My 2nd Attempt At Sunday Footy.

snoop69

snoop69

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Name
Paul
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Yes
Popped down to Elms Vale,Dover this morning a grabbed a few seeing
as the sun was shining.

Still very cold (one match canx due to a frozen pitch) but the rain
stayed away.

Anyway,are these anygood?
No major tweaks,just cropped & tones adjusted slightly.

1.
20081207-20081207-IMG_7499Large.jpg

2.
20081207-20081207-IMG_7493Large.jpg

3.
20081207-20081207-IMG_7492Large.jpg

4.
20081207-20081207-IMG_7485Large.jpg

5.
20081207-20081207-IMG_7450Large.jpg

6.
20081207-20081207-IMG_7384Large.jpg
 
nice shots, but may i say that they could do with some more cropping and adjustments. well done
 
:agree: could also do with longer lens. (y)
 
Pretty much the same as some park football shots I took, I don't think they work without the stadium and 50,000 people.
 
Quite a few things need working on here you need to either crop tighter or get in much closer with the original shot,(What lenses do you have) secondly they are overexposed and that has washed out not just the kit but also the players faces and thirdly they need a bit more sharpening.
There are however some very good football photographers on here and I am sure you will learn a lot from them.
 
spencer said:
Not bad shots, try going in closer & keeping both eyes open as you follow the action.
You could also try the AV setting & trying about f4?

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Thank you - i will pop down next Sunday for more practice & try your
settings (y)

KIPAX said:
Crop in... a wide angle shot like yours is OK now and then but you need to zoom into the action..
Heres a couple of recent sunday morning footy i did
Click to expand...

Thanks for the examples - should point me in the right direction :)

CaptainPenguin said:
Quite a few things need working on here you need to either crop tighter or get in much closer with the original shot,(What lenses do you have) secondly they are overexposed and that has washed out not just the kit but also the players faces and thirdly they need a bit more sharpening.
Click to expand...

I was using a Canon Ef55-200mm.

I have had a little play with a few pics - hopefully these are an improvement
over the originals.

1.
20081207-20081207-crop2.jpg


2.
20081207-20081207-crop1.jpg


3.
20081207-20081207-crop.jpg
 
Pretty good stuff, liking the crops more than the originals. :)

Have to agree with CaptainP about them being overexposed though.
 
The first one in the reposts is by far the best in my opinion. Taken from a low position so the action is coming at and over you. Works well. It is also at ISO 400 and 1/800 so shutter is fast enough to freeze the action.

The last one is at too low a shutter speed and there is motion blur at the extremities (hands and feet). You really need to up the ISO and open the aperture to get the shutter speeds for sport whenever possible.

Metering is always difficult when you have strong sunlight and hard shadows. All the above are over exposed and would have benefited from 2/3 to a stop of faster shutter.

To meter for daylight football I generally do the following:
Camera in Manual mode
Position yourself so the sun is behind you. Ensures subjects are not in shadow.
Open aperture to f4 or similar (depends on lens but f4 is a good starting point)
Meter in partial mode or centre weighted average
Aim camera at grass and meter off the grass ie. set shutter speed to centre meter
Adjust ISO if necessary to get 1/400 (absolute minimum) or better shutter speed
Recheck metering off grass every 10 minutes or so

The above will give you a good starting point and then adjust to taste.

Tape the zoom at the 200mm mark :) This forces you to compose and track within the camera rather than cropping afterwards. It also gives you (forces) tight crops when the action is close.

John
 
jpwone said:
Adjust ISO if necessary to get 1/400 (absolute minimum)
Click to expand...


IMHO you wouldnt be anywhere near 1/400 in daytime at f4 and say iso 400
 
cyclone said:
Pretty much the same as some park football shots I took, I don't think they work without the stadium and 50,000 people.
Click to expand...

Totally disagree. I shoot some academy football on training pitches for some pro clubs and they can look awesome with no crowd. The trick is to shoot lengthways on the pitch to throw backgrounds out, the pics tend to be more dynamic when the players are running towards you too. Look where the pro togs are at the next footy match you see on TV. Most will be gathered near one of the corner flags shooting down the pitch and into the penalty area from behind the goal line. The ones on the sidelines will be on defense or goal line duties.

KIPAX said:
IMHO you wouldnt be anywhere near 1/400 in daytime at f4 and say iso 400
Click to expand...

Agree, if your anywhere near 1/400 personally I think your too slow for football. I shoot 1/1250 min even under floodlights, anything lower and the keepers are few and far between. Shooting football is all about practice and then some more practice.. oh and spending thousands on huge pieces of glass :D
 
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KIPAX said:
IMHO you wouldnt be anywhere near 1/400 in daytime at f4 and say iso 400
Click to expand...

But you could be near it or slower at ISO 100 on an overcast day. That's why I said "Adjust ISO if necessary to get 1/400 (absolute minimum) or better shutter speed"

Perhaps I should have said

Adjust ISO as necessary to get 1/400 (absolute minimum) or faster shutter speed.
 
TheBionicDan said:
Agree, if your anywhere near 1/400 personally I think your too slow for football. I shoot 1/1250 min even under floodlights, anything lower and the keepers are few and far between. Shooting football is all about practice and then some more practice.. oh and spending thousands on huge pieces of glass :D
Click to expand...


1/400 isnt too slow for football but its not ideal..

