Best lens for Aurora photography?

M

MarkG

Messages
192
Name
Mark
Edit My Images
Yes
I'm heading up to the top of Norway later this year with hopes of spotting an Aurora Borealis (or hopefully several), and I'd like to pack a lens to capture it at its best. I already have the camera (Canon 7D), tripod (Manfrotto), trigger etc., so it's just the lens. I'll be taking my 15-85 walkabout lens anyway but for this job I feel something faster and optically better is in order given that this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I'll almost certainly hire from a well-known place, so expensive lenses will do very nicely!

Given that I'll be using a crop body, my research, coupled with gratefully received help from the people I'm going with, have pointed me towards the Canon 14mm f/2.8 L II.

Does anyone here have any experience of Aurora photography (I noted a few photos in the relevant section here), this lens (most reviews pair it with a full-frame body, so is it good for this intended use?) or suggestions for any other lens I should consider (I'm looking at £100 to hire the above lens, and I'd willingly go to £300 if there was a good enough reason to do so).

Thank you.
 
I don't know specifically about Canon lenses but fast and wide is the order of the day, 14mm f/2.8 seems a good shout.
 
Personally I'm not sure about the 14mm f/2.8 on a crop sensor. I don't think it's wide enough. On a full frame camera I'd be using a 16-35mm f/2.8 or (preferably) a 15mm f/2.8 fisheye, so on a 7D I'd go for a Canon 10-22mm, or a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, or a Sigma 10mm fisheye. The Canon 10-22 sounds less attractive because it's not f/2.8, but it's f/3.5 at the wide end and I don't think half a stop is a deal breaker.
 
On a crop body I'd say Tokina 11-16/2.8 all the way, it gets great reviews, I've really as wide on a crop body as your going to get while maintaining a f/2.8 aperture...

My AB experience is alas currently purely academic as unfortunanly my trip had to be cancelled, however in the not to distant future I hope to be able to book up again, but if I was taking a crop body to shoot it that is the lens I'd take without a shadow of a doubt
 
Samyang 24mm 1.4 would be in my bag for this... but you're on a crop body, and truly wide, fast lenses are hard to come by for crop sensor cameras. f2.8 is probably as good as it gets. If you're spending the money and time to head into the Arctic to shoot this.... just rent, borrow or buy a full frame camera... then get the cheap as chips but superb Samyang.... worth it. Sounds like a once in a lifetime thing for most people.


Bear in mind though, that aurora move quite slowly, and most of the images you see are long shutter speeds. It depends if you want to capture it as the eye sees it or not. It also depends on the brightness of the display at the time.. Faster lenses will increase your chances, and even if it's a very bright display, it means when you're stopped down to perhaps 2.8, you're not actually wide open... so it's sharper than a 2.8 lens would be wide open.
 
Last edited:
Do Samsung make EOS fit lenses?
 
I agree with Pookeyhead. The Samyang 24mm 1.4 with a ff camera (5D3) is the ideal combo for aurora. Hire the camera and buy the lens as you can always sell it on when you return.
I've been on AB trips to Iceland and Norway. Firstly, you don't need to go as wide as people seem to think. I had the samyang 14mm 2.8 with me also and barely used it, I favoured the 24 mm. Reason being that with too wide a lens you get a lot of unnecessary foreground that you will end up cropping out anyway. You can't capture the whole AB in one shot so don't try to. With f1.4 you can shoot around 6 or 8 sec exposures and capture more images than folk who do long exposures and end up with blurry stars and AB.
Here's a thread from my trip to Lofoten with example shots using the 5D3 and Samyang 24mm combo:
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/lofoten-islands-northern-lights-trip.471362/
 
Just in case anyone not familiar with this lens is not aware: It is NOT an auto focus lens. So if you are shooting wide open (even if you're not actually).. a zoomed in live view focus pre shoot is the way to go.
 
