefer sub £200.
Click to expand...

If you look around, lots of places will be getting rid of the stock with 2012 colour scheme. You will get some bargains. If you go sub £200 you will get components that aren't as smooth/robust. If you can get to ride the bike first that is the best option to make sure you feel ok on it.
 
At the risk of adding futher to a 7 year old post, slicks work ok but MTB's are heavy compared to a road bike. they accelerate slowly and uphill are much slower.
 
I used to be heavily involved in Harmony Central, but it's a ghost town now. The would-be spammers are hilarious, commenting in threads 10, 15, even 20 years old. Since the date of creation is always displayed under the thread title it's easy to tell which to ignore. The one downside is that it's impossible to tell without exploration whether the thread was re-opened by a legitimate enquirer.
 
ancient_mariner said:
The one downside is that it's impossible to tell without exploration whether the thread was re-opened by a legitimate enquirer.
Click to expand...
Spammers tend to post 3 ( needed to post a link) random posts on the "old" threads, in very quick succession.
Usually about a minute apart, and the 4th post on is the link(s)
 
This one actually edited the post on this thread to add the link later on. I could tell it was spammer straight away, but it hadn’t posted a link yet so couldn’t report it, as soon as I saw they edited this post with a link, I reported.
 
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