best aperture for general shooting?

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Ian
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Hoping someone can give me an idea of a good aperture to start with for general shooting on a holiday? I'll be using a Nikon D7000 with 16-85mm f3.5-5.6 dx and 35mm f1.8 dx lenses. Most of my shots will be general shots of the area. I am ok if I take a few portraits, I'll use the long end of the zoom with smallest f stop or the prime.

But where to start with general shots around f8? I don't mind winding up the iso if the light is poor to maintain a reasonable shutter speed.
 
sharpest is usually 1 or two stops up from the widest f-stop …….. but I did say usually

but it all depends on this and that and there will be various tests on the net to say which is the "sharpest" f-stop for that lens

depends of movement, light, the DOF you want, ISO, etc., etc.

If I am walking around with a "manual" camera, i.e. my M8 with a 28mm or 35mm lens, I always return it to my (default) at f8 and infinity, just in case i have no time

an impossible question to really answer
 
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There was once a phrase that became 'the rule' amongst a group of Press photographers... a wise maxim of two points for always getting the shot

.... "f8 and be there"

Don't think that much has changed ;)
 
You can should whatever f-stop you like it depends on the look you are after. F8 has a wide dof so you do not have to worry so much about getting a object bang on focus. This was especially important in manual focus days although lots of street photographers still use this principle. You manual focus to a specific distance then shoot objects with this distance in mind. Its called zone focusing.
 
There was once a phrase that became 'the rule' amongst a group of Press photographers... a wise maxim of two points for always getting the shot

.... "f8 and be there"

Don't think that much has changed ;)

I do.

Back then people probably used 35mm cameras but today perhaps most people use cameras with sensors smaller than 35mm and with those formats why not at least think about the possibility and implications of using different settings? For example with MFT why not say "f4 and be there" and with APS-C "f5.6 and be there."

But, as has been said, there is no real one aperture fits all and it's much better to try and understand the effect of different camera settings and try and make informed decisions and judgements.
 
Shoot in auto and see what the settings are for the photos youre happy with. Use this as a starting point.
 
When on holiday my camera is generally slung over my shoulder in aperture priority mode set at f8 as if you see a scene you like you can quickly grab a shot knowing that most things in frame will be sharp. If I want something a little more creative then I adjust the settings as appropriate before slapping it back on Av setting f8 and moving on.

Before the pedants strike obviously this advice doesn't hold true in the evening, or a dark market etc etc some common sense is required!
 
Shoot in auto and see what the settings are for the photos youre happy with. Use this as a starting point.

In my experience green square mode is likely to select settings that I'm very unlikely to select myself. It's worth shooting in Auto to see what the camera does and if you're happy with the results then all well and good but IMVHO it's also worth understand the settings and their effect and making an informed choice.
 
Surely that should be one or two stops down from wide open? :confused:

what I mean't Ed, is if it is a f2.8 lens, f5.6 or maybe f8 would be the sharpest ……. I tried to word it to imply this ………. i.e. wide open plus

There is only one way you can go from the widest aperture
 
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In my experience green square mode is likely to select settings that I'm very unlikely to select myself. It's worth shooting in Auto to see what the camera does and if you're happy with the results then all well and good but IMVHO it's also worth understand the settings and their effect and making an informed choice.

Thats what I was getting at when I wrote "Use these as a starting point" thats all it is, a starting point and you make adjustments from there that your happy with.

Also, he doesnt say where he's going to and when. You would use different settings if going to Mexico, say Cancun where it's 40c and bright sunshine or going to Northen Europe at this time of year, 8c and wet and grey. It has been the case when I have gone to these places.
 
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Thats what I was getting at when I wrote "Use these as a starting point" thats all it is, a starting point and you make adjustments from there that your happy with.

To me green square mode could be a very poor starting point. It depends what you're camera does. My Canon DSLR's used to select green square settings that I was highly unlikely to agree with.

