Canon EOS R Series Cameras

Slightly random question. R5

I have never really used the "automatic" focus point option but with eye detect its really quite useful as it picks the eye without me having to press the AF-on button so the camera just constantly follows the subject around the screen with a white box - not a new revolation of course - as I am sure you guys have all seen this

What I am wondering though - as I use back button focus and a press of the shutter button ONLY locks the metering do i still need to press AF on to get it to focus on that white box (i.e for it to turn blue)?

OR will the camera auto focus based on the subject moving around the screen automatically without me pressing the AF on button?

The reason I ask is that I want to do some remote shooting with an intravaloperometer (I can never spell that word) or remote trigger for want of a better word. In this circumstance I won't have access to the AF on button - so do I need to remap AF-on to the shutter button as the remote shutter simulates the shutter button press of course.

Hope that makes sense
 
A_S said:
Slightly random question. R5

I have never really used the "automatic" focus point option but with eye detect its really quite useful as it picks the eye without me having to press the AF-on button so the camera just constantly follows the subject around the screen with a white box - not a new revolation of course - as I am sure you guys have all seen this

What I am wondering though - as I use back button focus and a press of the shutter button ONLY locks the metering do i still need to press AF on to get it to focus on that white box (i.e for it to turn blue)?

OR will the camera auto focus based on the subject moving around the screen automatically without me pressing the AF on button?

The reason I ask is that I want to do some remote shooting with an intravaloperometer (I can never spell that word) or remote trigger for want of a better word. In this circumstance I won't have access to the AF on button - so do I need to remap AF-on to the shutter button as the remote shutter simulates the shutter button press of course.

Hope that makes sense
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Kinda depends on your subject I guess - what will you be shooting with the remote? I use 2 back button AF - I have one button for tracking and one for static and you can also use the rear screen to focus (and NOT shoot). Which intervalometer/remote are you using? I have a feeling you may have to pre-focus when using an intervalometer.
 
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just doing some tests on my cat - i am holding string and playing with her camera on floor about 50cm away - holding the remote shutter in my other hand to shoot - hence I don't have access to any of the back buttons to focus. So in this case I mapped the AF back to the shutter button to make sure a press of the remote shutter activated the focus - but I wasn't sure if I needed to do this or not - i.e whether the automatic focus point selection kept the subject it was tracking in focus at all times or only when the AF was triggered (in which case I need the shutter button to start focus).
 
psybear said:
The tumbleweed would suggest that no-one here has made this particular jump.... ;)
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I'm a dance photographer, which means that Nikons are mandatory. Well, Nikon DSLRs, at least. I've recently upgraded from a Nikon D800 (10 years old) to a D5 and a D6, but as soon as I can take a break between shoots, I'm switching to a Canon R6 II (don't tell any of the other dance photographers!) From what I've been told and read online, it sounds like the Nikon range (Z9 etc) isn't that much lighter than what I currently have, and its handling of low light is not great. By contrast, the Canon range is much lighter, plus extremely good with low light, so it's a no-brainer for me.

Unfortunately, I've got to wait till either I get a new job, or can sell either or both of my cameras before I can make the switch... :confused:
 
Just tried out the R3, what a piece of kit, AF performance is unreal, much lighter in the hand than it looks.
 
Tysonator said:
I would love to use an R3 for the day !
I know, there is always the Canon Test Drive, and then I would like to try a very expensive lens to go with,.....wonder how much the deposit would be ! ! lol
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£1250 deposit for the R3 !!
 
Wellsyboy said:
Kinda depends on your subject I guess - what will you be shooting with the remote? I use 2 back button AF - I have one button for tracking and one for static and you can also use the rear screen to focus (and NOT shoot). Which intervalometer/remote are you using? I have a feeling you may have to pre-focus when using an intervalometer.
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Tested it tonight. Worked pretty well but I did need to remap AF to the shutter button otherwise it didn't seem to track. Lets hope the upload doesn't take too much detail out of these - they are sharp on the originals, maybe slightly shallow DOP to get the nose as well as the eyes but the eye tracking worked well with me standing away from the camera and placing the treat on the scratching post then just ramming the shutter button on the wired trigger from about 2m away from the camera

5G4A2311.jpg5G4A2316.jpg5G4A2327.jpg5G4A2338.jpg
 
Wolf in the snow

full
 
A_S said:
Tested it tonight. Worked pretty well but I did need to remap AF to the shutter button otherwise it didn't seem to track. Lets hope the upload doesn't take too much detail out of these - they are sharp on the originals, maybe slightly shallow DOP to get the nose as well as the eyes but the eye tracking worked well with me standing away from the camera and placing the treat on the scratching post then just ramming the shutter button on the wired trigger from about 2m away from the camera

