Favourite film and developer combo

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Mart
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Just wondering what combination of film and developer people prefer.

I'm guessing that there will me a massive range, and everyone will have opinions, but it might spark some good conversation.

I've always had a soft spot for Adox CHS film, and the fairly new CHSII does not disappoint (in large format) and with that film my go to developer is PMK Pyro, I just love the tones it gives.

example

robot-gothic1 by Marvin d martian100, on Flickr

Any thoughts?

Mart
 
No opinions or favourites?

Quite surprised.

Mart
 
I'm not sure I have a favourite combo but if I had to choose only one b&w film it would be Fuji Acros 100 and I really only dev at home with Rodinal/R09 because it's cheap and I'm to lazy and mean to bother testing other combo's. Although after my last experience stand developing I may have to rethink my approach.
 
So far I've only used Ilford LC29 for b&w and I'm very pleased with it. I will however be trying some more out next year.

I do like the tones that your shot above shows so I may give that a whirl at some point.(y)

Andy
 
So far... Rollei retro 400s with d76... I've not used it with any other developer though, so it may be a tad premature calling it a favourite combo.
 
My B & W film days were long ago, but I remember liking FP4 developed in Acutol (occasionally Microphen), and Tri X in D76. This was the old Tri X, not the current version. I really can't remember just how these compared to other film and developer combinations then, and I'm not familiar with what people are using now, but I did some experimenting and found that they gave good results.
 
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Mart, it is an interesting question. I shoot quite a number of different black and white films with my favourites being Tri-X, FP4, Rollei Retro 400S and believe it or or not Shanghai GP3! I do sometimes shoot other film stock but I prefer those on this list. I also shoot in a variety of 35mm and 120 cameras. The one thing I am consistent and singular about though is that I use Ilford Ilfotec LC29 to develop all my mono film.

In the past I have used D76, ID11, Aculux and HC110, all good developers. But after trying LC29 I found I got consistent and predictable results every time, even when I have been a bit fast and loose with timing and temperature.

So not a favourite film and Developer combo but a certainly a favourite developer!
 
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I keep discovering my favourite

Last Wednesday it was ilfosol and acros, then it was Delta and FD, but just lately Xtol and AGFA apx

I actually thought I was settled with ilfosol and anything.

Its quite daunting to deduce that you can't hope to try everything searching for your favourite.
 
Its quite daunting to deduce that you can't hope to try everything searching for your favourite.

Or liberating that you don't feel that you have to try.

Over the years I've used many films - some once only, which gives no real idea of how good they are, although I was taken with the Adox 20 ASA film. I've used FP3, HP3, Tri-X, Panatomic-X, Verichrome Pan, Fuji Acros, FP4, PanF. In developers, I started with a Johnson's MQ Pactum developer, and I've tried Microphen, Acutol, Acutol S, Unitol and Rodinal.

In terms of results, the first time I used Acutol and Pan F I was very impressed with the acutance effect; but overall I stayed with Unitol until that was discontinued. After that experience with a proprietary developer, I decided to only work with ones that I could make myself if necessary, and I've stuck with Rodinal since.

Ideally, I'd use PanF for everything, but Ilford don't make it in sheet film sizes. So, for 120 it's PanF in Rodinal, and in 5x4 FP4 in Rodinal. I like Acros in 5x4, but the hole in the corner always intrudes into my image area and requires touching up to remove so I stick with the easier FP4.

Hence my preferences are based on ease of use. The differences between developers are less apparent when you're not enlarging very much.
 
I've thought about this for a little while before posting. My first impression was to say TMax 100 for the film, which is my most-used film. I've been through a few different developers - Ilfosol 3, Fotospeed FD10, and Rodinal, and currently trying TMax developer with TMax fixer also (which gets the pink stain out of Tmax film very well). However, whilst I've had some good results from each of these developers, I've also had some developing disasters with each of them. So for consistency, my favourite film award goes to Ilford XP2 Super, which of course is developed in C41 chemicals with a standardised regime for time and temperature. I've never had a badly-developed roll of XP2 (mine have all been done with the Rollei Digibase C41 chemicals, but I don't think that matters).

XP2 is fine grain for an ISO400 film and gives good rich blacks when scanned or wet printed. Here are two in 35mm:

View attachment 26987

View attachment 26989

My conclusion is influenced by the fact that I also develop colour negative film at home, so I can mix both XP2 and colour negative film in the same batch in the same developing tank, same chemicals, which helps with economy and convenience.
 
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Just wondering what combination of film and developer people prefer.

Any thoughts?

To be perfectly honest, I don't think I'm a skilled enough photographer, developer, printer, or scanner to really exploit the differences between various films and developers. Unless there is tight control over these myriad variables, it's very difficult to attribute the look of any of these combinations to the films and developers themselves and not to something else that's been done along the way (e.g., exposure, light, scanning skills, etc.).

I've mostly only used Ilford Ilfotech LC29 (save for a bit of DD-X for faster films and for pushing) and I'd say that the only times it hasn't yielded good results with any film is probably when I have made mistakes or didn't know what I was doing.

