my hit rate is around 1/5 to 1/10 but I used to take about 25 if not more to get a slightly better one.
I don't keep count, but I just looked at three sessions and I kept around one in ten for those. Some days are much worse. I get very high failure rates for some scenes, including ones where none of the shots are worth keeping. It depends on various things - the size of the subject, whether it is moving, whether what it is on is fixed or can move in the breeze, how much breeze there is, whether the subject is in an easy or difficult to get at position, the ambient light, the shininess of the subject and more.
Everyone has different set-up and different way to get the focus, .... so just try what we have done then you will find a way that suits you the most.
Good advice.
Macro gets harder as you increase the magnification.
I would suggest using 1 tube first and practice on that to get the technique.
More good advice.
I'm slightly different than others cause I do both manual focus ring adjustments and back and forth rocking.
I'm different again. Today I used autofocus some of the time, rocking focus most of the time, and focus ring adjustment some of the time. Which I use depends on the circumstances of the shot - and my mood
.
I never touch liveview I just don't like it so always through viewfinder. Plus the focus box is just way too big to get focus on a bugs eye.
Another difference. I always use live view, and almost never use the viewfinder.
You will get your eye in eventually it's just about training it muscles memory and all.
Very true.
Practice on larger subjects but unfortunately your live subject matter season is coming to a close, won't be much around soon.
I often suggest that in the early stages people start with objects that don't move at all - it doesn't really matter what, for example household items, little stones/bits of grit, fallen leaves or whatever from the garden. This reduces the number of variables you have to cope with while you experiment with various techniques and start developing muscle memory.
As to tripods, I use one almost all the time. I use a rather strange tripod, but some of the techniques I use can be used, some of the time, with a normal tripod. I occasionally us the tripod normally, but most of the time I use it like some other people use a pole, stick or monopod to provide some support and stability, helping to damp down hand-shake vibrations, while still allowing flexibility. What you can't do most of the time is line up a shot on a tripod and then use the self timer. You need very still air and a stationary subject for that.