I don't use many online resources for workflow - I guess I have just fallen into my own way of doing things. I do use online resources for learning new techniques though.
I think phlearn may have some vids on youtube that deal with workflow as may piximperfect, and I know you said not youtube, but maybe you can note the steps as such ...
Not sure what level of step by step or experience you require. If it helps my workflow follows these basic steps ...
1) Ingest into LR - I shoot raw usually (?90% of the time) - I'll rename on import and add keywords. I let LR deal with where the files go (uses a year / date hierarchy) as the naming and keywords will find any image for me
1a - I may apply a preset on import, if I do it will be a camera profile (e.g. I like the camera portrait profile as a starting point for portraits, rarely use one for landscapes).
1b - If I intend to crop the image then I'll crop it now.
1c - If I wish to use lens correction, this is when I do it (immediately after ingest), i.e. before any other edit. I don't always use lens profiles so worth trying them and if you like the corrected image leave it, if not reverse it or use it manually.
2) Make any exposure adjustments - I do this now as it can affect the way I see colours so before adjusting wb I adjust exposure if required. It may work better for others to adjust wb first (if required)
2a - if noise reduction is needed I sometimes do so here, otherwise it waits until usage stage (export/print) tbh I rarely use NR these days
3) Make any wb adjustments needed.
3a - If I'm going to use the Tone Curves in LR I do so here - it may seem odd to some but once I have the exposure and colour where I want it, then I can adjust the contrast.
4) Apply any grads - usually only for landscapes (I used one once on a portrait) - on landscapes I will sometimes use the brush tool to "undo" the grad where it covers trees or a peak if needed - I find using a tablet perfect for this type of work.
5) If needed I'll use the various other local adjustment tools (the radial filter can be very powerful) to get the "light" right - again usually on landscapes.
6) Take the image into PS, using edit in ...
7) Gets tricky now as depends on the image, for landscapes I only tend to use PS for blending/stitching and for the odd effect (like orton) - for portraits this is where I do all the fine editing, e.g. blemish removal, eye work, teeth, skin work etc ... one rule, is to do all the blemish removal before any other type of work in PS on a portrait, looks weird if you remove a blemish after smoothing and toning skin for example! This step is too detailed to detail so hopefully it gives a good general idea.
8) Take the image back into LR - I prefer to use LR for exporting and printing. I will use the bare minimum of output sharpening.
8a) if I'm going to use a vignette this is when I apply it, but before usage otherwise whats the point
I use non destructive techniques in PS wherever possible and usually it is possible for everything! The good thing with LR is that all edits are non destructive and you can work on virtual copies without using masses of disk space. I also make a lot of use of collections as images can be in multiple collections. I don't use any third party plugins anymore, I find for what I want I can either make a preset or just a few clicks of a mouse achieves the result I want. I rarely split tone work, if I do, I do it in PS as it is far more flexible.
I'm far from being an expert at pp - perhaps only competent - but I hope the above helps.
