D7000 or D90 ?

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Bobbie
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After posting about upgrading from a D3000, I had decided to go for either a D90 or D7000, I really want sharper images, and i've since read that some of you are having trouble with the sharpness from the D7000.. so just wondering what the best option may be and why.. ? (going to handle both cameras before making a decision)
 
perhaps it was a couple of one off issues I was reading about.. I do really like the D7000
 
what would the best glass be to combine with a D7000? for every day use ? I currently have a nikon 35mm prime which I was intending to continue using..
 
D7000, I find it sharper than the D5100 I had before, which shares the same sensor.

D7000 was a big step up from the D90.
 
what would the best glass be to combine with a D7000? for every day use ? I currently have a nikon 35mm prime which I was intending to continue using..

Depends what you want to do with it and budget.

I have the 50mm 1.8G and the 35mm DX 1.8G and the 50mm 1.8G is sharpest lens I have on the D7000 but for me is a bit long for everyday use.
 
In what respect? Do you mean picture quality wise? I'm thinking of upgrading from a D90 to a D7000
Image quality from the Sony 16.2MP sensor with 14bit RAW

I can shoot "ISOless" with the D7000 due to low sensor read noise, which means I can shoot manual at base ISO (100) in low light conditions then bring back what appears to be a black image in DXO or LR.
 
Depends what you want to do with it and budget.

I have the 50mm 1.8G and the 35mm DX 1.8G and the 50mm 1.8G is sharpest lens I have on the D7000 but for me is a bit long for everyday use.


My main subject is ferrets, to which i work with at arms length, and thats why i bought the 35mm at the time, and ive got used to moving with it and as i have to work one handed its kinda tricky to zoom in and out by hand, so a single mm lens works fab for me.. ill have to try out a 50mm and see how well i could work with it :)

I'm pretty sure i'll be going for the D7000 tbh too.
 
Never had any problems with my D7000 either, it's a fantastic camera and I find the 35mm lens sharp enough for my liking. It's an excellent buy too at its price point at the moment. Never tried the D90 though so can't comment on that.
 
I have the D90 which is a great camera and never had any focus issues. I now own a D7000 and it seems ok focus wise apart from the odd shot which is user error :oops: :$
 
The thing about problems like focus issues is that bad news spreads a whole lot faster than good news. For every 20 people having problems, only 1 will bother to post saying theirs is fine. The rest will then start looking for problems with theirs and so the "issue" snowballs.
Saying that, I did send mine back for recalibration but I don't think the problem is as bad as made out. With mine, I could adjust the micro adjust to get rid of the issue but I wanted it spot on without using it. Nikon sorted I for free under warranty but a couple of my newer lenses needed micro adjust to get them right - that's what its there for:)

I had a D90 which I loved and only upgraded to the D7000 as I broke the D90 so was forced to buy a new camera. The D7000 is a much better camera to the D90 though - just wish I broke the D90 earlier:)
 
FWIW, when I was using a D90, I was only moderately tempted by a D7000 - an improvement, but not so great. The D7100, however, provided me with just enough of a nudge, particularly with the improved resolution - my focus is wildlife photography, so I’m routinely having to crop, even with a 1.4 or 1.7 TC. Now, I enjoy the equivalent of a 1.4 TC at all times, without any degradation of the optical path - if the D90 would’ve produced an image 1200 pixels wide, that’ll now be almost 1700 pixels wide. Of course, that’s only meaningful if the lens is sharp to begin with - a higher resolution sensor on a soft lens will only yield more accurately fuzzy edges. =:)

To be honest, I’d probably recommend going with the cheaper option, and if possible, putting the difference toward a lens you’ll enjoy, unless you’re feeling there are specific reasons to go higher in the lineup.
 
I use a D90 with an 18-200vr for walking around and taking it everywhere at all times and a D7000 with a Sigma 10-20 and 150-500 for particular uses. They are ,imo, both very good cameras with no focus issues apart those caused by my own inabilities and the stage I am at with DSLR photography. The D7000 is the best one, of course, but as someone said before I'd be tempted to buy a D90 and put the difference in price towards another lens.
 
I loved my D90, upgraded to the D7000 and was one of the unlucky ones who had bad foc us issues. Returned it to Nikon who fixed it. I don't know if it's because I loved my D90 so much but I just never liked the D7000. I was able to sell it with a lens and bought a D7100. Which I absolutely love. The new AF system was worth it alone. I know a few people who love their D7000 but it just wasn't for me.
 