How on earth can you get shutter speeds of 1/1250 under floodlights... I have never heard of such a thing!!!
 
jpwone said:
But you could be near it or slower at ISO 100 on an overcast day. That's why I said "Adjust ISO if necessary to get 1/400 (absolute minimum) or better shutter speed"

Perhaps I should have said

Adjust ISO as necessary to get 1/400 (absolute minimum) or faster shutter speed.
Click to expand...

I dont think I have ever used iso 100 .. didnt think anyone did for sports... I start at iso 400 as my base :)
 
same here JP and worse... did some college football lately and was iso 6400 and still 1/250 :(

I cant imagine floodlights giving you shutter speeds of 1/1250 ... Imagine the lights... you would melt :)
 
jpwone said:
In daylight I aim for the fastest I can reasonably get and if that means using ISO 400 in daylight then so be it.
Click to expand...


most canon cameras list iso 400 as a starting point when shooting sports.. did with my 10d and pretty sure also with 1dmkII ... canons with a sport mode (bless) are set at iso 400
 
Same here Kipax - I always check my default settings before going out and they are ISO 400, 1/640, f3.5, wb auto etc.

The reason for mentioning ISO 100 was looking at the EXIF of one of the images posted it was taken at ISO 100 and 1/160.

I managed 1/600 or thereabouts at Aldershot at ISO 1600 and remember thinking 'luxury' :)
 
Seriously no problem for the D3 :)

The last game I covered was at Ashton Gate (Bristol City) and never dropped the camera below 1250. As long as you shoot into the pitch rather than out to the sidelines I got spot on results that were published

_DSC4474.jpg


Check the metadata 1/1250 at 3200.

I realise that my advice does now sound like buy a D3 and you'll be alright but just wanted to show it was no problem.
 
I have done aldershot on a night match... I think I still had the 10d then.. I have met up with the shots photographer jo many times since.. at wembley and up here at droylsden for eg ... top bloke.. offered to lend me a top sports lens when i was stuck with mine being away.
 
Dan.. yeagh we always shoot into the pitch... My mkIII is as good a spec as your d3 .. I need to get to better grounds.. I got around 600 at wolves using the mkII

shutter speeds anything over 600 at a night match are just a dream really ... i just dont get to them grounds often enough :( even at iso 3200 i cant get past 320 at most places.... still get published though :)
 
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KIPAX said:
Dan.. yeagh we always shoot into the pitch...
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry not trying to teach you to suck eggs. :(

The quality of light does get better as you go up the leagues :D but even at the crappy grounds I'm able to shoot around the 1/1000 mark with the D3.
 
Can't disagree about the shots tog Kipax. He gave me a guided tour of the grounds and superb hospitality. Top bloke seems a fair description. If only we got the same at all grounds :)

TheBionicDan, that is a superb shot and great positioning and timing.

I just don't see too many Wessex League clubs putting in the same lights as Bristol City. Christchurch FC has probably the best lights in the league and ISO 3200, f2.8, 1/320 is normal there. There are a couple of others grounds that I don't bother shooting at all if it is a night match. At one recently were I was underexposed by about a stop at 1/200 and then a couple of lights failed. Really don't know why I bothered but did manage to get a few that just made the keeper bag. For us lower league photographers cleaner ISO 6400 is going to be the catalyst for getting shots at some of these grounds.

John
 
jp i love this 1dmkIII for the high iso.. 3200 on this is miles better than 1600 on the mkII and 6400 is usable for those ground i would normally feel like giving up on... it has faults in other areas but for high iso work its brilliant :)
 
jpwone said:
TheBionicDan, that is a superb shot and great positioning and timing.

I just don't see too many Wessex League clubs putting in the same lights as Bristol City. For us lower league photographers cleaner ISO 6400 is going to be the catalyst for getting shots at some of these grounds.

John
Click to expand...

Thanks John, Basso does tend to do that for the crowd though ;)

Yep even the D3 isn't brilliant at 6400 although I have got some decent results using a touch of noise ninja.
 
TheBionicDan said:
Seriously no problem for the D3 :)

The last game I covered was at Ashton Gate (Bristol City) and never dropped the camera below 1250. As long as you shoot into the pitch rather than out to the sidelines I got spot on results that were published

_DSC4474.jpg


Check the metadata 1/1250 at 3200.

I realise that my advice does now sound like buy a D3 and you'll be alright but just wanted to show it was no problem.
Click to expand...

I could have done with a D3 at Huddersfield town this past weekend:shake:, (i shoot with D2h's). I shot most of the 2nd half in manual at 1000/1600 iso & 400th(under by at least 2 stops) & had to pull them back in P&P!:(. Kind regards Graham.
 
D3's alround I think ;)

When I win the lottery on Friday I'll pop one in the post to you.

Seriously though it really is utterly fantastic when the light drops.
 
TheBionicDan said:
D3's alround I think ;)

When I win the lottery on Friday I'll pop one in the post to you.

Seriously though it really is utterly fantastic when the light drops.
Click to expand...

It looks like I'll have to start saving for a D3 then, cus my 350D is bloody awful above 400iso.:shake:

There is another football tog on here who also swears by Nikon, he's also from Brizzle!(y)


BTW the cropped images are much better, just need the exposure sorting out now.:clap:
Spence
 
Hi Pete

Do you shoot your sports in Raw? Have tried a couple of times for portfolio work but have never ended up using them as the D3 seems to do such a good job with its jpeg noise processing.

Agree that Raw is the way forward for everything else though. I do love the two card Raw/Jpeg feature of the D3 though.

This is turning into a D3 love-in isn't it :D
 
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