View attachment 413476View attachment 413477View attachment 413478View attachment 413479
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Interested in how you are doing this as my understanding was different. Are you saying that if you have AF assigned to the shutter button the camera autofocuses when you hit the remote shutter?
 
rob-nikon said:
Canon RS-60E3
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Wellsyboy said:
Interested in how you are doing this as my understanding was different. Are you saying that if you have AF assigned to the shutter button the camera autofocuses when you hit the remote shutter?
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I thought that remote switches were two step, one to autofocus and the second to release the shutter. All my Canon cameras are set the BBF and I have not had to change any settings when using a remote. However I have not tried it yet on my R7.
 
Brentor said:
I thought that remote switches were two step, one to autofocus and the second to release the shutter. All my Canon cameras are set the BBF and I have not had to change any settings when using a remote. However I have not tried it yet on my R7.
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I’ve not got the R6 any more so can’t test it out but I seem to remember when using the remote switch it would only activate the shutter as I always used BBF for landscapes (ie af-on button to focus and remote switch to activate the shutter).
 
Just to be clear on what i was doing

Normally i have my standard shutter button set to lock exposure only - NO FOCUS

I focus using one of 3 back button options I have set

In the scenario i am talking about I was triggering the shutter button with a wired remote. So if i was using normal spot or single point AF mode the camera would not activate focus for obvious reasons - I had not got focus mapped to the shutter button and I was pressing the shutter button via a wired remote

The scenario was that if i put "automatic" AF point selection (rather than point set from face detect or point set from spot/zone/expanded area) i,e the mode where you DONT get a focus point at all and the camera selects that point

The question was - does this focus mode adjust focus automatically (in servo) to keep whatever its "tracked" in focus without the need to actuate focus

OR

Do i still need to actuate focus somehow I.e the tracking follows the object but does not adjust focus until you actuate AF-ON be it via back button or shutter button.


It turns out YOU DO need to actuate focus for it to keep the tracked subject in focus. I.e it does not adjust focus unless you press your desired focus button - it just tracks the object.


Therefore if I am standing 2m away from the subject with my remote shutter - I need to map the focus to the shutter button (rather than AF-on or AE lock on the back of the camera) for it to start servo focus and focus tracking for the subject the automatic tracking had picked up - and of course by mapping AF back to the shutter button, the remote is only mimicking the action of the shutter button so as soon as you half or full press the remote it will start focussing.

Hope that makes sense. let me know if it doesn't
 
A_S said:
Just to be clear on what i was doing

Normally i have my standard shutter button set to lock exposure only - NO FOCUS

I focus using one of 3 back button options I have set

In the scenario i am talking about I was triggering the shutter button with a wired remote. So if i was using normal spot or single point AF mode the camera would not activate focus for obvious reasons - I had not got focus mapped to the shutter button and I was pressing the shutter button via a wired remote

The scenario was that if i put "automatic" AF point selection (rather than point set from face detect or point set from spot/zone/expanded area) i,e the mode where you DONT get a focus point at all and the camera selects that point

The question was - does this focus mode adjust focus automatically (in servo) to keep whatever its "tracked" in focus without the need to actuate focus

OR

Do i still need to actuate focus somehow I.e the tracking follows the object but does not adjust focus until you actuate AF-ON be it via back button or shutter button.


It turns out YOU DO need to actuate focus for it to keep the tracked subject in focus. I.e it does not adjust focus unless you press your desired focus button - it just tracks the object.


Therefore if I am standing 2m away from the subject with my remote shutter - I need to map the focus to the shutter button (rather than AF-on or AE lock on the back of the camera) for it to start servo focus and focus tracking for the subject the automatic tracking had picked up - and of course by mapping AF back to the shutter button, the remote is only mimicking the action of the shutter button so as soon as you half or full press the remote it will start focussing.

Hope that makes sense. let me know if it doesn't
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thanks for sharing. I've never tried auto focus with remote shutter, I've always fixed the focus. Good to know it can work.
 
TimHughes said:
thanks for sharing. I've never tried auto focus with remote shutter, I've always fixed the focus. Good to know it can work.
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Yes it does work as long as you have the shutter button set to af on plus ae lock.

If you have the shutter button set to lock the exposure only then you aren’t telling the camera to focus whether you use the on camera button or a remote.

The remote will only actuate the AF if the shutter button has AF mapped to it because the remote is simulating the shutter button press

Hope that’s clear - I am struggling to articulate in the way I’d like to.