Image quality from the Sony 16.2MP sensor with 14bit RAW

I can shoot "ISOless" with the D7000 due to low sensor read noise, which means I can shoot manual at base ISO (100) in low light conditions then bring back what appears to be a black image in DXO or LR.

Why on earth would you do that?
 
Thankyou all, I have been looking at other glass to buy along side the body, my budget is around £700.. so if any of you could suggest a nice combo, i would really appreciate it
 
Why on earth would you do that?

Can be higher quality with more DR doing it in post than increasing ISO in-camera, it's how modern digital movie cameras work, shooting at base ISO all the time and changing output exposure comp.

Basically for sensors with low read noise that do not use analogue gain the digital output from the sensor does not change with ISO sensitivity, what changing ISO sensitivity does is change the output curve, which in stills cameras is generally burnt into the output file (JPEG or RAW) complete with in-camera noise reduction, this can generally be done better in post tools.

It's not for everyday shooting, I use it mostly for lowish light situations like museums where I shoot manual with ISO 100 setting exposure to avoid clipping highlights. On import into LR I do batch Auto Tone, so I can actually see the image then finish selected images in DXO.

I come from a feature film background and got really into ISOless while testing shooting candle lit and low light scenes with digital movie cameras learning from some very skilled Cinematographers and VFX Supervisors.

Testing is important, don't try this on something important without testing first.

J
http://www.imdb.com/filmosearch?role=nm1211866&sort=year&explore=title_type
 
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Thankyou all, I have been looking at other glass to buy along side the body, my budget is around £700.. so if any of you could suggest a nice combo, i would really appreciate it

What limitations have you found shooting with the 35mm 1.8g?
 
What limitations have you found shooting with the 35mm 1.8g?

None to be fair, its fast and bright, and i really like it.. what other primes would go well with a d7000?
 
Can be higher quality with more DR doing it in post than increasing ISO in-camera, it's how modern digital movie cameras work, shooting at base ISO all the time and changing output exposure comp.

Basically for sensors with low read noise that do not use analogue gain the digital output from the sensor does not change with ISO sensitivity, what changing ISO sensitivity does is change the output curve, which in stills cameras is generally burnt into the output file (JPEG or RAW) complete with in-camera noise reduction, this can generally be done better in post tools.

It's not for everyday shooting, I use it mostly for lowish light situations like museums where I shoot manual with ISO 100 setting exposure to avoid clipping highlights. On import into LR I do batch Auto Tone, so I can actually see the image then finish selected images in DXO.

I come from a feature film background and got really into ISOless while testing shooting candle lit and low light scenes with digital movie cameras learning from some very skilled Cinematographers and VFX Supervisors.

Testing is important, don't try this on something important without testing first.

J
http://www.imdb.com/filmosearch?role=nm1211866&sort=year&explore=title_type


I must admit to being completely ignorant of what you were talking about there Jonathan - but thanks to Google :) I came across this guy's example which makes it perfectly clear, and also gives me a project to try lol - so cheers for that

http://blog.wildlifeinfocus.com/2012/09/15/iso-less-cameras/

Dave
 
longer.. i wouldnt mind something for more walk about wildlife photogtaphy..
 
The 18-200 Nikon is supposed to be really good so as a walk around lens it would be good. For wildlife you need to be looking at longer so you might get away with going up to 300 but longer would give you more options. The Sigma 150-500 is well thought of too and go for £350 ish second hand.

HTH.
 
longer.. i wouldnt mind something for more walk about wildlife photogtaphy..

If you want a walk about lens for a d7000 than I can't recommend the 70-300 vr enough. I've used this combination and it was great very sharp. Sometimes I wish I had never sold it. It's very sharp up to 200-250mm, a little softer towards 300mm but that's expected for a f5.6 zoom lens. For 300mm then a 300 f4 is the way to go but that's all of £700 budget alone for that lens.

I would also recommend the d7000 too, newer than the d90 and has a great sensor and dual control wheels. Yes there was some problems with early d7000's with back focusing but most only needed micro adjusting, with a few going back.lots of new cameras seem to have this problem since Internet forums have taken off in a big way, it's easier to find out the problems rather than find the people who are happy with it. I think it was one of those internet things where a couple of people had a problem then more looked for it, and even it didn't affect their camera they thought it did. In a way, a bit of a snow ball effect.