I found my Canon 10-22 was the lens I have used most for aurora shots on visits to both Norway and Finland. It did the job for me. On my first trip my shots were a bit underexposed but my second trip made up for this. I use a 450D.
 
Hi Mark, I went earlier this year to Tromso in Norway and wrote this blog which might help you. http://squashimagery.wordpress.com/...raphing-the-northern-lights-in-tromso-norway/

Wide is good, as is fast for lenses. One of the local guides who was a pro tog as well used a Samyang 14mm and loved it. The AB do move so the quicker the shutter speed you can get the better 10-20secs is generally ideal. Different settings produce differing results. Capturing 'as the eye sees' would be rubbish however as its very difficult to see with the naked eye and very unimpressive generally! Sensors detect colour way better than the eye does in the dark. I took a 17-40mm on a FF and a 24-70mm but found the 24mm wasn't wide enough generally.

Anyway, enjoy and have great fun. There is something truly magical about them!

Edit - You would always need to Manual Focus to Infinity anyway so non-auto is not a problem!
 
Last edited:
Looking at Samsung's own page of SLR lenses, they seem to all be NX fit rather than EOS and there's no 24mm let alone an f/1.4 version. Samyang (keys are too far apart to be a typo...) is a whole different ball game.
 
Nod said:
Looking at Samsung's own page of SLR lenses, they seem to all be NX fit rather than EOS and there's no 24mm let alone an f/1.4 version. Samyang (keys are too far apart to be a typo...) is a whole different ball game.
Click to expand...

Has it occurred to you it maybe a autocorrect issue rather than a typo although I cannot see a mention of Samsung
 
Pookeyhead said:
Just in case anyone not familiar with this lens is not aware: It is NOT an auto focus lens. So if you are shooting wide open (even if you're not actually).. a zoomed in live view focus pre shoot is the way to go.
Click to expand...
Could you use something like a bahtinov mask? You'd focus on the stars and get a perfect focus on "infinity", but I'm not sure if that would be any good for the AB them selves, as they are obviously a lot closer in the atmosphere.
 
maninsuitcase said:
Could you use something like a bahtinov mask? You'd focus on the stars and get a perfect focus on "infinity", but I'm not sure if that would be any good for the AB them selves, as they are obviously a lot closer in the atmosphere.
Click to expand...


Trouble is it's so dark out there (and jeffin' cold) using live view is a bit tricky. The best way I found was to check where your lens focuses on infinity in daylight (it's not always fully at one end) and then remember that when setting up.

Oh and the AB are far enough away to be infinite as far as a WA lens is concerned!
 
Rich_Ellis said:
Trouble is it's so dark out there (and jeffin' cold) using live view is a bit tricky. The best way I found was to check where your lens focuses on infinity in daylight (it's not always fully at one end) and then remember that when setting up.

Oh and the AB are far enough away to be infinite as far as a WA lens is concerned!
Click to expand...
If you are mask focusing you take a shot, review and adjust. Just gives you a clear measure of how far off you are rather than guessing.
 
MWHCVT said:
Has it occurred to you it maybe a autocorrect issue rather than a typo although I cannot see a mention of Samsung
Click to expand...

I did wonder but later in his post David has typed Samyang, hence my slight confusion. With both the named companies making lenses, I feel it's important to get details correct.
 
Nod said:
I did wonder but later in his post David has typed Samyang, hence my slight confusion. With both the named companies making lenses, I feel it's important to get details correct.
Click to expand...

It's pretty damn easy to slightly mistype Samyang and it auto correct to Samsung, to be honest it strikes me as being picky for the sake of it, and why do that get to me, well as someone who openly admits to making a lot of typos it can be damn annoying to have stuff like that picked apart

Given Samsung do not make Canon EOS fit lens it seems a pretty obvious typo, especially as the correct name is mentioned further in the post :(
 
maninsuitcase said:
Could you use something like a bahtinov mask? You'd focus on the stars and get a perfect focus on "infinity", but I'm not sure if that would be any good for the AB them selves, as they are obviously a lot closer in the atmosphere.
Click to expand...


