Nikon D750 & D780

Adam Wortman said:
Thanks. I take it you think the 24-120 is a better option that splitting it out with the 18-35 / 50 / 70-200?
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As a 'general' lens, (especially as an 'only' lens), I would go with the 24-120 every time ... for your scope of interest (mirrors mine) it would IMO be ideal, but I also have the 70-200, which is in a class of its own and for wildlife I also have the Tamron 150-600 and Sigma 300-800.
 
Anyone who manually selects their focal point might want to consider changing the focal points from 51 to 11. Much faster when you're on the fly..
 
UaeExile said:
Anyone who manually selects their focal point might want to consider changing the focal points from 51 to 11. Much faster when you're on the fly..
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I'm finding 51 plus Group Focus to be pretty quick. I prefer this over the Single Point. Or if you like to look at another way,Group is a Single Point +
 
twist said:
Seems Kai spent more time talking rubbish and trying to figure out the Nikon range (which is pretty straightforward) than actually testing the camera. Shame.

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Same old Kai, he does that for every camera he reviews :D
 
Blank_Canvas said:
I'm finding 51 plus Group Focus to be pretty quick. I prefer this over the Single Point. Or if you like to look at another way,Group is a Single Point +
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Actually nick, you might be able to help me with something.

How come in live view I can move the focus point anywhere I want, but can't do the same through the viewfinder?
 
UaeExile said:
Actually nick, you might be able to help me with something.

How come in live view I can move the focus point anywhere I want, but can't do the same through the viewfinder?
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You should be able to see this. I don't have my D750 with me but from memory you need to turn something on in the Custom Setting Menu, I think that's D Shooting/Display. I can't quite remember if mine was already set up or I activated it. I changed many of the default settings for my own preference. Once set up you can see all the focus points illuminated in the viewfinder and move the focus points around. Hope this helps in the short term.
 
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UaeExile said:
Actually nick, you might be able to help me with something.

How come in live view I can move the focus point anywhere I want, but can't do the same through the viewfinder?
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Isn't that because in live view, the mirror's up to expose the sensor so you lose phase detect AF which means the camera's falling back on contrast detect AF which is not restricted by where any AF sensors are located?

The likes of Fuji's X-T1 has phase detect AF sensors built into the imaging sensor which means you maintain phase detect during live view, but only in the central pay off the live view image. Go beyond that central area and the camera automatically reverts to contrast detect.
 
That's exactly right. LV isn't using the AF points, it's using the actual image to work out focus. It's ok, but MF is easy when you can zoom to 1:1 at the press of the Ok button.
 
Looks like I have a bit of a dilemma with my new D750 and lenses.....

Just received my last two lenses to complete my changeover from Canon. It appears the calibration of the body is out, all lenses front focus quite badly. The 35G & 85G are consistent, both need +15 which is quite extreme in my book. The 16-35 VR needs +5. So it appears the body may be out?

Now I've been here before with Sigma lenses and will never buy one of those again, all my Canon lenses over the years have been spot on. Obviously I can, and have, adjusted them, but really they shouldn't be that far out. Question is: would you send it all back?
 
Livin The Dream said:
Looks like I have a bit of a dilemma with my new D750 and lenses.....

Just received my last two lenses to complete my changeover from Canon. It appears the calibration of the body is out, all lenses front focus quite badly. The 35G & 85G are consistent, both need +15 which is quite extreme in my book. The 16-35 VR needs +5. So it appears the body may be out?

Now I've been here before with Sigma lenses and will never buy one of those again, all my Canon lenses over the years have been spot on. Obviously I can, and have, adjusted them, but really they shouldn't be that far out. Question is: would you send it all back?
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If mine was out 15 pts Id send it back for replacement. It does sound like a camera rather than lens issue. Did you repeat your testing, what method?
 
