First "studio" shots

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I got myself a backdrop support with a couple of cotton backdrops along with two light stands and another flash which I needed anyway, it was either the Nikon SB800 or a couple of studio flashes and at this point in time the Nikon would get more use.

First observation, it's not easy! :( With the limited equipment I set up the flash guns at about 45* using the SB800 in wireless mode to fire the SB600, I had one flash fitted with the Gary Fong Lightsphere and the other with a Stofen Omnibounce. With the white background I was aiming to achieve a high key effect but unfortunately I didn't manage it, all the creases and folds were visible and it took considerable manipulation in Photoshop to get close to the effect I was after and unfortunately this is visible in the photos. First question, how do I get the high key effect for the background, any hints, tips or tricks?

_CBG0030-02.jpg


_CBG0024-02.jpg


I then tried the black background, again with two guns, both of them quite close to the subjects and again with the Lightsphere and Stofen. This time the shots were under exposing quite considerably even though the EV was well up on both guns. Like before this required quite a bit of work in PS which has unfortunately introduced some noise. :bang:

Boys023-02.jpg


I suppose my final question for now is whether I need dedicated studio lighting or can I adapt my technique with my current equipment to give me reasonable results, I'm sure I must be able to. :thinking:
 
If you are going to be doing studio stuff in a serious way you are going to need some dedicated studio lighting im afraid, the high key effect for the white background that you were talking about is done by lighting the background seperatly to the subject and around 1 and half to 2 stops more on exposure effectively bleaching out the white background and any folds in it.
 
love theone of the boys....I don't know about studio lights or stuff so I can't really comment other than tell you what I thinks looks good and what doesn't but I reckon you know anyway ;)
 
Don't forget as well that dedicated studio flash is gonna be more versatile - with the umbrella/softbox fittings you can get, etc. And don't forget, even a 150w Interfit Stellar is gonna be more powerful than an SB800 or 600.

Might be an idea to get hold of a 2nd hand flash meter as well.

FWIW, I love the hi-key pics of the mutt, and the shot of the boys is good as well!
 
In the first instance you need to meter very accurately for the background, then separately for the skin tones. Once you have an accurate reading for both, then you can set the amount of exposure compensation on both flash guns to achieve the effect you want. Obviously, it's much easier to take these readings with continuous studio lighting, and a hand held spot meter makes life a lot easier.

With two flash guns a flash meter is going to help a lot, but you still have to interpret the results of a flash meter reading and adjust exposure for the actual tones you're photographing. As you say... it isn't easy.

The camera and flashes need to be in Manual Mode as whatever metering method you have selected in the camera (In any other mode) is likely to give you an erroneous starting point with your basic exposure readings.

It sounds to me like a good investment for you at this stage would be a good 1 degree spot meter and most of those do flash readings too. :)
 
Thanks CT, I appreciate the response. Would you recommend continous lighting as opposed to studio flash and if so, are there any drawbacks to using this?
 
It's a long time since I did any mate tbh, but I'd definitely recommend a continuous studio set up if you're going to be doing a lot of this sort of work. The only drawbacks I can think of are they tend to generate a lot of heat (or used to) so it can get a bit uncomfortable for sitters, and if a bulb goes at the wrong time you're fubar'd unless you have spares.

Dazzajl does a lot of studio work and will no doubt comment if he sees this.

Don't forget studio lighting isn't an exact science and the pros using film will take numerous polaroid exposures to check on the set up before they start commiting to film. With digital of course you can do the test exposures first, which gives you a huge advantage. :)
 
I still want one of these. This may not be the cheapest price....

CLICK
 
Yikes! :eek:

I've been looking at this lighting kit which will give me four light sources including my two flash guns.
 
I have a single EX150 head and haven't had any problems with it. After reading the reviews, they all said it offered more bang-for-the-buck than other kits. I can't comment on any other make cos I haven't used any others.

But for less than the cost of a single SB800, you probably can't go too far wrong as far as the risk is concerned. Then develop your setup if you take to it (y)
 
I had a friend ask me to take portraits of her 2 children the other day when she saw my photo of my son with his guitar...(high key B&W)

Ive been wondering what to put behind... or what I should buy... so when you posted this thread I was very interested how it would go for you.

I gave it a quick shot today just to see what would happen if I just used a large white linen tablecloth, even though it has ivy leaves embroidered in the weave.

I just sat the dog in front of a chair and draped the cloth over the chair.
Sigma DG500 super flash bounced off the ceiling and thats all.
Nothin done in the way of cloning the background...couldnt see the ivy leaves or creases as I overexposed the white.

I am quite encouraged...I think I could do the children with a little bit of work...perhaps a reflector underneath the chin there.....do you agree?

Jedmodelling.jpg
 
That's a lovely shot Janice (as was the one of your son) but it has really depressed me!!!
 
Awww...I'm sorry :crying: It was supposed to make you think....well if that old housewife can manage it...then so can I !! ;)

I had the camera on manual 1/200 (flash synch) and F5.6 I think.
The flash was on ETTL automatic.
Take a few test shots to get the white cloth a bit blown out and all the detail will be lost.(which is what you want in this instance!)

Im sure Im not doing it how Im supposed to...as everyone else uses lights and brollies and all sorts....but it seems ok for me.

Perhaps once Ive done a few portraits I will have enough earnings for those things.

Keep at it and dont give up......take loads of shots till you get it right....or your Border Terrier dies of boredom!! :D
 
pros using film will take numerous polaroid exposures to check on the set up before they start commiting to film
Click to expand...

Pah, never shot a polaroid in the studio :LOL:
Although with a digi set up now I never use a light meter anymore, which was a huge, lenghty and vital part of setting up a shoot on film.

