Oly Trip ?

The Trip is set up with 4 focus zones, depicted with the little icons on the lens barrel, ranging from "mountains" at infinity to "single head" at about 3 feet. There's a corresponding distance scale on the bottom of the lens, showing both feet and metres (on mine, anyway). I think the idea of zone focusing is that you select an appropriate position (zone) for the type of shooting you're doing, eg infinity for landscapes, maybe the "group" setting in the street, and let depth of field do the rest.

Please correct me if I'm wrong!

Thats the way I understand it anyway (y)

You also see the setting chosen in the wiewfinder, move your eye to the bottom of viewfinder and the little needle will be at the coresponding 'zone'
It does take a little getting used to, but it soon comes natch!
 
The Trip has two shutter speeds, 1/40th and 1/200th and each of those is limited to a set of apertures in auto mode.
Actually if you want to see how the Trip 35 auto mode works then check out this image of the program graph for it.
As you can see the red flag will pop up if the exposure is below EV8 or over EV17, if you mostly shoot inside then ISO400 is fine, outside i'd stick to 100 or 200.

Sorry, I'm trying really hard to understand this. I've been looking at the "Sunny 16 rule" for guidance (found this at http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/tips/054a_exposure_sunny_16.htm).

This is saying in bright sun (hard-edged shadows... I suspect it was a bit down from that) at f/16 I should use a shutter speed of the reciprocal of the ISO. So for the HP5 this should be 1/400; we only have 1/200, which is twice the light, so we need the next stop down from f/16, ie f/22, which the Trip has. So theoretically it looks as if it should be able to expose it properly (and the yellow filter must be worth a bit of light reduction, too).

Maybe the flag is warning that you're getting a bit close. Maybe the light meter isn't working properly. I guess I could try using the Pentax or my X10 as a comparison... Sent off the film today so I guess I'll see in a few days!
 
Sunny 16 is OK, but it's not the most accurate thing for British weather, your calculations are correct but unless you know what the current light level is for definite then it's going to be off anyway. The yellow filter won't do much, third of a stop at best.

Old selenium light meters like the one in the Trip aren't exactly known for their accuracy and they usually average the light of the whole photo rather than the brightest part.
So if you are at the limit of the exposure range which is EV 17 on the Trip (which comes to 1/250th @ f/22 on my light meter), and it sees the scene at EV 15 or 16 then it's going to over expose.
EV = Exposure Value, EV 16 is one stop dimmer than EV 17, 15 is one dimmer than 16 etc. That chart i linked to shows you how the Trip behaves in auto mode and the settings it chooses for the light conditions.

The exposure range of the Trip is pretty typical for a consumer camera, EV8 is 1/30th @ 2.8 which is basically a lit room in the day time (or with flash at night) to EV17 which is a bright summer day. I'd stick to ISO200 or 100 personally, it fits the Trip's range much nicer and gives you room for over/under exposure. If you prefer to use HP5 then find a stronger filter like Orange, a ND2 or polarizer to keep it in a better range.
 
Thanks Morinaka. I've stuck some FP4 in to see what happens there. Next to try will be Acros, I think, and then I'll try the other two C41 black and whites!
 
This was one of the first I took; seems to have worked quite well. This is the only shot with a suspicion of light leak (top left corner; not sure how well it will show up at this low resolution). It might be just flare.

...

I get the feeling that the Trip really needs a yellow filter for outdoors black and white use. I've seen a couple of UV filters on the interlubes, at or more than I paid for the camera, but I haven't seen any other kind with that filter size (43.5 mm). Any pointers to what to do better?

I got a light seal kit (only partial seals; big bit for by the door hinge, and some little bits for the channels near the hinge; I also put a bit in the channels near the door opening), and was amazed I could actually do it myself! Very satisfying. And what's more, when I'd done it the door was no longer floppy! Maybe that's a sign of dodgy seals? Anyway, no sign of light leak in the latest film (XP2):

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Hmm I've just finished a roll of XP2 through my Trip 35. I think when the little red flag pops up it means the wrong exposure, yes? (Too dark and the shutter won't fire, too light and it will over-expose, from memory.) I reckon I got the little red flag around half the time in this film, even using the 43.5mm yellow filter. Perhaps using ISO 400 film in a Trip in summer is not such a great idea?

Well the little red flag didn't mean disastrous over-exposure; some of these did need a bit of brightness pulled back and shadows lifted, but in practice it seems to have worked fine. As you can see, it wasn't your typical "sunny 16" day! I'm not sure quite what was happening, but I'm tempted to ignore it from now on!

14570010.jpg
 
I've just got my first lot of pics/negs & CD back and to be honest they are crap. The film was a Kodak ColorPlus 200. :puke:
 
I've just got my first lot of pics/negs & CD back and to be honest they are crap. The film was a Kodak ColorPlus 200. :puke:

Let's see some of the examples then.

And to be fair in my opinion Kodak ColorPlus is only any use for testing cameras, although combined with the Trip it does tend to produce a fairly authentic 70's look.
 
juancarlos66 said:
I've just got my first lot of pics/negs & CD back and to be honest they are crap. The film was a Kodak ColorPlus 200. :puke:

I've found that the best 'high street' films to use with the Trip are Superia 400 and XP2. Don't be put off this wonderful camera just yet!

Also, they could just be crappy scans.
 
Ok here goes...

7592259378_d79290f3d8_b.jpg

7592258548_02bd2b49c7_b.jpg


Looking at it now I kind of like it. There are a few others but with a similar theme. Maybe I will try again with a better film.
 
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Your scanned file is not that good, lots of things seem to have been applied which make it difficult to correct or adjust.
Who did you use for your processing?
 
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It was DS Colour Labs in Wilmslow, Manchester.
 
I've just got my 3rd film back through the Trip, this time FP4, and I'm worried the meter has packed up (or maybe the 1/200th speed isn't working?). Most were over-exposed, despite a generally cloudy-bright day and a yellow filter. I spotted the little red flag popping up a lot, which surprised me at the time (Sunny 16 suggests there it should easily expose correctly). I managed to pull a bit back in Aperture with the Highlights and Levels sliders, but there's an odd look to the result. This is one of the better ones, from above Salisbury Crags in Edinburgh...

000017.jpg
 
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