More on that... as I said, it's worth trying and if you're happy with green square mode then you're happy... but... IMVHO there a distinct advantage to understanding the basics of what some would call the exposure triangle and also of understanding the implications of choosing the various settings for the kit you're using and the resultant images. If you do understand what's going on you'd be in a better position to decide if green square mode was worth using.

Green square mode may be a good choice or it may not but I assume that anyone selecting anything as complex and customisable as a DSLR will have at least a passing interest in getting better results than green square mode may provide and for that reason I it seems like a good approach to me to become familiar with the various aperture, ISO, shutter speed and file settings and when selecting them would be most appropriate for you.
 
'f8 and be there' - can't stand that one - You should be able to adjust to whatever lighting is in front of you within seconds of being there really.
 
'f8 and be there' - can't stand that one - You should be able to adjust to whatever lighting is in front of you within seconds of being there really.
That was originally a maxim intended for photojournalists. The idea being that at f/8 a reasonable balance was struck between focus (dof) and exposure so fleeting moments could be captured on the hoof with somewhat reliable results.
It's pretty good advice in that respect.
 
To me green square mode could be a very poor starting point. It depends what you're camera does. My Canon DSLR's used to select green square settings that I was highly unlikely to agree with.

More on that... as I said, it's worth trying and if you're happy with green square mode then you're happy... but... IMVHO there a distinct advantage to understanding the basics of what some would call the exposure triangle and also of understanding the implications of choosing the various settings for the kit you're using and the resultant images. If you do understand what's going on you'd be in a better position to decide if green square mode was worth using.

Green square mode may be a good choice or it may not but I assume that anyone selecting anything as complex and customisable as a DSLR will have at least a passing interest in getting better results than green square mode may provide and for that reason I it seems like a good approach to me to become familiar with the various aperture, ISO, shutter speed and file settings and when selecting them would be most appropriate for you.

"To me green square mode could be a very poor starting point" You have to start somwhere and I think auto is the place IMO. And you do need to learn the exposure triangle. I think Pookeyhead has written on it, but I cant seem to find it as I would have linked for the OP.

Alan, we seem to starting to go round in circles here? I'm not sure I am explaining myself correctly. I use manual mode on my Fuji's and I have previously owned two Nikon D7000. It was a good camera to use in auto, it's what I learned on. This is more modern than the Canon DSLR you used to use? I believe the D7000 to be 5 or 6 years newer technology than your Canon 5D???? and could be used in auto to start learning the camera. It worked for me.

The OP has asked for "best aperture for general shooting". What I originally posted was > "Shoot in auto and see what the settings are for the photos youre happy with. Use this as a starting point". So I said try auto and if your happy with the photos use these settings as a starting point. If your not happy with the photos still use this as your starting point. To me this means adjust accordingly.

So in auto mode the results are:

ISO 400
SS 1/125
Aperture f5.6

This is your starting point.

Then adjust from there, keeping an eye on what each change does.

ISO 800
SS 1/125
Aperture f5.6

Then you could try

ISO 800
SS 1/160
Aperture f5.6

etc........................................

See where I'm going with this, from the starting point in Auto.

This is how you learn what each adjustment does. I used to start like this, take 5 photos, write down each setting, then adjust and take another 5 photos etc............... keep going until you understand what your adjusting actually changes and your happy with the end result, the photo. If your eyes are good you can see on the camera screen what effect the adjustments make, I usually used to load pictures on computer as I found it easier for me comparing the changes.

I hope that makes sense, we are singing from the same hymn sheet, Im just saying start in auto and take it from there.
 
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There is only one way you can go from the widest aperture.

Indeed there is. Down.:D

As long as I've taken an interest in these things people have always spoken of 'stopping down the aperture' to make it smaller. Which is what you are on about.
 
I don't understand why you would want to stick to one aperture all holiday?