Like this one I made earlier?? LOL

zYrCCZ6.jpg


They only really work at higher magnifications. Certainly wouldn't work at 24mm on a 35mm camera, and you'd never be able to accurately make on small enough... not without a laser cutter, and they certainly don't sell them small enough so far as I know. They're for the end of telescopes.

QIfY0WZ.jpg


You can still live view zoom on a star though
 
Last edited:
I make plenty of typos too but I usually correct them when I read the post back before hitting the Post Reply button. I'm a crap typist so have to watch my fingers to see what keys I'm hitting then read back to make sure my fat fingers haven't hit other keys as well.

I know David's excuse is that he isn't at work but when he's trying to educate, he should try to be accurate.

As it happens, I'm off to Iceland in March so am interested in lenses to take so when I saw David's recommendation of a Samsung 24mm f/1.4, I went off to look for the lens and wasted some time on a fruitless search for it. Not sure if Stewart at LFH keeps the Samyang (which incidentally doesn't get flagged by my autocorrect...) lens - will go and look shortly.
 
Nod said:
I make plenty of typos too but I usually correct them when I read the post back before hitting the Post Reply button. I'm a crap typist so have to watch my fingers to see what keys I'm hitting then read back to make sure my fat fingers haven't hit other keys as well.

I know David's excuse is that he isn't at work but when he's trying to educate, he should try to be accurate.
Click to expand...

Oh FFS... it's a typo. I'm not getting paid for this shizzle! LOL You make it sound like I'm OBLIGED to check for typos... it's an internet forum.. I'm busy. I multi-task... sh*t happens.

Yes.. OF COURSE I meant Samyang, and YES, I was on a iPad that auto corrected it. Sheesh!... I think most people realised it was a typo, but the original post has been edited now. Also.. it said CLEARLY, that it was the SAMYANG lens further along in the SAME post.
 
Last edited:
maninsuitcase said:
Yours is much tidier than mine! I suspect you cheated and got a machine to cut it.
Click to expand...

Laser cutter cheesecake :)

maninsuitcase said:
If you are mask focusing you take a shot, review and adjust. Just gives you a clear measure of how far off you are rather than guessing.
Click to expand...

I use live view on the camera that's attached to the scope with my mask. Much easier than shooting/focus/review.
 
Last edited:
Pookeyhead said:
You can still live view zoom on a star though
Click to expand...

When I was up there I used the Live View focussing method on the first night. i thought I had nailed it but at 17mm in total darkness the screen goes really grainy and its really difficult to focus properly. I failed and my 1st night shots were all soft. I learned my lesson and learned where infinity was on my lens. All other shots from the trip were crisp. Just my experience is all!
 
+1 for the Tokina 11-16

I used it on my crop when I went to Norway to see the Northern Lights. It's sharp across the frame even at f/2.8, lovely lens!
 
Nod said:
I make plenty of typos too but I usually correct them when I read the post back before hitting the Post Reply button. I'm a crap typist so have to watch my fingers to see what keys I'm hitting then read back to make sure my fat fingers haven't hit other keys as well.

I know David's excuse is that he isn't at work but when he's trying to educate, he should try to be accurate.

As it happens, I'm off to Iceland in March so am interested in lenses to take so when I saw David's recommendation of a Samsung 24mm f/1.4, I went off to look for the lens and wasted some time on a fruitless search for it. Not sure if Stewart at LFH keeps the Samyang (which incidentally doesn't get flagged by my autocorrect...) lens - will go and look shortly.
Click to expand...

You wasted time on the internet!
What a terrible affrontery.
 
Given that I'm partially sighted and thus make typos a lot, I find the whole Samyang/Samsung auto-correct debate in this thread rather amusing. :)

Anyway, I'd already looked at the Samyang 14mm, but due to my eyesight find the manual set-up a bit worrisome (yes, I know I'll have to focus manually, but 10x live view helps with that). Same would apply to the 24mm I guess.

