Canon EOS R Series Cameras
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Not sure what I’ve got set up wrong with my R5. but if I ever spin the rear dial and the front dial it always alters the exposure compensation! Really annoying but I can’t figure out how to turn it off, any ideas?
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Orange Menu 3 -> Customize Dials
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Problem with Canon R5, if anyone can help.
I have been trying different settings with the menus. Someway somehow I have lost the focus point in the view finder and cannot change from manual focus to Auto focus.
Help would be much appreciated.
I have been trying different settings with the menus. Someway somehow I have lost the focus point in the view finder and cannot change from manual focus to Auto focus.
Help would be much appreciated.
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Firstly make sure the switch on your lens is over at the AF position. Have you tried different lenses to eliminate the lens from the equation? Are you using an EF-RF adaptor?
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Thanks I’ll give it a go!
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Thanks for your reply. I have found the problem, I don't know how it could happen but the lens attachment to the camera body had somehow come slightly unscrewed, just gave it a slight twist and now everything seems okay.
LongLensPhotography
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I can tell you that 35mm art is working beautifully on both 5ds and R6...
Long and slow lenses may be a special case
Make sure firmware is up to date
LongLensPhotography
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I have to say I have mixed feelings about R6. Image quality and noise in particular is notably better than 5d3 where heavier lift is required. Ibis is wonderful. Af appears to be an improvement. Now battery life is an absolute joke and evf turned out far worse than expected (and I had very low expectations) in outdoors situations and totally unusable for real estate work. I'm bloody screaming. If video works out then fine otherwise I just wasted 2k on a good sensor in a really crap body that should have never been released in the current state. Even their phone app screen is s***. They really made sure end user interface is as terrible as possible
I'm back to DSLRs for most of my photo needs and 100% of Tripod work
I'm back to DSLRs for most of my photo needs and 100% of Tripod work
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An honest appraisal for once rather than the usual mirrorless hyperbole?
I have a Fuji system for when I want to travel light, but for everything else I use DSLR.
I was fortunate enough to attend the Goodwood Revival at the weekend and my ancient Canon 1DX and 400 L 5.6 hardly missed a beat.
Bird photography is my passion and is the only reason I would buy a Canon mirrorless camera given the eye/animal detection and AF system.
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@LongLensPhotography can you expand to explain the problems? I don't have R6, I have R5. With R5 I don't recognize any of the issues noted. In case you're wondering, I shot hotel rooms with the R5 last week with no issues at all.
LongLensPhotography
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That lens and video was essentially why I bought it. It transforms the lens from tripod or 1/1000s handheld shooting into very handholdable package as low as 1/100s, or slower than subject movement. And it has ridiculous sharpness wide open. I would say it just about beats 100-500. For birds in low contrast environment this is an easy sell. And get r5 if you can because you can crop more and lens is still perfectly sharp.
Sure my 24-70 will benefit from ibis too but it was pretty uncommon to get any shake with that one...
LongLensPhotography
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In a backlit room with brown wooden furniture you don't see a thing just contrasty outlines. Almost just white and black. Out of despair I set profile to faithful, contrast -4, full light optimiser, and that just barely lifted it a touch. I can't compose a shot and adjust furniture placement like that, I can't see what's going on. Adjusting cpl is outside fantasy zone. It's like you have to shoot blindly.
In this example I had already done the shot (and the whole shoot) with DSLR and just popped R6 in the same spot. It was unworkable. Flip screen is a lot sharper than evf, but too small and contrast issue remains. Even cannon connect app didn't help. So next up is usb cable to laptop which I'm really not looking forward to.
For video use I guess evf makes zero difference, and it's all down to floppy screen and mostly intuition and smooth movements... So that might still work if dynamic range is good enough.
I promise you it's far easier to keep shooting stills on 5d3 with ml hack. You get more noise but then you easily cover it with appropriate exposures. Obviously old dslr is almost useless for any video.
Outdoor it's a little better but you struggle with sunlit areas and shadows. You barely get basic highly pixelated outlines. R5 has slightly better evf resolution but does it have significantly better dynamic range close to real life? They are ok in low contrast environment but struggle with basic highlights
I tried higher FPS shooting passing cars and basically evf freezes for a moment between frames. You wonder if af still does the job, let alone if your little square is still in the right place. So I guess you must go for all auto af.