——

In my example I wanted to know whether the total auto mode constantly focused when tracking the subject or whether the focus plain stayed still until you pressed your af on button whatever that may be

The answer was yes - unless you press af on your image won’t be focused.

IMG_5849.jpeg


So in my specific example - to stand away from the camera with a remote and fire off a load of shots in ‘auto’ mode I still needed a way to get the focus tracking to start.

To bring this back full circle —> to do so remotely I had to map AF back to the shutter button as the remote simulates the shutter button press and auto as above does not keep the subject focused until you start focus yourself
 
A_S said:
Yes it does work as long as you have the shutter button set to af on plus ae lock.

If you have the shutter button set to lock the exposure only then you aren’t telling the camera to focus whether you use the on camera button or a remote.

The remote will only actuate the AF if the shutter button has AF mapped to it because the remote is simulating the shutter button press

Hope that’s clear - I am struggling to articulate in the way I’d like to.

——

In my example I wanted to know whether the total auto mode constantly focused when tracking the subject or whether the focus plain stayed still until you pressed your af on button whatever that may be

The answer was yes - unless you press af on your image won’t be focused.

View attachment 413603


So in my specific example - to stand away from the camera with a remote and fire off a load of shots in ‘auto’ mode I still needed a way to get the focus tracking to start.

To bring this back full circle —> to do so remotely I had to map AF back to the shutter button as the remote simulates the shutter button press and auto as above does not keep the subject focused until you start focus yourself
Click to expand...
Thanks yes it’s clear
 
A_S said:
Yes it does work as long as you have the shutter button set to af on plus ae lock.

If you have the shutter button set to lock the exposure only then you aren’t telling the camera to focus whether you use the on camera button or a remote.

The remote will only actuate the AF if the shutter button has AF mapped to it because the remote is simulating the shutter button press

Hope that’s clear - I am struggling to articulate in the way I’d like to.

——

In my example I wanted to know whether the total auto mode constantly focused when tracking the subject or whether the focus plain stayed still until you pressed your af on button whatever that may be

The answer was yes - unless you press af on your image won’t be focused.

View attachment 413603


So in my specific example - to stand away from the camera with a remote and fire off a load of shots in ‘auto’ mode I still needed a way to get the focus tracking to start.

To bring this back full circle —> to do so remotely I had to map AF back to the shutter button as the remote simulates the shutter button press and auto as above does not keep the subject focused until you start focus yourself
Click to expand...
This is excellent; I’m guessing what you’d want to do with these settings (as there’s lots to change from your ‘normal’ setup, is to set them to a custom setting.
One other question; I’ve got 2 BBF options, how are you getting 3? And what are the 3? That sounds interesting.

I have 2 AF on for inanimate objects and * for eye af.
 
rob-nikon said:
I’ve not got the R6 any more so can’t test it out but I seem to remember when using the remote switch it would only activate the shutter as I always used BBF for landscapes (ie af-on button to focus and remote switch to activate the shutter).
Click to expand...

I have checked and I agree with you.
 
Phil V said:
This is excellent; I’m guessing what you’d want to do with these settings (as there’s lots to change from your ‘normal’ setup, is to set them to a custom setting.
One other question; I’ve got 2 BBF options, how are you getting 3? And what are the 3? That sounds interesting.

I have 2 AF on for inanimate objects and * for eye af.
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To be honest I don't use it enough to bother setting it as a custom setting - but thats an option - although those custom functions and how to set them have always scared me - the C1, C2, C3 etc on the dial and I presume that the custom setting in the RX camera are exactly that.

In terms of what I have mapped:

AF-On =

Standard shutter button where I choose my mode pressing the Cfn dial - be it eye tracking, spot, single point, AF area etc. Usually set this as "tracking" so if I want to track a car it picks up the car and follows it for me and i can frame as desired.

*/ AE lock =

Expanded AF point mode so if the car is coming towards me, a situation where the "tracking" often doesn't pick up the part of the car I want, i use this so i am in control of where the camera focuses

AF point selection (i.e the far right button at the top) =

I have this mapped to eye detect so if i want to track a person or animal I can use this button. I think i still need the main focus setting to be "tracking" for it to track the eye though.

Hope that helps.
 
imattersuk said:
Cat amongst pigeons today, tried the Z8 alongside the R5 & R3, have to say build quality and finish is substantially higher than the R5 & R3, surprised how much difference there was.
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IF R5 mkII doesn't substantially improve on it then to hell with canon for good. These are worst body builds I had in the whole decade from them.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
IF R5 mkII doesn't substantially improve on it then to hell with canon for good. These are worst body builds I had in the whole decade from them.
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I think the EOS R and RP are about right to be fair but as you move up the range there should be a substantial improvement which there is not.

