First time use with ND Filter (Help)

Mani Gill

Mani Gill

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Mani
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Hi, I had posted this on a different thread, but I was advised to post it here, this is my very first attempt with a ND filter and a tripod. I did not have a remote shutter, so I used timer on the camera. I was not concerned with composition, I just wanted to test out the filter.
I would like to say that I was not pleased with my first attempt, I would have liked to have some of the vibrant colours as I have seen in some pictures posted by others on this forum using this filter.
The time of day that I had taken these pictures was at 8pm, just before sunset.

The filter I was using was a b&w 10 stop mrc, with a Canon 24-105 L lens on a Canon 550d.

The first picture is a normal exposure.

Please advise me where I have gone wrong. I think there may be many, any advice is appreciated.


1
Long_Exposure_ND-1.jpg


2
Long_Exposure_ND-2.jpg


3
Long_Exposure_ND-4.jpg


Thank you very much.
 
Really like picture #2 the water looks great, and the reflection on the puddle really makes it!
 
Thanks Matthew, Dan yeah, I would have liked to have the effect of the clouds moving, so I guess I could have left the shutter open for a little longer, I'm not happy with the tree line exposure, not sure how I can improve it.
 
might be based on the metering....you will never get it both spot on unless you have a N-grad filter.

What metering did you have the camera set too?

I would agree a longer exposure time for the clouds to get that whispery affect.

Dan.
 
I just came across this which might be something to try...

"spot meter on the brightest object and set to +2 stops to prevent it from blowing out"

Not saying it will work but might be worth a try.
 
I think your right Dan, looking at the camera settings I may have left it on spot metering. I think I should have used evaluative, I was so concerned about the ND filter I totally forgot about changing the meter set up. That is another thing I am getting used to.

Thank you for the advice Dan. I will try again and this time leave it open for a little longer. Do you think it would help if I added a polariser in front of the filter?
 
Danzaroonie said:
I just came across this which might be something to try...

"spot meter on the brightest object and set to +2 stops to prevent it from blowing out"

Not saying it will work but might be worth a try.
Click to expand...

Dan saw this after I posted, cheers I will try that when I'm out next. I don't think I can afford another filter. :(

Thanks for your help.
 
One of the issues you have is the white balance needs fixing. I have the same filter and the colour cast is just like yours. You could shoot a grey card or if RAW, just fix in post. You will find all images with that filter will show that cast.

Regards
Steve
 
stevebuk said:
One of the issues you have is the white balance needs fixing. I have the same filter and the colour cast is just like yours. You could shoot a grey card or if RAW, just fix in post. You will find all images with that filter will show that cast.

Regards
Steve
Click to expand...

Hi Steve, thank you for that, I do shoot in raw, so will have a look at editing the white balance in PP. What do you do? Grey card or shoot in raw? Also do you use a CPL with the 10 stop filter?

Thanks
 
In a scene like that you would need to use a grad filer as well. I always tend to set up and take an image first without the 10 stopper and check the histogram. That way I can get the exposure right - if you are doing an exposure lasting in minutes one stop difference can be significant. The B&W tends to underexpose and I've found that adding 25% works best. In other words 1/4 sec = 4 minutes + 25% = 5 minutes. You'll only get colour if theres a bit in there to start with. Slightly under exposing at dawn and dusk can give you some great results but I always check on the wind direction as well.
 
Eljay said:
In a scene like that you would need to use a grad filer as well. I always tend to set up and take an image first without the 10 stopper and check the histogram. That way I can get the exposure right - if you are doing an exposure lasting in minutes one stop difference can be significant. The B&W tends to underexpose and I've found that adding 25% works best. In other words 1/4 sec = 4 minutes + 25% = 5 minutes. You'll only get colour if theres a bit in there to start with. Slightly under exposing at dawn and dusk can give you some great results but I always check on the wind direction as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks Eljay, do you take a picture in AV or Manual and check what the shutter speed is and then change according to that?

I'll have to keep trying and experimenting until I get it right.

Would you add a grad to the B&W, would a CPL be any good?

Cheers again for your help.
 
Firstly, this scene was probably a bad scene to try out a ND filter, too much shadow detail.

Second, I hope you switch off your IS when shooting.

Third you don't need a polariser, when using a 10 stopper a polariser adds nothing (except restricting even more light)

Fourth , you don't need a grad, if you need to balance the light between sky and ground, use what I call a hand grad, gently wave your hand in front of the lens roughly along the horizon (or where the darker part of the grad would be), it's just as effective on these ultra long exposures, and of course, it costs nowt :)

Fifth, bracket your shots, if your reading says 90 sec @ f16, then shoot at that and also 120sec @f16, 60sec @f16, you soon get a feel to what works, exposure wise.

You are getting there, don't despair, keep shooting, and keep asking questions.
 
I'd agree with Les in that you can use different methods, even a cloth slowly raised over the lens to introduce some graduation. The soft grads work for me on the more rugged local landscape so thats what I use. Experimentation is the name of the game.

I wouldn't bother with a CPL unless I was actually trying to lengthen the exposure even more - it can add some quite strange colours. Most of my long exposures tend to be in the direction of the sun so not really much point in using one for its polarising qualities.

I tend to shoot between about f8 and f13 trying to stay within the strengths of the lens and also looking to get the length of exposure I am after. I use bulb for the exposure once I've decided on all the other factors and use a remote control. The Pentax lets a bit of light in through the viewfinder so I use blutac on it. Easier than the cover to put on.
 
Thank you so much Les and Eljay and also everyone else for their advice. I have a course up North in June through work, I will be pretty much on my own so I will take my trusted camera and use my spare time to put all this advice to practice, I will post pictures once it is all done.

Cheers again.
 
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