exposure bracketing for airshows ?

paulyoung666

paulyoung666

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Paul
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as per the title , i was thinking about going + & - 1/3 of a stop , good idea or not , also , i normally shoot raw & jpeg , if i bracket then i am going to end up with a serious amount of shots to wade through :eek: , so maybe raw only so i can play in DPP a bit more , focus mode , AI servo or one shot ?? , first airshow with a dlsr and i really really want to get it right , at least its a freebie at sunderland so all it is going to cost me is some diesel :LOL: , all advice gratefully received :)
 
I'm just gonna go AI Servo and RAW for Sunderland Paul, and this is my first too. I did go last year with a dslr, but the less said about that the better. I can't see the focus having to work too hard, and DoF is going to be pretty huge at those sort of distances even with the lens wide open. My problem will be lack of reach at 200mm on full frame. :(
 
Depends on the conditions and camera. Some of canon's camera's prefer the +1/3 or +2/3 exposure compensation, but it really is down to the conditions and what your histogram is telling you.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms1.htm

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms2.htm

The best thing you can do while shooting is to lower the camera during a demonstration and check your histogram on the rear LCD. If the 'graph' has data anywhere between the middle (the midtones) and the right hand side (the highlights) you are doing fine. If the data falls more between the middle (midtones) and the left side (lowtones) then you are underexposing and need to add positive EC. Your histogram is the simply best invention on a DSLR, use it, learn it.

Peter
 
pete.rush said:
Depends on the conditions and camera. Some of canon's camera's prefer the +1/3 or +2/3 exposure compensation, but it really is down to the conditions and what your histogram is telling you.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms1.htm

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms2.htm

The best thing you can do while shooting is to lower the camera during a demonstration and check your histogram on the rear LCD. If the 'graph' has data anywhere between the middle (the midtones) and the right hand side (the highlights) you are doing fine. If the data falls more between the middle (midtones) and the left side (lowtones) then you are underexposing and need to add positive EC. Your histogram is the simply best invention on a DSLR, use it, learn it.

Peter
Click to expand...


thanks for that Peter :)
 
I'd shoot raw, using manual exposure and setting my exposure to put the brightest thing in the scene at +3 on the meter. That might be a white cloud, or a white plane, but once I'd established that exposure as correct I'd leave it there until or unless the lighting for the scene before me changed. In conditions of clear blue skies I'd simply set a "Sunny 16" exposure manually, as a starting point, and then adjust a little if necessary. Another option, equally good, would be to meter off my palm and set a manual exposure with the meter at +1 1/3, so long as my hand was in the same lighting as the planes.

I don't really shoot planes, but these are approaches I take when shooting birds in flight and they serve me pretty well. They work best with the main light (the sun) behind you, even if obscured by clouds. Shooting into backlighting is a bit hopeless unless you like silhouettes. Fill flash does not work too well at 400m.

You can see more of my rambling thoughts on the matter in this thread - http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=115623
 
I took my new Sony A300 with kit lens (18-70mm) to an airshow a couple of months ago.

Used bracketing.

Ended up with 1450 pictures to sort through :LOL:.

I've learned to set exposure better, and that is far far more useful than the "brute force" method of taking more pictures than you know what to do with.

Saying that, I did get some reasonable pictures considering the lens!

as5.jpg


as14.jpg


as19.jpg
 
bobiscuit said:
I took my new Sony A300 with kit lens (18-70mm) to an airshow a couple of months ago.

Used bracketing.

Ended up with 1450 pictures to sort through :LOL:.

I've learned to set exposure better, and that is far far more useful than the "brute force" method of taking more pictures than you know what to do with.

Saying that, I did get some reasonable pictures considering the lens!

as5.jpg


as14.jpg


as19.jpg
Click to expand...
And I bet the best ones were the over exposed ones.
 
i'm going down to the windermere airshow later this morning.
is it worth using the 1.4 kenko tc or should i just use the the sigma 100-300 f/4 on its own.
 
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