Cheapest 10 stop ND filter?

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I'm after a 77mm 10 stop ND filter and the cheapest I've seen it for is £71.96 at Fotosense. Has anyone seen it cheaper elsewhere please?
 
Weldin glass £3.50.
 
I just knew someone would put that, bit pricey though Lawrie ;)
 
Rooster said:
I'm after a 77mm 10 stop ND filter and the cheapest I've seen it for is £71.96 at Fotosense. Has anyone seen it cheaper elsewhere please?
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Cheapest I've seen. If they have it in stock...
 
Welding Glass = £1 .......

Adapter ring = £3.5 .....

Beating the overpricing of camera kit = priceless


Paul
 
Mike that isn't a 10 stop either :shrug:
 
Ajophotog said:
Mike that isn't a 10 stop either :shrug:
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It is actually - the largest they sell is 3 (and 0.3 one is one stop ND) which is 10 stop ND. It is still a rectangular one so imo the welding glass is better for the money :)
 
I'm getting confused now, I thought that was a 3stop :LOL: why is everything so damn complicated :LOL:
 
Ajophotog said:
Mike that isn't a 10 stop either :shrug:
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They do 1 stop (0.3) thru to 10 stop (3.0), its only £21.28 in the 85mm size

dalex_257 said:
It is actually - the largest they sell is 3 (and 0.3 one is one stop ND) which is 10 stop ND. It is still a rectangular one so imo the welding glass is better for the money :)
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I already have the cokin p series holder for use with my Hitech ND Grads, i feel having a filter that fits in the holder a better plan than messing with a welding glass.
 
dalex_257 said:
It is actually - the largest they sell is 3 (and 0.3 one is one stop ND) which is 10 stop ND. It is still a rectangular one so imo the welding glass is better for the money :)
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Actually, the HiTech ND are all square, not rectangular. But that doesn't really matter since it's not an NDG :shrug:

And yes, the 3.0 ND is ten-stop.
 
Just phoned HiTech. Their ten stopper is uncoated acrylic, same as B+W. Best news is that they will cut and mount it in a standard screw-in holder for £55, 77mm - takes a few days. Order direct on 01685 870 979.

Person I spoke to said there doesn't appear to be a problem with light leaks around the filter holder, but there can be problems with colour casts produced by infrared interference with some sensors. I would be very interested to hear of people's experience on both those things.
 
Cheers Mike that's all clear now ;)
I think I'll stick with the welding glass for the moment ;)
 
jollyjack said:
they only do it in 88 or 100mm :( i need a 67mm
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No you have it all wrong, they come in 85 or 100 filter size, the filter then goes into a holder which is held to your lens with an ADAPTER RING, you buy the correct size adapter ring then slot the holder onto the end of it where you can then slide the filters into. The 85mm filters work with the cokin P Series holders and rings so you can save a few quid buying that rather than Hitechs own which are 4 time more expensive. I do believe the Hitech holders are of better quality though.

Have a look at the cokin P Series pictures on the linky below....

http://www.cokin.fr/ico15/ico15-haut.html

The Hitech 85mm will work in the P series holder which is shown as 84mm in the pictures.

I was also confused by this all too unitl i actually seen it with my own eyes.
 
I have a cheap Cokin P holder and 67mm adaptor ring which I got from a Hong Kong supplier on Ebay. However, it does not appear to be light-proof - the glass would not be held snug against the adaptor but a slight distance in front of it.

The reason I want to splash out on the proper 10 stop is that I got the welder's glass but was disappointed with the results - my pictures were full of grainy noise when I converted them to black and white. I assumed that this was due to the optical qualities of the glass, though I'm not so sure now as many others are producing lovely crisp shots with them. I was shooting at F/22, iso 100 for up to 90 seconds on a dull day, maybe I needed to let more light in?
 
Mr Mike said:
I already have the cokin p series holder for use with my Hitech ND Grads, i feel having a filter that fits in the holder a better plan than messing with a welding glass.
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The welding glass is actually Cokin P size (pretty much all of them) and feet in the holder so there is no difference really.
 
Rooster said:
I have a cheap Cokin P holder and 67mm adaptor ring which I got from a Hong Kong supplier on Ebay. However, it does not appear to be light-proof - the glass would not be held snug against the adaptor but a slight distance in front of it.
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Yeah you'll need to block the light with something but you should be able to get a useable result with it.

The reason I want to splash out on the proper 10 stop is that I got the welder's glass but was disappointed with the results - my pictures were full of grainy noise when I converted them to black and white. I assumed that this was due to the optical qualities of the glass, though I'm not so sure now as many others are producing lovely crisp shots with them. I was shooting at F/22, iso 100 for up to 90 seconds on a dull day, maybe I needed to let more light in?
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Neither the filter nor aperture should cause grain. It's either sensor or processing. You'll get a cleaner image if you turn long exposure noise reduction on but have to wait around while your camera applies it before you take the shot. What are you doing to process them? Any chance of a before & after comparison?
 
Rooster said:
I have a cheap Cokin P holder and 67mm adaptor ring which I got from a Hong Kong supplier on Ebay. However, it does not appear to be light-proof - the glass would not be held snug against the adaptor but a slight distance in front of it.

The reason I want to splash out on the proper 10 stop is that I got the welder's glass but was disappointed with the results - my pictures were full of grainy noise when I converted them to black and white. I assumed that this was due to the optical qualities of the glass, though I'm not so sure now as many others are producing lovely crisp shots with them. I was shooting at F/22, iso 100 for up to 90 seconds on a dull day, maybe I needed to let more light in?
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That's long exposure sensor noise, nothing to do with the filter. Basic camera problem I'm afraid, and some are better than others.

Did you have long exposure noise reduction on? If you did, you'll know because the camera will have locked up for the same time as the exposure, while it re-ran the image to remove noise.
 
The Matt said:
Yeah you'll need to block the light with something but you should be able to get a useable result with it.



Neither the filter nor aperture should cause grain. It's either sensor or processing. You'll get a cleaner image if you turn long exposure noise reduction on but have to wait around while your camera applies it before you take the shot. What are you doing to process them? Any chance of a before & after comparison?
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I had long exposure/high ISO noise reduction switched on and had to wait while the camera chuntered away doing its thing after each shot but even if I do a simple desaturation in PE7 the sky is very grainy. Even Noise Ninja makes no appreciable difference. I can post the original and desaturated pic later today if you want to see. Come to think of it, I often get a grainy effect when using my IR filter so it probably isn't the glass.
 
Probably processing then. I've found desaturating by lightness produces a lot grainier image than by luminosity for example
 
i've waited 7 weeks so far for a 10 stop from Robert white, unfortunately the bigger you nee the more pricey they are, my 67mm cost 66 quid. cheapest i found.
 
Graham00 said:
i've waited 7 weeks so far for a 10 stop from Robert white, unfortunately the bigger you nee the more pricey they are, my 67mm cost 66 quid. cheapest i found.
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The simple DIY solution would be to buy any cheapo 77/82mm filter from ebay and get Hitec 85mm 10 stop ND (or 100mm 10 stop ND) for 22 (35 quid respectively) and then cut the round shape to the size of the filter and replace filter glass with the cut one. The filter is plastic (acrylic) so the cutting should not be difficult.
 
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