Menus and buttons are terrible on this thing. I spent ages configuring so most bases are finally covered for common operations but it still requires going through very lengthy menus every time to change absolute basics like setting bracketing or color temp. It's like it wants to be left in a+ mode... R5 may be better here, but still probably an obvious step back from 5d series.
I will be eagerly waiting for R5 ii or a7rv to offload this at the first opportunity. Meanwhile I wouldn't mind if it can pay for itself
LongLensPhotography
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My biggest mistake was not taking up canon equipment 2d loan offer. Seriously it's there for a very good reason
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A fair opinion and I have always been worried about the low res EVF and FF 20mp may be good for noise , however cropping will be an issue. So it means bigger glass for more reach, which mean a lot more money ! ! !
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My R7 is still on order so I am using my EOS 7Dii and Sony A6600 for the eye AF which is pretty bloody amazing and I really want the R7 for the eye AF. Other wise it is R6, R5 or Sony A7Riv, and the problem I have with Sony is I have no FF glass what so ever !
i adapt my canon L glass to the A6600 and yes I could the same with the A7Riv however the AF is slightly slower than native glass !
I tried an R5 at the photography show earlier this week. I'm not sure if the EVF was set to 60fps or 120, but it was rubbish looking through there to my eyes, coming from a nice optical one. How do people find it after having come from the likes of the 1D's and 5D's? I'm wondering if it was 60fps as it surely couldn't be that bad
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I have been using EVFs for a long time now, and current ones are really amazing to ones I had to put up with when I first started using EVF like 9 years ago. Then EVF had a number of limitations.
Honestly OVF just feels like a step backwards especially now that there barely any lag and you can track subjects with no issues. WYSIWYG is really worth it IMO. Wouldn't go back to OVFs or DSLRs for that matter.
Combined with the latest AF tech like eyeAF and blackout free shooting, I almost never need to check my pictures for exposure or focus. Basically means I never need to chimp.
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LongLensPhotography
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As above I find it absolutely unusable in more contrasty situation. There are sadly no alternatives for video capture and there you don't need to use the evf and that's that
LongLensPhotography
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Lucky you. I found it more than capable of poor exposure and blackouts and even evf stutter is still the thing until you go to z9.
Af is better for sure
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My current body does have shutter blackout but my previous body did not (sony A1). Canon R3, Sony A9/ii are also capable of shooting without blackout.
As far as I understand R5/6 are capable of shooting blackout free but takes a hit to the dynamic range and could have some rolling shutter in certain conditions.
You seem to have missed my point on WYSIWYG, any camera is capable of poor exposure but that is really on you. And thanks to the EVF you will know the exposure is poor without needing to chimp.
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LongLensPhotography
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Perhaps you can explain how it works then because I just see a preview of an image according to some irrelevant jpeg prole from the menus with arbitrary brightness that you can even adjust in menu. You can only go off histogram which is both tiny to spot small blown parts and very inaccurate (it's a JPEG version devoid of true dynamic range), meanwhile it still obscures a good bit of viewfinder. I don't know if Sony behaves better but canon still behaves like it's 2006
You still need to review every shot which is ironically harder due to changed button layout and assignment.
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I wonder if the one I used was set to 60fps. I found it laggy when moving the camera around at reasonably close range. It’s better than ones I’ve had on other cameras in the past but I was expecting more to be honest. Worth a test drive over a couple of days probably
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I think mirrorless is either something you either love or hate. Each to their own really. If you've been using DSLR's and OVF's for many years you likely instinctively now know how to get the best from the camera and any change is difficult. Muscle memory plays a huge part with controls button location as there is likely to be more of a change from DSLR's to mirrorless than different DSLR's of the same general model ie 5DIII and 5DIV etc. I know I felt best with Nikon cameras as that's what I've been used to and mainly used. I couldn't get on with Sony's, not because they are a bad camera just I've been used to a larger camera body so the smaller size didn't really work for me. My last Nikon camera was the D810 which is huge compared to Sony's A7RIII/A9 I used. The R6 is more Nikon D750 size which is a size that suits me personally (I loved the D750, one of the best cameras I've ever used).