Livin The Dream said:
It appears the calibration of the body is out, all lenses front focus quite badly. The 35G & 85G are consistent, both need +15 which is quite extreme in my book. The 16-35 VR needs +5. So it appears the body may be out?
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I'm assuming you mean focus adjust. As it goes +- 20 I'd have said they were well within range, I don't think +15 is really an issue especially on a f/1.4 lens
 
boyfalldown said:
I'm assuming you mean focus adjust. As it goes +- 20 I'd have said they were well within range, I don't think +15 is really an issue especially on a f/1.4 lens
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It is within the micro adjustment range granted but it really shouldn't be that far out, which probably does answer my own question. I guess I wondered whether anyone else has ever been so unlucky.
 
Livin The Dream said:
It is within the micro adjustment range granted but it really shouldn't be that far out, which probably does answer my own question. I guess I wondered whether anyone else has ever been so unlucky.
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The thing is….. lets say your 35 and 85 are spot on and the body is out 15pts, what if you buy another lens and its 10 or 15pts out. You wouldnt be able to MA that lens within the 20 pt range.
 
Livin The Dream said:
It is within the micro adjustment range granted but it really shouldn't be that far out, which probably does answer my own question. I guess I wondered whether anyone else has ever been so unlucky.
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I disagree - I think its a perfectly acceptable reading. Consider you have two very highly engineered bits of kit calibrated separately. Micro adjust exists solely to make the very best of those bits of kit together. If you had an issue with adjust switched off I'd agree there is an issue, but falling well within tolerance I don't think you have.

Incidentally,my values (admittedly on a D800) range from +18 to -15 on 24/35/50/85/135 primes
 
boyfalldown said:
I disagree - I think its a perfectly acceptable reading. Consider you have two very highly engineered bits of kit calibrated separately. Micro adjust exists solely to make the very best of those bits of kit together. If you had an issue with adjust switched off I'd agree there is an issue, but falling well within tolerance I don't think you have.

Incidentally,my values (admittedly on a D800) range from +18 to -15 on 24/35/50/85/135 primes
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That's an interesting take on it Hugh. I've just not had any variation before with my Canon gear over the years, it's always been exemplary. As soon as I bought the body & 85G it was plain obvious to me that it was front focussing, so much so, that nothing was in focus. A couple of points either way wouldn't concern me but when my two primes are consistent it does make me sceptical.

PS. Your line up looks like my perfect setup, one day......
 
Blank_Canvas said:
You should be able to see this. I don't have my D750 with me but from memory you need to turn something on in the Custom Setting Menu, I think that's D Shooting/Display. I can't quite remember if mine was already set up or I activated it. I changed many of the default settings for my own preference. Once set up you can see all the focus points illuminated in the viewfinder and move the focus points around. Hope this helps in the short term.
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I should add this won't work as the same in Live View. Live View doesn't maximise the full potential of the 51 AF system.
 
dkh said:
Am I right in saying that the body doesn't front or back focus as such - it's the lenses?
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No, the body can be adjusted but it's a Nikon service job.
 
Blank_Canvas said:
I should add this won't work as the same in Live View. Live View doesn't maximise the full potential of the 51 AF system.
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Since live view is contrast detect AF only then it's not going to use any of the 51 phase detect AF points at all.
 
boyfalldown said:
Incidentally,my values (admittedly on a D800) range from +18 to -15 on 24/35/50/85/135 primes
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Out of interest Hugh, what 50 do you use, quite undecided as to which one yet. And, how do you get on with the 135. I loved my Canon 135 but the Nikon one seems to get mixed reviews.
 
Nikon d750 and 85mm 1.4G shot at 1.4

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gramps said:
@Adam Wortman - Check out the 24-120 f4 VR, it's a great walkabout lens and from your wide scope of interests would be a good option depending on available budget.
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I toyed with the idea of ordering my new D750 with this lens and selling my 50mm and 28mm primes but the reviews I read regarding truly dreadful barrel and pincushion distortion put me right off. One article I read did say you could compensate for the distortion in Photoshop by entering certain correction factors (which the article supplied) but who the hell wants to do that all the time. So, tempted as I was by the do-all lens at first, I have stuck by my primes.
 