Panasonic, Fuji and Nikon all seem to be similar these days, Sony slightly below, OM Systems was just ok, I can see why people complain about their wheels and buttons.

Having said all that it's the same for cars, TV's and just about anything these days, standards of build and finish have dropped as technology improves.
 
imattersuk said:
I think the EOS R and RP are about right to be fair but as you move up the range there should be a substantial improvement which there is not.

Panasonic, Fuji and Nikon all seem to be similar these days, Sony slightly below, OM Systems was just ok, I can see why people complain about their wheels and buttons.

Having said all that it's the same for cars, TV's and just about anything these days, standards of build and finish have dropped as technology improves.
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No complaints about the R5 and R build quality from me. I've yet to try the R3. Still have the 1DXm2 and waiting to see the R1.
 
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I recently purchased some Canon equipment and have submitted a claim for cashback. Before the purchase, I registered for Canon Club Membership because that would would entitle me to some additional discount. As part of the cashback processing, Canon have now notified me that they don't have my Canon Club Membership number. Does anyone know where to find this? I registered for Canon Club Membership here: https://account.canon.co.uk/s/my-account, but there is no obvious membership number to be found in any of the profile pages.
 
maarten.dhaese said:
I recently purchased some Canon equipment and have submitted a claim for cashback. Before the purchase, I registered for Canon Club Membership because that would would entitle me to some additional discount. As part of the cashback processing, Canon have now notified me that they don't have my Canon Club Membership number. Does anyone know where to find this? I registered for Canon Club Membership here: https://account.canon.co.uk/s/my-account, but there is no obvious membership number to be found in any of the profile pages.
Click to expand...

My no is shown under the My account section/membership.
 
imattersuk said:
Cat amongst pigeons today, tried the Z8 alongside the R5 & R3, have to say build quality and finish is substantially higher than the R5 & R3, surprised how much difference there was.
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It’s a very robust body that’s for sure. I’ve been lusting over an rf.
 
For some reason had issues with lockups on my R5 yesterday happened 3 times very frustrating one occasion the camera didn’t record the images in a burst of about 6 shots
am using a Delkin black 150GB CF express and transcend 64GB sd card
I took out the Delkin card and didn’t have any more problems yesterday but won’t really know until tomorrow when I’m out again to the zoo
updated the firmware to version 19.0 this morning, the Canon US site says among others that this version fixes minor issues
will try again tomorrow hopefully all is good now, a shame really as the camera has been fine for a while , if it happens again (without the CF express card ) I’ll be sending it back for repair
luckily I bought it from Panamoz who do a 3 year warranty
 
addicknchips said:
It’s a very robust body that’s for sure. I’ve been lusting over an rf.
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Well sounds like they are not perfect either. Of course one is REALLY not supposed to DROP their cameras but on the other hand the sensor guard blades should be really installed in a more fail-proof manner, which would cost them like an extra $1 for a better set of screws, etc. Again, you are not supposed to drop them, but what about extensive vibration during transit on rubbish roads, etc.
You would think a major OEM would do extensive stress testing, but probably these days they only do software simulations like with new cars :headbang:
 
LCPete said:
For some reason had issues with lockups on my R5 yesterday happened 3 times very frustrating one occasion the camera didn’t record the images in a burst of about 6 shots
am using a Delkin black 150GB CF express and transcend 64GB sd card
I took out the Delkin card and didn’t have any more problems yesterday but won’t really know until tomorrow when I’m out again to the zoo
updated the firmware to version 19.0 this morning, the Canon US site says among others that this version fixes minor issues
will try again tomorrow hopefully all is good now, a shame really as the camera has been fine for a while , if it happens again (without the CF express card ) I’ll be sending it back for repair
luckily I bought it from Panamoz who do a 3 year warranty
Click to expand...
good plan. Do a stress test of the CF card on the PC with a known good reader. There must be tons of apps for this.

Also test R5 with a DIFFERENT CF card, in case the problem is with the CF slot
 
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IMG_5905.jpeg

Has anyone experienced this? It’s happened to me 3-4 times now - was very wet this morning but had dried up by about 1pm

This photo was taken at about 4.30…. Was in the car for 40 mins but outside the rest of time tine

Also had an issue of the rear element of my 100-500 constantly condensating in the afternoon to the extent that I had to take the lens off every 2 minutes to let the condensation disipate. No issue with my ef 24-105. Could only think that a.) it didn’t get as wet because I wasn’t using it in the morning and b the distance between the rear element and the warm camera/sensor is greater
 
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