For holiday snaps, my camera is in program mode 90% of the time unless I want to do something specific that requires adjusting either the shutter, aperture or on the rare occasion, both, so I adjust the camera modes accordingly.
 
My best lenses (on an APS-C camera) are sharpest in the centre around f5.6 (one at f4), sharpest edge to edge between f8 and f11 depending on lens. My worst lenses are sharpest in the centre at f8, and sharpest edge to edge at f11.

So when walking around in good light snapping opportunistically I usually just leave it at f8.
 
I can't believe this thread has generated such a discussion.

Use what's appropriate for each shot. There's literally no such thing as a "best" aperture. If the shot needs a shallow depth of field, open up.. if it needs maximum, close down. Simple as that.
 
I usually go along with whatever it says under the little picture on the packet/box.... Oh hang on a minute.. :)
 
I can't believe this thread has generated such a discussion.

Use what's appropriate for each shot. There's literally no such thing as a "best" aperture. If the shot needs a shallow depth of field, open up.. if it needs maximum, close down. Simple as that.


^^^This.

If you want to be prepared for anything on general walkabout - like sun, shade, interiors etc - then P is a very underrated mode. Using program-shift, you can also set any combination of shutter speed and aperture you like, without having to switch to another mode.
 
I can't believe this thread has generated such a discussion.

Use what's appropriate for each shot. There's literally no such thing as a "best" aperture. If the shot needs a shallow depth of field, open up.. if it needs maximum, close down. Simple as that.


Um, pretty much what I said earlier really :p
 
I walked into Winchester today, my M8 was set at f8 and infinity …….. if I needed to take a very quick shot, those were the settings, if I had a little time I attempted a better focus and if I had more time I considered the f value, etc., more accurately.
The M8 is good at almost any (slow) shutter speed

I think the OP was asking a general question ……. but you guys always have to answer the question that was not asked and then argue about it and then repeat what has already been said ……… obviously if I use my D700 and 600mm on a tripod/Gimbal I don't set it to a default f8 and infinity ………. but there (was) a general rule that said, once you have taken a shot return the camera to the settings that you are familiar with, i.e. your default setting, if you do not have time use those, if you have more time change them, if needed ……. photography in many instances is about getting the shot especially at a distance

see #2 for my other comments …….. some of you guys are like my copyright notice @Nuttipix.uk

On some threads Iv'e even seen someone repeat what another person has said then lower down in the thread argue against someone who has said the same as what they said

debate is debate …….. but night time brings the ghouls out
 
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Wow thanks to everyone who commented, I didn't realize i would get such a response was only expecting one or two to respond. After reading all the comments I think I will stick in in Program mode over Aperture mode and give that a go first, see how I get on. I wasn't looking as someone had said one aperture setting to use to take all my photo's i will adjust it accordingly to isolate subjects with a shall DOF or get a deeper DOF to get more of the scene in focus I was just looking as a few have pointed out a general f stop to use which means i can just grab my camera and take a picture and know it'll have what i want in focus instead of sitting adjusting settings and missing what i wanted to take a picture of.

I will be going to Las Vegas so daytime it's going to be bright sunshine (hopefully) and night time lots of bright neon lights to capture. Going to shoot RAW+ Jpeg incase i take something i want to work on when i get home to process more.
 
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The aperture is dependant on what type of shot you want to take and the subject. from wildlife to landscape, studio (portraits) to Motorsport, aviation to macro, all require different settings and also depends on the available light to take the shot.
 
Never heard "f8 and be there". Most common I heard was 50th @ f8.
Seemed to work most of the time with film cameras.
 
Most of the time i shoot at about F8 then adjust the iso to give me a good shutter speed,when i an out and about doing street stuff.

Other time what aperture suit the subject :)
 
Never heard "f8 and be there". Most common I heard was 50th @ f8.
Seemed to work most of the time with film cameras.

Really? Were you using ISO 12 film or something? Or just never go out during the day?