I've used LC29 with Acros 100:





T-Max 400:





HP5:




The biggest differences that I see between these photographs doesn't relate directly to the inherent characteristics of the films or developers themselves, but instead to the situations in which I choose to use these films or developers (e.g., I tend to use HP5 when there's less or flat light; T-Max 400 when it's later in the afternoon, but still sunny; and Acros mid-day in the bright sun). The fact that I've scanned all of these myself, however, could have reduced any differences that exist on the film negatives themselves.

To be clear, I'm not saying that there aren't differences between these films and the various developers, there will be, but I'm simply not a good enough black and white photographer to understand and make use of those differences at the moment.

So for consistency, my favourite film award goes to Ilford XP2 Super, which of course is developed in C41 chemicals with a standardised regime for time and temperature. I've never had a badly-developed roll of XP2 (mine have all been done with the Rollei Digibase C41 chemicals, but I don't think that matters).

For guaranteed consistency and amazing versatility, I agree that C41 monochrome films are the way to go. I've mostly been using Fuji 400CN, which is very similar to XP2 (it's even made by Ilford as well), but it's 50p cheaper at Calumet down the street. I can shoot from ISO 50–400 on the same roll without a problem and development is standardised, because I'm now taken out of the equation. ;)





At any rate, for as much reading and agonising one might do regarding film choice and development, I still think that the human element is the most important factor in the final output.
 
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:agree:

That sums up my view perfectly. Except you produce far better images than me.

Until I'm more confident with my abilities, (that'll be around 2038) I think it's best to choose a developer and 2 or 3 films, really get to know them and how they interact with each other and myself.

I chose Kodak HC110 on the basis of reputation, convenience and economy - more or less in that order.
 
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Until recently my favourite combination was T-Max 400 with Patterson Acculux 3 as it gave a nice fine grain negative that was also quite sharp (plus the advantages of a liquid developer which was also twice as economical as Ilfosol 3!). Sadly all of the Patterson chemistry was discontinued a year ago and I really don't know how good a state my almost 4 year old bottle is in - at least it's lasted well!
 
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You could always try this. FX-39 was the designation for Aculux 3.
 
You could always try this. FX-39 was the designation for Aculux 3.

Thanks! I noticed in an email (from AG Photographic I think it was) the other week that Adox were bringing back FX-39, but confused it in my head for another FX series developer as I'd never actually heard of Acculux 3 being designated as FX-39 before.

I think I know what I may be picking up shortly...

EDIT: unfortunately my fears were confirmed and FX-39 and Aculux 3 are not the same - I was originally right in what I thought (see http://www.patersonphotographic.com/patersondarkroom.htm). FX-39 is designed to be optimised for use more with "modern" tabular grain films like T-Max etc whilst Aculux 3 was designed to be an all-rounder for cubic and tabular grain films.

I think I'll give the FX-39 a go anyway at some point.
 
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Some interesting replies. I have tried several developers over the years and have fixed on a couple of combinations that work for me (wet printing rather than scanning)

Adox films and PMK Pyro,
Ilford Delta and Xtol
Kodak T-Max and HC110.

Some of these are not interchangeable for me, Delta in PMK does not give good results.

I tend to stick to these films now, as long as I can still get them.

Mart
 
I've only returned to film, and then home developed for the past two years, although I have used up a lot of film in that time. I have tried some C-41 developing, but really didn't like it, so most of it has been true b/w. I do like the challenge of shooting to a low budget, and I'm not trying to create fine art, so my choice of films might horrify some here. I shoot a lot of "on the hoof" photography, so speed is important, and I favour ISO 400, except on particularly bright days.

As for developers, I've so far only tried three - mainly FirstCall R09 (one shot Rodinal clone), and Ilford ID11, which I mix in five litre measures as a stock. I once tried a litre of Ilford Microphen.

Favourite films/developer combos for my lowly photography:

  • Ilford HP5+ developed 1:3 with ID11. I don't know why some people run down HP5 - maybe their needs are finer.
  • Foma Fomapan 100/200/400 with ID11 or R09. I have had a problem with the Creative 200 and R09.
  • FirstCall / Rollei 400S with R09

As mentioned above, I often dilute my ID11 stock to 1:3 water. It extends process time, but meets my low budget requirements wonderfully.

14114150973_a9af795214_c.jpg


Ilford HP5+ developed in ID11 through a Bronica/Zenzanon 150mm f/4 PS.
 
Favourite films/developer combos for my lowly photography:
  • FirstCall / Rollei 400S with R09

I have purchased the Firstcall R09 "pouches" in the past which are marketed on the basis that they are a "clean" solution and your developer will never expire through contact with the air .. however I found that the spout actually leaked developer all over the box in which my developing bits and bobs were stored. I then started storing it inside a plastic bag and the bag would regularly have leaked developer inside. So I would use Rodinal again but not the Firstcall pouches.
 
I have purchased the Firstcall R09 "pouches" in the past which are marketed on the basis that they are a "clean" solution and your developer will never expire through contact with the air .. however I found that the spout actually leaked developer all over the box in which my developing bits and bobs were stored. I then started storing it inside a plastic bag and the bag would regularly have leaked developer inside. So I would use Rodinal again but not the Firstcall pouches.

Yeah I stopped with the pouches pretty quick too, they do sell a 500ml bottle of r09 in regular plastic that's lasting me fine.
 
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