ShinySideUp said:
I toyed with the idea of ordering my new D750 with this lens and selling my 50mm and 28mm primes but the reviews I read regarding truly dreadful barrel and pincushion distortion put me right off. One article I read did say you could compensate for the distortion in Photoshop by entering certain correction factors (which the article supplied) but who the hell wants to do that all the time. So, tempted as I was by the do-all lens at first, I have stuck by my primes.
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It is literally a matter of ticking a box. All lenses have an optimum lens profile, even the 28mm and 50mm benefit from this very simple process in PP.
 
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twist said:
The thing is….. lets say your 35 and 85 are spot on and the body is out 15pts, what if you buy another lens and its 10 or 15pts out. You wouldnt be able to MA that lens within the 20 pt range.
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You are absolutely correct. I suffered this with an early D800. I lived with the body being averagely -13 until I acquired a 20mm AF-D lens which was also back-focussing and taking the combined error well beyond -20 adjustment limit. Body and lens returned to Nikon who acknowledged warranty on the back-focussing body, but stated that the AF-D lens could not be adjusted. When body was returned, it was fine with the 20mm lens but front-focussing with everything else! I believe they adjusted the body to suit the back-focussing lens - As if I only had one lens! Back to Nikon again, without any lens, fixed properly and returned. I will say that Nikon were very responsive and both turned round in a few days although I'd have preferred only one repair. I was a bit miffed about the 20mm lens, but at least it fell within the -20 limit once the body was fixed.

So, I'd contact Nikon and get a warranty repair authorised. Probably quicker than returning to retailer.

Perhaps I should mention that I no longer have a D800 but am enjoying my new D750!
 
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Just thought I'd try the D750 under some truly low light conditions... The AF worked just about with only silhouettes against a dark background to work with. This is at ISO 12,800 with no noise reduction in post production. Cleans up quite nicely with a bit of noise reduction in Lightroom. Sigma 35mm, f/1.4, 1/25s.

Making sure monkey gets a good view by DigitalRelish, on Flickr
 
Blank_Canvas said:
It is literally a matter of ticking a box. All lenses have an optimum lens profile, even the 28mm and 50mm benefit from this very simple process in PP.
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I might also add that I do not have Photoshop as I try to avoid post-processing beyond dodging and burning and cropping. I try my very best to get the right image in the camera and don't have much time for fiddling afterward. Don't get me wrong, I like computers and use them all the time but PP is just not for me.
 
Blank_Canvas said:
It is literally a matter of ticking a box. All lenses have an optimum lens profile, even the 28mm and 50mm benefit from this very simple process in PP.
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Adobe Camera Raw - Just select "Lens corrections" and then tick the box "Enable Lens Profile Corrections". ADCR immediately recognises the lens and applies the relevant profile corrections. You can then select "Color" and tick the box to "Remove Chromatic Aberration" - Personally I haven't found that necessary with the 24-120 F4.

Lightroom - In the develop module, just follow a similar procedure to ADCR. "Lens Corrections" - "Profile" - "Enable Profile Corrections". Again removing chromatic aberration is an option. As even this does get tedious with every image, you can create a user preset with just lens correction and apply that to every imported image. The preset is not just for the one lens but will be applied for any recognised lens. I believe all Nikon, many Sigma and presumably others

LR%20Lens%20Corrections.jpg
LR%20Import%20Settings.jpg
 
ShinySideUp said:
I might also add that I do not have Photoshop as I try to avoid post-processing beyond dodging and burning and cropping. I try my very best to get the right image in the camera and don't have much time for fiddling afterward. Don't get me wrong, I like computers and use them all the time but PP is just not for me.
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Sorry - Postings crossed! It's difficult for me to appreciate life outside Lightroom and Photoshop. Lightroom in particular.
 
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