It's coming up to nearly a year now that I've had the R6. I'm more used to the button layout/controls but still struggle at times. It doesn't help I've not used it much so far as I generally photograph through autumn-winter-spring and didn't get out much last winter/spring. It doesn't help I've had to change to back button focus to allow me to quick engage eye AF. I'm not used to BBF that much before so that been a learning curve, but to me it makes sense to use it now I can quickly swap eye AF.
I'm finding the EVF ok for me. I've not had a point where I've really noticed blackout or any swaying that's caused an issue. It likely helps I've not used a DSLR for 3+ years too so I'm more used to EVF's now. The benefits of mirrorless overweigh the negatives for me (animal eye AF is amazing for the times it works).
Looking at this video on YouTube it compares mechanical shutter and electronic shutter between 2:30 and 4:00.
View: https://youtu.be/mHxpcpU_Eog
There does look like there is a difference. between mechanical and electronic shutters. I've always used electronic shutter so maybe that's why I've not noticed anything.
This morning I was shooting towards the sun with EC set to -1 without an issue. Being able to see the exposure in the EVF helped to get the exposure correct for the look I was going for. I am noticing the EVF seems to be lighter than the rear screen, but the EVF is similar to the photos when I've imported them to Lightroom. That's something for me to be aware of. TBH I don't use the rear screen that much now as everything can be done through the EVF.
Canon R6 RF100-500
ISO250, f7.1, 1/320sec.
It's coming up to nearly a year now that I've had the R6. I'm more used to the button layout/controls but still struggle at times. It doesn't help I've not used it much so far as I generally photograph through autumn-winter-spring and didn't get out much last winter/spring. It doesn't help I've had to change to back button focus to allow me to quick engage eye AF. I'm not used to BBF that much before so that been a learning curve, but to me it makes sense to use it now I can quickly swap eye AF.
I'm finding the EVF ok for me. I've not had a point where I've really noticed blackout or any swaying that's caused an issue. It likely helps I've not used a DSLR for 3+ years too so I'm more used to EVF's now. The benefits of mirrorless overweigh the negatives for me (animal eye AF is amazing for the times it works).
Looking at this video on YouTube it compares mechanical shutter and electronic shutter between 2:30 and 4:00.
There does look like there is a difference. between mechanical and electronic shutters. I've always used electronic shutter so maybe that's why I've not noticed anything.
This morning I was shooting towards the sun with EC set to -1 without an issue. Being able to see the exposure in the EVF helped to get the exposure correct for the look I was going for. I am noticing the EVF seems to be lighter than the rear screen, but the EVF is similar to the photos when I've imported them to Lightroom. That's something for me to be aware of. TBH I don't use the rear screen that much now as everything can be done through the EVF.
Canon R6 RF100-500
ISO250, f7.1, 1/320sec.
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I can’t imagine a camera being set up to the lowest spec at a photography show, unless someone before you either set it by mistake or intentionally.
LongLensPhotography
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They were, and in fact I changed a lot of them up to highest spec and seen almost no difference. The way the R6 come setup from factory is aimed at auto mode beginners, There is no way it is a professional grade camera even if the sensor is right up there.
At least Canon admit they are not ready to call this concoction their flagship. So they called it R3. And R1 is still nowhere to be seen and probably for a while. Nikon are a little braver, but you never know, they might release Z1 and call Z9 a second tier product...
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Not sure I entirely understand.... What does jpeg have to do with anything it is just a image format?
Essentially your eyes (through OVF) has far more dynamic range (~20+ stops) than your camera sensor (~12-15 stops) which has more dynamic range than the EVF (~9-10 stops) which has slightly more DR than monitors (~8-9 stops?) and there is further loss when you print.
So what you see in the OVF is hardly what your camera can capture and definitely no where close to what you can perceive on your monitor at home. EVF gives the closest impression to what the end result will be like.
You can change the EVF to have more contrast, saturation etc which I suppose is useful for JPEG shooters as that represents jpeg results you would get.
But for shooting RAW I leave it at the default which I later edit in PP. So my RAW files look exactly like what I saw in my EVF when I shot the picture.
I rarely review shots these days. There is no need to, because it's exactly as I would have seen it in my viewfinder before clicking to take the shot.
That's the whole point of WYSIWYG.