For the OP - I have my little Fuji that I use for street photography, set to f/11 1/250th 200 ISO as a starting point when a shallow depth of field, or slow/fast shutter speeds aren't needed. (Assuming the sun's out).
 
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i mostly use apature proitity, and auto iso. if your subject doesnt really move then your primarly interested in how much is in focus or not, and just keep a eye out for where the iso and shutter speed are, so u dont shoot at f16 1/2 25600 iso :D
 
Really? Were you using ISO 12 film or something? Or just never go out during the day?

For the OP - I have my little Fuji that I use for street photography, set to f/11 1/250th 200 ISO as a starting point when a shallow depth of field, or slow/fast shutter speeds aren't needed. (Assuming the sun's out).
Ive used iso25 film but never heard of iso 12, but it works for me on a cloudy day at iso200. And thats with a Fuji ( X30) too!
Allan
 
If I'm wandering about I leave my camera on f/8 and iso 200, gets about 1/250th which is pretty handy for a lot of situations. Best to have the camera set up relatively well for those fleeting moment shots, then you can change settings if you have more time.
 
'f8 and be there' - can't stand that one - You should be able to adjust to whatever lighting is in front of you within seconds of being there really.

The point it's a good starting point for a quick grab shot in aperture priority set f8 and point the camera at a reasonably lit scene and you'll get a useable result most of the time ideal for photo journalists where the shot might be gone in a second or tourists looking to take some general shots of the place and not really concentrating on the camera nothing worse than realising you shot that lovely view at f2.8 when you get home!

I don't understand why you would want to stick to one aperture all holiday?

For holiday snaps, my camera is in program mode 90% of the time unless I want to do something specific that requires adjusting either the shutter, aperture or on the rare occasion, both, so I adjust the camera modes accordingly.

The op was asking for a good starting point not a fixed aperture! If I look back through my holiday snaps 75% are general scenes shot at f8 which is why my camera is always set this when on my shoulder.
 
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i mostly use apature proitity, and auto iso. if your subject doesnt really move then your primarly interested in how much is in focus or not, and just keep a eye out for where the iso and shutter speed are, so u dont shoot at f16 1/2 25600 iso :D

I never use auto ISO, and do adjust the ISO, to suit the aperture. (Although I tend to keep it on 200). I might have to try this. :D I know it only takes seconds, but when you're out and about, sometimes there is no time to change, as the weather changes quickly this time of year. I'll have to make sure I set the ISO Max, though!

Some great tips on here for general use. I tend to stick to aperture priority, and f8 sounds quite obvious for general use (and I probably do use that a lot), but I never thought of it in general terms like that. I am forever adjusting it!

...That just sounded like gobbledygook! I know what I meant! :jawdrop:
 
The point it's a good starting point for a quick grab shot in aperture priority set f8 and point the camera at a reasonably lit scene and you'll get a useable result most of the time .


I don't think I have ever set my camera to f8 ... just in case. I would say you're better to set it to f/4 - 5.6 in aperture priority mode and you're pretty much ready for any situation, and won't suffer slower shutter speeds if it's not a bright day.
 
I never use auto ISO, and do adjust the ISO, to suit the aperture. (Although I tend to keep it on 200). I might have to try this. :D I know it only takes seconds, but when you're out and about, sometimes there is no time to change, as the weather changes quickly this time of year. I'll have to make sure I set the ISO Max, though!

Some great tips on here for general use. I tend to stick to aperture priority, and f8 sounds quite obvious for general use (and I probably do use that a lot), but I never thought of it in general terms like that. I am forever adjusting it!

...That just sounded like gobbledygook! I know what I meant! :jawdrop:

id use manual iso if camera's came with a extra scrolly wheel for the iso, sometimes atleast if im in a manual mood :). just pick what suits the situation and what you want todo, auto iso makes things fairly easy n point and shoot :). i do set iso about half the time with my sigma's
 
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