M40 Water Tower - help with setting please :)

sturisoma

sturisoma

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a lil bump - any thoughts on my settings? Some of them have high ISO because I forgot to check it (d'oh) and I have the AV selected. What could I do to get more light? F wouldn't go down any further. Is this just the limitations of my lens? any way to compensate for it other than higher ISO?

I prefer to get the photo right rather than pp it later - for me, pp is strictly for fun
 
Personally I think the light isnt great (which is obv not your fault), so what i would be tempted with doing is to take a long exposure using an ND10 filter (if you have one) to hopefully blur the clouds and add a bit more to the picture. Also looks a bit dark so the exposure needs to be raised a bit
 
Snap_Happy said:
You could take off the -1/2 exposure bias if you want the shot lighter...

You have a very high shutter speed as well.
Click to expand...

I don't know how to do this - but I will read some more of the book/manual that was supplied
 
pwynn-mackenzie said:
Personally I think the light isnt great (which is obv not your fault), so what i would be tempted with doing is to take a long exposure using an ND10 filter (if you have one) to hopefully blur the clouds and add a bit more to the picture. Also looks a bit dark so the exposure needs to be raised a bit
Click to expand...

I don't have any filters, and I didn't have my tripod. Is there anything else I could have done? I tend to use the exposure meter thingy on the display and adjust the F stop until the indicator stops in the middle of the 'gauge' or slightly to the left of centre. Apart from the ISO I have no idea how to make the picture look lighter if the light is dull
 
I knew a traffic cop for TV Police based one junction down in Bicester, when we passed this tower one time I asked him what it was and not only did he not know, he said he'd never noticed it before.

To capture more light at the scene it's time to get to know your camera better, either using it in manual or learning a little bit about exposure metering. It's not as daunting as it sounds and will help you improve.

Your second shot looks less accurate in terms of colour- the bricks are pretty yellow iirc but don't look it here. A starting point to correct this would be to adjust the colour temperature in PP software. (you can also use the exposure slider to make the first shot lighter)
 
thanks Andrew :)

I don't think the bricks are yellow, they just look yellow from a distance. They are local stone with concrete around the top. Having said that, I always need to up the colour temperature in PP, nearly all my pics look dull. Is this something specifically I'm doing wrong? Or just the available ambient light? :)
 
I would love to try RAW but I need to get my notebook up to scratch first.
 
sturisoma said:
thanks Andrew :)

I don't think the bricks are yellow, they just look yellow from a distance. They are local stone with concrete around the top. Having said that, I always need to up the colour temperature in PP, nearly all my pics look dull. Is this something specifically I'm doing wrong? Or just the available ambient light? :)
Click to expand...

My D300 is the other way, I often find myself having to cool down frames, particularly under artificial lighting.

So it could be a camera characteristic or it might be that your WB is accidentally set to cool down a bit, even if it's on Auto WB. On my old D80 I can dial in slight increments of warmth or cold a bit like adding +/- EV to your metering. Worth going through all your WB settings just to rule that out.
 
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