Previously I used to review to check focus but now there is barely any need for that either as 90-95% of the time things are in focus.
I don't use histograms unless I am shooting landscapes where I have time to pay attention to it. For shooting action, it just gets in the way at least for me.
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LongLensPhotography
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Forgive me for suggesting that this is 2 stops underexposed. At least. You had plenty of room to go way higher with ISO before seeing any noise.This morning I was shooting towards the sun with EC set to -1 without an issue. Being able to see the exposure in the EVF helped to get the exposure correct for the look I was going for. I am noticing the EVF seems to be lighter than the rear screen, but the EVF is similar to the photos when I've imported them to Lightroom. That's something for me to be aware of. TBH I don't use the rear screen that much now as everything can be done through the EVF.
Canon R6 RF100-500
ISO250, f7.1, 1/320sec.
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I must be unlucky.
Further problems with the R5 bought in June from Panamoz.
Cannot see anything on the rear screen and looking through the view finder the image is foggy or milky.
Just sent email to Tina asking what is to be done.
Just what I wanted as going on holiday in 6 weeks time.
Further problems with the R5 bought in June from Panamoz.
Cannot see anything on the rear screen and looking through the view finder the image is foggy or milky.
Just sent email to Tina asking what is to be done.
Just what I wanted as going on holiday in 6 weeks time.
LongLensPhotography
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Err no.... that's not how it works. So you are saying it is better to see far less colour and dynamic range than your scene contains, and in fact less than RAW files contains as opposed to seeing all of it and making qualified decisions.... This is making life very difficult.
The JPEG question is therefore indeed very relevant, because you are looking at 8bit subsample of data, 10bit if you are super lucky in some models, and you have no real idea where your data is clipping. or perhaps it isn't but you may be underexposing way too much because you just don't know... You are lucky if your subjects fit within 8bit of image that doesn't even need adjustments in post. That IS what you are seeing through that stupid damn EVF. My subjects start with 14-16bit of DR and can go way above 20.... hope you get the point that super contrasty 8bit concoction is next to useless.
Again sensor is capable of 14bit capture in one go vs contrasty 8bit preview. I for once need to know where captured data begins and where it ends, not the very middle of it.
By leaving settings in default you are making life super difficult for yourself.
Did you try the R3?
LongLensPhotography
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I briefly had it in my hand in the show. There was little point spending much time on it because of the price tag and same low 20s MP. It felt more responsive, but EVF didn't feel like a major leap forward - pretty much same as R5 or slightly better than R6. The shape is so much better on these but its hard to justify spending so much for that alone. Perhaps there is more in the details. I would rather have Z9 at that price point, and actually some change for a mid level lens.
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It was deliberately shot as a darker exposure to capture the golden backlight. Perhaps it is a bit too dark. I've boosted exposure below by 0.6 in Lightroom. If I boost it more it becomes more washed out and less of the look I was going for.
LongLensPhotography
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You shouldn't be afraid to fill the whole histogram. Specular highlights are 2 stops under and I would call them deep brown rather than golden. Of course you would have no idea if you are looking at EVF with high brightness setting in a dark environment and no RAW histogram to go with.
Anyway that's one for the critique, but the relevant point would be that this EVF thing won't tell you exactly where the exposure cut off point is. Or if it does then it will be only applicable to that particular JPEG if you were to shoot in that mode.
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I might be able to update my EOS 70D tomorrow.
Options are a 90D and stay on the "normal" DSLR's or change to the cropped sensor R10 with the adapter and the smaller viewfinder (new) or a second hand EOS RP meaning buying an adapter, Of these 2 the new R10 has Digic X but the RP Digic 8 which is full frame.
You might know I shoot mostly macro, so autofocus and fps isn't at the top of the agenda but low light, flash photos, and noise certainly is.
Opinions please?
Paul.
Options are a 90D and stay on the "normal" DSLR's or change to the cropped sensor R10 with the adapter and the smaller viewfinder (new) or a second hand EOS RP meaning buying an adapter, Of these 2 the new R10 has Digic X but the RP Digic 8 which is full frame.
You might know I shoot mostly macro, so autofocus and fps isn't at the top of the agenda but low light, flash photos, and noise certainly is.
Opinions please?
Paul.