I'm been looking through old images from 2013 and came across a couple that stunned me with how sharp they were with the d7000. You won't regret getting a d7000, it will also leave a bit for good glass too.

Taken with a d7000 and 300 f4 cropped.


Black Kite Close Up
by Rob'81, on Flickr
 
Can be higher quality with more DR doing it in post than increasing ISO in-camera, it's how modern digital movie cameras work, shooting at base ISO all the time and changing output exposure comp.

Basically for sensors with low read noise that do not use analogue gain the digital output from the sensor does not change with ISO sensitivity, what changing ISO sensitivity does is change the output curve, which in stills cameras is generally burnt into the output file (JPEG or RAW) complete with in-camera noise reduction, this can generally be done better in post tools.

It's not for everyday shooting, I use it mostly for lowish light situations like museums where I shoot manual with ISO 100 setting exposure to avoid clipping highlights. On import into LR I do batch Auto Tone, so I can actually see the image then finish selected images in DXO.

I come from a feature film background and got really into ISOless while testing shooting candle lit and low light scenes with digital movie cameras learning from some very skilled Cinematographers and VFX Supervisors.

Testing is important, don't try this on something important without testing first.

J
http://www.imdb.com/filmosearch?role=nm1211866&sort=year&explore=title_type


Thanks for that, every day's a school day :)
 
Another vote for the D7000, love mine to bits. I have occasional use of my dads D90 when I need 2 bodies and although it is a good camera the D7000 is improved in every way.
Just depends how much you want to spend. I use a Nikon 17-55mm f2.8 on mine most of the time and it's excellent, sharp and built to last. The issue is that you are likely to struggle with £700
I also use a Nikon 50mm f1.4 on mine and that is also excellent if you can live without the flexibility of a zoom.
You can get them for not much over £200 used and combine that with a £400 D7000 you will struggle to get sharper images for that budget.
 
I'd buy a d90 and a tamron 17-50 for just over 410 and spend the remaining money on an 85f1.8g :naughty:

S
 
I had the first chance to use my d7000 today and it's pretty damn good - places where I would've had to bump the ISO with my d3100 have enabled me to use lower ISO with the d7000. Am slowly getting used to all of the buttons which will come in time.

I think in a few weeks when I'm used to it, I'll be more at ease with it and therefore happier.
 
On the wildlife lens front, I’d probably go as above - the Sigma 150-500mm seems quite well-regarded, and would likely fit into the budget without persuasive use of a shoehorn. If you were looking a step up, in both quality and price, there’s no question the Nikkor 300mm f/4D AF-S is fantastically sharp, but you probably won’t find the AF-S version for less than £600 used. (There is also its predecessor, which apparently is slower in focusing, but similarly high quality optics; I recall that’s occasionally available much cheaper)

As for other lenses: you might consider a Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6. The field of view is quite astounding, and it’ll focus fairly close up, making for new compositional possibilities, whether you’re shooting an excellent beer in a cozy pub, or a stunning vista beneath a glowing sky. And then there’s the previous (ie much cheaper!) version of the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 - admittedly rather soft wide open, but still, f/1.4! Again, that wide aperture starts making new possibilities available, with such thin DoF. Each are, as I recall, somewhere around the £200-240 mark, used.

Another option, if you’re at all interested in macro photography, is a set of extension tubes. What the new minimum focus distance will be depends on the lens’s internal design, but it’ll be short. :) Admittedly, it does feel a bit odd wielding a Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 with the front element about an inch from the subject.. more portable is the 30mm, which I used with the 6mm tube for this photo of frost on a leaf, a couple weeks back.

For the body, probably a D90 - MPB, for example, is showing D90s for around £280, versus D7000s for around £440. A D90 plus a 150-500mm would fit, or both the above.
 
I'm thinking about selling my d90 and 18 105 lens with a few filters. I can't use the classifieds section yet as I'm new. Inbox me for details if.....
 
I went for the d7000, i love it.. getting used to the positioning of the buttons, but its fab so far! thankyou for all your help..

I will still be on the look out for a nice lens, i will have a look at the 150-500mm an the others you have all suggeste, thankyou..
 
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