The trick to getting hold of studio lighting is to do a little reading on what other people do and then experiment untill you find your own groove. Those starter type kits of a couple of flash heads with softbox and brolley are a great place to start but you will almost always be limited to shooting with your lenses wide open to get enough light on the chip. As you increase the power of the heads you start to get the luxury of choosing the working aperture best suited to the job. You can get great results with a coulple of 150 heads though and you will learn loads about lighting.
 
Hacker,

I am very much a novice photographer so please take this with a pinch of salt!

For me the pictures of the Border simply don't work...Maybe i am a traditionalist or perhaps just boring *lol* but I'd prefer the dog in an outside setting and shot in available light with perhaps just a reflector for fill..

I own a Border and it could be the older twin of that one, but I think they benifit from some careful stripping around the face to be at their best in a photo.IMHO the "Scruffy" look is cute in reality, but looks a little unkempt on a photo. If you go to a terrier show and look how they turn out the dogs, you will see what i mean. Unfortunately its not a skill i have, and my Border tends to be either "Scruffy" or "Bald" depending when I stripped him!

Regards,

Pete
 
Thanks Pete but Biggles was the only subject I had at the time and these were just practice shots. He is due to be stripped soon (not by me!) but it will soon grow back, our other Border isn't quite so scruffy but they are great dogs aren't they, excellent temperament and superb with the kids. Here's an outside shot just for you :p

Biggles004.jpg
 
Daft question maybe but could you not utilise a couple of 500w/250w halogen floodlights on stands? The kind you can buy for very little in your local diy place.
 
This is doing my head in! :bang: :bang: :bang: I've now got my two studio lights set up one with a softbox and the other with an umbrella. I've attached the sync chord to one (the other is a slave) but it won't fire them unless the pop-up flash is activated or there is a flashgun attached to the hotshoe which is defeating the whole point of the exercise.

I've managed a few shots at different placements (lights and subject) and whilst the subject is lit reasonably well lit, which it bloody should be with two studio lights and a SB800 + Lightsphere, it doesn't appear that much better than just with the Lightsphere.

Despondant of Hertfordshire.
 
Here are some test shots, maybe someone can explain it as my brain is fried. The studio lights were used in shots 2-5, both at full power and placed about 3-4 feet from the bear at about 45*, one with a softbox and the other with an umbrella.

This first shot is with the SB800 + Lightsphere mounted on the hotshoe, +2EV, no studio lights. Manual mode, 1/125th @ f/8

Teddy1.jpg



Shot 2 as above but with one studio light (softbox) at full power

Teddy2.jpg



Shot 3 as above but with both studio lights at full power

Teddy3.jpg



As shot #3 but with the shoe mounted flash turned down to +1EV, both studio lights at full power

Teddy4.jpg



As shot #4 but with the no EV on shoe mounted flash , both studio lights at full power

teddy5.jpg


These are all obviously straight from the camera with no adjustments. There does not appear to be much difference in the first three shots and when I start to turn down the shoe mounted flash the exposure drops.

I'm sure it is probably something really obvious and I'm stupidly not seeing it.

:bonk:
 
if both your heads are happy to fire as slaves then it sounds like either an issue with the camera (have you ever fired a flash from the cord socket before?) or sync lead probem. back in ye olde days you had to have a cord with the rigth polarity for the specific camera make but i'd like to hope we've moved on a bit now.

I think it's far more likely to be a dodgey lead than anything more serious and certainly worth tyring a different one.

as for getting the look you want, don't forget that the easiest way to adjust the level of the individual head is just to move in or out from the subject. double the distance quarters the light and all that.

good luck with it all. :eek:)
 
You are an absolute star. :clap: The kit came with two leads and one is obviously faulty as the second one works just fine.
 
Good to hear youre getting the gist of it, Hacker!
Still looks a bit dark on my monitor but loads better (y)
Havent had much chance to play with my lights yet (gawd! Ive had them a week now too) but, I think Ill be picking yours & Dazza's brains though because the quick go I did get, I had the opposite problem. (see below).
Need to get the teddy bear out myself this wekend I think.
keep posting the pics, and good luck!
deb-web.jpg
 
Starting to understand it all a bit better now, I've been moving the lights about and used one to mainly light the backdrop with the second on the subject.

This one is straight from the camera:

Biggles011.jpg
 
Awwww!!! Such a cute subject you have there, Hacker.
I really like that, I liked the earlier ones of him too, and Im sure Ive seen birthday cards just like that!
Im glad youre starting to get the gist of it .... then you can help me :LOL:
 
One thing I have noticed is that when I put the flashgun on top of the camera everything goes out the window, is this because of the TTL?
 
NO idea about any of this hacker but I'm glad everything is coming together for you.
 
Try setting your camera flash setting to Manual.

I trigger mine through a hotshoe to pc lead adaptor. (I intend to go wireless, but the EX150 voltage is only 4.7V, so should be safe to connect physically.)
 
Hacker,

Biggles really does look like a younger version of mine! If I can get him to stand still long enough tomorrow, I'll see if i can grab a pic...Even at 12, he still hates sitting still for something like photograph unless I resort to bribary!

As far as the lighting goes i am glad you're getting to grips with it...

I found these to sites on the web which may be of interest to you:

http://www.diyphotography.net/

&

http://strobist.blogspot.com/

Regards,

Pete
 
Hacker, you need to set the Flash to Manual, in any other mode the PreFlash will fire the Studio lights before the main exposure, I use a similar setup to you, I set my SB600 to 1/64 and point it away from my subject Mostley cos I dont want any light coming from the camera, where in Hertfordshire are you, I live in abbots Langley.
 
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