Already ruled out the Canon 10-22mm due to being as slow as my 15-85 at the wide end. Yes, I get the extra 5mm but as has already been stated, getting really wide shots isn't everything.

Hadn't considered the option of hiring a 5D3, but I'm not sure my back can handle two camera bodies plus lenses (I'm doing other things where I'd rather risk my own kit than hired stuff). Will check that option out anyway. Will also look at the Tokina.

Don't think I'll be making any diffraction gratings any time soon, but thanks for the suggestion nonetheless.
 
Last edited:
MarkG said:
Hadn't considered the option of hiring a 5D3, but I'm not sure my back can handle two camera bodies plus lenses (I'm doing other things where I'd rather risk my own kit than hired stuff).
Click to expand...

I found the weight of the kit is not to much of a bother other than for the flight due to the fact we never wandered to far from the vehicle on an arctic night. That's assuming you will have a vehicle and be out of town when trying for the aurora. Even in the towns you will find the weather will stop you wandering about to much at night. Yes it's a tad chilly.
 
Big Andy said:
Even in the towns you will find the weather will stop you wandering about to much at night. Yes it's a tad chilly.
Click to expand...
That's a good point which is worth emphasising. Earlier this year I went to Tromso and the weather there wasn't too bad - overnight lows of around -5. But on one of our aurora hunting trips we went inland towards the Finnish border and it was *much* colder there, closer to -20. Plus, of course, you tend to be standing around not doing much.
 
MarkG said:
Anyway, I'd already looked at the Samyang 14mm, but due to my eyesight find the manual set-up a bit worrisome (yes, I know I'll have to focus manually, but 10x live view helps with that). Same would apply to the 24mm I guess.

Already ruled out the Canon 10-22mm due to being as slow as my 15-85 at the wide end. Yes, I get the extra 5mm but as has already been stated, getting really wide shots isn't everything.

Hadn't considered the option of hiring a 5D3, but I'm not sure my back can handle two camera bodies plus lenses (I'm doing other things where I'd rather risk my own kit than hired stuff). Will check that option out anyway. Will also look at the Tokina.

Don't think I'll be making any diffraction gratings any time soon, but thanks for the suggestion nonetheless.
Click to expand...

At night everything will be manual focus. Setting in on infinity shouldn't be a difficult task.

If you hire go for 1Dx or D4s. Files will be cleaner at stupid ISOs. Realistically I don't like pushing 5D3 over 3200, and you want to be closer to 5000. Maybe Samyang 24mm f/1.4 is the best compromise giving you more breathing space with the ISO. f/2.8 is marginal, but great for big skies.
 
Now the typo issue is sorted, can anyone tell me if the Samyang 24mm f/1.4 allows the use of the body wheel to adjust the aperture or if it's 100% manual in that respect as well as focus?
 
What about a Ziess 21mm. Bit wider than 24mm and is 2.8?

I've not used mine for astro work as its not an interest of mine, but it would be great for day time shooting as with big mountains 21mm is a nice focal length
 
It's probably a one off for my use, being wanted for a 10 day Iceland trip next year. I've had a quick scout for a second hand one but not a proper search yet. Plenty of time to find one before the trip. Knowing my luck, the AB won't show anyway! I have a 12-24 and an 8 fisheye but both are relatively slow so not ideal, although the D700 is very capable at high ISOs. I suppose the 18mm on the XT1 is fairly wide and reasonably fast as another option.

Thanks for the answers.
 
The zeiss is good in that to focus on infinity its normally a case of turning the ring as far as it goes, easy to do in the dark.
I've owned it and used it for AB. But with 2 stops faster I prefer the samyang 24mm, which is also about a third of the price.
All other settings being equal, if I'm shooting for 6 secs with the samyang, you need 24 secs with the zeiss or any other 2.8. Its a big difference.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top