First time Motorsport Tips

bbg404

bbg404

Messages
1,302
Name
Ben
Edit My Images
Yes
Morning all I've been feeling quite confident with my camera lately and impressed with some of the results but it's only been landscapes, Astro and portraits but never attempted Motorsport! I've been to the North West 200 for the last 2 years with out a camera and sadly this year won't be going to Ireland but I will be going to Oliver's Mount this weekend with my camera so just looking for some tips and settings for Motorbikes!

I've had a quick read now I know there is no standard setting but what do people normally use iv read ISO400 f4.5 and a high shutter speed is a good starting point! But also what focus point do people use?

Thanks
 
Personally It depends what subject you are photographing, what speed the subject is travelling at, what lens your are using and getting the right shutter speed / aperture to match to create the right motion blur rather than VR OS IS etc. Correct camera settings and a smooth pan get you the shots.

Shutter speeds of 1/30 1/60 or even 1/125 aren't easy to get right especially for someone not practiced in taking pan's. And for someone who said panning is easy, why don't we see more pro's panning, because its not easy to get right and the hit rate can be variable. So apply the 1 over focal length rule explained below to get an idea of somewhere better to start.

A common rule of thumb for estimating how fast the exposure needs to be for a given focal length is the one over focal length rule. This states that for a 35 mm camera, the exposure time needs to be at least as fast as one over the focal length in seconds. In other words, when using a 200 mm focal length on a 35 mm camera, the exposure time needs to be at least 1/200 seconds-- otherwise blurring may be hard to avoid. Keep in mind that this rule is just for rough guidance; some may be able to hand hold a shot for much longer or shorter times than this rule estimates. So for users of digital cameras with cropped sensors, one needs to convert into a 35 mm equivalent focal length, eg 200*1.6 (crop) = 1/320 sec

That will help with setting up the right shutter settings to start with, you can get more adventurous later.

Now, Panning is a technique which requires mastering over time, its not something that you can instantly do and repeat. It require training you body to become familiar with the motion, thus it become almost automatic. What this will achieve is a smooth pan, something that is not easy to master.

Pick up the subject early, focus and pan with the subject, take them image when subject fills 2/3 of the frame, continue the pan after the shot, try and avoid stopping the pan or jerking at the edge will also aid in good results.

You are able to capture pans at slower shutter speeds, but to get everything right in the shot takes practice and a very smooth pan movement, taken at 1/100sec, but generally, I'm taking shots at 1/200 or 1/320 sec because of the speed of the bikes and slightly slower for cars....

1/100 sec
IMG_9314copy1.jpg


1/320 sec
IMG_9025copy1.jpg


or even 1/640 sec, but still generate motion blur
IMG_0603copy1.jpg


300mm f2.8 + 2x TC @ 1/800 sec
IMG_5729copy1.jpg


Feet position is important to give you a base from which to pan you body, as describe above, you then need to pick the action up early, panning with the on coming bike/car, then when it fills 2/3 screen start to take your 2 -3 images, recompose and take the next shots, remembering to continue the motion after taking the shots, that's also very important.......

Fire single shots not a burst, bursts are a waste of time for a plain old panning shot. Yes you might miss the moment when Elvis and ET climb out the sun roof and roof surf around the track to the sound of the Beach Boys, but... Concentrate on getting your timing right.

Don't shoot into the sun. (well you can, but remember that you'll lose detail in your shot because you're fighting with the light, not working with it) That amazing corner you (and everyone else with a camera) has discovered where the cars/bikes come inches away from your face is worthless if you are shooting into the sun. Try to work out if/when the sun will have moved off and come back then.

If it is a bright sunny day, consider using a 1 or 2 stop ND filter to get the shutter speed down. Not a problem normally at 1/250th, but as you slow it down you will have problems.

Slow(ish) pans don't work if the vehicle is not on smooth ground. Its generally rubbish for non-tarmac racing as the bumps blur the subject.

Practice Lots.

Same can be applied to aircraft, wildlife etc, set your shutter speed for the lens and the speed of the subject.

IMG_8765copy1.jpg


IMG_3738copy1.jpg


So to sum up, start with a fast shutter speed in (shutter priority), let the camera set the aperture (increase the ISO if you're not happy), unless you want a head on shot then aperture priority. Then throughout the day as you gain confidence and your panning technique becomes smoother, reduce the shutter speed, but remember light is your friend, so the conditions on the day will effect your setup.

Peter
 
Last edited:
As you say, I would advise against any arbitrary settings as its very much dependant on what sort of shot you want to achieve.

Generally as a beginner, you want to use the fastest most accurate AF point available to you (which is invariably the center). Do not trust the camera to guess what you want to target, depending on your camera body you may also be able to employ point expansion which is good and spot which probably isn't so good (again depending on the shot you want).

Use servo mode so the lens is continuously refocusing on your subject, if you want to pan and get background blur, aim to start with a shutter speed of about 1/200 max and work down.
11876094115_8b004335fd_b.jpg

You will be binning a lot of shots, that's just part of learning. Bikes generally have a lot of movement going on so it becomes more difficult to get completely sharp shots with pans, unlike cars which are more forgiving. Its worth looking at locations were riders maintain a steady position i.e on straights or in long constant radius turns... into braking zones or during quick direction changes panning is very difficult as riders move a great deal in comparison to the bike.

That said, because of that movement and the exposed riders, a feeling of speed can still be captured at higher shutter speeds (1/500+) and allows you to get really sharp images.
12926635704_b0ab4ceb21_b.jpg


As for ISO get as close to base as possible, only raise it if you need a faster SS and light isn't on your side.
Aperture choice depends on the effect you want, whether you are shooting through wire etc. If you know your camera you will be familiar with DOF results etc... i.e pack shots may require narrower apertures, if you want to throw the background out then the wider the better, this depends on a number of other factors like distance to subject, light available, shooting position etc.
A monopod is helpful
Bikes tend to look better from the inside of turns so they lean towards you.
Get as low as you can (generally in terms of position).
Be aware of the backgrounds in your shots.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top